may be,can anyone confirm the reality versus the manual ??

lock magnet was not working, but flipper was.
f904 was burnt. I've changed it, lock magnet was back until it burns again few plays later.

f904 seems lock magnet

I’ve already checked and I’m sure. Maybe you have the wrong cables connected to magnet. Check colour of cables going to magnet and left flipper.
You should have yellow-gray and red-grey going to lock magnet.
Also you should have red-blue, yellow-blue and orange blue going to left flipper

Damn. Literally an hour into TPF my plunger in my VUK broke off at the base where the plastic connects to the metal rod. I was able to do a temp fix by using epoxy. That held til the last day of TPF. Working on getting a replacement. Anyone else had to replace theirs in the past?

Marco usually has them in stock...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6709

This is not accurate.

The Flippers are the UPPER flippers, and the Magnets are the LOWER flippers (opposite of logic).

F904 is the ball capture magnet on the mini playfield on the left side of the machine, on the down chute, and the fuse should not exceed the value. If it's constantly blowing, then I recommend a new magnet.

You are correct... 904 is the ball lock magnet. Again, the flippers are the upper flippers on the fliptronic II board, and the lower flippers are the magnets.

It is looking like you need a new magnet, but you might try removing the mini playfield and inspect for a short, or signs of melting.

If you want to verify the magnet is bad, it's not too difficult to swap the 2 magnets, and see if the problem follows. After all, how often do you use magna-save anyway?

Thanks for confirming
starting from the time i've posted this, the fuse has not blown again.
resistance of both magnets are similar (4.7 Oh), so it must have been a bad fuse
I've cleaned the support, the connectors.. i'll post again if issue arise again

The pinball will shortly move to the hospital, but i have one question remaining.
I think the hole protector is a must have, but do you recommend the whole kit with goal protector ..

in addition, i've seen playfield protectors, does anyone have experience to share about this, how does it affect gameplay, is it compatible with hole protectors.
The machine will take 100-140 games per day so i think some protection might be useful ^^

Just ordered the color DMD, looks awesome.

Hope it gets here by Friday!

If I am understanding you correctly, you are talking about Cliffy protectors.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/wcs94.htm
It's about $100 for the full set that he makes. It includes the goal ledge, strikers hideout, tv award scoop, all 3 kick holes, shooter lane.

I don't have them, but I have been considering.

Another thing to watch for is the back plates for the kick holes. They tend to come lose a lot, and are difficult to get at to re-tighten.

OK, i'll think about that..
any xp with play field protector?

If you are talking about a film you put down, I do not recommend those. The key to protecting the playfield is to keep the machine clean, put carnauba wax on the playfield, and change the balls when they are showing wear. New balls are important. They get pitted from banging into everything, and each other, and those pits can begin to rust. All of this is abrasive on the playfield.

I've used the playfield protectors that are thin plastic. They work great, and I didn't have any issues until I sold the machine. It is now on route with a local operator and from my understanding, he loves it as well.

Outside of clearcoating, a sheet of mylar is an excellent solution. It takes a full tear down, and then you can run the sheet over the whole playfield (and have to cut out all of the holes), but it works great and is a solid long term solution. IIRC, Vid uses this method as well.

My 8 year old just scored over 5.5 billion! I’ve never been more proud of him

I’m having issues with my Striker’s hideout popper. Sometimes it’s fine and sometimes it’ll take 10+ attempts before the ball has enough force to shoot up and come down the wire chute.

Anything I should be looking for to fix?

Verify your VUK plunger is intact and that the solenoid is free moving. More than likely a mechanical issue.

my high was 2 billy, and i'm a grown ass man.

I put a color DMD in mine about 2 weeks after I got it. Best decision I could have made for the game. With all of the animation that is integral to the game, I think it gives it a nice look and just feels a little more fun when I play it. Love it when Striker kicks the ball back into play.

Haha my high is 2.9b and was comfortably in the grand champ slot. The kid almost doubled me.

My dream mods are the colorDMD and invisiglass. Nice that they are including the colorDMD. Often it will be removed and placed in another pin.

Anyone have surplus playfield protector that they never got around to installing and are looking to sell?

My WCS has an awful cracked insert problem and some wear issues that I want to cover up with more than just mylar.

My highest I got was 5.5 Billion as well. It was one hell of a game. Beat Germany twice. I have not been able to get anywhere close to that score again. Hell I barely can crack a billion on my machine now.....

☹️ The one you were getting fell through?

magnet lock is grabbing the ball correctly when rolling slowly from left ramp, but not catching the fast paced ball from right ramp...
any fix ??

Hi. Long time listener, first time caller. I had an amazing ball and wanted to share.
A friend dropped by the other day and I fired up the game for game of doubles. I hadn't played in a month. "I'll start" I said and started player 1. When that ball finally drained I had just over 3.7B. No extra balls played yet, just the ball I started. That alone was my third highest score in the 2 years I've had the game. I won final match and got some victory laps against Germany in multiball. I wish I had timed it. Couldn't guess how long I played but it was a long time. Kinda choked after that but still got my best yet of 4.9B. Factory settings. (I have the posts above the outlanes in the middle position which I assume is factory. I have my soccer ball spinning clockwise which I also assume from posts here is factory setting but I am not sure of either. )

It might be a switch adjustment... Are you sure it's the speed it's going by the magnet, and not the speed it's going over the switch that triggers the magnet? My theory is that the switch is not adjusted properly, or is failing, so the ball is going over the switch so fast that it is not activating the magnet.

As a new WCS owners (a couple months ago) I fully shopped my machine and was very happy with the result but since then I have been having an issue that I can't seem to resolve. When I drain a ball occasionally it doesn't register in the drain (i.e. it still thinks the ball is in play). I have taken out the drain and cleaned it and checked the opti sensors and all looks good. When this happens, I can look down the drain and see the ball and with some firm hits from the left on the machine it will physically move a small amount and then will register as drained, so I think its a physical issue rather than an optical sensor issue.

That said, after taking it all apart nothing looks wrong and there is no adjusting I can see that can be made. I have checked the level of the machine (from the playfield) with two levels and all is good so not an issue with it being tilted to the left...

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Quite possible (in fact, probable based on your description) that your balls are magnetized. Try new balls and see if this helps the situation.

Swapping the balls seems to have fixed it. Thanks! I think one of the balls was magnetized while the others weren't which was why the issue was periodic.

There’s a plastic trough insert you can get that helps with magnetized balls. But in my experience, swapping them out like you’ve done is the better solution.

Greetings all. After being out of the hobby for a few years, and mainly being an EM guy, I recently purchased a WCS94. The Assist Hole has a lot of wear with the edge dredged out toward the Goal, but the hole looks like it might have been round when new. The two Free Kick Holes have wear that is much less severe, so I can clearly see they both are round with a uniform beveled edge (~45 degrees) around the circumference.

When the game was new, was the Assist Hole the same as the Free Kick Holes, that is, round with a beveled edge? If so, when I repair the Assist Hole, should I try to reproduce the hole as it was when new? I guess I'm a little uncertain as to how much of the damage I'm repairing is due to normal play with chronic unrepaired wear and tear, and how much might be due to the kick out mechanism not kicking out the ball high enough to clear the edge of the hole.

I've read the posts concerning the need for Cliffy protectors on WCS94, and the potential issues with using them, but I haven't seen much about the repair itself or all the causes of excessive wear in this area.

Your thoughts about this Assist Hole repair? What works, what doesn't?

Thanks for your time!

Which way is the ball designed to spin. Up trowds the goal, or down to the flippers?

The ball spins towards the goal until the World Cup final against Germany then it spins towards you. There is a test in the menu to check, mine was wired backwards when I bought it.

The Marco replacement motor was marked incorrectly.

Fantastic. I've had it going backwards for 4 months.

Hahaha, I had it going backwards for like 10 years.

So have you guys never experienced the joy of scoring a goal from the corner kick when it hits the spinning ball and is flung into the goal?? Brings a smile to my face every single time!!

I am looking for a WCS speaker panel if anyone happens to have one. The one I have has a large melted spot right in the middle. I looked online but only found the LED ultimate one. I thought I'd try here to see if I could get lucky.

Yeah it was more like “kickback ball straight at the flippers” lol, although my kickback switches were kinda flaky too.

I finally went through a year or so ago and sorted it all back. Really improved the game to be honest!

Might be that, but more likely the trough has pits in it, and the balls get stuck and will not roll forward.
I had this issue for a long time, new balls did not really help, and I had to file my trough rails a couple times.
Eventually, I decided to get a shim, and have not had a problem since. If you really want to solve the issue, then this is the way to do it.
Marco sells them here:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=trough+shim

Well son of a bitch, I bought a new motor for it about 5 years ago. My brother always complains the ball was spinning wrong. He was right!

The previous owner replaced it and installed it according to the colors and when I started playing something seemed weird.

Unfortunately the motor went bad so I bought a new one from Marco and tested it before I soldered it and mine was marked backwards as well!

The worst part for you is admitting to your brother he was right!

Screwy thing with the ball is that the design creates an optical illusion that it’s spinning clockwise when it’s really spinning counter-clockwise (and vice versa).

I thought I was fine after my motor replacement for a day or two because of that (and the marco colors) but the bad kickbacks made me investigate.