gently pushing on the locking tab of the pin and gently pulling the on the wire, each one should come out with ease.

it's watching when you push on the locking tab that it's down far enough, then you pull on the wire.

don't pull first or the locking tab is fighting against the connector.

even though the locking tab is now bent down, use a razor blade to gently lift it back up.

give yourself a pat on the back for you have done to get great news and with some help from fellow Pinsiders move on to the next issue.

your connector for your fuse saver board needed repining, but aside from that I don't recall where you are up to?
is it that possibly a short on the playfield was causing a fuse to blow and/or coil lock on?

sorry, not board, but the connector you made needs the pins removed and put back in in the correct order.

I have a stack of pics, hope this helps?

the resistor and capacitor join in series on an isolated solder tab

the + of the electrolytic capacitor joins at the solder tab with the resistor

IMG_7144 (resized).JPG

but you can do some more troubleshooting.

check/test diodes on your coils, check resistances of coils, check flipper assemblies, check switch gaps etc........if in doubt upload some pics maybe?

visually inspect under the playfield for anything that may not look right to you, if you think it looks suspect then upload the pic and you'll get an answer.

I'll try and answer in order.

1.Your original special solenoid connector should have the 2 orange flipper wires at the bottom of the connector, pins 1 & 2 on the driver board and the other wires that are blue /? follow upwards with the keying pin at pin 5.

as you know the headers are reversed and you have the flipper wires at the top of the fuse saver board. This must be fixed.

what might be easier is slicing of both the locking tabs and just turning the connectors around the way they should be?

you can the end of 'your made loom' alone at the driver board but must alter the other side to match where the original connects to the fuse saver board, with the locking tab gone just switch it around, then check continuity, visually should be fine as your wires are different colours.

otherwise you need to remove the wires from the connectors as discussed in post #151.

2.cool

3.you can't test a diode in a circuit, this is correct, you need to remove 1 side from the circuit.
but you can check the coil resistance with a diode attached and either wire removed from the coil to break the circuit.

4.to test the resistance of a coil use your lowest resistance setting and a wire removed, and when checking a flipper coil remember to put a piece of paper or
similar to break the EOS contact.

5.i suggest testing the flipper coil resistances, both windings as per: https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html
don't forget to break the circuit of the EOS contacts.
say you thick winding is 4ohm and your thin winding is 330ohms then across both you should get the sum of the 2 windings, that being 334ohms.

6.i suggest replacing the coil diodes on all coils. 1N4004/1N4007. This may sound extreme or not something you want to take on, but it's what I do for peace of mind. As you'll be testing diodes, since one leg is already removed, maybe remove the other and replace it. It's a slow job and instead of removing the original diode by unwinding it from the solder tab/leg, you could simply cut it off. Unwinding them is quite time consuming and risks breaking the fine coil winding wire if all the original solder isn't removed.

a shorted diode will cause a fuse to blow because it's giving the current a direct path to ground.

If you still need a schematics for Jungle Lord, check out eBay. Several listed and even include the small instruction booklet.

Part number is the type as well. There's no TIP102 PNP. How are you determining the ones on your board are pnp? the originals might have been tip122, still an npn transistor.

When you buy parts that have a number assigned to them like a tip102 does, you don't then further drill down to the type..... a tip102 is an npn transistor. When selecting the part without knowing the part #, you might designate on the search "npn type".

personally I would rebuild all the special solenoid switches, the parts are cheap and you have 40+ year old capacitors.

how do you feel about starting a fresh with new components?

you'll really just be replacing the capacitors and resistors in their correct orientation and while you're at it give the switches a clean too, if it suits?
you'll be able to align the switches correctly and have peace of mind they'll last another 40 years....ideally.

it's easy to separate the bakelite insulators and sleeves using a hobby knife or razor blade, gently prying from one side to the other.

if you choose to go down this path you can always post pics of your first switch before soldering the components on just for reassurance?

Williams Diagnostic Switch Wiring (resized).JPG

maybe this will help, although the colour of the wires may vary?

The Green w/Brown tracer wire feeds all the switches in Column 1 of the switch matrix: Plumb Bob tilt, Ball roll tilt, credit button, right coin, center coin, left coin, slam tilt, and high score reset. The teal??brighter green w/ brown trace? someone might have replaced a wire. Trace it back and see where it goes and let us know.

have you seen this? https://www.ipdb.org/files/1338/Williams_1981_Jungle_Lord_Schematic_Diagrams_paginated_some_with_red_lining.pdf

they might not be identical, but if your serious about replacing the capacitors and resistors, I have a complete original playfield out of the machine and don't reckon the colour wires would be too far off and am happy to upload pics of each of what I have, switches etc. and although not identical games we could probably nut it out?

Just do one at a time, looking at JL it seems the only special solenoids are the slingshots/kickers ? Left, right and upper.

It might look daunting, and taking all the wires off wondering if you'll put them back on the correct solder tabs, but myself and others I'm sure will help out.

on my Black Knight the light green wire goes to the Advance with a white wire

BK Diagnostics wiring (resized).JPG

You are correct BK and JL advance switch should have a solid green and solid white (no trace color), but Jason has a brown trace on his whatever shade of green. He needs to see where this wire comes from. Then we might be able to help.

Jason, the cut wire in your picture white w/violet trace, should go to the slam switch. What wire colors are on your slam switch if any?

just a suggestion, but I don't recommend soldering the green wires together.

yes isolate all 3 wires with heat shrink, but if those 2 green wires join to 2 separate places you might cause an issue or more?

of course it's your pin so your call.

it may have had the door replaced in the past looking at the plugs with different corresponding wires?

seeing as I have the door out of the machine, I remember there being some loose wires, and believe as you do that they are for an unused coin switch.

as you may already know the green wires may in fact need to be soldered together to complete the circuit for the other coin switches, which is what you intend to do anyway, so, i reckon ignore the post above.
coin door wires (resized).JPG

Yellow wire is just a jumper from the white wire, so that is correct.

I think Rikoshay, is correct, the door you have has been replaced. Jungle Lord schematics has the white/w brown going to the plumb bob tilt and no Green w/blue wire listed for the door. Switch 55 and 63 are not listed in my Jungle Lord schematics or I can't find them. What are their functions?

Stop using images and start using the manual. All the issues everyone is pondering and trying to explain can be explained by looking at the cabinet wiring diagram in the manual.

wms_system3-7_cabinet_wiring.jpg

Yes you can use them
The shorter lead is negative see the arrow pointing to it

My mistake didn't registrar that there was a flipper coil in the picture, the picture of your slam switch is not the slam switch, it's the playfield tilt which by the way is wired correctly. The slam switch is on the front door and should have the white/violet trace and green/brown trace.

Again, stop using images and start using the manual. If you learn how to read these wiring diagrams, you can answer all these questions for yourself. It's all explained in the manual (that most owners don't read or even know exist).

Lucky for you, I have a special edition of the manual that comes with intelligent, context sensitive highlighting. I think it's awesome, but unfortunately, not readily available. It's something that can be acquired with a little bit of effort though. Note that the green is used for highlighting because I can't highlight in black.

jungle_lord_solenoid_wiring.jpg

This might seem like tough love. Trust me, once you learn how to read these things, you will NOT be reliant on anyone else for advice.

The schematic shows the ELECTRICAL circuit connections... not necessarily how the actual physical wire connections are made. In other words, when an electrical schematic shows three things connected together, it does not care what order, right, left, up, down, how far apart, or if they're daisy-chained vs. home-run, etc. It's simply showing that those three points are electrically common.

No. Because, both switches have them, technically...

whether the cap/resistor physically resides on one switch or the other, or someplace else, they are still electrically connected across (in parallel with) both switches.

well done!

your pics look fine and your soldering is nice.

negative of the cap to ground and the resistor to positive, just as per the schematic.

the caps you bought are called radial, the original ones are called axial.

DumbAss is right, once you jump in and start to learn to read schematics you are only helping yourself.......and who knows, maybe you'll be helping someone down the track from what you've learned?

I think you missed my point... I advocate to learn the meaning behind the electrical drawing and then you'll be able to tell when a physical hookup follows the circuit.

As far as I can tell from your photo, yes, it matches the diagram.