I have a few working driver boards that are tested working 100%. New 40 pin, new power header and filter cap. Hit me up if you want to trade for yours.
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I have a few working driver boards that are tested working 100%. New 40 pin, new power header and filter cap. Hit me up if you want to trade for yours.
Plus one for that coil being shorted out to the frame and probably causing the fuse to blow. I would check the manual and make sure the correct coils and diodes were installed.
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:I powered the game on and the #1 coil in the 5-bank did NOT lock on as it had to this point. However, the right sling coil is still locking on the instant the game powers on. It remains energized continuously, causing a slight odor. It’s not quite an odor of combustion, but it’s probably not a healthy odor either. I have the Special Solenoid Fuse-Saver board, but it’s just a blank board at this point. I still need to order the balance of its parts and build it.
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If all your trying to do is make the fuse for the sling blow just unhook the coil for the sling. Issue is the special solenoid can be locked on for a few different reasons. Until you know what is locking it on your chasing your tail. Do you have a logic probe and a few simple tools?
I took the time to read the rest of your post. There is some really sketchy help here... you should never change a fuse with the game on. EVER! This game has high voltage that is potential lethal.
There could be a few reasons that the Special Solenoid is locked on at power up. Shorted driver or pre driver transistor, one of the driver chips has a fault. You will need to get a logic probe and the schematics to see where you loose the signal. Start from the connectors or just at the tab on the driver transistor that drives that solenoid. Where you loose the low pulse you have found your problem. It could be the resistors or PIA but that’s less likely in my opinion.
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:I see. Thanks.
I'll work on this. Hopefully LTG is willing to loan me his logic probe.
I've never used this tool, so I will need a lesson from LTG. Again, hopefully he has time.
Sounds promising. I will keep you posted. Thanks for your help.
Get the logic probe. Let me know maybe we can FaceTime.
You could make a simple probe that would work for this. You need a couple pieces of wire a 1k ohm resistor and a led.
Quoted from Rikoshay:sorry, you are correct, 2J12 is the special solenoids drive
You got this.
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:I reconnected 2J13 and disconnected 2J12 and powered on the game. Sling coil did NOT lock on.
Does this point to playfield wiring and away from the PDB?
No it means the driver board is locked on
This logic probe is different than mine. Usually there is a red and black lead. For the sake of argument disconnect 2j9 11 and 12. Hook up the probe the red to the positive side, Black to negative of the filter capacitor on the SDB. I guess if there is just a black hook to beg of cap. Put the game in to solenoid test and let it advance to solenoid 17 and stop it touch the tip of the probe to the tab of Q2. You should have a high signal with it pulsing low every second ish. If that is the case and it should be unless Q2 is not used in your game. Then advance to solenoid 18. This is Q4. Signal is probably stuck high and not going low like you heard before. If that is stuck then move to the predriver transistor probe the center tab of it. Is it pulsing from high to low? If not check pin 13 of ic8. What is it doing? Check pins 11 and 12. If 8 is an inverter. You should see the opposite of the signal going into pin 12 coming out on pin 13
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