(Topic ID: 237031)

Wms Ringer start up help

By djblouw

5 years ago


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  • 33 posts
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  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Denethor
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    HS RE schem2 (resized).JPG
    HS RE schem re (resized).JPG
    HS RE schem sw (resized).JPG
    HS RE man (resized).JPG
    20190315_200832 (resized).jpg
    20190315_200949 (resized).jpg
    Lock Relay info (resized).JPG
    Lock Relay (resized).JPG
    wms_ringer_sch.pdf (PDF preview)
    wms_ringer_man.pdf (PDF preview)
    Ringer Control Motor (resized).JPG
    Goodie bag (resized).jpg
    33B30E49-3B3E-4AE4-8299-544480549A5A (resized).jpeg
    Score switches (resized).jpg
    06797C7A-D6F5-49D8-A9B9-A91EEB038FB8 (resized).jpeg
    FDC4BB5B-EA2F-4BEB-A640-2D9310E4FE57 (resized).jpeg
    #1 5 years ago

    I’ve had a Williams Penny Pitch (Ringer) for a couple years now. It wasn’t working when I got it, and had never worked.

    I’ve cleaned the score reels, and adjusted the switches properly. The manual is incorrect I believe, as it says all switches should be open at 0 position. But I’ve tried both ways and it had no impact.

    I’ve cleaned and checked the two stepper units, and they operate freely and reset properly.

    The game will add credits properly. When the start is pushed it will remove a credit and reset the score reels to 0, but then keeps cycling.

    I’ve visually checked the switches on the relays and score motor against the schematic.

    I have schematics and the manual. But haven’t been able to get anywhere.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    #2 5 years ago

    I recently got a Williams Ringer functioning. The machine needs to get info that the hole/shoot steppers are reset. That info goes through the Jones plug to the main board. It took a while for me to figure that out and noticed the Jones plugs were not making good connections. Concentrate on the middle one as I remember that one connects to those steppers.

    Mike V

    #3 5 years ago
    Quoted from RacingPin:

    I recently got a Williams Ringer functioning. The machine needs to get info that the hole/shoot steppers are reset. That info goes through the Jones plug to the main board. It took a while for me to figure that out and noticed the Jones plugs were not making good connections. Concentrate on the middle one as I remember that one connects to those steppers.
    Mike V

    Thanks for the tip.

    I have confirmed that the horseshoe stepper is in the zero position. From the manual it states "Engage relay is energized when wiper on horseshoe unit disc is at zero position" I used my DMM to check continuity between the wiper arm and engage relay.

    #4 5 years ago

    So upon pushing the start button, the score reels reset properly and the control motor starts.

    The start relay engages and holds. The lock relay pulses with the score motor switch 1c properly, but does not hold.

    THe score reset relay pulses with score motor impulse cam switch B.

    The one behavior that doesn’t look right is that the brake solenoid engage and holds. It is pulses by score motor switch, but it seems to be releasing it momentarily.

    Thoughts?

    #5 5 years ago
    Quoted from djblouw:

    The manual is incorrect I believe, as it says all switches should be open at 0 position. But I’ve tried both ways and it had no impact.

    1. You are wrong about this.

    2. I'll need to see a high quality scan of the schematic from (for example) Staples ($2) or Kinkos ($6)

    Added over 5 years ago:

    My original comment #1 is incorrect. The manual is wrong. See clarification in Post #24 below.

    #6 5 years ago
    Quoted from MrBally:

    1. You are wrong about this.
    2. I'll need to see a high quality scan of the schematic from (for example) Staples ($2) or Kinkos ($6)

    Here’s the manual:

    FDC4BB5B-EA2F-4BEB-A640-2D9310E4FE57 (resized).jpegFDC4BB5B-EA2F-4BEB-A640-2D9310E4FE57 (resized).jpeg

    And here’s the reels in the 0 position:

    06797C7A-D6F5-49D8-A9B9-A91EEB038FB8 (resized).jpeg06797C7A-D6F5-49D8-A9B9-A91EEB038FB8 (resized).jpeg

    #7 5 years ago

    It sure looks like someone took that switch stack apart and assembled it incorrectly.

    #8 5 years ago
    Quoted from MrBally:

    It sure looks like someone took that switch stack apart and assembled it incorrectly.

    That was my original thought, but both sides look the same. And when I adjusted the switch to be open, there was no change in the operation.

    #9 5 years ago
    Quoted from djblouw:

    That was my original thought, but both sides look the same. And when I adjusted the switch to be open, there was no change in the operation.

    To clarify: If I leave the score reels in the 0 position, and open up the top switch (or put an insulator between the contacts), there is no impact on the start up sequence. (I did this to all 4 reels at the same time).

    #10 5 years ago

    So, are are the other resettable steppers reset? The score reels are not the only part of the reset sequence.

    #11 5 years ago
    Quoted from MrBally:

    So, are are the other resettable steppers reset? The score reels are not the only part of the reset sequence.

    Yes. The horseshoe stepper and the shot count stepper both reset properly. That is: when I advance them manually, and then start a game, they reset to the correct position.

    #12 5 years ago

    Schematics can be reviewed here, for anyone that wants to help get this thing working:

    http://www.pinrepair.com/arcade/wms_ringer_sch.pdf

    #13 5 years ago

    And for reference, here's the 10-90 score reel switches. Again, both sides are like this.

    Score switches (resized).jpgScore switches (resized).jpg

    #14 5 years ago

    It looks like the schematic is requiring the 0 switch to be closed:

    33B30E49-3B3E-4AE4-8299-544480549A5A (resized).jpeg33B30E49-3B3E-4AE4-8299-544480549A5A (resized).jpeg

    So this means the instruction manual is incorrect.

    Also, the brake solenoid should be engaged, when the motor cycles, per the schematic (just above my red circle in the picture). So that behavior is correct.

    So far, it looks like it should work. But it doesn't.

    What should be my next step to look at?

    #15 5 years ago

    It's got the goody bag still stapled on the inside.

    I'm pretty sure that this means the game is HUO right?

    Goodie bag (resized).jpgGoodie bag (resized).jpg

    1 week later
    #16 5 years ago

    I'm just going to bump this up, to see if anyone else can help.

    #17 5 years ago

    Any help before it’s turned into firewood??

    #18 5 years ago

    I have put red boxes around the switches that keep the score motor from turning off.

    If these are all open, the motor should not run after game start, is that correct?

    Ringer Control Motor (resized).JPGRinger Control Motor (resized).JPG

    EDIT: Nevermind on this one. Lots of other stuff happening. See my posts below

    #19 5 years ago

    Here's the full schematics:

    wms_ringer_sch.pdfwms_ringer_sch.pdf

    And here's the manual:

    wms_ringer_man.pdfwms_ringer_man.pdf

    Relays are located starting on pg 15

    #20 5 years ago
    Quoted from djblouw:

    Any help before it’s turned into firewood??

    This is a tough one because there aren't very many out existing anymore & Pinside isn't exactly EM central (nowhere really is). Have you tried the folks still hanging out at RGP? Any local EM guys near you?

    #21 5 years ago
    Quoted from jahbarron:

    This is a tough one because there aren't very many out existing anymore & Pinside isn't exactly EM central (nowhere really is). Have you tried the folks still hanging out at RGP? Any local EM guys near you?

    Yeah, I know this may not be the right crowd for getting tech EM help. But hopefully someone has some tips.

    #22 5 years ago

    Looking at my previous posts: "The start relay engages and holds. The lock relay pulses with the score motor switch 1c properly, but does not hold." I believe this may be part of the problem.

    The schematic for the lock relay looks like this:

    Lock Relay (resized).JPGLock Relay (resized).JPG

    The manual has this description:

    Lock Relay info (resized).JPGLock Relay info (resized).JPG

    So if I'm interpreting the schematic properly:
    Once the start relay engages, and the control motor rotates (closing the switch on CM1), the lock relay should engage. When this happens, the lock relay should then stay engaged through the cabinet slam switch, and it's own switch (A in this case).

    Can someone please run a sanity check on this for me?

    #23 5 years ago

    paging bingopodcast I hear he knows a thing or two about these games!

    #24 5 years ago
    Quoted from djblouw:

    Looking at my previous posts: "The start relay engages and holds. The lock relay pulses with the score motor switch 1c properly, but does not hold." I believe this may be part of the problem.
    The schematic for the lock relay looks like this:
    [quoted image]
    The manual has this description:
    [quoted image]
    So if I'm interpreting the schematic properly:
    Once the start relay engages, and the control motor rotates (closing the switch on CM1), the lock relay should engage. When this happens, the lock relay should then stay engaged through the cabinet slam switch, and it's own switch (A in this case).
    Can someone please run a sanity check on this for me?

    Per the schematic, the lock relay should remain energized via the normally closed slam switch and the lock relay hold switch. Troubleshoot that circuit with jumper wires. You likely have a broken wire/solder joint in that circuit or possibly a bad Jones plug that the slam switch is wired to.

    And yes, I confirmed that the manual is wrong regarding the score reel assemblies. The top switch is closed on position zero on all reels. Pics below of the 0-9 reel with three switches and the 10-90 reel with two switches.

    So, I was wrong for saying that you were wrong in post #5.

    I've never had to work on the score reels on a Ringer before. Just the the Spin Wheel & clutch assembly. The goody bag is intact on the Ringer at the VFW Pinball hall like yours. When needed, route operators had a bag full of pinball rubbers so they used one from their stach to replace the worn on on the spin wheel assembly.

    20190315_200832 (resized).jpg20190315_200832 (resized).jpg20190315_200949 (resized).jpg20190315_200949 (resized).jpg
    #25 5 years ago
    Quoted from MrBally:

    Per the schematic, the lock relay should remain energized via the normally closed slam switch and the lock relay hold switch. Troubleshoot that circuit with jumper wires. You likely have a broken wire/solder joint in that circuit or possibly a bad Jones plug that the slam switch is wired to.
    And yes, I confirmed that the manual is wrong regarding the score reel assemblies. The top switch is closed on position zero on all reels. Pics below of the 0-9 reel with three switches and the 10-90 reel with two switches.
    So, I was wrong for saying that you were wrong in post #5.
    I've never had to work on the score reels on a Ringer before. Just the the Spin Wheel & clutch assembly. The goody bag is intact on the Ringer at the VFW Pinball hall like yours. When needed, route operators had a bag full of pinball rubbers so they used one from their stach to replace the worn on on the spin wheel assembly.[quoted image][quoted image]

    Thank you for confirming the score reel switches!

    I'll start jumpering and see if there is any improvement.

    The lock relay is odd, because if I hold it closed with my fingers, and then release it will stay closed. Sometimes it will stay closed even when the game over relay is tripped (and everything else de-energizes). But the lock relay sometimes also opens back up when I let go, or shortly thereafter and pulses with the control motor.

    #26 5 years ago
    Quoted from djblouw:

    The lock relay is odd, because if I hold it closed with my fingers, and then release it will stay closed. Sometimes it will stay closed even when the game over relay is tripped (and everything else de-energizes).

    Once the Lock Relay is energized at start up, it should remain energized until the machine is turned off.
    If you jump the Lock Relay directly to the Yellow Common, does it stay locked on? If so, (and I would
    guess that it will), then I'd do some jumping finding what section of the circuitry has the faulty connection(s),
    maybe starting with the locking switches in the Lock Relay itself..

    #27 5 years ago
    Quoted from MrBally:

    Troubleshoot that circuit with jumper wires. You likely have a broken wire/solder joint in that circuit or possibly a bad Jones plug that the slam switch is wired to.

    Quoted from Mopar:

    Once the Lock Relay is energized at start up, it should remain energized until the machine is turned off.
    If you jump the Lock Relay directly to the Yellow Common, does it stay locked on? If so, (and I would
    guess that it will), then I'd do some jumping finding what section of the circuitry has the faulty connection(s),
    maybe starting with the locking switches in the Lock Relay itself..

    Ah ha! Progress! Jumpered the lock relay to the tilt switch, started a game, and the lock relay engaged and held. Issue was in the Jones plug (even though I had cleaned them it still want making contact). Got that issue fixed.

    Next issue was the spin switch wasn’t pulsing the horseshoe relay. Found a switch on the control motor needed adjusting.

    Current issue is the spin switch will activate the horseshoe relay, and it stays locked on.

    I’ll take any tips anyone has to fix the next issue, but am going to need a break from it tonight.

    Thanks for the help so far!

    #28 5 years ago

    I need some help interpreting schematics/function to figure out the issue with the horseshoe relay (HS RE) staying locked on.

    From the manual, the HS RE is pulsed by the spin switch. I have confirmed that the spin switch does engage the HS RE. The manual also states that switch bank A is "In hold circuit to this relay" and switch bank B "Energizes horseshoe unit S.U. coil"
    HS RE man (resized).JPGHS RE man (resized).JPG

    How can the HS RE be pulsed, if it has it's own hold circuit? Once the HS RE is energized, doesn't it lock itself on through switch bank A, and therefore also lock on switch bank B (horseshoe S.U. coil)?

    Here's some more pictures from the schematic, with my interpretations:

    Spin wheel switch is closed (green line), providing a path to the HS RE (red line):
    HS RE schem sw (resized).JPGHS RE schem sw (resized).JPG

    HS RE is energized, closing it's normally open switch (green line), providing a locked on path to the HS RE (red line):
    HS RE schem re (resized).JPGHS RE schem re (resized).JPG

    HS RE being energized, closes it's normally open switch (green line), locking on the horseshoe s.u. coil?? How does this work?
    HS RE schem2 (resized).JPGHS RE schem2 (resized).JPG

    #29 5 years ago
    #30 5 years ago
    Quoted from djblouw:

    Current issue is the spin switch will activate the horseshoe relay, and it stays locked on.

    Like you say, the Spin switch activates the Horseshoe Relay, and then the Horseshoe Relay should
    activate the "Cut Off Relay". The Cut Off Relay is in the back row of the bottom board, 3rd from the
    right. Once the Cut Off Relay is energized, it opens a set of contacts within itself and cuts the circuit to
    the Horseshoe Relay. Once the Horseshoe Relay is de-energized, through a set of contacts within itself,
    it cuts the circuit to the Cut Off Relay which is how each of those Relays activates on and off all initially
    coming from the Spin switch. If your Cut Off Relay isn't energizing, that's what you'll want to consentrate
    on first by rechecking the Horseshoe Relay contacts. If the Cut Off Relay is energizing, then my guess
    would be that the make-break switch in the Cut Off Relay isn't breaking, meaning that all three switches in the
    make-break are touching when the Cut Off Relay is energized..

    #31 5 years ago
    Quoted from Mopar:

    Like you say, the Spin switch activates the Horseshoe Relay, and then the Horseshoe Relay should
    activate the "Cut Off Relay". The Cut Off Relay is in the back row of the bottom board, 3rd from the
    right. Once the Cut Off Relay is energized, it opens a set of contacts within itself and cuts the circuit to
    the Horseshoe Relay. Once the Horseshoe Relay is de-energized, through a set of contacts within itself,
    it cuts the circuit to the Cut Off Relay which is how each of those Relays activates on and off all initially
    coming from the Spin switch. If your Cut Off Relay isn't energizing, that's what you'll want to consentrate
    on first by rechecking the Horseshoe Relay contacts. If the Cut Off Relay is energizing, then my guess
    would be that the make-break switch in the Cut Off Relay isn't breaking, meaning that all three switches in the
    make-break are touching when the Cut Off Relay is energized..

    Great tips! Thank you.

    I was actuating the horseshoe relay by hand (with a game stated) to see if everything was working. A couple times doing this, then I reset the game. Now the HS RE works properly, by pulsing the s.u. coil!

    I'm not sure what the actual fix was, so I'll keep looking over stuff.

    #32 5 years ago

    Yea, as long as the Cut Off Relay's contacts are adjusted properly, and the Horseshoe Relay is
    energizing it when it energizes, you should be in good shape..

    5 months later
    #33 4 years ago

    Can I get a picture of how your scoring pins are set? Mine seem all sorts of messed up.
    Thank you

    Reply

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