(Topic ID: 18838)

WMS Indiana Jones: mode start hole adjustment?

By Rook

11 years ago


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IJ Start mode4 (resized).jpg
IJ Start mode3 (resized).jpg
IJ Start mode2 (resized).jpg
IJ Start mode1 (resized).jpg
deflector.jpg
IJ_Plate.jpg
IJ_Plate_Oblonged.jpg
There are 60 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 6 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Yes, that's what you need. Just take out the entire back plate and line the sides and back with the dead drop foam. It'll take you one or two pieces, but order five or so...you'll use it for other applications. And no, the stuff at Home Depot is for air conditioning...not for deadening the velocity of a pinball.
And you can try to leave the back plate in, but Chris at HEP and I both tried different things and the only one that truly worked was to just remove it altogether.

Any suggestions on leveling the POA when I reinstall it?

#52 6 years ago

Yes. Trial and error. Literally. You might also have to bend the small metal piece that guides the ball onto the POA. You want to make sure that it allows you to dump the ball into either lane. If not adjusted just right, you'll never get it into the left lane.

But really, it will take quite a bit of tweaking and patience.

#53 6 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Yes. Trial and error. Literally. You might also have to bend the small metal piece that guides the ball onto the POA. You want to make sure that it allows you to dump the ball into either lane. If not adjusted just right, you'll never get it into the left lane.
But really, it will take quite a bit of tweaking and patience.

I can get it to go left and right, but when going right, it often drops in the first hole. On the left, it will roll cleanly all the way down.

#54 6 years ago

Ah! Well, that's pretty normal. Mine is leveled correctly, and I usually have to alternate the ball from one side to the other to keep it from flying off the wall and into the hole. I think it may have been designed that way with those little scoops on the side that fling the ball into the center.

What you can consider doing is putting a washer or two under the front support of the POA. This will lift it a bit so the ball moves a little more slowly and doesn't fly off the wall. But that would be cheating.

#55 6 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Ah! Well, that's pretty normal. Mine is leveled correctly, and I usually have to alternate the ball from one side to the other to keep it from flying off the wall and into the hole. I think it may have been designed that way with those little scoops on the side that fling the ball into the center.
What you can consider doing is putting a washer or two under the front support of the POA. This will lift it a bit so the ball moves a little more slowly and doesn't fly off the wall. But that would be cheating.

I'll just have to play around and dial it in.

One thing I'm noticing is that it's impossible to live catch a ball. With my Medieval Madness, I'm able to do it fairly regularly, but I honestly don't think I've done it once with IJ.

The ball seems to bounce around a lot. Does this seem like commonplace for this game?

I have it at 6.5, and even tried it closer to 7 degrees. The higher slant does reduce the bounciness very minimally, making me think I'd have to get up to about 7.5 degrees or more to get faster and harder drops for a live catch.

Thoughts?

#56 6 years ago

I've got my game jacked to around 7.5 or even slightly more. Makes it fast as hell. No problems with live catches, although I suck at it.

2 months later
#57 6 years ago

Hands down the absolute best fix is to remove the deflector and line the back to the left with one continuous piece of dead foam ending 34 of the way up at the the dish. Then we install a protector (we just make one with 1/8") and this will protect the opto and install longer screws in the plastic mounting screws. The ONLY way it is not staying in is if it rattles at the front off the posts and is not a direct shot. if it's direct no matter how hard it is 100%. Have done dozens this way. You MUST remove the deflector if you want it 100%. We also add a cliffy and then the shallowest screws to hold it in. This was a test protector. We make them from clear for better appearance.

IJ Start mode1 (resized).jpgIJ Start mode1 (resized).jpg

IJ Start mode2 (resized).jpgIJ Start mode2 (resized).jpg

IJ Start mode3 (resized).jpgIJ Start mode3 (resized).jpg

IJ Start mode4 (resized).jpgIJ Start mode4 (resized).jpg

2 months later
#58 6 years ago
Quoted from Hemispheres:

Hands down the absolute best fix is to remove the deflector and line the back to the left with one continuous piece of dead foam ending 34 of the way up at the the dish. Then we install a protector (we just make one with 1/8") and this will protect the opto and install longer screws in the plastic mounting screws. The ONLY way it is not staying in is if it rattles at the front off the posts and is not a direct shot. if it's direct no matter how hard it is 100%. Have done dozens this way. You MUST remove the deflector if you want it 100%. We also add a cliffy and then the shallowest screws to hold it in. This was a test protector. We make them from clear for better appearance.

What did you use to protect the opto?

#59 6 years ago
Quoted from Hemispheres:

Hands down the absolute best fix is to remove the deflector and line the back to the left with one continuous piece of dead foam ending 34 of the way up at the the dish. Then we install a protector (we just make one with 1/8") and this will protect the opto and install longer screws in the plastic mounting screws. The ONLY way it is not staying in is if it rattles at the front off the posts and is not a direct shot. if it's direct no matter how hard it is 100%. Have done dozens this way. You MUST remove the deflector if you want it 100%. We also add a cliffy and then the shallowest screws to hold it in. This was a test protector. We make them from clear for better appearance.

Haven't you heard? That's cheating! I'm glad somebody agrees with me around here...

Quoted from KornFreak28:

What did you use to protect the opto?

I'll answer that: Nothing. The opto is a ramp entrance opto and is on the other side of the small guide rail. It's nearly impossible for the ball to hit that when being ejected--it would hit the rail first and careen away from the opto. Bigger concern is the diode on the underside of the upper playfield direcly above it, which normally gets squashed. But some enterprising young German (Austrian?) made a shield for it that's somewhere in this thread, I believe. Dude should sell that, stat!

#60 6 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Haven't you heard? That's cheating! I'm glad somebody agrees with me around here...

I'll answer that: Nothing. The opto is a ramp entrance opto and is on the other side of the small guide rail. It's nearly impossible for the ball to hit that when being ejected--it would hit the rail first and careen away from the opto. Bigger concern is the diode on the underside of the upper playfield direcly above it, which normally gets squashed. But some enterprising young German (Austrian?) made a shield for it that's somewhere in this thread, I believe. Dude should sell that, stat!

Very true! Once again, Beelzeboob to the rescue! Thank you my friend!

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