(Topic ID: 249691)

Wonka LE Sling Post Chipping in one month!!

By rs812

4 years ago


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Post #1403 Response from JJP from the Pinball Magazine podcast Posted by RobertWinter (4 years ago)

Post #1407 Transcribed response from JJP from the Pinball Magazine podcast Posted by RobertWinter (4 years ago)


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#41 4 years ago

Doesn't Stern also buy from Micro? If so, has anyone complained recently?

#319 4 years ago
Quoted from jimwe5t:

...This is the responsibility of JJP period, not a third party...

Not picking sides, and I don't own a JJP. Just a little inspection insight.

From a manufacturing standpoint, the responsibility is kind of up in the air. If JJP has incoming inspection, and they OK'd the boards (hard to believe they would check for hardness, likely dimensions and flaws in the art), then the responsibility would be in the hands of JJP -they accepted the boards as good.

If a PF vendor does the inspection themselves and certifies the PF is OK, then the PF vendor would be responsible. But the big catch would be "Is a coating hardness test part of the PF inspection?" If not (and that would have been agreed to by both parties) - then the PF vendor is off the hook. It could have been as simple as "apply the coating per instructions". Yes, we did that - check, done (but no hardness test required). Not to mention if the PF vendor has bad boards, then there's the big liability of how do you resolve the issue if it's a fully populated PF that's now very expensive to replace. A blank PF is not a big issue. One out in the wild in a person's pin is now a very expensive problem. Adding fuel to the fire, now the coating vendor and wood supplier would also get involved. I can see a lot of finger pointing going on here between all vendors.

The odd thing is, this isn't the first time JJP had this issue. If I was the pin manufacture, someone would have been on a plane the next day to resolve this issue and make sure a test was added to verify.

In my line of work, it's not uncommon to take an OTC part and add extra tests that aren't normally covered to guarantee performance. Of course, there's an up-charge but the price is small to not have an issue later on down the line.

But getting back to you original comment - it's spot on and would agree. The end-user doesn't have an agreement with the PF vendor, JJP does. The end-user bought the pin from JJP, so it's on JJP's shoulders to resolve issues. Then the issue will turn into "This isn't covered under the warranty terms."

#911 4 years ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Talked to Marco a couple of times today. They did not provide Magical Productions the washer that were sent with tbe Marco posts my original buyer received.
I e-mailed MP asking where they got them from and they have yet to respond. In the meantime, Cale at Marco is trying to be helpful.
They have a "Lexan" washer they recommend. Part number is: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-34-GD
Here is a pic. Seems slightly tall to me.
[quoted image]

Murph,

What does the bottom of the post look like? Is the only contact area around the outside edge?

#924 4 years ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Yes - the contact area is only around the outside edge. Hollow inside. Here are mine installed:
[quoted image]

Darn, I was hoping it was flat underneath. That way you could install a thin smaller washer. If (or maybe when) the clear coat rippled, it would have been inside the post edge and less susceptible to damage. Since there would have been a slight elevation from the washer, the outer ring of the post wouldn't touch.

Seems like a good place to look into a standoff or maybe a 3D printed part (probably not strong enough). Something like this:
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#935 4 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

You don't want the stand-off... because it will weaken the post's ability to resist lateral movement. Then you'll just get stuff bending and enlongating holes..

Yeah, I was worried about that. The base would still need some beef to it, something along the lines of the narrow post shown in murphy's post.

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#981 4 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

You don't want the stand-off... because it will weaken the post's ability to resist lateral movement. Then you'll just get stuff bending and enlongating holes..

Hey Flynn,

Don't disagree with your comment, but it looks like the skinny post is used in this location with a kicker. Couldn't JPP secure with one of these posts (or at least smaller than the big plastic post) then the big plastic post is just becomes a decoration, not touching or barely touching the PF?

Just curious. No doubt the real fix is a PF with a good clear coat. But if that doesn't happen - just tossing out food for thought.

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#1494 4 years ago
Quoted from benheck:

Cool idea Swinks but it's not very "3D printable" that bottom curve would barely resolve on a machine and also not a good flat printing base.
What if it were 2 pieces? The slightly wider star post but with the bottom 2mm or so removed to stay above the rippled clear, then a shaft and flange that fits inside that to provide the actual base and clearance?
You'd print 2 parts but they'd both have flat bottoms.

I made a similar comment a few pages back in the thread. I was thinking along the lines of a metal standoff inside the post.
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#1496 4 years ago
Quoted from benheck:

Yeah so the wider star post would kind of "hover" over the ripple. And then the washer or shaft + flange inside would be a smaller diameter than the original star post so it wouldn't apply additional pressure to the clear.

Given JJP's experience on POTC, I'm surprised WW didn't have some clear coat relief around the holes, then redesign the post to rest on the wood, not the clear coat as it is now. Seems like a simple 'no brainer'. Still might have PF issues (ink adhesion), but at least this issue would be put to rest.

#1508 4 years ago
Quoted from benheck:

For a 3D print (on standard FDM machines) you want as much flat printing surface as possible.
So yeah a star post with a few mm removed at bottom to clear the ridge. Star post would have a hollow shaft inside.
Then another shaft with a bottom flange that fits inside the 3D printed star post. This gives you the clearance you need for pooling and flat bottomed parts that will print easily.[quoted image][quoted image]

Wonder if someone could find something over at Marco's as DIY fix. Like this, but maybe add a small, slightly larger washer at the base for stability. Then slip the star post over it. Just food for thought. No clue on the dimensions needed.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#1529 4 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

...along the same lines as Ben and I and yours was the first issued idea, but I was thinking with yours and then later Bens is you then require a spacer and then a custom star post so you may as well just do a custom star post with the step in it.

Wasn't try to point out I was first. Just thought you or Ben might have missed it, given the number of comments popping up on this thread. It sort of went unnoticed at the time, so I thought I'd do a quick Snipit since the topic came up again. I was originally hoping the star post had a solid bottom, then a simple, smaller washer would have been a great way to take care of the issue. But as I suspected, Murphy confirmed it was hollow. Wonder if a solid base star post was ever used on a pin that might work? Part of my original thinking was a way an owner could reuse their star post so they could do the mod quickly with parts purchased at a local hardware store.

#1549 4 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

just ideas merging ideas of @mbwalker , @benheck and myself
7 posts - post 1 and 2 are our control posts
[quoted image]
7 posts with a marking line showing the centre of o-ring rubbers
[quoted image]
7 posts with a cross section
post 1 & 2 - are regular posts sitting on the playfield and art
post 3 & 4 - sit on a 1mm and then a 2mm tapered 3d printed washer supporting the post outer edge but clearing the pooling
post 5 - sitting on a 2 washers a 3/8" and then a 3/4"
post 6 - custom post which is solid and recessed on the bottom side to clear pooling
post 7 - what I think JJP etc should possible consider for posts - a 0.5mm recess into the playfield in which a 3/8" washer drops into and the posts sits on the washer and then no pressure is applied to any playfield art / clearcoat
[quoted image]
a zoom up of post 3,4 & 5
[quoted image]
a zoom up of the custom post and JJP concept
[quoted image]
in the end just brain storming ideas and happy to share files for the tapered washers or custom posts.

Excellent work Swinks! How about some clearance for a metal post in the center for sturdiness (maybe it's already there)? Tried to find one w/a metal base like Ben suggested over at Marcos, but didn't stumble upon it. Then the post becomes more cosmetic.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

1 month later
#2165 4 years ago
Quoted from HOOKED:

Has anyone tried a floating star post? Placing a small washer under the star post causing the outer edge to float above the actual playfield .5mm ?
Using this method will move the pressure point to the center contact area and any pooling or ripple will be protected by the star post body.
Just a thought for those of us still buying this machine NIB

I brought up that thought earlier in the thread. Seems the post are open on the bottom side, only touches the PF around the edges.

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