It's hard to tell from the picture, but this looks like the type of Jones plug with hollow pins. If so, you can re-solder each wire by heating the outside of a pin with a solder iron until the solder is molten, and then pushing the wire down into the pin. This will often eject the old (broken) bit of wire from the front end of the pin, but it doesn't matter if the old broken wire stays inside the pin. You may also want to add some fresh solder to the inside of the pin when re-soldering. Of course you want to avoid getting any solder on the outside surface of any pin.

Also FYI, the entire backbox insert (the plywood rectangle that all the parts are mounted on) should be removable without too much effort. Just speaking from my own experience, the 10 minutes or so you spend removing/replacing the insert are definitely worth it. It's much easier to do this much re-soldering at a workbench, rather than while the insert is in the machine.

- TimMe

From what I can tell, you are missing at least one or two important pieces, including an arm that is used to actuate the switch stack mounted to the back side of the door. Here is a pic of a coin slide from a late 1940s Gottlieb machine, but I would think your game should be very similar:

coin-slide_(resized).jpg

In the pic, the slide has been pushed in part way. As you can see there is a large metal piece that has an arm that operates the switches. There are a few reasons for those switches. The main reason is to turn off the power to the free-play coil so that the coil is only energized when you start to push in the slide. Another common usage is to disable the knock-off button under the cabinet on those games that have a knock-off feature.

You also seem to be missing most of the "back end" of your slide - note how much longer the GTB slide is than yours. This would explain why your slide isn't contacting the shutter under the PF.

The projection bulbs from this era of game were usually #1129. This is a six-volt lamp pulling a whopping 2.5 amps. It's really too bright to look at when lit.

- TimMe

As for the wipers on the stepper unit, I've never seen them like that, but I suppose it might be factory. I think you need to replace the existing wipers and use wipers that have contact points on them, regardless of whether the current setup is factory or not. The grooves cut into the rivets look pretty nasty in the pic, and are likely to cause trouble for making good contact.

As for the 1K reset, it's normal for that stepper to be continuous (forward stepping only). In this era of game, the score reset usually worked as follows. The 10K unit reset to a "-1" position, and in this position it activated a circuit that would repeatedly step the 1K score stepper forward until that caused a carry on the 10K unit. As soon as the 10K unit stepped up from -1 to zero, the 1K stepping circuit would be de-activated, and that would leave both score steppers sitting at zero.

- TimMe.