Similar to Yuma Arizona too: https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=87
If I recall correctly those extra tall rebound rubbers at the bottom are there because the kickout holes launch the ball into them. See https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=87&picno=34006&zoom=1

/Mark

Shorter #55 bulbs were sometimes used in pop bumpers to move the filament away from the bumper cap. It helped keep the cap a bit cooler and may have avoided the common burn spot on the underside of the cap. Cooler #47 bulbs are another option.

From what I recall those are #7 nickel plated oval head sloted wood screws. Steve Young got hold of a few not long ago but I don't see them on his website any more. I think I've found shorter versions of the right size (#7) before but that's as close as I've found. They would probably look ok but they wouldn't hold the playfield in place. #6 and #8 are more common and might be close enough.

Yeah, I was thinking of #51 bulbs, not #55 bulbs. It looks like #55s would work, but #51s are what I've seen and used.

This might work better in its own topic...

Does the Reset relay fire? It looks like the Reset relay should fire when the 100k unit resets to 0. The Reset relay then fires the Start Latch relay which I think should cut power to the 100k reset solenoid.

/Mark

That's the only switch that can fire the Reset relay. Does the Reset relay fire if you jumper around the switch (from the yellow wire to the white-blue wire)?

Continuity doesn't tell you much in this case. If you unplug the game and clip your probes to the yellow and white-blue wires on either side of that 100k closed at zero switch, some meters will tell you there's continuity even if the switch is open.
Golden Bells Reset relay (resized).jpg
The reason is that there is another path through the Reset relay coil, fuse and transformer. Continuity just means there's a low resistance (usually less than 20-40 ohms) path between the probes. If you check the resistance between those wires instead you'll read something like 25-40 ohms through the coil and transformer but an ohm or less if the path is going through the switch. Which is it?

If you can jumper from the solder lug on the Reset relay coil with the white-blue wire to the yellow wire and the Reset relay doesn't fire the coil may be open. Otherwise there's probably a problem getting through the 100k unit.

Are you sure that's the right switch? There are apparently at least two:
Golden Bells 100k switches (resized).jpg
The first one (that you're looking for) looks to me to be a wiper on a contact board. The second one looks more like a plain old switch. What does the label behind the switch say?

The schematic is a little confusing because it refers to an Advance Unit and a Selection Unit but I think they're the same thing. Basically though I think that the lights in the triangles advance as you hit playfield targets. They indicate which bell will light if you hit a Spot target. It's similar to Magic City/Town or likely many other games.

The triangle lights advance when you hit any of the 8 playfield advance switches or the center pop bumper.
A bell next to the lit triangle will light when either
- a right spotting switch or the right eject hole is activated OR
- a left spotting switch or the left eject hole is activated (these two alternate - only the lit set of switches will work)

The flyer on IPDB.com describes when specials are awarded. There are also credits awarded for a match or replay level.

Chicago Express has an elevated track modeled after the elevated trains in Chicago
https://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=503&picno=46741&zoom=1

From the '60 Gottlieb Parts Catalog:
Step Switch Bell Arm (resized).jpg
/Mark

This discussion might belong in its own topic, but here's part of the Dancing Dolls schematic (made a couple of months later) and some answers.
Dancing Dolls coin chute (resized).jpg
On the coin door the Coin Chute switch (in red) should connect the orange and blue wires.

The Anti-Cheat switch (in red, bottom left) and Bounce switch both need to be closed for power to get into the transformer.

The R relay switch (in red, left side) also keeps power running into the transformer. The R relay coil (in red, top) is always on and often looks toasted. But unless you desoldered one of the solder lugs the .4 ohm is likely the resistance of the transformer and not the R coil. Either way the R relay coil in Dancing Dolls is an A-3498 which should have a resistance of about 30 ohms.

The important point though is that nearly everything you're asking about is between the plug and the transformer and is running at 120 volts so I would advise unplugging the game before poking around any of it.

/Mark

Bally did this for a while (on On Beam for example: https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1715&picno=58884) but I didn't realize that Gottlieb ever had. Now I wonder if Williams or anyone else ever did. Thanks Garrett for sharing.

Excellent. Someone (Harry Williams?) figured out how to hold a flipper up presumably before three lug, dual winding flipper coils were available. I wonder who figured this out first.

/Mark

Looking through some old schematics I found:

12/51 Williams Horse Shoes (a Harry Williams design) used what looks like two separate coils:
Horse Shoes flipper coil (resized).jpg

3/52 Genco Springtime used what looks like a dual winding flipper coil:
Springtime flipper coil (resized).jpg

5/52 Williams Olympics (a Harry Mabs design) used a single winding flipper coil: (Maybe Harry liked impulse flippers?)
Olympics flipper coil (resized).jpg

But way back in 11/49 Gottlieb K.C. Jones used dual winding flipper coils:
KC Jones flippers (resized).jpg