(Topic ID: 127724)

Woodrail Pinballs

By PinballFever

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,793 posts
  • 188 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by o-din
  • Topic is favorited by 85 Pinsiders

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#318 7 years ago

Always hated clowns... first and only circus I took my son to when he was a small lad... he hated the clowns at the show, and now thinks they're just creepy... nonetheless that's a nice lookin' game ya got there!

#358 7 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Looking for an original ball gate plastic if anyone has one?

What's wrong with the plastic, I can't see the issue.

3 years later
#992 4 years ago
Quoted from Matesamo:

Not bad for $60 a machine, but man what a strange way to try and move them. 125 Woodrail machines for 7,500 (plus $1,200 shipping if needed).[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Jack bought a nice Globe Trotter from me back in 2012... very nice example. Not sure if his better games are in that lot of 125, but if they are, that price is a dead steal. Would be great to walk through and check his games out for sure.

3 months later
#1119 4 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

All original but I did hear you can retro fit which I agree would be better. It’s very cool especially with the animation but hard to flip to the top
Here is some pics. I got it from a pinball league buddy and it appears to be in good shape for the year
https://photos.app.goo.gl/D4fPWue5epQoEs6M6

I've done two retrofits, one on a United game, and one I just completed for a Keeney Poker Face pin... both of those had impulse setups. If you do decide to retrofit, it's important to get a dual wound coil that's just the right power.. Steve Young is a good resource to help pare down which dual wound coil is best for your woodrail... there are also a few good sites that have power ratings in OHMS for coils of different manufacturers... this was very helpful in my determination of which coil to use for the Poker Face.

https://www.pinballmedic.net/coilchart.html

https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

1 month later
#1126 3 years ago
Quoted from hawkeye11:

What says you? Should I fire up the hair drier or dust off the pipettes?
I have had alot of success over the years with the hair dryer method.

I've done both. In your case if you do try the hair dry method, if those inserts with graphics aren't coming out easily (and definitely use a round socket just small enough to fit the hole) I'd use the FILL method. No reason taking chances. I've done a lot of insert removal, and have broken a few in my haste to remove them. Take your time, and be sure to heat from both sides. I've also used a heat gun, but not recommending that for first time use.

2 months later
#1176 3 years ago
Quoted from tomcons:

Inks fade in different ways. Generally due to UV exposure over time.
Red can go orange, or fade out to tan.
Orange can go yellow (as yours has), or fade out to tan.
Blue and blue green can go green.
Purple can go more blue.
Schematics for United games are really hard to find. But yeah, PBR is the place to check.

From what I see, that's not fade...it's too uniform throughout all the letters, plus the other red inks on that glass aren't faded at all. l

1 year later
#1456 2 years ago
Quoted from Mopar:

Well, a bit rainy today, so I went through the head of Nags. One of the race track's
perches was loose, so I glued that and will be putting the head's components back in
before long..
Also got the main Pony standing on it's 4 legs..
[quoted image][quoted image]

All time classic game... I remember hanging out in an arcade in Ocean City Maryland, mid-70s. Spent hours playing games like Big Indian, Sheriff, NOW, Bow & Arrow, Magnotron, and so many other pins from the era.. and there sits NAGS 20+ years after it came out, still collecting for the operator. At that time, every game was well maintained including NAGS... still played great! Nice blast from the past... your game looks like it's going to look spiffy clean, thanks for posting your game.

4 weeks later
#1535 2 years ago
Quoted from tfduda:

A couple of questions about impulse flippers...
1. Aside from Williams, were there other manufacturers that featured them on their machines? I believe I recall that Genco had them, but don't know for sure.
2. Are all impulse flippers operated by pressing either flipper button or are there some machines with impulse flippers that are independently operated by separate buttons?
3. When did Williams' impulse flippers finally disappear? Clay mentions on his pinrepair site that they went away in mid-1955 (i.e., "Luckily by mid-1955, Williams had sobered up and replaced the impulse flipper with a standard Gottlieb-style flipper design," http://www.pinrepair.com/wmswood/), but which machine was the last to have them (or which was the first not to have them)?
Below are the machines that ipdb lists as being produced by Williams in 1955:
1955-03 Peter Pan
1955-03 Race the Clock
1955-04 Poker Alley
1955-04 Wonderland
1955-05 Band Wagon
1955-05 Smoke Signal
1955-05 Three Deuces
1955-08 Can Can
1955-08 Circus Wagon
1955-08 Regatta
1955-08 Snafu
There is a youtube video of Smoke Signal (May 1955 production) that gives the impression that it had non-impulse flippers (and they're independently operated by separate buttons), but it's hard to know whether or not the machine was retrofitted with them.

I'm bringing a Keeney Poker Face ('63) to York that came factory with the impulse design. Each flipper had two coils, a "flip" and "drop out" coil. This was Keeney's last impulse flipper game, as their next-in-line off production - Colorama - sported the dual wound configuration that we're all accustomed to today. I reconfigured the game with dual wound Bally coils that closely matched the originals in ohm/voltage rating and the game is so much more enjoyable.

Now that I'm thinking about it, Poker Face is probably the last pin game with an impulse flipper design!

1 year later
#1728 1 year ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Yikes! Big, big project. Hopefully you find someone with the resources and dedication to get one working game out of that mess.
Man, I don't know. Maybe tops, around $600 or so for everything there for anyone brave enough to take it on, and that's mostly because of the new parts and backglass included.

Was thinking on the same lines, 600 looks like a real generous estimate on that... you are talking hundreds of hours building one decent game out of that.

#1729 1 year ago
Quoted from Dono:

Was thinking on the same lines, 600 looks like a real generous estimate on that... you are talking hundreds of hours building one decent game out of it.

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