I've been lazy up until now and have put off the Wolvie remount for quite a while. Also never bothered complaining to the distributor so I don't have any spare figure in case I messed up.
Similar to "Buckles" remount:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xmen-wolverine-toy-remount-made-a-new-mounting-bracket-to-keep-him-straight
I also happened to have bought the exact same bracket from Home Depot quite a while back. I wanted to keep the butchering of Wolvie to a minimum so I made a bracket which fits inside him. In essence this relocates the holes on the mounting pole. Doing it this way serves two purposes. One, I don't need to extend any holes in the back of Wolvie. And two, because of not having to extend any holes, I don't need to worry about him shifting around after being bashed around. I only had to enlarge the hole underneath Wolvie in order to shift him over. Found this to be the slightly cleaner mod should I ever decide to reverse the changes. I'm surprised no one had done it this way yet.
You need the following:
- Home Depot bracket - Simpson Strong Tie ER-102 (about $2)
- Dremel with a cut-off wheel, or hacksaw if you want a challenge
- Drill and various drill bits
- Metal file or sandpaper for deburring
- #6-32 tap
- 2 x #6-32 taper head screws either 3/8" or 1/2" in length
- Vice and hammer
- X-acto blade
- Beverage of choice, caffeinated preferred
Sorry, I didn't take down any measurements but you'll get the idea from the photos. I dremeled out a small square piece from the Home Depot bracket. Using a pencil and the little OEM rectangular bracket behind Wolvie as a guide, I marked off the vertical distance of the holes on this square piece. The horizontal distance of the holes need to be just far enough apart such that when mounted, the left side holes clear the mounting pole when looking from behind Wolvie (Refer to image_5.jpg). You need to drill two small holes and two larger holes on this square piece. The two small holes will be threaded using a #6-32 tap. Then make two larger holes and counter sink them. I don't have a drill press so I did my best to counter sink. This will allow the lowest possible profile for the taper head screws to sit when installed since they will be pressed against the inside of Wolvie's back. See image_3.jpg as a height comparison. Using a metal file or sand paper, deburr any rough edges left by dremeling/hacksawing/drilling. Finally, I put this square piece into my vice and bent it a bit using a hammer and my metal leveler. I bent it so that Wolvie's body will be turned slightly and also it helps the holes clear the mounting pole better.
Using an X-acto blade, I enlarged the hole underneath Wolvie. It does cut like butter. I found that it was much easier to reinstall Wolvie by removing the mounting pole. It is only 4 nuts holding it down underneath the playfield. So using the two #6-32 taper head screws, I put the square bracket onto the mounting pole. Slap Wolvie over it and reinstall using the original hardware (ie, little OEM bracket and two original #6-32 screws). Reinstall mount by putting the 4 nuts back on. Turn machine on and do switch test to ensure Wolvie still works. There was no clearance issues underneath his left elbow. Then do Ice Man ramp test. After doing the Ice Man ramp test, I found that Wolvie's claw was a bit too high and impeded the ramp. I thought maybe Wolvie was mounted too high and I would need to make another bracket to correct this issue by slightly altering the height of the holes. But after taking a closer look, I realized that Wolvie cannot be mounted any lower since his back would impede the functioning of the switch. As a result, I just went medieval by putting downward force on his body and arm. Wolvie is a tough X-Men so he can take it. It is okay for now, but the plastic tends to want to bend back to it's original form. Wolvie does have natural healing powers. Later on I may take a blow drier or heat gun to his arm and see if I can coerce him some more. And last on the list, break open a cold one and play some pinball.
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