I found these three stray leads near the menu buttons in my Jungle Lord:

green/brown
white/violet
teal(darker green)/brown

The two green leads were bound together by a wire nut, which seemed to me to be obvious hackery.

I looked on Pinwiki and found no schematic for the cabinet wiring, but on IPDB I did find at least one page with *some* information. (See below.)

My credit button doesn't work. This isn't surprising because there is a free lug on that switch that has residual solder, so I'm assuming one of these stray leads was originally attached to that lug but somehow came free. The schematic shows the green/brown wire's circuit containing a few things, including the plumb bob, the coin chutes, and - lo' and behold! - the credit button. The white/violet wire is associated with the slam tilt. I can live without that, but I need all three menu buttons!

I soldered the green/brown lead to that free lug on the credit-button switch, thinking it would recover the credit button. It did not.

Where can I find a wiring diagram to guide me getting these leads back to where they belong?

Thanks for reading my post. Any ideas/suggestions would be much appreciated.

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IMG_0493 (resized).jpg

JL.schema (resized).png

I thought the left menu button is called a “credit” button. Is the credit button in fact the “start” button on the cabinet?
The dysfunctional button is the first of the three menu buttons, not the start button.
An image of its current wiring is posted above. A green arrow points to the affected switch.
Thanks for your reply.

I apologize for my imprecise description.
My credit button in the cabinet is working.
The first (left) menu button is *not* working. I still need a wiring diagram of those three switches. Rikoshay believes it appears below the section pictured above, but I’m not seeing it. Honestly, I need a primer on the operation of those buttons as this my first Sys-7.

Thanks Rikoshay. Unfortunately, I can’t use the menu buttons to explore the game’s diagnostics until I repair the buttons’ switch wiring.

Thank you. This is great.

I do see mention of Advance and Auto-up, Manual-down, which is obviously helpful/encouraging, but I see only white, green, and blue wires in the diagram, while my switches have white, green, blue, yellow, beige, and yellow-green wires.

Thanks. Sounds within my scope.

Ah! Very helpful. It seems I have no white wire connected to the High Score button switch. Perhaps it belongs at that lug with the residual solder.

They are pictured above, or do you mean you can't identify them without seeing them from above?

Okay.

Some of it. Yes. Thanks for your time. I will compare your photo to mine and cross my fingers I have all the necessary wires present to get the buttons wired correctly again.

Good to know! Thanks.

This image comes courtesy of another JL owner. It's out of focus and hard to make out, but it's a start. Sadly, my wiring looks nothing like this, and my switches are clearly different.

Russ.Switches (resized).jpeg

Done.
Also, my meter shows continuity for each switch when its button is depressed.
Progress, sure, but I still have three stay wires: green/brown, yellow-green/brown, and white/violet. I know the white/violet is the slam tilt, but what’s it doing on this stalk of the harness, out here in the coin door?

1110EBB3-6540-4A97-88A5-8AC03D17899D (resized).jpeg

I used switch-test mode, now that I have working menu buttons, and it shows no switch errors apart from all the drops. The drop target switches are all closed because F2 (solenoids) blows every time I power up the game and thus the target banks can’t reset. Can’t find a short. Don’t know my next step.

I will do that today.

I will have to check (meter; one probe to one coil lug, the other to ground), but I assumed they weren't energized as long as F2 was blown.

This sounds dangerous to me. I have no fuse puller tool to help me install the fuse without touching either side of the socket. How would you approach it?

Hmm. I hear a slightly alarming pop when I power on (with a fresh fuse), then the game's normal hum. When I power the game on with F2 removed, it doesn't pop as loudly. I would still like to learn how to find a "locked on" coil. Will I accomplish anything by metering resistance at the lugs of each of my coils with the game powered off? Can I find the culprit that way?

My slam tilt switch is mounted to the underside of the playfield. Inside the cabinet I do have a roll tilt switch, but no slam tilt, as you appear to have. Maybe that's why my white/violet wire is stray; the switch where it belongs isn't even in the cabinet!

How's this...

0FF3D4FD-AE2F-42AD-A3CE-2FBA78FCAC12 (resized).jpeg

To review:

Power on, then enter diagnostics, then load fresh fuse in F2, then navigate to solenoid test and test coils one by one until I come to one that does NOT fire. Do I assume at that point that F2 has blown because I've attempted to fire a shorted coil? I will continue testing coils thereafter, but if none fires, I'll know the fuse is indeed blown. I just hope I can actually get to the solenoid test mode before F2 blows.

2.5A SB, but I have no 2.5A fuses on hand and have been using 3A instead.

So I may not blow F2 when I reach the culprit solenoid in test if I can shut the machine off quickly enough?

I see only one way to mount the boards in the head - and they are secured in that position. The frames to which they are attached are firmly fixed to the back of the head.

Yes. If I load a new fuse and power on the game, by the time I get to solenoid test no coil will pulse.

I noticed it. The lower edge of the MPU rests in it. I believe it "holds" the MPU place should you need to pull the driver board free without also removing the MPU. The boards are sitting flat/flush/tidy in the head. I don't suspect a misinstallation of the boards themselves, but I could be wrong.

I assume you mean J9 and J11 on the Power Driver Board.

Before I do that, let me share the results of the load-fuse-while-powered-on test.

I powered the game on, entered the lamp test, then attempted to install the fresh F2 (solenoids) fuse. The instant I tried, the first coil in the five-bank drops fired to reset the target. I pulled the fuse away instinctively, waited a second or two, touched the drop to lower it, and then tried again. Again, the first coil in the 5-bank reset the target. I then set the fuse down and advanced from the lamp test to the solenoid test, allowing it to cycle through all of them on its own. I touched the fresh fuse to the socket and, rather than hear the various solenoids pulsing, one after another, I heard only the first coil of the 5-bank resetting again.

So, what have I learned? Is there a short in the wiring of the first coil of the 5-bank solenoid, or is there a shorted control transistor for this solenoid on the Power Driver Board? I see nothing unusual under the playfield in the area of the 5-bank! No shorted wires. I'm confused - again!

Good to know. Thank you.

Correct. Only #1 is firing.

I will work on this. Thank you.

One more thing:

I disconnected J9 from the driver board, powered the game on and returned to solenoid test, hoping to get somewhere with #1 of the 5-bank out of the picture. I held the fresh fuse against the socket and the various coils pulsed, BUT...when I got to the right kicker, the coil locked and the kicker arm couldn't return to the resting position. If I pulled the fuse away and then returned it, the right kicker locked right back up, regardless of where it was in the test sequence.

So, it seems now I have a locked kicker coil and a locked drop-target reset coil. Oof. The frustrating/odd part is that the kicker was not locked initially. It had to be prompted to fire by the test before it locked. Prior to that, it lay politely dormant.

Alright, I found Q31-Q41 and tested each for continuity using the diode function of my DMM.
Q31 has continuity and none other. So, my next question is, how did this transistor short, how do I replace it (what type is it and how challenging is the soldering involved), and how likely is it that I will just short the new one after it's installed?

PDB.detail.with.shorted.transistor (resized).jpg

Is this board still available?

Please see updated post #34.

Hmm. I'm on his site now and I see what you mean. I wrote to him and asked for a list of parts - that I might order from some other source - to complete the board myself. I s'pose I will need sockets and header connectors. What else? Standoff spacers? I've never built my own board before.

** Update **

From Andrew:
"Only the blank pcb is available. You have to source out the mdl-1-1-4 fuses, 6.3mm x 32mm fuse clips and molex 0.156" connectors."
What does he mean by "mdl-1-1-4 fuses"? Where can I get these parts if Great Plains Electronics is closed?

Thanks. I will have to order these parts from Mouser and build/install this board before continuing my solenoid troubleshooting. Already shorted one transistor on the driver board with misbehaving coils.

Correct.

Correct. DMM set to continuity, one probe connected via jumper to ground braid and the other probe to the exposed tab of the transistor. "Beep!"

That's encouraging. I hope you're right.

I ask because I assume the transistor was NOT blown when the board was in the possession of the tech. He went through it and deemed it 100%. Did he miss it, or was it intact when he went through it and *I* blew it after I took possession of the rehabbed boards?

I will hope that, too. I was under the impression that coils themselves rarely fail.

I see. The one in there at Q31 is TIP120.

Do you see non-OEM solder work? I don't see if they are replaced or not.

I will ask LTG if I can use his station. I've used it before. Its pump is noisy but it works well. I just wear earmuffs.

I do, yes. I'm no ace, but my prior project (TZ) forced me to bring my soldering skills up from beginner to intermediate.

I'm encouraged. I need to make some headway on this JL project!

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Diotec-Semiconductor/2N4401?qs=OlC7AqGiEDk2778NTV4KfQ%3D%3D
Will this work?

But do you still suggest I build/install the Special Solenoid Fuse Saver board?

3875CB37-D632-4230-AF69-A3134F115512 (resized).jpeg

It took me two weeks to find the time, but I clumsily removed the shorted transistor from Q31.
I would install the replacement, but the site is a mess. I’m unable to clean it up with either the desoldering tip (700-degrees) or with a chisel tip (700-degrees) and braid. In this condition, I would worry about a short on the new transistor.
Suggestions sought.
Thanks.

1A8B63A4-73E5-4CC2-9A47-8B13437764E6 (resized).jpeg

Got it. Thanks. Braid with cheap iron got much of the added solder up. New transistor installed but looking terrible. Very hard to flow solder neatly and within boundaries when the neighboring pin is 2mm away.
On the left is mine (perhaps obviously).

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Thanks, JT. PM sent.

I installed the PDB in the head and powered up the game.
The first solenoid in the 5-bank of drops immediately locked on as before.
I’m using a 3A circuit breaker on the power-supply board at F2 (solenoids). I turned the game off within four seconds after powering on and the breaker didn’t trip in that short time. Clearly I still have a short.
Looking at my wiring - again! - I may have finally spotted something obvious.
I suspect you will, too.
D’oh!
The coil seems wrong altogether. It’s swimming in its pocket. Manual says Sa5-24-750-dc. I have an AE-24-900 on hand. If I add a diode, can I use it to replace the oddball coil?

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I'm sad to report that the suspect coil at #1 did indeed have a diode - it was just attached on the opposite side and was invisible until I pulled the coil! I will investigate the short against the assembly though. I didn't see that. The suspect coil has weird dimensions. I'm not surprised its lugs sit lower. The overall length of that coil is about 3mm shorter than the others, and thus it rattles about, even when the stop is torqued to spec. I will photograph the new coil in position tomorrow and we will see if the lugs are safely above the bracket.
Thanks for your help.

I powered the game on and the #1 coil in the 5-bank did NOT lock on as it had to this point. However, the right sling coil is still locking on the instant the game powers on. It remains energized continuously, causing a slight odor. It’s not quite an odor of combustion, but it’s probably not a healthy odor either. I have the Special Solenoid Fuse-Saver board, but it’s just a blank board at this point. I still need to order the balance of its parts and build it.

A0040401-20F0-4727-A6D6-FD2C60580F95 (resized).jpeg

I'm trying to get the sling coil to stop locking on.

I believe it! I just need to learn what those reasons might be, so I can troubleshoot this myself.

I have a DMM and a large assortment of common hand tools for pin maintenance and repair.

Got it. Thanks for the advice. I have since bought a circuit-breaker fuse saver and that is now in F2 on the power-supply board.

I'm looking at my wiring for the right sling and it could well be miswired. It's a bit complicated there (to me), with an unusual/fat/marked diode on just one of the two switches on each side. If I were a betting man, I would wager that my coil is locking on because the sling switches are miswired. Below are two photos. If I had a proper wiring diagram, I might study it and figure out if this is miswired or not. I will post these to the JL owners group and ask if someone can possibly share a photo of his/her wiring on a sling that is working.
171FA2A5-570C-4C4D-99FE-43D15B7374C9 (resized).jpeg6E09B780-3E92-461F-9FC9-9EBDA60FA014 (resized).jpeg

Rickoshay helped me find a dead transistor at Q31 on the PDB, which I have now replaced. If my problem lies in the driving transistors, how do I find the dead one(s) if not with a continuity test?

Okay, I just did this. Sling coil still locking at power up.

Can you suggest how I would troubleshoot the driving path? Do I try another PDB altogether? I don't know how to troubleshoot dead transistors - or any other component in the driving path - apart from the simple continuity test taught to me by Rickoshay.

I see. Thanks.

I'll work on this. Hopefully LTG is willing to loan me his logic probe.

I've never used this tool, so I will need a lesson from LTG. Again, hopefully he has time. To be clear, all these possible failures are on the PDB, correct?

Sounds promising. I will keep you posted. Thanks for your help.

I have the proper logic probe now, on loan from LTG.
It does have a "Logic" setting and seems to have adequate battery life.
I also have a PDB logic diagram and a PDB schematic, thanks to Steve at Pinball Resource.
I have never used a logic probe. I found one pinball-related introduction to the logic probe on YouTube from Pinball Mayhem, but frankly I learned little more than the fact that the tool can be used to test for 5V ("high") or zero volts ("low").
30FABED0-6960-4183-8E4E-62A819BBA886 (resized).jpeg7FB87841-AE9D-40D7-B07E-1FE7B1873978 (resized).jpegAB48C479-50D2-4AAF-9227-BCB2C2E67FAA (resized).jpeg

Could you please be more specific? I assume I connect the ground lead to any ground in the head, and then use the probe on things like driver transistors or pre-driver transistors. Am I looking for 5V? Where does this voltage come from if the game is off and the tool is passive?

2523252B-517C-4B9C-B352-EEA4A4AEE545 (resized).jpeg

2D1B1C40-1BB4-4EA2-8C07-2509AF4F404D (resized).jpeg

2J9? Are you sure? It’s marked “Solenoid Drive” in the manual.

Lower right.

Thank you. That's very helpful. My switch is wired nearly identically. The only the difference is that the capacitor is attached at the first and third lug, and the resistor at the second and third. Can I assume that's an acceptable variation?

I reconnected 2J13 and disconnected 2J12 and powered on the game. Sling coil did NOT lock on.
Does this point to playfield wiring and away from the PDB?

Correct.

I have no stock of these caps or transistors, but I might be able to twist LTG's arm for a couple. I rebuilt these slings because the stock switches looked like hell and the kickers were pitifully sloppy. Soldering them back together with the original electrical parts was challenging. Could I have damaged either the cap or the transistor? I labeled everything and was careful to reassemble them to spec. Perhaps I missed something on the right side.

If I gave you that impression, I apologize. With 2J12 removed, the coil does NOT lock.

I do NOT have continuity at Q4 or at any other driver transistor since I replaced the one at Q31.

Oh. What could cause this? I would love to toss a tested PDB into my game to see if my PDB is indeed bad, despite being freshly rehabbed.

Thank you, JT, for your numerous/helpful suggestions. I will work on this tomorrow as I have no daylight to work with now.

Thanks for your interest.

Well, I do have numerous issues with a game whose boards were just rehabbed, that's true, but the focus right now is just on the locking, lower-right sling solenoid. The #1 solenoid in the 5-bank drop targets was also locking up, but it was sorted by replacing it with a coil that actually fit in the assembly properly, beating a short. It's also true that I have an abbreviated sound library - as in, many of the game's sounds are never heard - and I have no speech, but I can't explore that further until I can actually play a game.

I honestly don't know the extent of this game's issues because I have only succeeded in putting it into test or attract modes. I don't dare start a game as long as there's a locking coil as I worry I will take out a driver transistor on the driver board. I believe I have dealt with the short causing the drop-bank coil to lock, and I have at least improved the menu-button wiring, but that's about all the progress I've been able to make, despite getting a lot of help from a lot of very knowledgeable/generous Pinsiders.

Hi, DA. Now I understand the irony of your Pinside handle! Whoa!

Sounds like I urgently need to test that transistor, but just how do I do that? Which of the three legs do I probe in the continuity setting on my DMM?

If my coil locks on the instant the machine is powered on, rather than waiting for either game mode or test mode, is my problem still in the boards?

Okay, so I need to test the pre-drive and drive transistors associated with that solenoid and "7402"? Where do I find IC8?

I have disconnected 2J13 (still locking on startup) and 2J12 (no longer locking on startup) and 2J9 (no longer locking), separately.

This may be the crux of it. Still, I would like to test those three components referenced above, but I don't know how to test the pre-driver or IC8.

Thanks for your helpful - if very technical - reply. I will work on it and report my findings when I can. I have a few things on my plate this week but I will get to it soon. Your time is much appreciated!

Posted by Harvino ten years ago:

“The proper way to test is to set your dmm to diode test (usually 2k setting on the ohm scale). Transistors have three legs; an emitter, a base, and a collector. If you look very closely at the transistor, right above the legs on the black plastic you'll probably see the letters e b c. Determine which leg is the base. Put the black lead on the base leg (middle leg, I think) and then touch the red lead to the other two legs, if either one reads zero the transistor is bad.“

So, with my DMM set to diode/continuity:

Driver transistor at Q4:

Black lead to middle leg, red lead to left leg - 0.110
Black lead to middle leg, red lead to right leg - 0.651

No alternate probe combination results in "0V.” Is a value of 0.110 close enough to 0V to pronounce the transistor shorted?

** Update **

Q4 is now out. Cleaned up old solder with copper braid, not with a proper vacuum tip or solder sucker. It’s not pretty at high magnification, but I think it will suffice

New TIP102 now installed in Q4.
Measures 0.550 on the left, 0.675 on the right. Time to put the boards back in.

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Encouraging!

Testing the pre-driver is difficult. My DMM's probes have points, sure, but keeping them away from each other when probing those three tiny legs of the transistor is difficult.

My diodes are not your ordinary "banded" variety. They look like transistors, with no fewer than four bands - three gold, one black. The black band is closer to the switch lug that shares the capacitor. I put my DMM probes to it in forward-bias orientation (red to anode, black to cathode, and with the assumption that the black band marks the cathode end), with the meter set to "Diode," and it reads 0.101. It does NOT read 0.5, as I suspected it would. The diode for the opposite sling is identical and also measures 0.101 with the probes in forward-bias orientation.

Not surprisingly, this is a real worry of mine. Please weigh in on the attached closeup photo. I would like to be more certain about my switch wiring *before* I power on the game. I do have a few common diodes on hand, all of which measure 0.550 with my DMM. Is it necessary to swap them into these switches?

IMG_0649.with.arrow (resized).jpg

I did NOT replace the 2N4401, but I metered it and got 0.571 on the left and 1.101 on the right.

The sling solenoid does NOT energize when the game is powered on or when I enter diagnostics. It does however pulse in the solenoid-test (02) mode, although the pulses for all the solenoids are so brief as to be abbreviated, so it's hard to see the sling ring move as you would expect it to. With the game in switch-test (03) mode, I tested the sling solenoid action with a rolling ball on the playfield, and the right sling is NOT working normally. It doesn't push through its range, and if a ball meets the sling ring and closes either switch, it is pushed away with a fraction of the appropriate oomph. Follow the link below to see a video clip and compare the foundering right solenoid to what appears to be a normal left:

Does this kind of malfunction point to my switch wiring or to my coil?

Oh, and a BIG thanks to all of you who speculated that the TIP122 at Q4 was causing my sling solenoid to lock on upon powering up. You were CORRECT!

Thanks.

Oops. That's a bit embarrassing. Not sure where my head was. Sorry.

Also embarrassing. Or course that's a resistor and not a diode! What am I thinking?

I'm sure LTG has told me this a few times already. Can't explain why I'm unable to remember that. Again, sorry to be out to lunch.

Done.

Cathode faces power-supply lug, so I think we're good.

The others nearby test almost identically.

Right. Thanks.

Unless my eyes are fooling me, they appear to kick identically when pulsed by the software in test mode.

My switches are new and gapped normally. They close with a normal amount of ring travel and open when the ring resets. Could my cap or resistor be to blame? I will try to hold the switch closed briefly with my thumb on the ring and see if the kicker truly kicks and freezes in the extended position.

Thanks again for your time.

Is it? My sling coil doesn't energize normally at all when the switch is closed. It flutters.

Got it. The left side fires sharply and fully. The right side flutters and barely pushes the ring away.

They do not.

Both are WMS 23-850's - the spec'd coil.

I will check that next. Thanks.

Resistance at both sling coils is 4.9 Ohms.

There is another, troubling development however:
My LEFT sling coil is now locking on at power-up. Its TIP122 is original. It sits at Q2 and is NOT shorted. It was installed so close to the board that I can’t get my probes in there to test the resistance at the legs. I s’pose I will have to pull the boards again.

I can't find these parts referenced anywhere to steer me to the right replacements. I'm not able to find something identical from Mouser Electronics. The cap has the following markings:

16VDC
22MFD
8025
85-degrees C
JW11

The resistor has four bands. From bulbous end to straight-shank end: gold/black/gold/gold.

I did find a solenoid wiring schematic and it *may* shed light on this. You would know better than I, so I'm posting it here.
957EC6B5-ACEE-4011-B265-E3D55EFEBE3C (resized).jpeg

This is where you lost me.
I have found IC6 and IC8.
Thankfully they are socketed.
They are new, perhaps installed by the tech who rehabbed the board. 9009’s, not 7408’s.
How do I test them using the logic probe?
I found this on Marco's:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/7408
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Thanks for your helpful post. For the moment I am waiting for the parts to build the Spec. Solenoid Saver Board from Weebly and for the transistors, capacitors, and resistors I will need to address my PDB and my spec. solenoid trigger switches. I want to get the saver board in place before I power up the game. I also want the TIP122 at Q2 replaced before that, too. I will report back soon. Thank you for your time as usual!

Hello again to anyone who might possibly still be listening.

It's been seven months since I worked on this game. It took me much less time to procure the parts to build the special-solenoid saver board, but somehow I only got around to it this past weekend, so...

There are some developments.

First, the saver board is installed and loaded with 1.25A fuses.

I powered on the game and went into diagnostics, hoping to check all the solenoids, although I know the key one to check - the right kicker - is "special" and not part of the array of coils tested in diagnostics. They seemed to work, although the magnet relays were inaudible and I couldn't be sure if they closed/opened at all (their fuses underneath the playfield are good). Moreover, all of my switches checked out, so I attempted to start a game. The machine appeared to start a game correctly, feeding a ball into the shooter lane and standing the one, central drop target in the five-bank, but I had no flipper power. I turned the machine off and checked the fuse related to flippers/magnets on the power-supply board - F3 - and it's good. All the fuses on the game are good EXCEPT the one on the new saver board that corresponds to 2J12-9 on the special solenoids connector on the PD board. It had already blown!

I can't identify which solenoid is powered by 2J12-9. If I look in the power-driver board diagram in the schematics supplement from Steve at Pinball Resource, I see "Switch-triggered Solenoid 6 Drive."
If I then find solenoid #6 in the instruction booklet's solenoid table, I see #6 is the buzzer, which seems to work in test. Also, the solenoid table reads "grey-blue" wire for #6, but the wire from 2J12-9 is NOT grey-blue.

So, as much as I would like to have a concise question to pose to you/anyone who will listen to help me finally get this game playing, I really do not. It was suggested to me by a veteran tech, regarding the flippers, that I check power leaving the power-supply board, but I am intimidated by the PS board when the game is on owing to dangers of electrocution. At least I can't destroy any more driver transistors with my special-solenoid issue as I now have the saver board installed. So there's that! Still, it seems I've added an issue involving the flipper solenoids, which is *not* so good.

One last thing: I do have a replacement power-supply board from PinballPCB. I haven't unpacked it. I was hoping my original board would be serviceable. I mean, the original has a minor hack in the lower right, but otherwise it should be sound/viable.

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IMG_1487(1) (resized).jpg

Oh, gosh! I'm impressed that you decoded that! Wow.

The driver transistor at Q12 (per the solenoid table above) meters 0.6 on either side, with the meter set to diode mode and the negative probe touching the base. Those readings match those of its neighbors, so I assume it's good.

Before I go turning the machine on and blowing all of my 1.25A fuses in this troubleshoot, I would like to know if I can use a 3A circuit breaker that I recently bought as part of a set of circuit breakers for arcade machines. I realize 3A is not 1.25A, but if I have a ground short, can't I troubleshoot that with a 3A circuit breaker?

Lastly, my right magnet relay was silent in test yesterday, but the wiring involved with the relay, the wire tree, and the magnet itself, all looks intact and original. Would a bad relay blow that fuse on the saver board?

I can't in fact replace this transistor as I bought NPN TIP122's and not PNP's! So, all of my replacements will have to be sent back to Digi-Key for an exchange.

Blue and black - that's the wire at 2J12-9. So, you are right! Oddly, the wire at the relay is more of a baby blue with black bands, not royal blue with a black tracer as it is on the wire at the PDB's connector.

I loaded a fresh fuse in the saver board, associated with J212-9, and it blew upon startup. I believe you said this points to a fried driver transistor, but Q12 tests okay, along with the smaller transistor right above it.

Also notable: when I booted the game, I heard a solenoid energize, but, wherever it was, it did NOT lock on. I assume it didn't lock on because it belongs to the "special" group of solenoids and blew the fuse on the saver board rather than lock up. What I can't make sense of is that the blown fuse is associated with a magnet relay, not with a solenoid. Also strange is how the instruction manual's table of solenoids, under "Connections," reads 2P12-9, 8P3-22, 8P6-16. I can't find any "2P" connector on any board. Could this be a typo?

Well, the new fuse blew within a second or two upon starting up, so perhaps a direct short to ground is to blame. I believe I've been here before. Now, as then, I really don't know how to find a short other than the kind that results from an exposed wire touching the wrong thing under the playfield.

Hi.
Thanks for noticing this thread.
Please tell me what you mean by "lifting" wires.
And can you tell me a more efficient way to "check" for a short without eating through fuses? I have a basic DMM.

Hi.

Yeah, my board might look odd, but the pin sequence isn't altered, despite some flipping of the connectors. For example, the wire that ordinarily goes to J212-1 now goes to the saver board at #9, exits the saver board at the pin directly opposite #9, and then returns to J212-1. So, all the wires are effectively connected in the same order to J212 as they were without the board. I believe this is how the board was designed. Every wire from the original connector at J212 is ultimately returned to J212 in the same position, passthrough style.

I'm afraid to take the saver board out and power on the machine, since it's clear that I have a short and I don't want to fry another drive transistor. It took me forever to replace the last one that failed, and my soldering hasn't gotten any better since then.

Hi.

I do have a set of Troxel's breakers, but his set spans 3A - 20A, so I have none for this 1A situation.

I have Steve's (Pinball Resource) schematics supplement, although I don't know how complete it is. I have referenced it frequently in this thread.

Again, I don't know how to test for a short apart from loading a new fuse and watching it blow. I have never used my DMM to test for a short.

I have the assembly drawing and the logic diagram.

Yes. These boards aren't currently available from Weebly assembled.

I'll try it now, but I will have to be vigilant to turn the game off if a solenoid locks on the instant the game powers up.

Alright, I'll try this right now.

I returned the J212 connector to the driver board, taking the saver board out of the picture, then powered on the game.
The left sling immediately locked on and I quickly turned off the game.

I’ve now experienced BOTH the left and right slings locking on at startup, although never together.

Would a bad capacitor on the sling switches cause this issue?

Perhaps not; a test of the drive transistor for the left sling shows that it has failed.
Time to take the PDB out yet again and replace the transistor.

Oops. Tragically, my headers are flipped.
Guess I have to desolder them and flip them. Thanks for the helpful photos and explanation.

The predriver is so tiny that replacing it may prove even more challenging than replacing the TIP102.

I ordered a fistful of TIP122’s from Digi-Key, but I just discovered they are NPN and not PNP. Looking now on Digi-Key’s site, I can’t find NPN’s

This machine has been nothing BUT practice since it arrived here sixteen months ago. I haven’t been able to play a single game on it.

Zero in stock. Thanks though.

Thanks for the encouragement.
Can’t even get the headers off the saver board to flip them. My Soldapultt ain’t doin’ it. I’ve sucked all I can after ten or more sucks per pin but it won’t release.

Really?
I'm tired now, but I will look again tomorrow at how I might do this. I worried about how I put the harness together when making it because I knew it would NOT be easy to pull those pins out of the connector housing if I screwed it up. Well, it appears I screwed it up!

I'm relieved to hear that, although I flipped BOTH headers. The pin order - from connector to header - is NOT disturbed however. Did you see my closeup photo of your board installed? Not surprisingly, I do NOT want to flip those headers now as that would require me to desolder the board - which I'm unable to do with my Soldapultt! I already sucked the solder off, but I will just flow some more back on if I can leave the board as is. Again, both headers are flipped!

** Update **

Thank you to all of who responded in this thread this week. This project was just put on ice again because I pulled all the boards and sent them back to the tech that originally serviced them. Yeah, it's likely that my playfield wiring is manhandling the boards, but it will be helpful to hear what his bench tests reveal about their condition. I will update this tread again after I learn something new.

Thanks. I'll remember this. I'm encouraged to know I can change how the connector is loaded, and spare myself the chore of making a new one. It took me some time to make the leads before loading them into the connectors, crimping those tiny contacts onto the ends, etc.

I have perplexing news:

I heard from the very able/gracious/helpful tech this week to whom I shipped my complete boardset for bench testing.

He tested them all for four straight hours and they tested...JUST FINE! This is dispiriting to me, because while it rules out the boards - which is helpful - it points to miswiring on my playfield or in my cabinet and/or a short, and those are repairs that are very hard for me to carry out without (a) wiring schematics or (b) experience ferreting out shorts.

I asked the tech if he could sit on the boards until I could confer with the helpful Pinsiders who have been helping me, just in case any of you propose a test that the tech can do and I cannot. So, does anything come to mind, or should I just pay him for his help and to ship the boards back to me?

Probably not justified, but thank you.

Does it? Weebly chimed in to say that my board should work as is.

At this point, yes, I'm assuming I have a short and/or I miswired my sling switches when I replaced them as part of my shopping of the game. I need a schematic to show me how to orient my switch capacitors and resistors. I asked in my regional thread if I could visit another local collector with a System-7 pin - whose playfield I could photograph for reference - but no one responded with an invitation. One collector did offer some photos, but I can't make out the key details and really need to get in there myself.

Others have theorized that I should be repinning this or that, or that I should replace ribbon cables, etc.

Of course, I can't resume the troubleshooting until I can get the boards back. I won't arrange to have them shipped back for a day or two, to give any respondents in this thread time to weigh in - again, in case they think of a specific helpful bench test.

Thanks for pointing this out, but I'm afraid I'm still confused. If I change the pin order within my "harness/loom/cable," I will disturb the wire order as it ultimately meets the power diver board - UNLESS I flip the headers, and I can't do that as I can't free them from the board and Weebly isn't open right now to sell me a replacement to start over.

Thanks. Thankfully I have new capacitors and resistors for this switch. I'll work on this tomorrow.

I thought testing diodes in the circuit is impossible. What am I missing?

Can I do this with my DDM in "diode" mode or do I use a low-range resistance setting? I assume I test between the two outer lugs of the coil.

I rebuilt all four flipper assemblies - new baseplates, plungers, links, sleeves, EOS switches, return springs. I did NOT replace the original coils.

It all looks fine to me. I have looked it over a hundred times. I will take some photos tomorrow and share them here.

This sounds consistent with how I'm blowing drive transistors with locking sling coils. Perhaps I should start by replacing the diodes on my sling coils. Wait: I need to start with the saver board because that has to be in place before I start a game. I need to wait for Weebly to open so I can buy another blank board and build another from the parts I have.

Thanks again for your suggestions.

Got it.

Thanks for the part number!

Are you sure?

I bought NPN's by mistake. All the TIP102's on my board are PNP. I can't find PNP TIP102's on Mouser's site or on Digi-Key's.

This is my haul from Steve at The Pinball Resource. This is *all* I have, but there are certainly diagrams in the blue volume, including a Power Wiring Diagram and a Driver Board Logic Diagram. I'm still not able to find the wiring diagram for the sling switches.

IMG_1547 (resized).jpg

IMG_1549 (resized).jpg

I must have misidentified them as PNP because I'm only able to test them with the red probe of my DMM at either outer leg and the black probe at the middle leg. If I reverse the probes I get no reading at all. I'm relieved to know I won't have to order yet more transistors!

I may not have this quite right. And my left configuration isn't identical to my right. (Below is left side first, then right.)

IMG_1537 (resized).jpg

IMG_1542 (resized).jpg

These stray wires are actually what prompted the inception of this thread and they are still undealt with.
Please tell me how I can use my manuals to figure out where these two wires belong. I assume they were once soldered to a pair of lugs on the back on the diagnostics buttons given the proximity.

Green w/brown tracer (currently extended in purple)

Teal w/brown tracer

IMG_1543 (resized).jpg

I rebuilt the slings with new kickers, pivot studs, plungers, sleeves, and switches. I reused the caps and resistors. Probably foolish but I will set about rectifying that.

I shopped this game thoroughly - or so I thought. I replaced all the drop targets and their return springs, and I replaced all four flipper brackets and loaded them with new sleeves, plungers, links, return springs, and EOS switches. I replaced other playfield switches behind rubbers and I rebuilt the standup targets by transferring the original target faces to new targets. I did NOT replace the switches in the drop banks, but I gapped them and cleaned them with a business card sprayed with rubbing alcohol.

Your helpful closeup photo will guide me in soldering the sling switch, but there are also the leads from the wiring harness and where specifically they need to be soldered to the switch lugs. I have a pair of black leads emerging from the harness, soldered together to a single lug on the first switch, and then a single orange lead from the far switch back to the harness - and none of this is known to me as Kosher because, again, I have no wiring diagram for the game.

Thanks. That's great. Your buttons seem to have no fewer than three green/teal leads soldered there, but where is the brighter green lead that I have hanging around near my buttons?

White w/brown trace
Green w/blue trace

8A9D6B59-1A16-45A6-B477-A3FF6452B9CB (resized).jpeg

I seem to have green no trace and yellow on my Advance button

FFB79F8A-0C0E-4A7D-881D-C441CB2D3D4C (resized).jpeg

The stray green w/brown trace comes from the nearest coin-drop switch.

There is a stray white w/violet trace wire, but it may be a “not used” wire (switches 55 and 63 in the matrix) because it looks cut, not broken.

My theory is that the two stray green w/brown trace wires here belong connected to EACH OTHER.
I believe they are simply different shades of green but still green w/brown trace.
One justification for this theory is that the brighter green wire does NOT reach the main connector just inside the coin door.
There is only one green w/brown trace wire in that connector and it’s teal, not bright green.
I’m not all that concerned about them because my coin mechs are missing key parts and couldn’t possibly work even if the wiring here was Kosher. Still, to guard against shorting, I will solder the green wires together and protect them beneath heat-shrink.

081113F3-ABEF-4FA0-A09F-528DDA969AFC (resized).jpeg

B65FF947-CC50-4DC9-B47B-E45B97D53AF1 (resized).jpeg

My replacement capacitors appear to be the wrong configuration.
Can I use them anyway?
If so, what is the convention regarding the opposing wire lengths?

A1A77EE6-4CA1-46DA-A12D-CDBE4D2BD4EC (resized).jpeg

Thank you.

I have reached a key step and I need help crossing it, as this is likely where I screwed up the wiring when I replaced these sling switches, thereby causing them to lock on and to blow TIP102's. I took the switches out and replaced the caps and resistors (to match Rikoshay's photo of a wired switch). Now I have them back in the game but the key thing I'm referring to is how to properly provide power. On the right, emerging from a large branch of the wiring harness, there are two black leads and one orange. The black leads meet the rearward-leaf lug on the lower switch and the one orange lead meets the forward-leaf lug. The question is, have I got this reversed? Please look at this photo and note where the black leads meet the lower switch (lower on the playfield, upper in this photo) and are then jumped to the upper switch where they meet the NEGATIVE end of the cap. The orange lead meets the inner-leaf lug of the lower switch and is jumped to the resistor lug on the upper switch. Is this wrong?

I have NOT soldered the power leads to the left switches yet and won't until I know how to do it properly.

Thanks.

IMG_1565 (resized).jpgIMG_1566 (resized).jpg

Thanks. Very helpful.
The only lingering confusion then is, why is my slam-tilt wire white/brown and not white/violet? And if mine is white/brown, what is the purpose of the white/violet wire in my coin door?
In any case, I have soldered my two stray green/brown wires together in the coin door and shrinkwrapped the white/violet wire and I'm moving on from that issue.