(Topic ID: 114357)

Wolf's Beginner Guide to 3D Printing and Pinball

By Wolfmarsh

6 years ago

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  • 219 posts
  • 54 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by OlDirty
  • Topic is favorited by 107 Pinsiders


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    #37 6 years ago

    I'm keeping my eye on the titan 3d printer for detailed prints at work:

    $2800 for an SLA printer (high detail), with almost the speed of an FDM printer, and more material options than there used to be. They're claiming printing down to 20 microns (size of a hair) without breaking. Just look at the detail:


    3 months later
    #53 6 years ago

    I saw that a couple months back. definitely cool technology, but with all SLA's the liquid bath for printing is expensive, and the parts are brittle (but pretty). Most people on here using them for pinball parts need them to be strong (ABS FDM filaments).

    4 months later
    #109 6 years ago
    Quoted from sd_tom:

    Not 3d printer but saw this old kickstarter that was successful for a wire bending machine


    It's been around for a couple years now. The issue is that it has to step the bends, so you'll never get smooth curves

    I saw this today which is a precise robot arm made from 3d printed parts, and can stretch up to a 26" radius. The developer wants to eventually make it multipurpose by not just being an arm to pick and place, but also a 3d printer and cnc router (hello playfield)

    1 month later
    #120 5 years ago
    Quoted from ddebuss:

    If you guys were buying a 3D printer today for $1000 or less. What would you get? Consider size, speed, number of extruders, type of material it will work with, and other things?

    Seems like a few here have the Printrbot:
    amazon.com link »

    Or you could always go with a makerbot clone:
    amazon.com link »

    2 weeks later
    #138 5 years ago

    monoprice is having a black friday sale on the mk-8 (similar to makerbot?) for $299:

    Is this a decent printer? (not for the price, in general). Has the common 1.75mm filament size, prints to PLA and nylon, decent bed size.

    3 months later
    #145 5 years ago

    So I bought the $650 dual extruder from monoprice:

    Printed a few things, then started having display issues (every other column on the display was bright/dark), and also when print jobs started, the display would start showing garbled text. Read a bunch of forums, even the $1200 flashforge printer (that this printer was copied directly from) sometimes suffers the same issue. There's 2 causes:
    1. static shock (dry house) can zap the display
    2. The EMI from the motors can trick the display into thinking it's receiving new data

    Monoprice has a very good return policy, and they had no issue with giving me an RMA number and a shipping label to return a 46lb printer and ship me a new one 2 days after they received mine back.

    New printer is working great. I always discharge myself on the outer case before inserting the SD card (I may buy either a wifi card or an SD extender. And before assembling it, I opened up the bottom and wrapped the data cables in foil tape so they are shielded from noise.

    One thing EVERYONE with a printer should invest in is simplify3d software. It does a great job of break-away supports, creates Gcode very quickly, and is very easy to use (and I've had no issues of PLA not sticking to the bed). I'm running a part right now on the fastest speed, and it's sticking fine and the quality is still good.

    #148 5 years ago
    Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

    What's the coolest thing you've printed so far?

    I make LCD mods, but until now I've been contracting the 3d printing work out. It's nice to be able to quickly print whatever I need now.

    The AC/DC bezel I designed came out the best so far:

    2 months later
    #151 5 years ago
    Quoted from bpull:

    Wanted to share another cool thing I did with my printer using an Xbox kinect. I 3D scanned my brother in law and then printed him. LOL I used a free program call skanect which works with the 360 kinect hooked to your computer. You can also scan objects! Here are some images from our goofing around.

    I haven't looked into this in a while, the early kinect software was crappy. I'll have to try this one.

    #152 5 years ago

    well that was fun.. still can't get xbox360 kinect to work. Downloaded the drivers, the SDK, then the scanect software, can't detect the cameras. I have plenty of cpu and a compatible nvidea video card.

    #154 5 years ago
    Quoted from bpull:

    What windows are you using? I'm using windows 7 on a 64 bit system.

    me too

    #156 5 years ago
    Quoted from bpull:

    Are you using the external power cord with it? It won't work just being plugged into the usb port

    Yes, the plug on the camera isn't even usb, it's some proprietary connector that looks similiar to usb. I wonder if I just have a bum camera? The LED on the camera turns on, but I get snow on both lenses inside the program.

    1 week later
    #163 5 years ago

    Every printer suffers from poor internal diameters (I think the material shrinks as it cools). However, it sounds like it's a flat disc, plus 4mm sounds like a big difference. I would check to make sure the 3d file you made is modeled correctly. If you give me measurements I can model it up and export to STL to see if the files differ?

    #166 5 years ago
    Quoted from woody24:

    The Disk I'm trying to make needs to have an outside diameter of 18.16mm. With an inside diameter of 16.6m. Which would leave an outside wall of .78mm. Total height for the test doesn't matter, but Im making it 4mm with about 1.5mm base. So inside cavity height would be 2.5mm.

    see if this makes a difference?

    3 weeks later
    #171 5 years ago

    I installed glass with 3m transfer tape. However I have issues of sticking even with a heated bed so I either add a thin PEI sheet or use buildtak sheets. So far build tak sticks the best and doesn't seem to be wearing

    #173 5 years ago
    Quoted from herg:

    Are you saying you prefer the Build tak instead of glass? You're not using it over glass, are you?

    Yes.. Mine has an aluminum platform, and I think it's not completely flat (unlike the glass). I even tried doing the glue stick on glass, I got mixed results. PEI works good for about the first 10-15 builds until it starts to scratch. I've had very good luck with buildtak.

    2 months later
    #179 5 years ago
    Quoted from Meph:

    What is that you are using on top of your bed?

    I would imagine it's PEI, truly magical material. Go on amazon to get a sheet and cut it to size with a pair of good scissors:
    amazon.com link »

    #181 5 years ago
    Quoted from Meph:

    Thanks, I will give it a try.

    Don't forget to get some 3M 9474 double sided adhesive to mount it:
    amazon.com link »

    If over time the surface stops sticking, lightly sand it with 600grit sandpaper

    7 months later
    #188 4 years ago

    So I'm on a prusa i3 Mk2 now which I'm loving. total workhorse, parts come out so clean. Even though it works great, I'm considering some upgrades:
    1. Want to look for a quieter extruder fan
    2. The linear bearings (LM8uu) are known to be low quality and a loose fit. This not only creates noise, but wobble which technically should effect prints with the 3 bed bearings. The good linear bearings cost upwards of $12 and they can still dry out (needs re-lubrication after so long). Some claim the 3d printed bushings are better but I have reservations. I've seen recommendations and videos showing that self-lubricating bronze bushings are actually better. They don't make bushings in the same size (8mm ID x 15mm OD x 24mm), however they do make 8mm x 10 x 8mm long bushings. I found someone on ebay selling 10 for $5.60 shipped, which is half the cost of mcmaster. I'm going to 3d print a sleeve that will stack 3 of them and maintain the same outer diameter.

    The spool holder they include sucks ass (doesn't hold the spool well at all, I had one incident where it actually fell off mid-print and messed up my bed calibration). I built this shelf that feeds filament over bearing pulleys I designed and 3d printed:

    spool rack (resized).jpg

    #189 4 years ago

    At some point I want to build an enclosure with a charcoal filter on top so it can filter out particles when printing ABS. This instructable is great because they start with two cheap ikea tables that are only $8 a piece. Add some polycarbonate walls and a door on hinges, and you have something very practical and cheap.. I also like that they added a digital temperature readout for inside temperature, and LED strip lights:

    ikea_enclosure (resized).jpg

    1 month later
    #192 4 years ago
    Quoted from Half_Life:

    I just placed an order for a Prusa i3 Mk2s kit. Current backlog is about 7weeks but I've waited much longer for a pinball machine

    Good on you.. The kit isn't hard per say, it's just a lot of hours. I think you'll be quite happy with it, I love mine. A few tips:

    1. Make sure you get the belts tight, but not too tight (especially on the y-axis otherwise it won't be able to hit the stop switch)
    2. Make sure you connect everything correctly in the pcb. The wires can get crowded, but it's important you get it right
    3. Good xyz alignment isn't completely necessary, but I think you'll get better prints by gettting it as close as you can
    4. You'll want to print a better spool holder almost right away, the one they give you sucks
    5. If your prints stop sticking, lightly sand the PEI surface and clean with alcohol.

    #194 4 years ago
    Quoted from Half_Life:

    The engineer in me makes me analyze stuff to death before making a decision like this

    Me too.. I looked at dozens of printers before I bought my monoprice. When it started developing z-wobble issues after a year, I was even more cautious. If you look on 3dhubs, this printer is #3 in the list:

    Quoted from Half_Life:

    I've been practicing on the software now to get over the learning curve. Any good suggestion/tips there? Are there better software solutions that what is offered by Prusa?

    I'm used to simplify3d (which costs $150). However S3D hasn't been keeping up with the latest features. Prusa has created an optimized version of Slic3r:

    I've played with it, but find it hard to switch over (mostly because I can't seem to find a setting that tells me build time and cost estimate)

    #196 4 years ago

    One more general tip (especially with PLA). Although PLA extrudes between 180-220C, that doesn't mean it will print optimally anywhere in that range.

    Some claim you should print at the lowest setting possible (just enough to extrude). This is false in my experience. You want it hot enough to not only extrude, but join the next layer with the previous one (you also want it hot enough for the first layer to stick good).. Too hot and you could get stringing. Simplify3d defaults to 200C, I find I get better results at 210C. Of course every manufacturer can also vary slightly.

    #199 4 years ago
    Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

    Fusion 360. Free and awesome.

    Agreed. If I wasn't already using solidworks I would use this. If I couldn't acquire a solidworks license for home, id train myself to get used to fusion360

    2 weeks later
    #208 4 years ago

    Ben heck interviewed at a 3d printer show.. The best is towards the end when he talks about the filament drag

    6 months later
    #214 3 years ago

    If anyone is looking into doing some 3d scanning, I found this program recently called 3DF Zephyr. No software is going to give you the detail and accuracy of a laser or white light scanner, but for photogrammetry this is the best program I've used (both in detail and ease of use):

    #216 3 years ago

    just started using free version. did a rough scan of my face which wasnt great, but i was just holding my phone and pivoting it around my head. if i had a track setup it should come out good. very easy to delete background artifacts.

    1 week later
    #217 3 years ago

    Lots of new 3d printers at CES this year:

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