(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

6 years ago



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There are 5312 posts in this topic. You are on page 102 of 107.
#5051 4 months ago

hey guys i joined the club a few days ago.

i need help on my right free kick hole. it shots the ball right onto the top of the right slingshot, how can i adjust this? tried bending the metal plate above the hole but didnt do anything.

#5052 4 months ago
Quoted from throughfire:

hey guys i joined the club a few days ago.
i need help on my right free kick hole. it shots the ball right onto the top of the right slingshot, how can i adjust this? tried bending the metal plate above the hole but didnt do anything.

Prop the playfield up. From underneath the playfield push out the kicker arm all the way. Gently bend the arm from the top side of the playfield to one side or the other a tiny bit. Then test it and see if it’s how you like it.

#5053 4 months ago

Have not opened it up to take a look, but I am guessing ball spinning in the wrong direction on my machine is to desloder 2 wires and switch them? Any buddy have a pic?

#5054 4 months ago
Quoted from MotorCityMatt:

Have not opened it up to take a look, but I am guessing ball spinning in the wrong direction on my machine is to desloder 2 wires and switch them? Any buddy have a pic?

Yeah it’s that simple.

#5055 4 months ago

Without raising the play field, you can just check in the coil debug menu.
One item is called ball turn right.
If it turns left..just put red wire on black wire and vice versa

#5056 4 months ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Without raising the play field, you can just check in the coil debug menu.
One item is called ball turn right.
If it turns left..just put red wire on black wire and vice versa

Thanks, took longer for the soldering iron to heat up then it did to fix this. Ball spinning correctly now.

#5057 4 months ago

Well I finally got my WCS supposed HUO game. Looks really good and I’m already modded it with a pinduino kit. Game already had several mezel mods on it. Also changed to titan clear rubber while I had it apart

Pinduino kit is awesome but it is a bit challenging to install. You pretty much have to take the whole game apart. Many thanks to Eric as he was a big help

Also big help to chad and chuckwurt for WCS pics that helped me get the game back together after I lost my photos. Here is a pic to show off the game

3CC4221A-73E5-4291-8342-B4C30307E77C (resized).jpeg
#5058 4 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Well I finally got my WCS supposed HUO game. Looks really good and I’m already modded it with a pinduino kit. Game already had several mezel mods on it. Also changed to titan clear rubber while I had it apart
Pinduino kit is awesome but it is a bit challenging to install. You pretty much have to take the whole game apart. Many thanks to Eric as he was a big help
Also big help to chad and chuckwurt for WCS pics that helped me get the game back together after I lost my photos. Here is a pic to show off the game[quoted image]

That there looks like pure pinball porn to me... sweet looking!!

#5059 4 months ago

Here is a short video of the game in attract mode. Still processing so it may be a minute. The effects during the game are very cool and worth having

#5060 4 months ago

BTW anyone have recommendations on purple and red LEDs for the World Cup inserts & saucers (they aren't purple enough for me using white LEDs) and then the red rollovers actually look more orange than red with white LEDs.

Thinking comet purple passion LEDs for the inserts/saucers. Not sure on the reds.

#5061 4 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

BTW anyone have recommendations on purple and red LEDs for the World Cup inserts & saucers (they aren't purple enough for me using white LEDs) and then the red rollovers actually look more orange than red with white LEDs.
Thinking comet purple passion LEDs for the inserts/saucers. Not sure on the reds.

I replaced my purples with Comet and have been very happy.

#5062 4 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

BTW anyone have recommendations on purple and red LEDs for the World Cup inserts & saucers (they aren't purple enough for me using white LEDs) and then the red rollovers actually look more orange than red with white LEDs.
Thinking comet purple passion LEDs for the inserts/saucers. Not sure on the reds.

Purple passion and reds from comet will have what you want.

#5063 4 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

BTW anyone have recommendations on purple and red LEDs for the World Cup inserts & saucers (they aren't purple enough for me using white LEDs) and then the red rollovers actually look more orange than red with white LEDs.
Thinking comet purple passion LEDs for the inserts/saucers. Not sure on the reds.

Yes, I recommend them. When I originally converted mine, I started with the LED conversion kit from Marco. Basically, each lense has that color light under it, and the GI are all white. I have modified mine along the way, and changed a few things, but for the most part, it's still that kit as the foundation. No flicker on anything.

Specifically, for my red rollovers, I went with a dual led (2 tails off of a single 555 plug), which kind of shine light from both sides of the reed switch under the button. The same could be applied to the free kick holes, or the corner kick. I don't actually recall if I put in twin tail purples for those or not... Been years since I put them in.

1 week later
#5064 4 months ago

Hi there!
I just found this topic. I'm a big fan of this game. I played it many times back then, and never dreamed to get one at home. And now my dream come true. I made some fine tune with leds and colordmd, and it's awesome!
Here's a video with my machine with all led:


And another one with the colordmd debugging:

Because this coloring wasn't finished good enough, so I made them a video about all the animations. Sadly they did not yet updated the ROM. Only my first complaint was instantly corrected: the buy in ball's display was only black and white, and even sometimes blank...
I hope they will update the rom with the missing coloring. Eg: setup menu is all white(default color), after some animation like extra ball, or striker B.I.G. award it reverts to white...and many flip animations too. In standby the credits are purple, but the free play is all white with the last score.
So that's all for now.

#5065 4 months ago

Could somebody (who has the original flag-topper 31-1925-18) take a photo of the top surface of their backbox?
I want to see exactly where the holes for the 2 L-shaped bases are located for the topper mounting.
Unfortunately my backbox didn’t come with the holes for the topper...

#5066 4 months ago

I don't see any topper on the original flyers for this table. Can you show me what you want?
There is a pic from GCS2000 with a custom topper on it. And it looks very good too.
Maybe ask him(?) about it?

#5068 4 months ago

Aham, ok. Google image finder shows me this image as the only result. Is it really official? And it only a bunch of flags, maybe that ones what appears in the game's match list.
Sorry, I can't help you with that.

#5069 4 months ago

I’ve posted this before, but I think it’s worth a second try:
The pages for the WCS 94 topper of the midway/Bally Gray parts catalog are MISSING from the planetary pinball web document.
If someone has or finds the original gray parts catalog and sees the missing pages, the mystery of the original topper and the 2x L-brackets holding it will probably be solved
PS: besides Marco, PPS also sells this topper: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-1925-18-SP

#5070 4 months ago

Hey everybody! I'm having some troubles with my WCS94. When I shoot the ball into the TV award scoop, the F104 fuse blows. I replaced the coil and diode just because the old one looked terrible.

Even after I replaced the coil, the fuse still blows. I'm thinking I need to replace the transistor along with a new diode on the coil.

Am I heading in the wrong direction? If it is a transistor, which transistor would it be?

Also unrelated problem. DMD goes "fuzzy" some times. I think it's just a loose connection. Which plug would I need to check?

#5071 4 months ago
Quoted from LoserKid3:

Hey everybody! I'm having some troubles with my WCS94. When I shoot the ball into the TV award scoop, the F104 fuse blows. I replaced the coil and diode just because the old one looked terrible.
Even after I replaced the coil, the fuse still blows. I'm thinking I need to replace the transistor along with a new diode on the coil.
Am I heading in the wrong direction? If it is a transistor, which transistor would it be?
Also unrelated problem. DMD goes "fuzzy" some times. I think it's just a loose connection. Which plug would I need to check?

The driver transistor for the TV popper is Q80. Normally, if the transistor is shorted it would lock the solenoid and blow the fuse immediately on power up though.

#5072 4 months ago
Quoted from LoserKid3:

Hey everybody! I'm having some troubles with my WCS94. When I shoot the ball into the TV award scoop, the F104 fuse blows. I replaced the coil and diode just because the old one looked terrible.
Even after I replaced the coil, the fuse still blows. I'm thinking I need to replace the transistor along with a new diode on the coil.
Am I heading in the wrong direction? If it is a transistor, which transistor would it be?
Also unrelated problem. DMD goes "fuzzy" some times. I think it's just a loose connection. Which plug would I need to check?

Look for shorts under the playfield. Some loose wire might be touching a coil’s pad or wire (violet-red is the drive wire). You should also check that you have the power and the drive wire connected correctly and not backwards.
Also check the solenoid’s ohmage (it’s a AE-26-1500) and compare to another AE-26-1500 ohms.

#5073 4 months ago
Quoted from LoserKid3:

Hey everybody! I'm having some troubles with my WCS94. When I shoot the ball into the TV award scoop, the F104 fuse blows. I replaced the coil and diode just because the old one looked terrible.
Even after I replaced the coil, the fuse still blows. I'm thinking I need to replace the transistor along with a new diode on the coil.
Am I heading in the wrong direction? If it is a transistor, which transistor would it be?
Also unrelated problem. DMD goes "fuzzy" some times. I think it's just a loose connection. Which plug would I need to check?

make sure you didn't put the wires the wrong way around on the solenoid, of coarse the solenoid can be either way but the diode you mentioned CAN NOT BE.

hope this helps.

#5074 4 months ago
Quoted from provato:Look for shorts under the playfield. Some loose wire might be touching a coil’s pad or wire (violet-red is the drive wire). You should also check that you have the power and the drive wire connected correctly and not backwards.
Also check the solenoid’s ohmage (it’s a AE-26-1500) and compare to another AE-26-1500 ohms.

I did install a new AE-26-1500 solenoid. It had the diode already installed as well. Where should the wires be on the solenoid and if I did hook them up incorrectly, do I need to replace the diode or something?

#5075 4 months ago

LoserKid3: Some days ago I got the same error with flickering DMD picture in my WCS, and my solution was reconnecting the big ribbon cable from J201 on the security board to the J602 on the Dot Matrix Controller Board.
I debugged the game with powered on state, and fluttered the cables to see if it has any affect on the display. And it did!

#5076 4 months ago
Quoted from pycur:

LoserKid3: Some days ago I got the same error with flickering DMD picture in my WCS, and my solution was reconnecting the big ribbon cable from J201 on the security board to the J602 on the Dot Matrix Controller Board.
I debugged the game with powered on state, and fluttered the cables to see if it has any affect on the display. And it did!

Awesome! Thanks @pycur. I will give that a try. I figured I had to do with a reconnect because the DMD looks good most times but starts to go "static" like a TV loosing an antenna channel.

#5077 4 months ago
Quoted from LoserKid3:

I did install a new AE-26-1500 solenoid. It had the diode already installed as well. Where should the wires be on the solenoid and if I did hook them up incorrectly, do I need to replace the diode or something?

oh, I just checked my game... the coil needs no diode!! The diode is on the power driver board! Remove the diode completely that's probably what's causing the fuse blow.
I'm sorry but I forgot this was a WPC security game.

#5078 4 months ago

Current pic of my game with some mods and “accessories”:

USA Foot Locker
Full-sized FIFA World Cup Trophy replica
Plastic Topper Strip
Official Adidas 1994 World Cup Soccer Ball

5C02D8D2-0146-4361-A9FE-A146469B3B92 (resized).jpeg
#5079 4 months ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Current pic of my game with some mods and “accessories”:
USA Foot Locker
Full-sized FIFA World Cup Trophy replica
Plastic Topper Strip
Official Adidas 1994 World Cup Soccer Ball
[quoted image]

What?
No Los Angeles final
ticket stub?

#5080 4 months ago
Quoted from provato:

oh, I just checked my game... the coil needs no diode!! The diode is on the power driver board! Remove the diode completely that's probably what's causing the fuse blow.
I'm sorry but I forgot this was a WPC security game.

Thanks! This is what the problem ended up being. New coil had a diode already installed on it so I didn't think twice before installing it. I removed the diode last night and it works like a charm.

#5081 4 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Prop the playfield up. From underneath the playfield push out the kicker arm all the way. Gently bend the arm from the top side of the playfield to one side or the other a tiny bit. Then test it and see if it’s how you like it.

thanks for the advice but unfortunately that didnt worked for mine. i had to bend the switch next to it (which registers the ball) for the kicker arm to work properly. the switch was in the way and hindered the kicker arm so it couldnt kick the ball with full power. now the saucer works just fine.

but theres a new problem. maybe somebody experienced the same thing... sometimes hitting the goalie registers as a shot goal. thats something very disappointing. multiball and world cup final are just to easy since this problem occurred. i recognised it when the game suddenly gave me an extra ball. it happened because with factory settings the first striker award (in this case EB) can be achieved by shooting a goal but i had just hit the goalie.

what can i do?

#5082 4 months ago

I have a NOS set of ramp decals for wcs 94 (10 pieces) for 25 shipped conus. These are super hard to find, and typically go for double what I am asking.

PM me if interested.

#5083 4 months ago
Quoted from throughfire:

thanks for the advice but unfortunately that didnt worked for mine. i had to bend the switch next to it (which registers the ball) for the kicker arm to work properly. the switch was in the way and hindered the kicker arm so it couldnt kick the ball with full power. now the saucer works just fine.
but theres a new problem. maybe somebody experienced the same thing... sometimes hitting the goalie registers as a shot goal. thats something very disappointing. multiball and world cup final are just to easy since this problem occurred. i recognised it when the game suddenly gave me an extra ball. it happened because with factory settings the first striker award (in this case EB) can be achieved by shooting a goal but i had just hit the goalie.
what can i do?

Another switch adjustment. Look at the switches in the goal/striker hole.

#5084 4 months ago

Hi folks,

I need to visit the place where I've place my WCS 94 for our charity project (Strasbourg's Hospital, France) as they managed to tear off the ball launcher.

I have no replacement now, do you think that I can get the ball launcher from my Mousin Around to replace temporary ? (sys 11b)

Thanks

#5085 4 months ago

You just mean the plunger? Yeah I think the Mousin Around one would be fine.

#5086 4 months ago

yes, plunger with the tip, springs

#5087 4 months ago

I believe WCS will use a different plunger spring (needs to be pretty light since it just goes into the coin flip) but pretty sure everything else will be the same. So I'd just use the existing spring if it's not missing.

#5088 4 months ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Hi folks,
I need to visit the place where I've place my WCS 94 for our charity project (Strasbourg's Hospital, France) as they managed to tear off the ball launcher.
I have no replacement now, do you think that I can get the ball launcher from my Mousin Around to replace temporary ? (sys 11b)
Thanks

Yes, my WCS came with a shooter rod from a 70's Bally.

#5089 4 months ago

Thanks.
Will give a try and a feedback !
Have a good day

#5090 4 months ago

I'm picking up this game this weekend most likely. I'll be using pinstadium lights, but what is the best way to LED it? Cointaker kit, Comet kit, or piecing it out myself?

#5091 4 months ago

All,

I can't remember if I posted these here or not, but my brother was restoring his WCS and at the time there were no new ramps on the horizon so I had some new ramp flaps made so he could finish his machine.

If anyone else needs a set to finish their restoration, I put them in our storefront here: https://store.circusmaximusgames.com/collections/new-items/products/world-cup-soccer-ramp-flap-set

$12 a set plus shipping.

If you need ramps themselves, I know Larry at Starship Fantasy is close to being ready to send his out. His include the ramp flaps, so you won't need these if you plan on buying ramps from Starship.

Paul

#5092 4 months ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Thanks.
Will give a try and a feedback !
Have a good day

And YES !
I've put the mousin around launcher, the wcs spring was laying inside and the machine is working again.
Children and their parents will enjoy again a pinball game while waiting the doc !

1 week later
#5093 3 months ago

Just joined the club this weekend after spending quite some time looking for a nice example of this game. A fellow pinsider did a great job LED'ing this game, replacing the plastics, etc., and now I finally get to hear how LOUD the soccer ball motor is when the game is in a quiet environment! (I had only played it before at shows or arcades or such and never noticed how loud it was). I've seen several posts in this topic about mitigating that noise, and will be checking the motor/gearbox to see if any of those suggestions apply.

This is a great game and the GOOOOAAAALLLL sound just sticks in your head!

#5094 3 months ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

Just joined the club this weekend after spending quite some time looking for a nice example of this game. A fellow pinsider did a great job LED'ing this game, replacing the plastics, etc., and now I finally get to hear how LOUD the soccer ball motor is when the game is in a quiet environment! (I had only played it before at shows or arcades or such and never noticed how loud it was). I've seen several posts in this topic about mitigating that noise, and will be checking the motor/gearbox to see if any of those suggestions apply.
This is a great game and the GOOOOAAAALLLL sound just sticks in your head!

Congrats! Here is your solution

Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I have figured out how to make the ball motor dead quiet! After a lot of messing around with it, I discovered that my problem wasn't lube, but the tightness of the screws on the motor. If they are too tight (the phillips head ones), the gears will grind, it will be noisy, and there can be enough resistance to blow a fuse. If you have a noisy motor, lift the table up and spin the ball while adjusting the screws. You should be able to hear a clear difference in volume. My motor is now dead quiet. The goalie is noisey, but the ball motor makes no noise.
The only thing that's bugging me on my machine now is my darn diverter ramp. I had it perfect, but after taking apart the machine to put in new rubbers, I can't get it dialed back in. I understand I can sort of turn the spring in and out, but it doesn't really seem to make a difference. About once a game the ball will drain because it meets resistance on the ramp and it's driving me nuts. Anyone got any tips?
New rubbers make a world of difference! I'm pretty sure some of the old one's were originals as they came off like chewed gum... It made a huge difference in the game's feel. I got 5 billion points last night after 3 or 4 games.
All in all I'm really loving the machine. As this is a one pin house for the moment I will be enjoying this until early next year, and probably switching out for a Jurassic Park. Thanks for all the help folks.

1/4 turn at a time.

#5095 3 months ago

You gotta respect a guy that isn't even in the club anymore, dropping by to help a new guy out. Bravo!

#5096 3 months ago

Finally set my WCS back up and getting around to troubleshooting it. Figured out a problem today that was not obvious at all.

My power driver board has known voltage issues. It had also developed an intermittently weak right flipper, which ended up blowing a fuse the other day. I suspect this had been a nagging issue since the entire right flipper mech had been replaced at some point.

Put a circuit breaker in and the next time it went weak I put it into switch edge test. Holding down the flipper button you could see it rapidly blinking while the other side - one with an aftermarket opto board - would register fine. Switched the opto boards and the problem moved to the other side.

Crazy stuff. Going to replace the original since the aftermarket board seems more tolerant.

#5097 3 months ago

I have written down some questions I have about the game and I hope owners of WCS94 in here can help me. Noone has been able to answer me so far...

1.What is the alternative part # of 31-1925-37 plastic? (A lot of WCS94 plastics have two different alternative part#. My original plastic had this number written on the green and not on the yellow, but unfortunately last digit is scratched. It was 31-1925-2xxx.... I think the alternative of -37 is -24 from what I've seen in a very low-res photo)

2.Does anyone have photos or scans of (a)16-9634 - sheet-field service instruct (b)16-9647-1 - pricing card insert - usa (c)16-9093 - form * journal and (d)16-9478 - card-registration? (These parts are decribed in the original parts list in ipdb)

3.Plastics 31-1925-3 & 31-1925-10 (Or 1925A-3 & 31-1925A-10). The first one is NOT in the official parts list, but appears in Marco and other websites. Where does it go? The second one IS in the official parts list, but it doesn't appear in any google search I've tried. What does this part look like and where does it go?

4.Is there a 31-1928-2 decal as seen on the diagram of the coin toss assembly? (see bally/midway gray parts catalog & WCS94 manual)

5.Does anyone have the original bally/midway gray parts catalog? It's important because the pages referring to the 31-1925-18 plastic topper are missing from the planetary pinball website. Also I would appreciate a photo of the top of the backbox of someone's pinball machine if he has the original holes made for the topper. Unfortunately mine doesn't have them

6.where do rubber protectors 23-6534-3 go? (According to official parts list there are 2x in "usa dbv rdy specific final asy" and 2x in "world cup playfield assy". I found thanks to a pinsider that one goes over the tackle, on the left ramp to avoid balls getting stuck under there - but where do the other 3 described in the parts list go?)

7. Is there a FACTORY nylon washer under the diverter that sits between the metal washer and the plastic ramp? No manual or official parts list enlists such a washer but I’ve seen some photos of people having one there.

#5098 3 months ago

That’s why I love pinside! I found the answer to question #1 thanks to a pinsider’s post 5-6 years ago! (Yes, I’ve read all the wcs94 30 pages related topics to find a single photo and I found it!)
The alternative part number for 31-1925-37 is “31-1925-24”

5BC8318B-A66C-48C9-83DB-595478F9925A (resized).jpeg

I hope someone will help me with my other 6 questions

#5099 3 months ago

Hello to the club!

Little issue with my dear WCS94... It does not put a ball in the shooting lane when I start a game...
- The DMD shows "ball 1, score 0", everything seems normal
- The goalie and the football are active
- No ball shows up in the shooting lane

Things I tried:
- I have 5 balls loaded
- Switches 31,32,33,34,35,36 (trough) are responding well to tests
- Trough solenoid (6) is working well in test mode and puts balls in shooting lane when actuated

Any idea?

#5100 3 months ago

Check that the trough isn’t pitted, and also that your balls aren’t magnetized.

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