I think it will clean up nicely!!
(Topic ID: 127724)
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Grand Champion
Williams, 1953
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Muskego, WI
If someone is looking for a woodrail, I have a minstrel man for sale.
Quoted from mtbpinball:Picked up a Williams Rocket pinball. Total project game. but I would like to put it back together. I did find a Repro backglass. If anyone has this game and could send me a picture of the front door so I can be sure it's complete also I need a back door ..but I guess I could make one for the head. also need a few caps that say fire. or maybe this games too far gone to put back together and just sell it?? but it is complete other than that.
I wish you were closer. That is my birthday pin. It looks like a nice project.
Utrecht
Love this topic 
As a heads up: Pinball Magazine No. 5 will hopefully be available by the end of April 2018 and will feature Wayne Neyens' entire career in pinball. From the early days at Western, going to Gottlieb, WWII, becoming a designer, all the games he designed, his days as chief engineer up to his retirement in 1980. There will be many woodrail games featured and discussed, as well as many insights on how the Gottlieb plant was working. A must-read for anybody who likes woodrail games.
Quoted from unigroove:Love this topic As a heads up: Pinball Magazine No. 5 will hopefully be available by the end of April 2018 and will feature Wayne Neyens' entire career in pinball. From the early days at Western, going to Gottlieb, WWII, becoming a designer, all the games he designed, his days as chief engineer up to his retirement in 1980. There will be many woodrail games featured and discussed, as well as many insights on how the Gottlieb plant was working. A must-read for anybody who likes woodrail games.
I am unreasonably excited about this coming issue!
Duisburg
Bulli
This is my only woodrail at the moment. Gottlieb Score-Board from 1956.
I fell in love with the backglass art at 13 years of age in 1977 after buying Michael Colmer's book.
Imported this game from a collector in CA 18 months ago as it would be impossible to find in Australia.
Have her all running sweet now, hoping that Backglass Resto do the backglass one day.
When it arrived into Sydney noticed it had been sent with the 31" Gottlieb timber legs so went with that and they really look cool on this game.
Have a pinball meet here in 3 weekends and have about 50 people coming. Have decided that Score-Board will be the 'comp' game for something different.
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Quoted from Matesamo:I picked up a 1936 Bumper Machine today and the bulb that projects the score onto the screen in the head is broken. Where could I get replacements or is the a modification I can do to project the score?
I found that using the "silverlight" auto bulbs works well for these projection units. The bigger problem is the plastic stencil-type wheel that the light shines through can be warped, which makes the number look distorted...but from the pic, that one doesn't look too bad!
I can't recall the exact number of the bulbs I use - but I have it at home and can get it for you later if I remember...
Sean
2 weeks later
My United Utah was sold this morning to make room for another woodrail that's coming. It's a lot of fun to play but there are no schematics available for it so it's going to someone more experienced with repairing them.
I'll reveal the new woodrail when it's here. (the Palooka is up for sale. the Paul Bunyan is staying)
Bruce
1 week later
Pretty nice looking Gypsy Queen, makes me want to set mine back up again. If I only had more space...
ENJOY!!
Quoted from PinballFever:Nice pickup. Will you be removing the metal flipper guards or leaving them on?
I'll see what it looks like underneath.
I'm hoping that the playfield looks good under those pop bumper vinyl rings.
Quoted from waltrr:Pretty nice looking Gypsy Queen, makes me want to set mine back up again. If I only had more space...
ENJOY!!
Thanks. The backglass is nearly perfect. The game did play, but it's going to need a total going through.
Guy said he had it for 40 years.
Quoted from jrpinball:Quoted from PinballFever:
Nice pickup. Will you be removing the metal flipper guards or leaving them on?I'll see what it looks like underneath.
They were installed on my woodrail too. I haven't decided whether to remove them or not but obviously they were operator added.
1940 Bally Triumph, 1938 Chicago Coin Swing, saved from becoming coffee tables and on the way home. Any info on these games would be appreciated. And will be looking for a home for the Triumph. I know flipperless are not worth much, but these were too cool to let them become furniture.
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Quoted from DCRand:1940 Bally Triumph, 1938 Chicago Coin Swing, saved from becoming coffee tables and on the way home. Any info on these games would be appreciated. And will be looking for a home for the Triumph. I know flipperless are not worth much, but these were too cool to let them become furniture.
I agree DCRand .
They don't look flaky or beat up. Do they work? They almost look like you could just plug them in and play them.
Quoted from nomo:Can anyone give me advice how to create a stencil, or finding a stencil to recreate the paint job?
Conscious that your original post was some weeks back but thought I would share my approach. That is to take a tracing paper take of the original on the cab & then transfer it to MDF board using a jigsaw for cutout. I have found this to be the cheapest, quickest & best method for obtaining the stencil 'bleed' per original paint. This is a set of stencils I recently made to repaint a GTB Flying Carpet. Cab & backbox sides are mirror reserve so only one stencil needed of each colour.
Ottawa, ON
Quoted from wayner:Conscious that your original post was some weeks back but thought I would share my approach. That is to take a tracing paper take of the original on the cab & then transfer it to MDF board using a jigsaw for cutout. I have found this to be the cheapest, quickest & best method for obtaining the stencil 'bleed' per original paint. This is a set of stencils I recently made to repaint a GTB Flying Carpet. Cab & backbox sides are mirror reserve so only one stencil needed of each colour.
Doing the same as you with 1/8" MDF board but using a laser cutter to cut the stencils. This I can do for free at my local library. Nothing like watching a laser cutter do a dozen perfect circles!
Quoted from Grayman_EM:I agree dcrand . They don't look flaky or beat up. Do they work? They almost look like you could just plug them in and play them.
Overall for age both in very good condition. Neither works yet. One has a screw in fuse holder on outside of cabinet at back with fuse missing and shredded power cord. Both need switches and other fuses checked and power cord change before plugging in. Swing has home made painted black cabinet door. And worst of all broken plunger / ball cover bracket.
If there is interest could really use some advice on how to get them working and fix things like bracket as I get working on them. And really want to find a good home for Triumph.
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Swing : What is that elongated mech or apparatus in the middle and what is its purpose (role)?
Also looks like it may be missing some mini posts and bulb cover near bottom of the elongated apparatus.
Very cool looking game, hope you can bring it fully back to life.
I've seen "Triumph" before, but not "Swing". Those older games are really good looking and probably more fun than one might think.
For some reason, as soon as I saw Triumph playfield, in my head I started singing "one two three four five. Six seven eight nine ten, eleven twelve. TWELVE!".....but then had to be a little OCD and mentally add thirteen fourteen fifteen. 
Quoted from wayner:Conscious that your original post was some weeks back but thought I would share my approach. That is to take a tracing paper take of the original on the cab & then transfer it to MDF board using a jigsaw for cutout. I have found this to be the cheapest, quickest & best method for obtaining the stencil 'bleed' per original paint. This is a set of stencils I recently made to repaint a GTB Flying Carpet. Cab & backbox sides are mirror reserve so only one stencil needed of each colour.
I assume these are 1/8 MDF like dr_nybble mentioned? Just crurious how you placed stencils for slight bleed (and I know there are other threads on painting, just since you mentioned it...) did you lay cabinet over and set stencils? Or just hold close in one hand and spray with other??
Quoted from DCRand:Overall for age both in very good condition. Neither works yet. One has a screw in fuse holder on outside of cabinet at back with fuse missing and shredded power cord. Both need switches and other fuses checked and power cord change before plugging in. Swing has home made painted black cabinet door. And worst of all broken plunger / ball cover bracket.
If there is interest could really use some advice on how to get them working and fix things like bracket as I get working on them. And really want to find a good home for Triumph.
I have found that particular vintage shooter housing style to be the most fragile. It seems to always turn up fractured.
Quoted from pinwiztom:Swing : What is that elongated mech or apparatus in the middle and what is its purpose (role)?
It's a captive ball kicker! Hits those rollover switches (likely for the Mystery score) and adds some animation as you play.
Quoted from ZNET:I have found that particular vintage shooter housing style to be the most fragile. It seems to always turn up fractured.
I was thinking I might have one in that style. I will have to peek tonight.
Quoted from AlexF:I was thinking I might have one in that style. I will have to peek tonight.
Alex, That would be great. I pretty much assumed that at this age, it was impossible to find. Was thinking of trying to epoxy it together from the back, with some added metal backing. Thankfully all the pieces are there.
Quoted from jrpinball:I've seen "Triumph" before, but not "Swing". Those older games are really good looking and probably more fun than one might think.
Swing was a surprise, in particular that the backglass appears perfect from the front (haven 't looked at the back yet), and is so beautiful. Triumph has some minor bg issues from the front, and haven't looked at the back of it yet either. Hoping to look at both more closely this weekend. Also going to list the Triumph as is for sale as just don't have room for it, but was hoping to save it from becoming a coffee table. Did roll a new ball down the Swing play field this morning with no power of course, before leaving for work, was a little like watching grass grow. Hoping once get it working will be a little more exciting.
Quoted from bingopodcast:It's a captive ball kicker! Hits those rollover switches (likely for the Mystery score) and adds some animation as you play.
You are correct, there is a kicker at the bottom, and the Mystery roll over appears to fire it. At least a couple of the posts are loose inside the cabinet, on both machines. Will have to find out what the material around the red posts near the center piece are on Swing as all are either mostly missing or hard as rocks. Almost laughed out loud when lifted both playfields, compared to even my 1950 Spot Bowler, they are almost empty. No flipper mechs of course, no steppers, no pop bumper mechs, pretty much no anything we are used to seeing in cabinets or under pf's.
Quoted from pacmanretro:I assume these are 1/8 MDF like dr_nybble mentioned? Just crurious how you placed stencils for slight bleed (and I know there are other threads on painting, just since you mentioned it...) did you lay cabinet over and set stencils? Or just hold close in one hand and spray with other??
No I use 6mm MDF because for me it provides improved rigidity & I find anything thinner tends not to give as good jigsaw cuts. The rigidity also assists to ensure there is an even bleed. I use anything handy to hold down the MDF stencil per pic below.
Quoted from Darcy:Is that plunger housing made from pot metal? If it is. you might want to try that metal epoxy stuff JB Weld.
Funny, I have some JB at home and that is what I was thinking of trying. Then embedding some thin metal strap or even nails in the epoxy on the back side to add strength.
Quoted from DCRand:Alex, That would be great. I pretty much assumed that at this age, it was impossible to find. Was thinking of trying to epoxy it together from the back, with some added metal backing. Thankfully all the pieces are there.
Sorry different style.
Quoted from wayner:No I use 6mm MDF because for me it provides improved rigidity & I find anything thinner tends not to give as good jigsaw cuts. The rigidity also assists to ensure there is an even bleed. I use anything handy to hold down the MDF stencil per pic below.
Cool. Thanks for the pic. Didn't realize you actually clamped it down even! I believe 6mm would be close to 1/4 inch for me. Makes sense what you are saying about being a bit more rigid for cutting. I appreciate the extra insight.
Quoted from AlexF:Sorry different style.
Will try to glue mine. But wonder if yours would work in a pinch?
Quoted from pacmanretro:Cool. Thanks for the pic. Didn't realize you actually clamped it down even! I believe 6mm would be close to 1/4 inch for me. Makes sense what you are saying about being a bit more rigid for cutting. I appreciate the extra insight.
The clamping on the perimeter mainly is probably not absolutely necessary but I do it mainly to prevent stencil movement from an 'accidental bump'-'if it can happen it often will'!
Quoted from PinballFever:Are schematics available for the Genco woodrails? Their games look a lot of fun and very unique.
None of my Gencos had schematics when obtained, nor any repros available. The Silver Chest and 400 were challenging to work on, but were conquered.
I was lucky to find a factory schematic for the '57 Show Boat on the internet. It was printed in "negative" format.
My Springtime, alas, has only a few bits left of the original.
Generally speaking, the Genco woodies aren't that complicated.
Quoted from DCRand:Would you triple thick this 1938 Swing back glass?
I'm about to Triple Thick my recently acquired 1955 "Gypsy Queen" backglass which is nearly perfect.
I've done other perfect backglasses before with no ill effects, and it's good insurance for the future of the glass, perhaps even decades from now.
It's your call though.
Quoted from DCRand:broken plunger / ball cover bracket.
Your repairs look pretty good, as best as can be expected cosmetically,
but hope that repeated or over enthusiastic use of the manual ball lift plunger
does not make your repairs fail.
Quoted from pinwiztom:Your repairs look pretty good, as best as can be expected cosmetically,
but hope that repeated or over enthusiastic use of the manual ball lift plunger
does not make your repairs fail.
I am hoping the same thing, that is why I am still looking for replacement. But also why I completely filled the back side with JB Weld, and put a nail buried in the JB Weld on each side of the break, the length of the piece. Hopefully that will hold things, but .........
Re triple thicking back glass. Leaning toward doing it because it does have flaws, including one scratch, in the black parts that I would like to touch up. And thinking that touching up on the back side of triple thick is safer than trying to touch up directly on the glass. Also, the wood light panel is rubbing in a few places, and going to use felt spacers on the face of the wood to protect the glass. Would rather have the felt resting on the TT than on the glass.
Quoted from AlexF:Nah, it's 80 years old and in great shape. It will probably be indoors in a temperature controlled environment for the rest of it's life. Why tempt fate.
Actually, due to wifely issues, Pins aren't allowed in the house. Do have a fully insulated garage on the north side of the house, with de-humidifier for winter rain season. But temp can vary from 45 low to 95 high in garage.
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