I haven't looked into this in a while, the early kinect software was crappy. I'll have to try this one.

well that was fun.. still can't get xbox360 kinect to work. Downloaded the drivers, the SDK, then the scanect software, can't detect the cameras. I have plenty of cpu and a compatible nvidea video card.

What windows are you using? I'm using windows 7 on a 64 bit system.

Brian

me too

Are you using the external power cord with it? It won't work just being plugged into the usb port.

brian

Yes, the plug on the camera isn't even usb, it's some proprietary connector that looks similiar to usb. I wonder if I just have a bum camera? The LED on the camera turns on, but I get snow on both lenses inside the program.

Will it work on your xbox360? maybe you can hook it up and do a test on the 360 itself. that might confirm if it's the camera or some setup issue with the computer. That would also allow you to update the driver within the Kinect itself through the xbox360.

Brian

I haven't pulled the trigger on my own printer, but I just finished a project using the printers at the local library. Well, for the tool head, I ended up using Shapeways to print stainless steel for strength, but the prototyping was done using the FDM printer. It's a tool to build IDC cables faster.

The finished tool

The tool head

Here's a video of the first time I was using it. I was a bit tenative, and it was tough getting the wires lined up. I have since gotten much better at lining up wires and using the tool.

Here's my setup

1463492459259.jpg

monoprice now has a $199 printer:
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=107&cs_id=1072403&cp_id=10724&p_id=15365&seq=1&format=2&cl=res&utm_source=160526_email_seg_miniselect&utm_medium=email&utm_content=selectmini_hero&utm_campaign=160526_mpselectmini_segmented

Granted the volume is only a 4.7" cube, it has a heated bed. Not a bad entry level printer for printing small objects.

I've got a question. I've got the Monoprice dual extruder printer, and have been trying to create a simple object. Basically it's a disk to hold a coin. I've got accurate measurements of the coin, and I built the 3D object in SketchUp to the size specs that I want. But when I go to print, the diameter of the disk is smaller than it's supposed to be by about 4mms. But the height is spot on. But when I print out pre-made test objects to verify that those are printing out the size they need to be, the sizes are in fact the correct size.

My first thought was that the printer bed was improperly selected in the slicing software, but those test prints don't have any problems.

I can't figure it out.

Every printer suffers from poor internal diameters (I think the material shrinks as it cools). However, it sounds like it's a flat disc, plus 4mm sounds like a big difference. I would check to make sure the 3d file you made is modeled correctly. If you give me measurements I can model it up and export to STL to see if the files differ?

Shrinking was my first thought too. But again, was too much difference. Other stuff printed correct dimensions, so I figured my measurements were off. After re-doing it several times, I still couldn't figure out where I'm going wrong.

The Disk I'm trying to make needs to have an outside diameter of 18.16mm. With an inside diameter of 16.6m. Which would leave an outside wall of .78mm. Total height for the test doesn't matter, but Im making it 4mm with about 1.5mm base. So inside cavity height would be 2.5mm.

Attached is a photo of one I printed for reference.

2016-05-26_19.03.17_(resized).jpg

I print in ABS, and for small diameter holes, I have to increase their size by around 15 to 20%.

see if this makes a difference?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ey8er1tmukglpgq/coin_holder.STL?dl=0

Awesome! Thanks! Will try it out this weekend.

Okay, so it's pretty consistent. While I was WAY off in my memory of it being off by 4mm, it's still consistent to being off with my tests. So I guess I'll just adjust my files be the amount they are off then. Wanted to make sure I had a constant before I "hacked" the size, and still not understand why it would be off. I like to understand why things to work before I go fixing them. So I guess this fall under the category that it's just not accurate enough at that size.

Which I don't really understand, because I printed a Micro SD holder that has slots, and they fit perfectly in that, and those are smaller that these coins.

Your post pushed me over the edge. I decided to step up to the Maker Select, but I hadn't looked at Monoprice until your post, and I've had the printer a week now.

I came back here to see what you guys had to say about using a sheet of glass on the bed. The printer community in general seems to prefer it, and you guys seem to say the same. I guess I should just go ahead and buy it rather than internally debating it.

I bought a sheet of glass, but haven't installed it yet because I didn't realize how damn hard it was to find binder clips that aren't bedazzled and $5 a piece in the local stores.

I installed glass with 3m transfer tape. However I have issues of sticking even with a heated bed so I either add a thin PEI sheet or use buildtak sheets. So far build tak sticks the best and doesn't seem to be wearing

Mine came with Build tak installed, and I'll agree that it does work well for the most part. Bigger parts, however, I get curling on the corners unless I print with a raft. I guess that's not too big of a problem.

Are you saying you prefer the Build tak instead of glass? You're not using it over glass, are you?

Yes.. Mine has an aluminum platform, and I think it's not completely flat (unlike the glass). I even tried doing the glue stick on glass, I got mixed results. PEI works good for about the first 10-15 builds until it starts to scratch. I've had very good luck with buildtak.

I recently bought a Zortrax m200 and couldn't be happier. It just works and I haven't had any failed prints. It is a bit of a locked down system with the slicer and ABS spools, but I am totally fine with that given the results.

Finally got my new extended bed installed!

20160806_155559_(resized).jpg

If someone needs a 1kg roll of Makerbot black ABS, let me know.

What is that you are using on top of your bed? I am still using painters tape. I am about to pull the trigger on the X axis upgrade and heated bed myself.

I would imagine it's PEI, truly magical material. Go on amazon to get a sheet and cut it to size with a pair of good scissors:
amazon.com link »

Thanks, I will give it a try.

Don't forget to get some 3M 9474 double sided adhesive to mount it:
amazon.com link »

If over time the surface stops sticking, lightly sand it with 600grit sandpaper

How long does one of those last?

How do you remove a print from a Kapton sheet? Right now I am using blue painter's tape and my prints adhere VERY well. Sometimes I can pull them off with decent force, sometimes I use a blade just under them to pry them off. The blade method damages the tape and I wouldn't want to do it on an $11 Kapton sheet.

Wolfmarsh is right, Kapton. Came with the bed upgrade.

So I'm on a prusa i3 Mk2 now which I'm loving. total workhorse, parts come out so clean. Even though it works great, I'm considering some upgrades:
1. Want to look for a quieter extruder fan
2. The linear bearings (LM8uu) are known to be low quality and a loose fit. This not only creates noise, but wobble which technically should effect prints with the 3 bed bearings. The good linear bearings cost upwards of $12 and they can still dry out (needs re-lubrication after so long). Some claim the 3d printed bushings are better but I have reservations. I've seen recommendations and videos showing that self-lubricating bronze bushings are actually better. They don't make bushings in the same size (8mm ID x 15mm OD x 24mm), however they do make 8mm x 10 x 8mm long bushings. I found someone on ebay selling 10 for $5.60 shipped, which is half the cost of mcmaster. I'm going to 3d print a sleeve that will stack 3 of them and maintain the same outer diameter.

The spool holder they include sucks ass (doesn't hold the spool well at all, I had one incident where it actually fell off mid-print and messed up my bed calibration). I built this shelf that feeds filament over bearing pulleys I designed and 3d printed:

spool rack (resized).jpg

At some point I want to build an enclosure with a charcoal filter on top so it can filter out particles when printing ABS. This instructable is great because they start with two cheap ikea tables that are only $8 a piece. Add some polycarbonate walls and a door on hinges, and you have something very practical and cheap.. I also like that they added a digital temperature readout for inside temperature, and LED strip lights:
http://www.instructables.com/id/3d-Printer-Enclosure-from-Upcycled-Furniture/

ikea_enclosure (resized).jpg

After a long bit of research, I've jumped on the 3D printer bandwagon. I just placed an order for a Prusa i3 Mk2s kit. Current backlog is about 7weeks but I've waited much longer for a pinball machine. Looking forward to learning something new.

Good on you.. The kit isn't hard per say, it's just a lot of hours. I think you'll be quite happy with it, I love mine. A few tips:

1. Make sure you get the belts tight, but not too tight (especially on the y-axis otherwise it won't be able to hit the stop switch)
2. Make sure you connect everything correctly in the pcb. The wires can get crowded, but it's important you get it right
3. Good xyz alignment isn't completely necessary, but I think you'll get better prints by gettting it as close as you can
4. You'll want to print a better spool holder almost right away, the one they give you sucks
5. If your prints stop sticking, lightly sand the PEI surface and clean with alcohol.

Thanks for the tips! I'm a bit slow on getting into something. The engineer in me makes me analyze stuff to death before making a decision like this. I think this machine will fit my needs just fine as I learn. Also considering the Multi Materials upgrade.

Even though the machine won't be here for a while, I've been practicing on the software now to get over the learning curve. Any good suggestion/tips there? Are there better software solutions that what is offered by Prusa?

Me too.. I looked at dozens of printers before I bought my monoprice. When it started developing z-wobble issues after a year, I was even more cautious. If you look on 3dhubs, this printer is #3 in the list:
https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers

I'm used to simplify3d (which costs $150). However S3D hasn't been keeping up with the latest features. Prusa has created an optimized version of Slic3r:
http://www.prusaprinters.org/introducing-slic3r-prusa-edition/

I've played with it, but find it hard to switch over (mostly because I can't seem to find a setting that tells me build time and cost estimate)

I started with a RepRap i3 kit. Works good. Bought a DaVinci jr on a black Friday sale. Works ok. Software sucks, but it works.
We'll likely be experimenting with a smartrap mini design next.

One more general tip (especially with PLA). Although PLA extrudes between 180-220C, that doesn't mean it will print optimally anywhere in that range.

Some claim you should print at the lowest setting possible (just enough to extrude). This is false in my experience. You want it hot enough to not only extrude, but join the next layer with the previous one (you also want it hot enough for the first layer to stick good).. Too hot and you could get stringing. Simplify3d defaults to 200C, I find I get better results at 210C. Of course every manufacturer can also vary slightly.

Any suggestions on 3D modeling software? I've goofed around with SketchUp but it was not for 3D printing purposes.

Agreed. If I wasn't already using solidworks I would use this. If I couldn't acquire a solidworks license for home, id train myself to get used to fusion360

I found openSCAD to be more intuitive for me. Scripting a part rather than drawing it.
http://www.openscad.org/