(Topic ID: 127724)

Woodrail Pinballs

By PinballFever

6 years ago


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There are 1,579 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 32.
#1251 1 year ago

I have a 1948 United Paradise. It is missing the left side rail. I have a 1948 Exhibit parts machine. The rails look identical besides the Exhibit being longer. I want to remove it from the Exhibit and attach to the United. How do I go about taking off the side rail? Best way to reattach? Thanks!

#1252 1 year ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

I have a 1948 United Paradise. It is missing the left side rail. I have a 1948 Exhibit parts machine. The rails look identical besides the Exhibit being longer. I want to remove it from the Exhibit and attach to the United. How do I go about taking off the side rail? Best way to reattach? Thanks!

I just sawed them off with my dremel and glued them to my new cab.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-rocket-flipperless-restoration/page/2#post-4877705

#1253 1 year ago
Quoted from tomcons:

The backbox glass and playfield glass are my repros, on plexiglass.

These look great!

#1254 1 year ago

Did you use the dremel from both sides? Or just the side or top? Don't suppose you took any pics while you were doing it?

#1255 1 year ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

Did you use the dremel from both sides? Or just the side or top? Don't suppose you took any pics while you were doing it?

I used the semi-circular saw on the dremel multi tool and cut it from the outside then sanded the bottom sawed rough edge to clean it up. Let the edge of the cabinet guide the saw, kind of like fileting a fish it that makes sense. The blade cut right through the nail also. I then put the glass in to get the spacing right and then you can see in the thread I linked how i used the straps to pull the wood down and hold until the glue dried. Turned out great and was pretty easy.

737316C4-63FD-405C-9E43-99ACDE70B87E (resized).jpeg
#1256 1 year ago

If there is a lip on the outside, after you cut youll be able to chisel away any strip of wood from the cabinet still attached to the rail that might need to be removed from the rail. It'll make more sense after you cut the rail off.

#1257 1 year ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

If there is a lip on the outside, after you cut youll be able to chisel away any strip of wood from the cabinet still attached to the rail that might need to be removed from the rail. It'll make more sense after you cut the rail off.

Thank you sir!

#1258 1 year ago

I am looking for a lockdown bar for my ‘54 Gottlieb Stagecoach. Based on the difference in the finish from the siderails, I think it has been replaced at some point. The fit is also not great as pictured and wobbles unless it is really tightened down.

If anyone has a nice original with the lighter lacquered finish that matches my side rails, please let me know. Would also trade if someone is looking for what I have.

803351A6-7ED2-4C15-B81B-4E929F47FF9B (resized).jpegBBDDBBDD-FA81-4959-A74E-68CBE074AF6F (resized).jpegE2EAC85B-5F53-4136-AF23-0240824E14F6 (resized).jpeg
#1259 1 year ago

Do these types of targets have a specific name and does anyone know where I can get some? I’d like to get the original logos, but will take unmarked generics if that’s my only option.

253F5B23-A0B0-4F11-A0AD-64E5A0BC4213 (resized).jpeg
#1260 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Do these types of targets have a specific name and does anyone know where I can get some? I’d like to get the original logos, but will take unmarked generics if that’s my only option.

Stud targets, look towards the bottom of this page....

http://www.pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm

Could buy plain white and try to paint or the bell.

#1261 1 year ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

Stud targets, look towards the bottom of this page....
http://www.pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm
Could buy plain white and try to paint or the bell.

Perfect, thanks!

#1262 1 year ago
Quoted from Gotemwill:

I am looking for a lockdown bar for my ‘54 Gottlieb Stagecoach.

I don't have one but that lockdown bar looks similar to the one on my Williams Grand Champion. Maybe you can make a new one?

#1263 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballFever:

I don't have one but that lockdown bar looks similar to the one on my Williams Grand Champion. Maybe you can make a new one?

Pinball Resource makes new ones so I would go that route if I had to but I would like to find an original to match the patina of the game.

Still looking.

18
#1264 1 year ago

Decided to keep my Quintette. Was for sale...but made room by putting a Fooseball for sale
Too nice to let go! Moved some stuff around, and now it’s cemented in place in the game room.
Just can’t find originals like this, so I’ll keep playing, and getting beat down, by all those gobble holes

BBCCCCED-83A1-4E65-9195-BD33F00F1D14 (resized).jpeg
#1265 1 year ago
Quoted from Blutarsky:

My Lightning Ball came with a post guarding each gobble hole. Maybe a grandfather sought to help out the grand kids? BTW Lightning Ball is one wonderful game. Too bad the backglass gal looks like a refugee from a funhouse mirror!

FTA: I have 18 GTB woodrails and wedgeheads in my stash split about evenly. I'm probably left of center on this but two woodies are my favs...Lightning Ball and Rocket Ship.

#1266 1 year ago

Anyone interested in a 1958 Gottlieb Picnic? Currently in a project state but had it flipping at one time (when Nic Schell did his pinball tour). BGResto back glass has been acquired but not installed. Contact me for details if interested...

#1267 1 year ago
Quoted from presqueisle:

Decided to keep my Quintette. Was for sale...but made room by putting a Fooseball for sale
Too nice to let go! Moved some stuff around, and now it’s cemented in place in the game room.
Just can’t find originals like this, so I’ll keep playing, and getting beat down, by all those gobble holes
[quoted image]

You have great taste! I’ve been admiring the games you’ve been selling and wishing I was closer!

#1268 1 year ago
Quoted from presqueisle:

Decided to keep my Quintette. Was for sale...but made room by putting a Fooseball for sale
Too nice to let go! Moved some stuff around, and now it’s cemented in place in the game room.
Just can’t find originals like this, so I’ll keep playing, and getting beat down, by all those gobble holes
[quoted image]

A beaut! Sure would go nicely next to my Quartette, if you're ever thinking of selling again.

#1269 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

types of targets have a specific name

Your Golden Bells Right side plastic has faded to pink, just like one of my games.

1 week later
#1270 1 year ago
Quoted from Gotemwill:

I am looking for a lockdown bar for my ‘54 Gottlieb Stagecoach. If anyone has a nice original with the lighter lacquered finish that matches my side rails, please let me know. Would also trade if someone is looking for what I have. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Still looking!

1 week later
#1271 1 year ago

Here's a Harbor Lites and a great deal for someone in eastern Michigan. Not mine and I already have one.
detroit.craigslist.org link

#1272 1 year ago
Quoted from waltrr:

Here's a Harbor Lites and a great deal for someone in eastern Michigan. Not mine and I already have one.
detroit.craigslist.org link

In my opinion one of the top 5 Gottlieb woodrails. Excellent artwork and such a great player. If I didn't already have one I would be all over this.

#1273 1 year ago

The add is now gone, it must have been sold, anybody here grab a great deal on a great machine?
I've had mine for about 20 years and it's not going anywhere.

#1274 1 year ago

I have zero expierence with wood rails but always thought they look cool. There's a Poker Face at a local auction this weekend. Current bid is $500 cdn. Thoughts? Things to look out for? The pics provided aren't the best. Might have a friend check it out in person for me.

39138424_1.jpg39138424_2m.jpg39138424_3.jpg
#1275 1 year ago
Quoted from waltrr:

The add is now gone, it must have been sold, anybody here grab a great deal on a great machine?
I've had mine for about 20 years and it's not going anywhere.

I picked up the Harbor Lites! The owner got it from his grandparents' basement. It had apparently been there since the 1960s as there was a hand-written for sale notice taped to the back of the coindoor that was dated Dec. 4, 1966. He said that his grandparents had purchased it from a local bowling alley way back when and that he remembers playing it as a boy.

It looks to be all intact and the backglass is in great shape, but the plastics are shot (and luckily available as reproductions!) and someone used rubber bands for rubber rings and attached masking tape to cover the gobble hole (I think I remember someone picking up one recently that had duct tape covering the gobble hole). The cabinet either has a thick coating of tar and nicotine on it or someone applied some lacquer or varnish to it and so the white paint is a light brown. And then an odd thing is that a piece of wood was put in the back of the cabinet to form an interior wall to separate the rear part of the cabinet under the backbox from the rest of the cabinet--perhaps this was a hidey-hole!--the only things it had in it were a bag of old rubber rings and a bunch of spent matches!

#1276 1 year ago

I have picked up a few Gottlieb woodrails and many (but not all) have what appears to be a haphazardly applied coating of lacquer or varnish applied to the playfield. I assume that it may have been applied to protect the paint, but the material has usually yellowed (or browned) through the years and often looks like crap now (although perhaps it helped preserve the paint and so I shouldn't be too upset). See image of a Hit'n'Run playfield below.

It looks like the material was applied without removing any playfield components and tends to cover sides of flipper bats, posts, rollovers, and edges of bumper skirts and sometimes even is found on the plastic bottoms of kick-out holes (though is absent under bumper skirts, plastics, etc.). It also looks like it was applied with a brush given what appear to be brush marks (which are kind of visible around home plate in the photo below).

Was this factory? I'd be surprised if it was given that not all playfields have it and the factory surely could have done it before the playfield was already populated. But the consistency in the style of application (haphazard, without removal of playfield components, brush marks) suggests that it was all done the same way.

Thanks for any insight!

IMG_1062 (resized).jpeg
#1277 1 year ago
Quoted from dirkdiggler:

I have zero expierence with wood rails but always thought they look cool. There's a Poker Face at a local auction this weekend. Current bid is $500 cdn. Thoughts? Things to look out for? The pics provided aren't the best. Might have a friend check it out in person for me.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Backglass and plastics have been reproduced for this game. The legs on that one are not original it should have wood legs. Poker Face is a good game but gobble holes are not for everyone. Similar to Queen of Hearts. If you buy it and need plastics and score cards hit me up I believe I have both.

#1278 1 year ago
Quoted from dirkdiggler:

I have zero expierence with wood rails but always thought they look cool. There's a Poker Face at a local auction this weekend. Current bid is $500 cdn. Thoughts? Things to look out for? The pics provided aren't the best. Might have a friend check it out in person for me.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wrong coin door as well.

The red legs are pretty rare non ribbed - Gottlieb only made them for about a year. Easy to sell and get correct 31 inch wooden legs.

Not played Poker Face but people seem to really enjoy it.

image-13 (resized).jpg
#1279 1 year ago

Rare to find one with the original front door. Most have the generic one with the concentric rectangles. If the one you show is your game, consider yourself lucky.
I don't think I've seen one yet (until now) with the correct coin door.
The legs are likely Williams woodrail legs. Non-ribbed, painted red.

#1280 1 year ago

PS. Thanks for the photo. Now I know how to paint mine when the time comes!

#1281 12 months ago
Quoted from tfduda:

Was this factory?

From my limited experience, it seems there was a misguided era of “restoration/preservation” where people unfortunately used oil based Polly on the playfields. The factory lacquer will of course yellow over time, but nowhere near the levels I’ve seen in some games. Having multiple games from the same years and manufacturers, it’s clear the extremely yellowed playfields were done by owners. I’m sure it looked nice at the time, but even after just a couple years, with an oil based clear, the yellowing would be substantial. Add a decade or two to the mix and you get this...

My question is, has anyone successfully been able to remove a yellowed Polly topcoat without removing the paint?? I can see the beautiful colors under there.. magic eraser and a meditative level of care and patience??

The “tan” painted areas on this game are supposed to be white, and the rest of the colors are equally tinted.

9C5BD5AA-2233-4674-AE28-8ED0ED4E0E71 (resized).jpeg
#1282 12 months ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

PS. Thanks for the photo. Now I know how to paint mine when the time comes!

Well, I just checked, and the ipdb photo shows the correct front door as well.

#1283 12 months ago
Quoted from BeachPickle:

From my limited experience, it seems there was a misguided era of “restoration/preservation” where people unfortunately used oil based Polly on the playfields. The factory lacquer will of course yellow over time, but nowhere near the levels I’ve seen in some games. Having multiple games from the same years and manufacturers, it’s clear the extremely yellowed playfields were done by owners. I’m sure it looked nice at the time, but even after just a couple years, with an oil based clear, the yellowing would be substantial. Add a decade or two to the mix and you get this...
My question is, has anyone successfully been able to remove a yellowed Polly topcoat without removing the paint?? I can see the beautiful colors under there.. magic eraser and a meditative level of care and patience??
The “tan” painted areas on this game are supposed to be white, and the rest of the colors are equally tinted.
[quoted image]

''

I have had 0 luck without damaging the paint underneath. I'm working on a Minstrel Man now that has what might be a shellac coating on the playfield that has yellowed, I'm going to have to live with it. Also have a few more the same, I tried to do my Easy Aces white, now I'll have to air brush it back in. I give up.

#1284 12 months ago
Quoted from BeachPickle:

The “tan” painted areas on this game are supposed to be white, and the rest of the colors are equally tinted.

Don't bother trying to bring the color back to white. Leave it the way it is. Looks fine. Just clean it up and wax it.

#1285 12 months ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Leave it the way it is. Looks fine. Just clean it up and wax it.

Yah that’s probably not in the cards for me. I’m a graphic artist, and am drawn to the artwork almost as much as the gameplay.

You can see the nice vibrant colors hiding out underneath where the “clear” has chipped / worn away.

Actually, it’s a very rare, limited edition model called Lightening Dull..

For comparison:

820BAEFC-B2A9-40F7-B99A-3081FDD46FAD (resized).jpegB684EBCC-A94E-4006-9C67-739B2E28FB16 (resized).jpeg
#1286 12 months ago
Quoted from BeachPickle:

Yah that’s probably not in the cards for me. I’m a graphic artist, and am drawn to the artwork almost as much as the gameplay.
You can see the nice vibrant colors hiding out underneath where the “clear” has chipped / worn away.
Actually, it’s a very rare, limited edition model called Lightening Dull..
For comparison:
[quoted image][quoted image]

Those two pictures are quite the comparison. The WHITE one looks nice and clean. Almost too clean. The yellowed one....well that tells a story. I can picture smoke filled bowling alleys, pool halls, and even a barber shop or two where that machine aged well. Patina....I love it.

#1287 12 months ago
Quoted from BeachPickle:

From my limited experience, it seems there was a misguided era of “restoration/preservation” where people unfortunately used oil based Polly on the playfields. The factory lacquer will of course yellow over time, but nowhere near the
[quoted image]

Sooooo I took a huge chance a few years ago. Had a Spot Bowler that had been shellacked or lacquered. I don't think it was poly. I used denatured alcohol, a plastic putty knife, one of those kitchen scrubby's that look like someone took a piece of plastic string and wound it into tiny curls. NOT a scotchpad. Then very carefully working one area at a time, applied the alcohol, let it soak for a few minutes, used the scrubby lightly to roughen it up, then carefully the plastic putty knife. At the end of a full weekend, was able to remove everything. Did a small amount of paint damage, but very little. The dark blue did develop a whitish haze in places, but after a couple of waxings and some time, it turned back to blue. Pics below are before - top, after - bottom, and the after was just after the first waxing.

BTW: These days I do a lot of paint touch up on some 60's and mostly 70's games. But always been afraid to try it on this game.

2016-10-30 00.01.43 - Copy (resized).jpgIMG_9156 (resized).JPG

#1288 12 months ago

Going over a '52 Gottlieb Hit 'N' Run for a friend. Pretty filthy.
20201114_143400 (resized).jpg20201114_143216 (resized).jpg
Cabinet cleaned up nice with xxxx steel wool and Greased Lightning cleaner, followed by Howard's Feed N Wax. 20201114_153548 (resized).jpg20201114_153736 (resized).jpg
The playfield was also really dirty, with some lost veneer, sunken rollovers, chipped bumper skirts, and missing plastics. 20201114_143553 (resized).jpg
Playfield also cleaned up well, used Novus 2. 20201115_150718 (resized).jpg
The unique '1 Base When Lit' bumper caps were goners. So new caps with decals printed on clear printable vinyl film w/adhesive backing. Bumpers repaired, rollovers leveled. (Plastics on order.) 20201204_125233-1 (resized).jpg20201204_130424 (resized).jpg20201205_120523 (resized).jpg

#1289 12 months ago
Quoted from BeachPickle:

Yah that’s probably not in the cards for me. I’m a graphic artist, and am drawn to the artwork almost as much as the gameplay.
You can see the nice vibrant colors hiding out underneath where the “clear” has chipped / worn away.
Actually, it’s a very rare, limited edition model called Lightening Dull..
For comparison:
[quoted image][quoted image]

I prefer the rarer, limited edition Lightening Dull

#1290 12 months ago
Quoted from tomcons:

Going over a '52 Gottlieb Hit 'N' Run for a friend. Pretty filthy.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Cabinet cleaned up nice with xxxx steel wool and Greased Lightning cleaner, followed by Howard's Feed N Wax. [quoted image][quoted image]
The playfield was also really dirty, with some lost veneer, sunken rollovers, chipped bumper skirts, and missing plastics. [quoted image]
Playfield also cleaned up well, used Novus 2. [quoted image]
The unique '1 Base When Lit' bumper caps were goners. So new caps with decals printed on clear printable vinyl film w/adhesive backing. Bumpers repaired, rollovers leveled. (Plastics on order.) [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice work, Tom!

#1291 12 months ago
Quoted from JethroP:

well that tells a story.

Unfortunately, the story this one tells is of someone’s misguided attempt to “restore” it, and in doing so, actually erasing that natural patina and history you wax poetic about.

They used a cheap dark stain on the rails, did a half assed repaint of the cab and head, and used a very yellow “clear” on the perfectly intact playfield art.

Not to mention they also hacked the hell out of the wiring and over filed every switch way too rough. You can tell the game hasn’t been played much or at all since the work. The reproduction plastics they put on it are nice I guess?

To a casual observer it’d pass as a neat old relic, but to anyone who works on or collects these things, it’s a bit of an aberration.

If that’s the story anyone wants their games to tell, give me a holler. Lightening Dull could be yours!

#1292 12 months ago
Quoted from BeachPickle:

Yah that’s probably not in the cards for me. I’m a graphic artist, and am drawn to the artwork almost as much as the gameplay.
You can see the nice vibrant colors hiding out underneath where the “clear” has chipped / worn away.
Actually, it’s a very rare, limited edition model called Lightening Dull..
For comparison:
[quoted image][quoted image]

BTW: If you want to get rid of the 70's era wood grain vinyl pop ring protectors. Look up the freeze technique, basically air spray keyboard cleaner, turned upside down and sprayed on the vinyl. Most of the time that will do it. Had one game where it didn't, and used a hair dryer (NOT a heat gun) to soften the vinyl and that worked.

#1293 12 months ago
Quoted from DCRand:

If you want to get rid of the 70's era wood grain vinyl pop ring protectors.

I have them on a few machines and haven't removed them as I am worried about what is underneath. How did your playfield look?

And aren't these from the 50's?

#1294 12 months ago
Quoted from tomcons:

Going over a '52 Gottlieb Hit 'N' Run for a friend. Pretty filthy.

Looks great, Tom. Do you have a picture of the decal by itself? I'm curious what it looks like. I'd imagine the decal would wrinkle on the round surface?

#1295 12 months ago
Quoted from PinballFever:

Looks great, Tom. Do you have a picture of the decal by itself? I'm curious what it looks like. I'd imagine the decal would wrinkle on the round surface?

You get some slight wrinkling, but the glossy sheen of the decal and the cap tend to hide it. Burnishing any creases helps too, as does an extra cut in a void area to relieve stress from mounting on a curved surface. So viewing from the normal distance it's pretty hard to tell that it's a decal.

20201207_183248 (resized).jpg
#1296 11 months ago

Deleted post.

#1297 11 months ago
Quoted from tfduda:

I have them on a few machines and haven't removed them as I am worried about what is underneath. How did your playfield look?
And aren't these from the 50's?

Actually don't know if they are 70's, but see them on a number of 70's era games. And they look like the wood grain contact paper my mom and I used on things in the 70's. Playfield below varies. If they were put on as a preventative measure, it can look pretty good. But often they were put on after damage, and you could have wear into bare wood. But since I touch up paint anyway, I don't worry about that too much.

#1298 11 months ago
Quoted from tomcons:

You get some slight wrinkling, but the glossy sheen of the decal and the cap tend to hide it. Burnishing any creases helps too, as does an extra cut in a void area to relieve stress from mounting on a curved surface. So viewing from the normal distance it's pretty hard to tell that it's a decal.

The extra cut is a good idea. I didn't think of that. How do these pop bumper caps look lit up?

#1300 11 months ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Virginia for sale near me. austin.craigslist.org link

Interesting piece of history. I wish I had room for something like this. I think he is asking too much all things considered.

There are 1,579 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 32.

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