Quoted from EM-PINMAN:

1956 Gottlieb Classy Bowler Fully Shopped. New Pop Bumpers and Flippers Rebuilt. Bumper caps are original and still have the original bodies set aside. Backglass touched up and sealed. Half a dozen broken wires from old solder joints,replaced some light sockets, needed 6 coils and had a couple feedback shorts from them I had to track down but getting closer to that 100% working status. Waiting for the last round of parts. Super fun nudgers delight game.

Quoted from fletcherOH:

Ina and Peter Hoebert http://www.petereninaspeelautomaten.com/intro.html
» YouTube video

Quoted from nomo:

Can anyone give me advice how to create a stencil, or finding a stencil to recreate the paint job?

Quoted from pacmanretro:

I assume these are 1/8 MDF like dr_nybble mentioned? Just crurious how you placed stencils for slight bleed (and I know there are other threads on painting, just since you mentioned it...) did you lay cabinet over and set stencils? Or just hold close in one hand and spray with other??

Quoted from pacmanretro:

Cool. Thanks for the pic. Didn't realize you actually clamped it down even! I believe 6mm would be close to 1/4 inch for me. Makes sense what you are saying about being a bit more rigid for cutting. I appreciate the extra insight.

Quoted from jrpinball:

"Gypsy Queen" backglass is done.
It took all of about ten minutes to do it.
Woodrail glasses are easy because there is only the replay window to mask. Now I can touch up the minor issues it has after letting it dry thoroughly for a couple of days.

Quoted from DCRand:

Re triple thicking back glass. Leaning toward doing it because it does have flaws, including one scratch, in the black parts that I would like to touch up. And thinking that touching up on the back side of triple thick is safer than trying to touch up directly on the glass. Also, the wood light panel is rubbing in a few places, and going to use felt spacers on the face of the wood to protect the glass. Would rather have the felt resting on the TT than on the glass.

Quoted from BallyCrazy:

My Aquacade United before restoration :
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After
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A lot of fun !

Quoted from Gotemwill:

Here are some photos of my 1948 Exhibit Supply ‘New Contact’. It was converted to have flippers at some point early in its life but otherwise remains original down to its coin box. A real survivor and not a game you see very often.
I never had a game with the spring compression bumpers before but they are very snappy similar to if they were DC powered. The original flyer calls them “explosion kickers” that “give action and thrilling suspense as never before”.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from tfduda:

Questions about repainting a woodrail cabinet: Does anyone have recommendations and a good method for painting circles?
https://www.krylon.com/products/satin-finish/

For cabinet repaints I take a tracing of the cab then transfer the trace to mdf board and cutout with a jigsaw. In the case of circles I use either an appropriately sized forstner bit or speedbore or holesaw to create the circle in the board ready for spraying. The circles on this method are the easiest part of the process.

Quoted from Hyperball91:

Well, I guess I can save you the trouble DCRand...what do you think of this? Look close enough? I think I got her hair and nose right...and the missing piece of course.
This is just a preview png, my original tif is much larger if you like it and decide to print it.
~ Mal ~[quoted image]

Quoted from tomcons:

To follow up, I got a decent scan of the Genco Three Feathers to work from, so here's the completed art. The grey shows the areas where the glass will be silvered.
Now I'm looking for some help in restoring the art for a '51 Williams Shoot The Moon. This glass has been chipped and shattered by kids who used it for target practice with a bb gun as well as throwing at it with the steel balls. I need a couple of good hi-res pics of the girls on the left and the lower right corner. The pics available on line at IPDB and other sites don't have the needed resolution. Anybody with this game that can help out? It'll be much appreciated.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from oldcarz:

Hi,
I had, but sold a few months ago, a nice original Joker. As some of you may know from my history, I am a fan of the 50's woodrails. Generally speaking, the early woodrails are slower and more "difficult" than the 60's/70's games to which you may be most familiar. The reverse flippers on some, including the Joker, takes some getting used to.
I set my tilt to very liberal and allow the games to be shaken. Part of the necessary strategy on these games is to be able to nudge them, and I have tilted a few games in my video attempts.
The Joker backglass is one of my favorite art glasses. I also have a nice repro glass from BG resto on my wall. In short, I would recommend the game!
Here's a brief video of game play from a few months ago:
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Quoted from Mopar:

One quick question. On the Rocket Ship, the 10,000's Unit was a mess. I got all the cobbed up
springs straightened out, and some of the EM arcade stuff has the same stepper bell, but on the
10,000's Unit bell, does the end of the arm that strikes the bell suppose to have a round metal
washer type item attached to it and makes contact with the bell itself? The end of the arm is striking the
bell and it rings, but there's a hole at the end of the arm as if something was once riveted onto it that
perhaps makes contact with the bell. Seems like machines with Stepper Bells that I've went through
had a circular metal or nylon type washer attached to the end of the arm..
Can anyone confirm? Thanks in advance..

Quoted from wayner:

Although the bg provides provision for 'Game Over' on Rocket Ship a light was not included in production however there is a simple reversible solution to include the light. Will take a pic and post.

Quoted from tfduda:

I had what sounds like a similar problem on an earlier Gottlieb and the culprit was a spring on the 100k stepper. In my machine's case, it was happening when 500k should have been awarded--as the stepper was stepping up each of the five steps, it would occasionally "double step" on a step. At the time it was happening, I wasn't sure if the step up coil was getting too many pulses (i.e., an electrical issue) or if it was the stepper causing the problem (i.e., a mechanical issue). I ultimately figured it out by recording a video of the 100k stepper during the awarding of 500k and could then see on the slowed down video that the armature on the stepper was "bouncing" and stepping up more than once every now and then. Either I replaced the main spring (largest if I remember right) on the armature or attached the spring so that it was a tad bit tighter--at least this solved my machine's problem and I haven't seen it since.
Good luck!

Quoted from tfduda:

Crazy Ball (1948, CCM) is recently up and running with just a few additional details to work out (that aren't related to game play--e.g., wiring on coin door for coin chute relay and game counter). Getting it working again was pretty straightforward, but not having a schematic felt like working without a net.
The machine features a "spinning bumper" that shoots the ball around the playfield or gives the ball a tremendous spin. Chicago Coin first used this with Spinball (which came out in May of 1948, Crazy-Ball came out in July) but then not again until 1973 with Hee Haw (albeit with a different style).
Principal objective is to hit the C, R, A, Z, Y bumpers (in order) to lite the "extra special hole" (for five replays!). Otherwise replays are won via certain scores.
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The rubber on the spinning bumper was hard and misshapen, but I was able to make a replacement.
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The spinning bumper is controlled by a small motor on bottom of playfield that is run via a separate, smaller transformer in the cabinet and options of different voltages for controlling speed. It took a bit of effort to get the motor clean and working smoothly and quietly.
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Will try to record a video of gameplay.