Quoted from MarkG:That's the only switch that can fire the Reset relay. Does the Reset relay fire if you jumper around the switch (from the yellow wire to the white-blue wire)?
It does not. Also,
I get continuity when I probe those tabs.
Quoted from MarkG:That's the only switch that can fire the Reset relay. Does the Reset relay fire if you jumper around the switch (from the yellow wire to the white-blue wire)?
It does not. Also,
I get continuity when I probe those tabs.
Continuity doesn't tell you much in this case. If you unplug the game and clip your probes to the yellow and white-blue wires on either side of that 100k closed at zero switch, some meters will tell you there's continuity even if the switch is open.
Golden Bells Reset relay (resized).jpg
The reason is that there is another path through the Reset relay coil, fuse and transformer. Continuity just means there's a low resistance (usually less than 20-40 ohms) path between the probes. If you check the resistance between those wires instead you'll read something like 25-40 ohms through the coil and transformer but an ohm or less if the path is going through the switch. Which is it?
If you can jumper from the solder lug on the Reset relay coil with the white-blue wire to the yellow wire and the Reset relay doesn't fire the coil may be open. Otherwise there's probably a problem getting through the 100k unit.
Quoted from MarkG:Continuity doesn't tell you much in this case. If you unplug the game and clip your probes to the yellow and white-blue wires on either side of that 100k closed at zero switch, some meters will tell you there's continuity even if the switch is open.
[quoted image]
The reason is that there is another path through the Reset relay coil, fuse and transformer. Continuity just means there's a low resistance (usually less than 20-40 ohms) path between the probes. If you check the resistance between those wires instead you'll read something like 25-40 ohms through the coil and transformer but an ohm or less if the path is going through the switch. Which is it?
If you can jumper from the solder lug on the Reset relay coil with the white-blue wire to the yellow wire and the Reset relay doesn't fire the coil may be open. Otherwise there's probably a problem getting through the 100k unit.
Ok, that makes sense. When I have white-blue hooked up to yellow-blue (is that blue?) I get 0.8 ohms. I did move around to maybe green-X and yellow-X and got 40 ohms. Those don’t connect through this switch, but did show what you described about being able to be a complete circuit, but take a long path to get there.
I’ll rotate pics if it will let me, but not working before I post.
ACC32FC1-32F4-47F7-9074-315B0D002F17 (resized).jpegF670A697-E0FA-451A-9C74-3F98DA4C4885 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from MarkG:Are you sure that's the right switch? There are apparently at least two:
[quoted image]
The first one (that you're looking for) looks to me to be a wiper on a contact board. The second one looks more like a plain old switch. What does the label behind the switch say?
I don’t know how that means a wiper, but the part of the wiper that is tied to the white-blue lug was getting 40 ohms, so open at the wiper and closed going the long way? I pushed down on it and it went to zero ohms. I’ll toy with it tomorrow when everyone is awake. Appreciate the look.
Wanted to share a recent addition.
Really feel lucky to have acquired this game.
Needed just a couple minor things and a few minor touch-ups, but overall its looking and playing really well!
Quoted from ChipScott:Wanted to share a recent addition.
Really feel lucky to have acquired this game.
Needed just a couple minor things and a few minor touch-ups, but overall its looking and playing really well!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Great looking game.
Thx so much! Did some cabinet touch-ups here and there, painted the coin door, legs and beehive in a light almond color, repainted the knob on the shooter rod, did a few switch adjustments under the pf and a partial flipper rebuild across all of the flippers, a small tweak of a spring at the 1's reel on player one....and it's really looking and playing great! May try my hand at restoring the backglass as there are a few areas of missing paint.
Quoted from ChipScott:Wanted to share a recent addition.
Really feel lucky to have acquired this game.
Needed just a couple minor things and a few minor touch-ups, but overall its looking and playing really well!
Dang. That is a sweet looking Gondolier. Tops on my woodrail want list! Enjoy it.
I haven't had a woodrail in a couple years but just added 3 in 2020. Bought all of them from friends. Frontiersman from O-din and Dancing Dolls and Hi-Diver from Presqueisle. Hard to beat the beauty of a woodrail but also nice to to bring clean plug and play games home. Usually I buy games in project form.
DancingDollsA (resized).jpgFrontiersman (resized).jpgHi-Diver (resized).JPG
Quoted from pinwiztom:I am surprized that o-din let Frontierman go
Sold it to me in June. I think he had played it a ton, but also wanted it to go somewhere he could get it back if he got the itch. Plays real nice, multiple ways to win, good stuff.
Quoted from pinwiztom:I am surprized that o-din let Frontierman go
Yes, he said he would never sell it!!!
Always wanted a Frontiersman - no space anymore.
Looks like it plays similar to Ace High which is a superb player.
Quoted from Shapeshifter:Always wanted a Frontiersman - no space anymore.
Looks like it plays similar to Ace High which is a superb player.
It's very good. The only thing I noticed about it is the hard way to win pays off big but is almost too challenging to try for. Lighting all 4 (ABCD) of the same color pays off multiple replays if you can land it in the lit gobble hole. I've got it once by accident. O-din loved the challenge. Much easier to win on score or advancing one letter four times and landing in the gobble hole. Small payoff but I usually can get a replay more often than not.
Quoted from JethroP:My DANCING DOLLS is going up for sale. Shopped and working 100%. Does $700 sound high, low or about right?
[quoted image][quoted image]
You’ll sell it at that price but I think someone who really wants it will pay more.
Quoted from Gotemwill:Hard to beat the artwork of two player games from this era!
Absolutely. I think 50s to early 60s Gottlieb artwork is in a league of it's own.
So, what are the rules for Golden Bells?
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1045&picno=1019
I got this game with sunken inserts and worn to the wood art so I cleared it. I recently got it to live again and was playing it last night and realized I don’t think I have all of the information. There are 9 bells and those light when certain (unknown to me as of yet) switches are hit. There are also triangles that advance being lit when you hit a variety of targets labeled advance.
Wondering if my lack of art on the inserts was the issue I went to IMDB. No numbers (my thinking is that each bell has a certain switch that turns it on) on any of the inserts. Also, none that I can see in the non-faded art of the plastics that some of mine are showing to be very faded.
How do I light specific bells?
Is there something that happens when you light them all?
There is red art that has the words “spots when lit” next to several inserts. Is that spotting one of three letters in front of the gobble hole when you hit the lit target?
Does a lit triangle above a lit bell mean you should do something?
Maybe that lights one of those inserts?
Cool game, but I’m sort of flying blind.
Quoted from ChipScott:Wanted to share a recent addition.
Really feel lucky to have acquired this game.
Needed just a couple minor things and a few minor touch-ups, but overall its looking and playing really well!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great. Very nice acquisition.
Quoted from JethroP:My DANCING DOLLS is going up for sale. Shopped and working 100%. Does $700 sound high, low or about right?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Man, wish I had room. Probably wouldn't be a keeper though as really don't like gobble holes.
Quoted from DCRand:Probably wouldn't be a keeper though as really don't like gobble holes.
I picked up a game once....the gobble hole was covered with a piece of duct tape! Guess that's one way to solve that problem??!?!
Quoted from Shapeshifter:Always wanted a Frontiersman - no space anymore.
Looks like it plays similar to Ace High which is a superb player.
Actually, the gameplay is more similar to "Wishing Well". You don't see that one very often.
Quoted from desertT1:So, what are the rules for Golden Bells?
The schematic is a little confusing because it refers to an Advance Unit and a Selection Unit but I think they're the same thing. Basically though I think that the lights in the triangles advance as you hit playfield targets. They indicate which bell will light if you hit a Spot target. It's similar to Magic City/Town or likely many other games.
The triangle lights advance when you hit any of the 8 playfield advance switches or the center pop bumper.
A bell next to the lit triangle will light when either
- a right spotting switch or the right eject hole is activated OR
- a left spotting switch or the left eject hole is activated (these two alternate - only the lit set of switches will work)
The flyer on IPDB.com describes when specials are awarded. There are also credits awarded for a match or replay level.
Quoted from jrpinball:Actually, the gameplay is more similar to "Wishing Well". You don't see that one very often.
Nearly bought one of those a few years ago but cabinets are chipwood and weigh a ton!
Quoted from desertT1:So, what are the rules for Golden Bells?
.
For the special lights
light any 5 bell in a row to light 1st special
light any 7 bell in a row to light 2nd special
light all 10 bell in a row to light 3rd special
Center hole to collect specials
Quoted from MarkG:The schematic is a little confusing because it refers to an Advance Unit and a Selection Unit but I think they're the same thing. Basically though I think that the lights in the triangles advance as you hit playfield targets. They indicate which bell will light if you hit a Spot target. It's similar to Magic City/Town or likely many other games.
The triangle lights advance when you hit any of the 8 playfield advance switches or the center pop bumper.
A bell next to the lit triangle will light when either
- a right spotting switch or the right eject hole is activated OR
- a left spotting switch or the left eject hole is activated (these two alternate - only the lit set of switches will work)
The flyer on IPDB.com describes when specials are awarded. There are also credits awarded for a match or replay level.
Quoted from ArgosySK:For the special lights
light any 5 bell in a row to light 1st special
light any 7 bell in a row to light 2nd special
light all 10 bell in a row to light 3rd special
Center hole to collect specials
Wow, thanks! You both provided lots of info that I hadn’t picked up on just by playing.
The only thing now is to try and figure out why the 6v fuse holder is showing 18V (AC) when I put the black lead on the transformer case. If there is a better place for this I’m all ears. I only care because it blows the 6v fuse in about 30 seconds.
Just watched a video of 1947 Williams Cyclone. It has a really cool metal habitrail. Any other wood rails have them?
Quoted from crujones4life:cool metal habitrail. Any other wood rails have them?
WMS Skyway
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2206&picno=60008
Quoted from crujones4life:Any other wood rails have them?
1935 genco spitfire has them. There’s one for sale on NH CL right now actually.
Beautiful game, though it’s likely classified as a pre-war, not Woodrail, even though it is technically electro mechanical and has wood rails..
Chicago Express has an elevated track modeled after the elevated trains in Chicago
https://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=503&picno=46741&zoom=1
Quoted from MarkG:Chicago Express has an elevated track modeled after the elevated trains in Chicago
https://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=503&picno=46741&zoom=1
Awesome looking game.
I know someone looking for a 1959 Williams Rocket. Anyone know of one within a few hours of St. Louis, MO?
Quoted from PrinzFred:Picked up these fun games. Planning on keeping the Casino. The Big Hit is spoken for. If anyone interested in Guys and Dolls, I will contribute to Pinside if sold here.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow. They all look very nice. Love the cabinet art on "Guys Dolls". Very colorful.
Quoted from crujones4life:I know someone looking for a 1959 Williams Rocket. Anyone know of one within a few hours of St. Louis, MO?
Yeah me too. Good luck with your search. A month or so ago a pinsider had a very nice one listed in the market place. I think he still has it.
Here’s a 1953 Gtb Quintette. I’ve showed it here before, but since it’s for sale...here it goes again. It’s my oldest, but nicest original pinball, all things considered. The legendary DirtFlipper did the clean up on this, and was nice enough to part with it a couple few years back. I’m anticipating a move next year so I’m selling a bunch of my games. I have some other woodies listed too (All DF specials).
5 gobble holes! Many ways to win credits, including landing in the gobble holes! See, gobble holes aren’t all bad.
All original, beautiful pf and caps.
Game in the Madison WI area.
86A1EB6A-B8C2-4CF5-86C3-6F55EDDD1CD6 (resized).jpeg56ABD727-E8A3-4308-B349-DE50A517FF83 (resized).jpeg1A8F44CE-C746-4380-A6D7-FCEA5EE88385 (resized).jpegD83A919C-9FCB-485B-A77F-8332615C8971 (resized).jpegE3E70FDD-1F30-4189-AABF-134596466FB4 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from stavio:Very nice. Will the Sittn Pretty be listed?
Already sold. Unfortunately not to me. Wish I was closer.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/102569
Yes, sold, sorry. I’m keeping my listings current.
Shouldn’t every EM collection have a wood rail?
Sittin’ Pretty is going to a good home.
20 clowns represented on Sittin’ Pretty. Gtb was known for their clowns, and Sittin’ Pretty was king of the clowns.
Lloyd had some great posts re a Sittin’ Pretty.
A tear jerker, a sad story with good memories, but real emotions with pinball. I always thought of those posts while playing.
Quoted from presqueisle:Here’s a 1953 Gtb Quintette. I’ve showed it here before, but since it’s for sale...here it goes again. It’s my oldest, but nicest original pinball, all things considered. The legendary DirtFlipper did the clean up on this, and was nice enough to part with it a couple few years back. I’m anticipating a move next year so I’m selling a bunch of my games. I have some other woodies listed too (All DF specials).
5 gobble holes! Many ways to win credits, including landing in the gobble holes! See, gobble holes aren’t all bad.
All original, beautiful pf and caps.
Game in the Madison WI area.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Beautiful game. And yes, gobble holes are all bad. Lol
Picked up a 1940 Bally Triumph in a package deal. Incredible backglass for 80 yrs old. Someone cut one of the wiring harnesses in the backbox. I spent a few hours comparing wire colors and jerry rigging a jones plug from a WMS Big Deal project machine. A dangerously corroded power cord, a few blown fuses, some switches that needed adjustment and she started up. I will post some pics and a video after I have solved an issue with the #5 and #10 in the backbox. In the meantime, here are a few pics of the passive bumpers and conservative and liberal adjustments...
alive (resized).PNGbumper (resized).JPGbumper-disassembled (resized).JPGbumper-liberal (resized).JPGbumper-conservative (resized).JPGQuoted from Pmoore66:Picked up a 1940 Bally Triumph in a package deal. Incredible backglass for 80 yrs old. Someone cut one of the wiring harnesses in the backbox. I spent a few hours comparing wire colors and jerry rigging a jones plug from a WMS Big Deal project machine. A dangerously corroded power cord, a few blown fuses, some switches that needed adjustment and she started up. I will post some pics and a video after I have solved an issue with the #5 and #10 in the backbox. In the meantime, here are a few pics of the passive bumpers and conservative and liberal adjustments...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice game. Had half of one once, Triumph back box and play field, in an unknown cabinet.
Quoted from JethroP:I picked up a game once....the gobble hole was covered with a piece of duct tape! Guess that's one way to solve that problem??!?!
My Lightning Ball came with a post guarding each gobble hole. Maybe a grandfather sought to help out the grand kids? BTW Lightning Ball is one wonderful game. Too bad the backglass gal looks like a refugee from a funhouse mirror!
More Bally Triumph - unloaded the playfield and giving her a scrub down. Without schematics or any docs, I’m trying to identify these bulbs. Anyone out there with detail that might help me? A. Tiny screw in bulb. General back box light. B. Bulb behind each number in back box. C. Bulb behind the Star in the back box. D. Large Bulb for the projector mech in the cabinet at the back on the right side. Looks like it is supposed to project a number through some mirrors up to the playfield. Credits?
31793C72-3CE4-434B-8872-19B74C5CFE39 (resized).jpegUpdating the status of the two 1951 Chicago Coin 'Play Ball' games I picked up a few weeks ago.
The one on the right is up and running. Someone found the stepper I needed for it and even fabricated the wiper. I've still got one issue to chase down, but it's almost there.
The backbox glass and playfield glass are my repros, on plexiglass.
20200928_135553 (resized).jpg20200925_175347 (resized).jpg20200925_175435 (resized).jpg
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