Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993I started to have random resets with my WMS IJ and reseated all the connectors on
the power driver board. After that I managed to play two games without any problems,
but on the third game, the pin shuts down and does not boot up again. Only some leds
are on on the power driver board and low hum is coming from the speakers.
What might be the culprit? Attached is a picture of the power driver board where one
can see the leds that are on, when one turns the power on.
IJ_leds.jpgFuse F113 was ok. I do not know how to use my general meter to measure the AC, but I will consult a friend and come back to you. Thanks.
EDIT: Trying to learn how to use the multimeter: I put the meter's sticks to pins 1 and 2 of J113 and the dial was turned to "20" on the meter with the mark "V--" (and three dots under the --). I got no reading, it was 0.00 even though the power was turned on with the pin.
Sorry, I made a mistake on J113, that should be J101 pin 1+2
Put multimeter on AC-volt and measure voltage between pin 1 and 2, should be 9Vac
If 9Vac is present and Fuse 113 is ok, the bridge rectifier BR2. is the first to check.
Best to take the board out.
Great...but...
The Z-connector splits the regulated 5 Volt, but there was no 5 Volt present on the powerdriver.
Possible multiple connectors with poor contact.
Again missing 5Volt, goto post #5
Ribbon cables have nothing to do with this.
Check connectivity on the red wires from transformer to J101
Quoted from zaza:Again missing 5Volt, goto post #5
Ribbon cables have nothing to do with this.
Check connectivity on the red wires from transformer to J101
I will try to measure those. As such this is something I am not that familiar
with, but I have good friends to consult on how to do this.
Other idea came into my mind though: would this product help me solve
the problem here - Classic Daughterboard available at: http://www.kahr.us/
It started with resets, but now its not booting anymore, so perhaps this would not help
after all?
Quoted from Nepi23:would this product help me solve
the problem here - Classic Daughterboard available at: http://www.kahr.us/
Not in this case, this product does not supply the PowerDriverBoard with 5Volt, only the CPU-board.
Most important now is to know if you have a solid 9Vac incoming on J101 (2 RED wires).
Quoted from zaza:Not in this case, this product does not supply the PowerDriverBoard with 5Volt, only the CPU-board.
Most important now is to know if you have a solid 9Vac incoming on J101 (2 RED wires).
Ok, I'll get back to you!
We measured with a friend the voltages and at J101 there was no power.
Also what we found was that the 3x5 from transformer to the board was without
power 
We suspect that the power transformer had burned at some point or something
similar had taken place. How should we confirm this?
I also wonder how easy it is to procure a new one for the pin.
Are you saying you are getting no power at all now? Check to make sure the line-in fuse is not blown. If it isn't, turn on the power switch and push on it and twist on it gently. If you can get power intermittently, the fuse holder itself is failing. It's common with this kind of fuse holder.
Quoted from Nepi23:How should we confirm this?
To be sure, disconnect 3x5 plug ( female is transormer side ?)
- a test with main power OFF, multi-meter in 'ohm' or 'diode' and measure resistance on the 2 pins with the red wires.
or
- same test with power ON and multimeter in Vac, measure voltage on those pins.
If no resistance in 1st test or no 9Vac in 2nd test, the transformer is most likely broken.
It looks like the multimeter is set in Vdc in the 4th picture, it should be in Vac or V~ same as 1st picture.
But you didn't find resistance in the other test (5th picture) so I'm afraid the RED wire has lost contact with the transformer or winding for 9Vac inside transformer is broken.
Does the transformer smell like it has been overheated ?
Quoted from zaza:It looks like the multimeter is set in Vdc in the 4th picture, it should be in Vac or V~ same as 1st picture.
But you didn't find resistance in the other test (5th picture) so I'm afraid the RED wire has lost contact with the transformer or winding for 9Vac inside transformer is broken.
Does the transformer smell like it has been overheated ?
Too bad my friend left home ca. 30 mins ago, he is good with technical matters.
In any case, no peculiar smells there as far as I could tell.
To my understanding it will be difficult to get a new transformer though! The part is apparently
5610-13491-00.
Quoted from Nepi23:The part is apparently 5610-13491-00.
that is correct, but inspect the 2 wires first, maybe it is loose in the connector.
That's great news ! the transformer seems ok.
Possible bad connection between male and female 5x3 plug.
Reconnect and measure the same 2 red wires in the backbox going to J101-1 and J101-2.
Quoted from zaza:That's great news ! the transformer seems ok.
Possible bad connection between male and female 5x3 plug.
Reconnect and measure the same 2 red wires in the backbox going to J101-1 and J101-2.
To what position should the meter be dialed in? V~ I presume?
Great ! 8.8Vac is ok.
Machine 'OFF' , connect everything back to normal.
Power machine up and see if LED4 in the center of the powerdriverboard lights up.
Quoted from mrclean:My suggestion is also to ditch that what looks like harbor freight 5$ multimeter and buy a real one like a Fluke.
Those Harbor Freight meters work plenty well for this type of work. We can't all afford Fluke meters.... got pinball mods to buy instead!
Quoted from zaza:Great ! 8.8Vac is ok.
Machine 'OFF' , connect everything back to normal.
Power machine up and see if LED4 in the center of the powerdriverboard lights up.
Everything connected back, but no, still no joy...
No_led4.jpgQuoted from zaza:Ok, now you are sure you have ac-in, double check F113.
Machine 'OFF" , take F113 out of its clip and measure it with multimeter in resistance 200 ohm/beep.
DMM-n.jpg
Yes, the beep is there. Measurements are 01.1, varying with 01.2, 01.3
I think you have to take the powerdriver-board out of the machine to check for proper solder joints on PCB-headers, fuse clip and bridge2.
Maybe a final test before taking the board out.
-Machine 'OFF'
-multimeter in 200 ohm/beep
-Disconnect J101
test (1) one pen on J101-1, other pen on D38 anode. Hear 'beep' ?
test (2) one pen on J101-2, other pen on D3 anode. Hear 'beep' ?
if not, then there is a lost connection somewhere.
5volt-cpu-pdb-n.jpg
Quoted from zaza:I think you have to take the powerdriver-board out of the machine to check for proper solder joints on PCB-headers, fuse clip and bridge2.
Maybe a final test before taking the board out.
-Machine 'OFF'
-multimeter in 200 ohm/beep
-Disconnect J101
test (1) one pen on J101-1, other pen on D38 anode. Hear 'beep' ?
test (2) one pen on J101-2, other pen on D3 anode. Hear 'beep' ?
if not, then there is a lost connection somewhere.
5volt-cpu-pdb-n.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Yes, there were beeps at both times!
Ok, that means J101 is connected to the PCB.
If you are experienced in board repair you can take the board out and measure some components.
And as said, check solder joints on both sides of the board.
Bridge2, C5 and Q1 are the first components to check.
Quoted from zaza:Ok, that means J101 is connected to the PCB.
If you are experienced in board repair you can take the board out and measure some components.
And as said, check solder joints on both sides of the board.
Bridge2, C5 and Q1 are the first components to check.
Sorry, I am not familiar with that at all. Is this something that a novice can do?
In that case I suggest not to do it yourself, those 3 components are tricky to remove and to re-solder.
Quoted from zaza:In that case I suggest not to do it yourself, those 3 components are tricky to remove and to re-solder.
What do you think - how good a bet it would be to get a new Rottendog power driver board? Or how probable it is that the fault lies with one of those 3 components?
I think repair is much cheaper than a Rottendog board.
probalbly 80% Br2+solder+trace, 10% for C5, 5% for Q1 and last 5% for other components.
You have to take out the board anyway,so take pictures or label connectors and take the board out for inspection, maybe it is very obvious that a component is broken or broke loose out solder joint.
Quoted from zaza:I think repair is much cheaper than a Rottendog board.
probalbly 80% Br2+solder+trace, 10% for C5, 5% for Q1 and last 5% for other components.
You have to take out the board anyway,so take pictures or label connectors and take the board out for inspection, maybe it is very obvious that a component is broken or broke loose out solder joint.
Yes, I'll do that and upload pictures then during next week. Thanks again.
I have sent the board out today to have Bridge2, C5 and Q1 exchanged. Let's see, if that is the solution.
Here are pictures of the board attached.
You can download hires-pictures from:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/7jd1p0i9k4histy/WP_20150522_12_03_34_Pro__highres.jpg
and
http://www.mediafire.com/view/bgylbakkojrydxg/WP_20150522_12_03_10_Pro__highres.jpg
Back.jpg
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