The game came stock with a brass wireform, coin toss mech, and legs.

Right—earlier I had mentioned I had no clue this was the case since none of mine showed any signs of brass at first glance. So I was asked to post pics.

EDIT: and I just realized the quote function isn’t working for me on mobile, which probably lead to confusion.

Oh okay. My wireform and coin toss were still a good gold color when u got mine, the legs were very faded though and looked more dirty than brass.

The legs on mine are new replacements, so no surprise there.

Thank you sir!

Anyone else that had black-painted vinyl decal on top and bottom of the backbox instead of... just black paint?
9609ED99-3FB3-46BE-A1BE-57BC3752F7B4.jpeg

Marco sells a flag strip topper plastic, has anyone got a picture of the mounting bracket for this. It looks like the holes provided in the plastic are for riveting so I am thinking some kind of metal right angle.Thanks in advance, Terry.

This l-shaped metal angle MUST be included in the grey parts catalogue. Unfortunately these pages referring to the wcs94 topper are missing from the planetarypinball website...
So please if anyone owns the original grey parts catalog, scan these pages to see which part # is the topper, its screws and its brackets...

Just want to follow up on my own message. I disassembled everything and it turns out that the Cliffy protector was not sitting flush with the wood, causing the mechanical arm to get slowed up on one side.

I took out the cliffy protector and bent it to a perfect 90 degrees in a vice. Replaced it in its place and goalie moves perfectly now.

Advice if you install a cliffy in this area is to make it really sits flush with the playfield surface and also the inside lip of the goal.

20190308_175654 (resized).jpg

If you over tighten the main posts its moves & flex's the cliffy also, got mine to just fit ok

I have searched this thread but have not found the answers. Both my free kick saucers are very weak. On on the right barely enough oomph to get it out of the saucer. In fact, sometimes not enough, and the game tries several times to release the ball from the saucer. Is there a way to adjust the strength of this? The mechanism seems to move freely, coil sleeves look and feel good.

Time to replace the coils? Thanks.

I would bet you have a cooked pin/connection that corresponds to the power for those coils...I cant imagine those coils ever "burning out" from use...

I have had seen plenty of games with over 1/2 a million flips through the original coils with nothing but new sleeves/stops with nary a sign of fatigue.

Trace the wires back and I bet you'll find your culprit.

Start with the mech itself and make sure nothing is causing binding and spring is working right and snappy. Compare them to the assist saucer mech too. They are all the same.

Coil is fine most likely. They don’t get weak.

Chuckwurt is probably right...make sure there isn't a bunch of gunk built up in them. Previous owner could have "greased" them up with something to get more action out of them, and now they are caked with coil/rubber dust.

I have the same issues with mine, but I think it's too much power. I think the ball hits the plastic over the hole and that deadens its momentum.

What is a good LED kit for WCS94? I'm thinking about ordering the Cointaker Frosted.

Just put warm white frosted everywhere. I think they call them retro or something. Looks great.

It's really personal preference. However, I will say that I have been disappointed with all the bulbs I have gotten from cointaker, compared to other bulbs.
I don't even recall where I got mine... But it was custom kit specifically for WCS, where most of the bulbs were white, but colored lights under the colored lenses. Similar to this one from Marco
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/05-1858
But again, it's a personal preference.

On the topic of lights... what color is the TV light supposed to be? I’ve got a smooth slow color changing light at the moment. But I feel like it’s been different on every machine I’ve played.

White.

I just restored the side wood rails. Painted them allover satine (semi-gloss) black and wrapped them in black wood-grain vinyl decal (just like the factory did). I'm really impressed with the original look and how easy it was.
IMG_6621 (resized).JPGIMG_6622 (resized).JPG

Anyone interested in the following items? They came with the game when I bought it. I love the game and it plays great so I haven't installed in a year and probably won't.

7 Piece Cliffy's for WCS normally $98(http://www.passionforpinball.com/wcs94.htm)
World Cup Soccer Back Ramp - Plastic only 03-9107.5 (Not sure of value since I couldn't find one anywhere!)

PM me any offers and I can send pictures if wanted. Put an ad up after so many questions.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/76650

Dave

Lately my balls have been getting airborne a lot more than usual and often they end up getting stuck on the ultra jets. Any initial thoughts on what might be causing this? It’s hard to pinpoint exactly what’s happening—too fast.

On the back of my goalie the top screw is soldered in, I assume someone hacked it this way and it isn’t supposed to be correct?

Yep that’s a hack. These two screws go to a plate-nut behind the goalie

Thanks- it is now corrected and back to how it should be!

Can anyone tell me the difference between the L-2 and LX-2 game rom for WCS?

It’s actually LA-2 and LX-2.
“A” stands for America, “X” stands for Export.

There is also a prototype (P3 I think) for exported games... the operator that had the game before me had this P-3 rom installed and had also made a handwritten sticker for the IC. When bought it I thought wow... someone knew rom reading and burning back in the 90’s Greece!

Thanks provato, so the LX-2 that is in my game is the latest version available?

Yes, LX-2 is the latest “non-beta” version for regions outside USA & Canada.
But they also released a “beta” version after lx-2 named p-3 (prototype) for exported regions.

Does anyone have the details about what changed in P-3?

Two of my favourite days in pinball restoration:
Base color spray painting and decals applying (or stencils, or touch-up)
D4E87039-9DF1-4845-A90C-EAF2F15E9213 (resized).jpeg4A446EE1-BF5D-4913-B8B8-62C443D12F27.jpeg81804721-3874-4CD8-9E69-033071F768F3.jpeg9EB53B95-6749-46E0-9D9B-467A7316DDE3.jpeg

I believe the starting team you are, dependent on the country the machine was going to. (This may be an operator setting, my machine is not a reimport and it's always been Holland is the reigning champ after I beat Germany, I just never cared enough to change it)

So yeah, I'm not sure, haha.

looks yummy.

Thanks, I like to keep things as original as possible. I sprayed enamel black with a “fade-out” effect inside. The rest of the inside is just lightly hand-sanded to bring forth the real wooden colour. And of course the trim was masked and only filled with iron-putty to straighten the edges.

I have a question about the part number of a plastic.
I'm reffering to the small triangular plastic above "TV award" ball popper. Does anyone have a "31-1925-24" part number on it or different part # than "31-1925-37"?

Here's a tech question for everyone before I did deeper into the problem. My soccer ball is turning very slowly. Like maybe 1 or 2 revolutions per second compared to a a normal 5-10 revolutions per second. Anyone else experienced this before? I'm planning to drill out the rivets in the gearbox and regrease everything in hopes that that is the issue (and avoid the cost for a new unit), but if anyone has any other ideas, let me know.

Mike

Check a few pages back, sataneatscheese had an issue as you describe. Be careful with the type of lube you use, as you don't want it to "gum up" on you. I think he had a problem where he overlubed the mech, and it practically froze up; after he cleaned it out and went lighter, it was good to go.

The motor also needs to be checked.
Also do you feel any vibration when the ball is spinning?

Are you sure it's soldered in? If you notice, that top bolt happes to be right at the level of the top of the goal. If the bolt pertrudes from the end of the nut even a little bit, it gets mushroomed/flattened, by the repeated impact. If you replace the bolt, cut it down to the point where the nut hits the goal top, and not the bolt.

Yep it was, I removed it and now the screw doesn't stick out the back either. So all good on both fronts!

Thanks.

Anyone have a skill shot assembly that they want to sell, please P.M. me.

About to get a WCS soon, yay!! Any essential mods you guys recommend?

Also any toppers out there anywhere? I saw the one that littleshopofgames did as there was one FS in the market but missed out. Would love to grab one like if any more around or something close to it.

TIA

Mylar around the saucers, then enjoy!

Mine came with the carbon fiber cliffys around the saucers. I like the look and protection.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/wcs94.htm

Thank you! Saw pics of these on someones machine and was wondering where they got them.

hello guys!
I've just picked up a wcs94.
it's planned to be located in a children hospital for our charity project.
it's currently under hard testing by my 3 kids and I'm troubleshooting.
everything is now OK except 1 last point.
f904 keeps blowing from time to time.
the lock magnet works perfectly well then after few plays, fuse burns.
I did not find the reason why..
the initial fuse was a 5A so overfused but it was working for dozen of plays.

would anyone point me some ways to sort out the issue ?

other than that, that's really a well-packaged and fun pinball. glad to have this one at home and can't wait to place it in the hospital!!

F904 is the fuse of the lower left flipper.
I’m guessing your problem is because of the EOS switch not being closed (or it’s not connected).

Anyone can help me with this question and a photo of their plastic?

f904 is lock magnet

Photo of the official wcs94 manual:85637DAE-B20B-4C25-8F32-D58C9B05FEE1 (resized).jpeg

F904= lower left flipper
F902= upper left flipper (which is used by the lock magnet)