(Topic ID: 262688)

World Cup Soccer 94 "No high power coils"


By galacticgames

38 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 days ago by pinmike
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 38 days ago

I am having a baffling issue. All coils 1 - 8 (High power) do not fire either in play or test. I have eliminated the board because I tested another board from another game (Gilligan's) that works fine. I checked continuity from the connector (J130) to the coils and get continuity, but I check any coil will read on all wires (Violet) and the same on the power in at J107. I do get 72 volts going in at J107 on all wires. Is there a fuse other than what is on the board (F105) I am missing as it's not mentioned in the manual.

Note: All the other coils work fine.

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

#2 38 days ago

You posted the same thin in the WCS thread.
Did you check your high-power interlock switch at the coin door?

#3 37 days ago

That was the first thing I did. And it checked good, but it may still be bad. Will need to change it out. Didn't have one on hand.

#4 35 days ago

Ok I have checked this: Interlock works, wiring from switch to board is good, Used anpther board and still nothing and yes it does work on 1-8. Only thingleft is disconnect the coils one by one from the main line

#5 34 days ago

So, you've run other tests, I'm assuming?
1. If you ground the driver side of the coil, the coil fires? You have 50v on the feed line? If no, this is your issiue.
2. If yes, you ground the driver line at the board, the coil fires?

#6 34 days ago

Voltage is there at J107 reading 71 on the test part. Had other issues with other machines that was repairable. It will have to wait till Sunday for me to test the rest.

#7 33 days ago
Quoted from galacticgames:

Voltage is there at J107 reading 71 on the test part. Had other issues with other machines that was repairable. It will have to wait till Sunday for me to test the rest.

Yup, test at the coil. There's a lot of wire between J107 and the coil.

1 week later
#8 26 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

So, you've run other tests, I'm assuming?
1. If you ground the driver side of the coil, the coil fires? You have 50v on the feed line? If no, this is your issiue.
2. If yes, you ground the driver line at the board, the coil fires?

Dealing with exactly the same problem galacticgames is facing on a DH I am "rebuilding/assembling." Coils 1 to 8 are all dead, the rest of the coils fire. I have voltage at the power driver board on J107 pin 2 of 72.9 volts. Fuse is good. Also tested voltage on Red-Brown voltage wire at a couple of the coils and got 72 volts. I have never "grounded" coils to fire them in a game. What's the best method? Use a jumper wire from the drive side purple wire side and touch it to the ground wire in the game? I am worried about frying transistors on the power driver board.(maybe they already are, but I can't image all of them are in the group from J130.) This feels like a wiring issue but it is hard to tell, should I be testing something else? I have run into some other hacks on this game in the wiring.
Thanks for any ideas and guidance.

#9 25 days ago
Quoted from PAR:

Use a jumper wire from the drive side purple wire side and touch it to the ground wire in the game? I am worried about frying transistors on the power driver board.(maybe they already are, but I can't image all of them are in the group from J130.)

Yup - short it to a ground strap. Just brush the other end of your jumper over the wire - no need to hold it - you're just keeping an eye/ear out for movement from the coil. 99.99% sure you will get the coil to kick if you test on the coil itself. I would try it from the coil (juuuuuust in case) and then from the connector in the backbox.

This point, you won't harm the transistor.

1 week later
#10 18 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yup - short it to a ground strap. Just brush the other end of your jumper over the wire - no need to hold it - you're just keeping an eye/ear out for movement from the coil. 99.99% sure you will get the coil to kick if you test on the coil itself. I would try it from the coil (juuuuuust in case) and then from the connector in the backbox.
This point, you won't harm the transistor.

So my saga continues, today I thought I would test the continuity on the wires that run from the J130 connector to the coils that are not working, I unplugged the J130 (The Violet striped wires ) connector from the Power Driver Board. I clipped my DMM onto the lug of each coil, (1,2,3,4,5,7,& 8 etc) the violet wire side, and touched the other wire of the DMM to the appropriate connector plug.
The good news, I got tone on everyone.
The bad news, when I touched any other wired part of the plug I got tone too. So no matter which coil I checked every plug with a wire associated to it on the J130 connector gave me tone.
These wires shouldn't be daisy chained together like the 50 volt side should they?
(This DH is a build from parts, the playfield was wired when i bought it quite a few years ago)
Thoughts? Help?

#11 18 days ago

So no coils are working at all? The connector that you are testing those wires are connected to the switches.Have checked the hi power coil knob near the coin door?Are the wires in correct place on that hi power coil knob?

#12 18 days ago
Quoted from pinmike:

So no coils are working at all? The connector that you are testing those wires are connected to the switches.Have checked the hi power coil knob near the coin door?Are the wires in correct place on that hi power coil knob?

Coils running from j107 pins 1 and 3 work, (solenoids 9 and up). Those powered from j107, pin 2, that whole string do not.
What's a coil knob? I haven't heard this term before.
Also, after sleeping on the continuity issue I listed last night, I think it was a wild goose chase since these coils don't have diodes and continuity would have run back thru the coils not just to the single violet wires?

#13 18 days ago
Quoted from pinmike:

So no coils are working at all? The connector that you are testing those wires are connected to the switches.Have checked the hi power coil knob near the coin door?Are the wires in correct place on that hi power coil knob?

Quoted from PAR:

Coils running from j107 pins 1 and 3 work, (solenoids 9 and up). Those powered from j107, pin 2, that whole string do not.
What's a coil knob? I haven't heard this term before.
Also, after sleeping on the continuity issue I listed last night, I think it was a wild goose chase since these coils don't have diodes and continuity would have run back thru the coils not just to the single violet wires?

He's meaning the High-Power Interlock, which I believe you mentioned you already had checked and pulled out ("engaged").

Quoted from PAR:

The bad news, when I touched any other wired part of the plug I got tone too. So no matter which coil I checked every plug with a wire associated to it on the J130 connector gave me tone.
These wires shouldn't be daisy chained together like the 50 volt side should they?

No, they're not daisy-chained. Something there is .. wrong.

Try this:
With your DMM in continuity mode, attach one lead to a ground-strap. Attach the other to one of the Violet wire pins on the Power Driver Board. Keep note of which coil you attached this leads to. You should NOT get continuity at this point. Go into Test Mode, Coil Tests, and select the coil output that you have the lead connected to. The DMM should 'beep' (continuity good) every few seconds, as the transistor drops the output to ground.

#14 17 days ago

If you have voltage on the coils and are missing a whole block of coils, I would treat this as a control issue, chances are the enable signal (SOL4) from the CPU is not getting to the power driver board.

The first step in troubleshooting is to simply flip over the small ribbon cable between the CPU and the power driver board, this will put the enable signal on a different line of the ribbon cable. If that has no effect, remove the CPU. put it on your bench and firmly press in on the ASIC to ensure is fully seated in its socket.

If you want to do a continuity check on this signal, SOL4 originates at the CPU board at U9-59 and ends at the solenoid control IC U5-11 on the PDB.

EDITED: Original post contained information for the WPC-95 board set

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#15 17 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

He's meaning the High-Power Interlock, which I believe you mentioned you already had checked and pulled out ("engaged").

No, they're not daisy-chained. Something there is .. wrong.
Try this:
With your DMM in continuity mode, attach one lead to a ground-strap. Attach the other to one of the Violet wire pins
on the Power Driver Board. Keep note of which coil you attached this leads to. You should NOT get continuity at this point. Go into Test Mode, Coil Tests, and select the coil output that you have the lead connected to. The DMM should 'beep' (continuity good) every few seconds, as the transistor drops the output to ground.

Sorry yes I meant high power coin door interlock knob

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