If it has a disc style rectifier on top of the transformer, you're probably going to want to replace that with a modern silicon variety. Fuse one side of the AC input, too. The original rectifiers look neat, but they usually get worse and worse at their job (more and more AC voltage slips onto the DC line) until they fail catastrophically.

I wonder if the pop bumper skirts would flatten back out if you sandwich them between a couple pieces of glass and stick them in the sun.

The rectifier wiring should be pretty simple. Here is Clay's picture of it:

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/genco1.jpg

It's not identical to yours, but the same strategy should apply. The two outer wires from the transformer to your old rectifier are the AC lines, the middle line should be positive DC and the lug on the side of the rectifier should be negative DC. The new rectifier should have two corners labeled ~ that get the AC wires hooked to them (makes no difference which goes where), and one corner a piece labeled + and -. They get the + DC and - DC wires attached to them, respectively. You want to disconnect the AC and positive DC lines from the old rectifier altogether.

This thread ( http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/forum/index.php?topic=1304.0 ) suggests the "Start" lug is the common, so it would get the neutral wire and the hot wire would go to one of the voltage inputs. I'd say high tapping it at 125 isn't really necessary since it's going to be DC rectified. I'd probably put it at 115 or 105.

Hmm. It would seem to make sense to put it on terminal 4. If the timer switch is closed, then it keeps neutral connected to Start. When the timer drops out, that connection drops out too. Do the wires to the coin door go to a start button/coin mech switch?

Just taking a guess, I'd say it goes on 4. The game is totally dead until you close whatever switch on the coin door wakes it up. It comes to life momentarily, long enough to engage the timer, which holds on the game through 4 and 6 on the terminal. When the timer runs out, the switch opens, neutral is disconnected, and the whole game would go dead.

Do you happen to know if the timer is for sure original? Clay always seems to be removing timers from games in this era, where they were added by operators to keep people moving along.

Oh, also, in case my description of hooking up the rectifier wasn't good enough, here is a Microsoft Paint illustration.

Genco to Modern Rectifier Modification

Obviously, you don't have to cut the wires where I put "Cut" just desoldering them will suffice.

If you put a meter lead on the one lug by itself and touch the other lead to each of the other three lugs and negative DC lead on the chassis, one at a time, one pair should give you 6VAC.

On further reflection, it should be one of the AC lines. Here is another MS Paint special illustrating it. Two AC wires go together to give the AC voltage that the rectifier turns into DC to drive the solenoids. The one AC wire by itself and one of the other two AC lines gives you your six volts AC for the lights.

diagram for argentine (resized).png

Gah, you're right. You are short a wire for that. Hmm. Well, I guess it's back to testing the wires with your meter.

You could also check for continuity between the wires going to one of the lightbulbs. I see one side of the light socket going to that lone lug on the transformer. Where does the other side go? Find that out and you know what to hook back up to get back the lights.

If you check for continuity between the other side of the lightbulb and the four wires on the new rectifier, are any of them connected?

Just bad bulbs. Hilarious. Well, at least it's working now. Keep us updated on your progress.

I would think that it's a match unit. Since it's on a continuous stepper, just like later match units, and the numbers correspond to the first four digits of the lowest to the highest possible scores. Are the hidden numbers lit up all the time, though, rather than just in Game Over?

If it has no regular credit unit, I imagine it would make no sense to have a match feature, since it can't award free games to anything. If it has a knockoff button, then you are probably on to the solution.