Hah! Looks pretty good from the outside - should clean up nicely.

I guess the person trying to troubleshoot just had one spool of wire... and used it for everything...

I would start by labeling with masking tape each connected end of the red wire, then testing continuity between the other (still connected) end and seeing if there was in fact a break.

Second thing to look at if there is no continuity is 'should there be continuity here'?

Of course you could do the interesting thing and try to fire it up... but I wouldn't. Not with loose bare wire hanging everywhere and a missing coil stop somewhere.

Nice legs!

Coney Island is a fun player, I think you'll like it once it's going.

I was thinking that too, which encouraged my comment about whether or not continuity should be present - but I do struggle to think of a mod that would connect certain lugs of the replay counters (all 3!) and the eb play relay. The only thing I could think is that it prevented step up/down of the reflex (maybe?!?) as credits were won or EB were played for.

Very curious!

Your selector unit is for the cards. There are only three on coney island so a two step selector makes sense. (Zero is card #1).

Also, yes, the button (doorbell) on the front is for free games. Wired directly into the coin switch. Hanging wires may be a problem. Perhaps doorbell wasn't soldered in and those are supposed to be pigtailed to the doorbell wires and exisitng coin switch?

Permanently closed coin switch might cause the behavior you're seeing.

Also, as to playfield lights: your 6v fuse block is either bad, or your anti-cheat relay needs attention.

There should be four fuses. Someone broke the brittle fuse holder on the right and now has inserted a jumper. Of course, the issue with this is that it will not protect the circuit.

Did your playfield lights come on?

Does the game score?

Can you play for extra balls?

Install a tilt, fix your anti-cheat issue (unless you want it on free play), and you're probably there! Cool!

Ha-ha, posted before you posted the search disc image! Wowee! Needs a clean.

You're correct about removing the glass. It works more like woodrail machines than later bingos or the earlier one balls, so you unscrew the retaining screws, the top molding comes off, then the glass slides up.

The image can easily be scraped away as you slide, so Bally came up with a different setup just a year later, which basically stuck until the mid 70s.

Most of the maintenance necessary will not need the panel dropped on this game, since it is so short. Everything is fairly accessible. Then again, I'm not certain that the backboard even drops...

So. If the game is not starting and the lamps are not lighting, check your anti-cheat. Also, there should be a trip relay for tilt. It will not allow you to reset it if the timer is at the 40th step. Reset the timer, then try and manually lift the tilt relay. Does the game start moving?

No playfield lights and no ball lifter sounds very much like fuse issues to me. Stupid question, but have you checked the playfield lights to ensure they are not burned out? Holding the anti-cheat closed should definitely light the playfield lamps if the Jones Plugs are inserted correctly (and clean), and the fuses and holders are working properly.

I am not certain of the values of fuses you should have. I don't think they should all be 8A. That seems odd. Disclaimer: I've had my head in a Coney Island, but never worked on one seriously.

You could also put the head onto the lift, then lower it to give you room to extract the glass.

So to get it moving, you'll need to check the following:
1) Timer Unit. There is a switch located on the timer that needs checking as it is in line with most of the gameplay circuits. It is open at the last step only.
2) Ball count unit - at this time, Bally had a separate unit to keep track of balls played.
3) Tilt Relay - it may be stuck down, not opening/closing switches appropriately. Not sure if it is a trip or normal relay in this game. I assume trip, but I don't see a bank reset solenoid or motor. Might just be a normal relay.

Just looked at the Coney Island manual - my gosh - this is the most user-friendly manual I think I've ever read!

It shows what each switch pair does on each unit - with pics of the physical device. Be sure to read the page about the timer unit and ball count unit carefully as this will likely answer any further questions about startup.

http://bingo.cdyn.com/machines/bally/coney_island/resources/manual-coney_island.pdf

When you put in a credit, the selection relay fires once, and the timer and ball count units should reset.

Question #1: is all that happening?

Looks like the shutter is activating the tilt. Normally in a bingo, tilting while the shutter is open will cause it to close. Looks OK to me, but

Q #2: how does it look when the shutter is in the other position?

It certainly appears to be. Whether it is bound or otherwise in trouble is a different story, but switch and cam config appears correct. The shutter motor design changed dramatically over the years. I heavily suspect his ball count unit since that controls so much of the startup sequence, and he mentioned it was gunked up. Shutter motor will wait till that unit (and the timer) are verified good.

Ah, that's an excellent point.

Lamps are chained together serially. You have a dead bulb one one or more of the cards in the #8 position or a bad wire on a Jones plug.

If shutter moves, shutter motor is OK.

If the ball count unit will not fire, check you manual to see what fires it - something is not providing adequate power. Should have 50v.

You're correct, the ball count unit is a step-up/step-down stepper and not a step up/reset stepper.

Sometimes a rough looking rivet will conduct ok if you adjust the wiper arm slightly into a different position. If you are to repair, use a dab of silver solder (heating the rivet from below). Do not use regular lead/lead-free solder. You will need the tensile strength and better conducting properties of silver solder. Note that you will likely have to desolder the wire connected to the rivet to do this. I suspect that it is conducting ok, since your lifter functions when you depress the pin to close the switch.

The pin under the lifter can be hard to adjust sometimes. Occasionally, the problem is actually the lifter cam/arm. It will not travel all the way down, allowing the ball to rest on the pin. There should be a set screw adjustment about midway up the arm of the lifter. Loosen this, then tighten in a different position. If the other problem happens (overtravel), do the same thing. Expect another 20 minutes of farting.

You've already verified the rest of the lifter circuit, so your lifter problem should be resolved when that arm drops the ball into the right spot.

This is a guess, but an educated one - Bally would use this type of stepper in various games later on, but the reset signal would push in both solenoids, resetting it to the default position, since neither ratchet is engaged. Once at zero position, it disengages both.

That's one way to handle it, but since you have a control unit that is in constant rotation, you could also step that unit down 5 or 8 times rather quickly with a single control unit switch on the appropriate timing cam.

I'd have to look at the schematic to see how it really works.