(Topic ID: 280531)

Wizard Revival

By TheAnvil

11 months ago


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  • 18 posts
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  • Latest reply 11 months ago by TheAnvil
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#1 11 months ago

I'm new to the site...
I had a perhaps long winded background typed up about this machines history, had some pics, then I guess I hit a wrong button and it all disappeared

So if your interested I can rattle on about it later.

Anyway.
I acquired the Wizard probably 10 years ago, in unknown condition, it has sat in a barn out in the cold (-40) for the last 5 or so years.
I know I know, I understand if I am chastised for that..

The back glass graphic are flawless (phew) the play field is also in very good condition.

I am a HD mechanic so I know my way around electrical and mechanical systems fairly well.

I put the head on, polished the connector pins with a brass wire brush and applied a *light coat of dielectric grease.
Reseated the connectors from the play field on to the lower relay/switch board (not cleaned or greased)
Checked briefly the rotary switches and they seem to be in good shape and move freely
The score wheels are a bit sticky and will need cleaning.

Plugged it in..... nothing.
No lights
No motorized switch drum
If I tap the L flapper the 2nd coin chute relay chatters as long as the button is depressed.

Started to check things

The transformer is outputting the correct voltages at all the taps and that correct voltage is being transferred through the fuses (checked at terminals)

Found the coin return sol not connected (looks like previous owner didn't finish the job)
Soldered them on.

Found the coin mech micro switch malfunctioning, swapped that out with a good one.

These repairs didnt change much.
What does happen is now the coin switch makes the 2nd coin chute chatter intermittently causing 1 or more credits to count on the wheel with 1 coin insertion.

Now there are few wires just not connected to anything by a couple relays... but they look cut, and I cannot see where they would go if they just broke off... I dont have any books or schematics, so was wondering (hoping) someone here could point me in the right direction

Heres my diamond in the rough

20201028_192047 (resized).jpg

Heres a pic of the *mystery wires at the relay bank in the bottom of the cabinet

20201028_191114 (resized).jpg

#2 11 months ago

Oh, I should add some info about the delay relay...
I just read about these last night, how they use a flashing bulb as the timer.
My Wizard has this but did not have a flasher bulb installed by the previous owner, just regular bulb (it was burnt out, which I guess is to be expected)
I didnt have a flasher bulb to install so I just stuck a regular one it, fully expecting it to blow immediately when a slam switch was activated, but when slammed the light just illuminated... VERY brightly, until I turned off the main switch.
Dont know if the lack of the correct flashing bulb is causing my machine to do nearly nothing or not.

I just dont know where to start.

#3 11 months ago

Cut wires are common on these machines. They are usually on one or more of the coin unit relays. They haven't been used with coins for years. It's usually no big deal.

First thing I do on a Bally of that era is to replace the fuse holders. If they're not bad now they will be as soon as you remove and reinsert a fuse. After that check the connections at the Jones plugs. The Bally female connectors can be problematic. Then I would check all of the slam switches.

Move away from the coin stuff and the cut wires for now, and see if you can get it to light up and cycle by tripping relays manually. First press the Lock relay and see if it holds, then try things like the game over relay and the reset relay and see if anything happens. You can also try unplugging the coin door and manually tripping relays.

Everything you need is available here including a really cool color coded schematic that somebody spent a lot of time on:
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2803

#4 11 months ago

Thanks for the link to the schematic! That is exactly what I need... and the color coding really make it easy to understand.

I'll have tried forcing a few relays closed.. but not really knowing what I was doing I didnt retain what I should have.
Things buzzed, clicked and hummed.... I just feel like I gotta get that motorized drum switch turning (score motor?) first off

I'll check the Jones plugs closer.. they did *feel really good though.

I would like the coin mech to be in working order

But the cut wires are not at the coin mech, they're at the relay bank as seen in the pic...
But now with the schematic I'm hoping I can figure these things out.
Thank you.

#5 11 months ago

There is a wealth of knowledge here on pinside and in places like:

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1.htm#top

A machine that doesn’t start up is the #1 problem discussed here, followed by “why doesn’t the score motor stop turning”.

I like to use the machine search on pinside and then click the forum tab to view posts about problems others have had. Many times that helps me with my machines. There is at least one good printed book about pinball repair that my wife picked up for me when we started our collection, by B.B. Kamoroff.

With all that said, I’d focus on the lock relay, as suggested above. Usually on a Bally, you press the left flipper button to wake it up. Pressing the relay closed by hand should do the same thing. The fuse holder recommendation is also a very good one. Our first 3 machines were Bally’s and I’m pretty sure that I had to replace the fuse blocks on all of them.

Good luck,
Dave

#6 11 months ago

Since your game sat idle for so long there are going to be plenty of intermittent issues (dirty switches, poor connections, etc.) that will make chasing down individual issues that much more challenging. Be prepared for each resolved issue to uncover a few more issues. Those who have restored a few games might consider carefully going through everything before doing any troubleshooting but that's not recommended for those who are less experienced since they're more likely to introduce more problems.

I'd recommend addressing the simplest issues and circuits first and getting them reliable then going after some of the more complex stuff. So for example, hitting the left flipper should fire the Lock relay (at 11E on the schematic) which should remain active until the game is powered off or the Delay relay fires. The Lock relay holds switches closed (at A2) that send power to the game lights.

The coin handling circuitry has many options depending on which coin slot you use and the pricing set for the game. For now just get the 1st Coin Chute (at 4C) switch to fire the Coin relay (at 4E). The Coin relay in turn should close a switch (at 9D) that gets the Score Motor (at 10F) to start running. Once the Score Motor starts running the Coin relay should relax and the game should start resetting (clearing score reels, etc.).

Keep in mind when troubleshooting that a switch that closes mechanically is no guarantee that it's also closing electrically. Soot and oxidation build up on unused switch contacts and can provide more than enough resistance to prevent the circuit from operating even when contacts are touching. Jumpering around suspect switches or testing them with a meter are good ways to check them. If using a meter always measure resistance, not just continuity. A closed switch should have a resistance of about an ohm or less. Coils and transformers can have resistances that are low enough that meters will often report continuity. A common mistake is to assume that the continuity is through the switch rather than through some other path around the switch through a coil.

/Mark

#7 11 months ago

Thanks folks.
I will run through those suggestions in the next day or two. I found a manual that edednedy posted a link to, and a color coded schematic... that along with these suggestions I'm sure will keep me busy.
And I am using a quality fluke meter.... but was just using continuity... so it makes sense to ohm it out.
And thanks MarkG for supplying the schematic locations of the parts!

#8 11 months ago

Will the lack of a #455 flasher bulb in the delay relay keep the machine from operating, or does that only come into play when the machine is in game?

#9 11 months ago

The Delay relay only fires when one of the slam switches closes indicating that the game is being abused. Normally it shouldn't affect starting or playing a game. Details are in the manual.

#10 11 months ago

Ok, great thanks..

#11 11 months ago

Well good progress, first problem I found was simply an open contact on the delay relay.
Then everything started coming to life!
The score motor started turning so slowly until it got limbered up like waking up an old dinosaur
Had to help along a few score wheels to zero so it would stop freaking out.
Pulled each score wheel out and give it a quick service, there were 2 point stack screws that were out like 6+ turns!
Tightened, clean and adjusted points.
Had to completely disassemble the switch that changes player scores, (really sticky) cleaned it and now it works perfectly.

Pretty much everything has life except the lower 2 thumper bumpers work but dont score (top one does...?)
And the two roll over buttons on the lower part of the play field dont work...
Along with a few others... cant remember exactly which ones it was...

I need search for an operator manual.

Still needs much more cleaning but an really happy with how it's coming to life!

#12 11 months ago

On the problem of the 2 thumper bumpers not scoring. clean and check the make/break switch on the lite thumper bumper relay.

#13 11 months ago

I am restoring a Wizard and I found something strange on the coin chute relays. Complete switches in the stack with no wires. I'm not talking broken off, because there's no solder on the switch ends at all. Anyone ever seen this or know why they did this? I think the coin relay had a set also.

#14 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballdaveh:

On the problem of the 2 thumper bumpers not scoring. clean and check the make/break switch on the lite thumper bumper relay.

When I check voltage at the switches it's only showing about 23v and I'm seeing that voltage at all the points that are not working (some rollover buttons)
At the thumper that is working, and all the other working targets, I am getting about 58v
So I gotta do some tracing.. it seems like a dirty contact to me.... but my God, there's SO many.....

#15 11 months ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

I am restoring a Wizard and I found something strange on the coin chute relays. Complete switches in the stack with no wires. I'm not talking broken off, because there's no solder on the switch ends at all. Anyone ever seen this or know why they did this? I think the coin relay had a set also.

Switch stacks with unused terminals is probably not incredibly uncommon... not every switch is manufactured, game specific.
If they can put the same switch in a multitude of games, they will, just to cut down on part numbers.

My confusion lies in these wires in my machine... so far nothing has lead me to believe these need to be connected..... but they just look cut.20201028_191114 (resized).jpg

#16 11 months ago
Quoted from TheAnvil:

Switch stacks with unused terminals is probably not incredibly uncommon... not every switch is manufactured, game specific.
If they can put the same switch in a multitude of games, they will, just to cut down on part numbers.
My confusion lies in these wires in my machine... so far nothing has lead me to believe these need to be connected..... but they just look cut.[quoted image]

Well I've never seen it before so it's uncommon to me and I've restored probably two dozen games over the years.

Can you find switches that have solder that are missing the wires? I have wires like that too but not as many and no switches missing wires that have obviously had wires to them before.

#17 11 months ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Well I've never seen it before so it's uncommon to me and I've restored probably two dozen games over the years.
Can you find switches that have solder that are missing the wires? I have wires like that too but not as many and no switches missing wires that have obviously had wires to them before.

I am by no means a expert... and the my wizard is the deepest I've ever dove into a em pinball machine.
I also have miss O but she was working relatively well, then there's supersonic and frontier which are just electronic units.
I will have a closer look at mine but am sure I saw completely unused terminals.
And, there was no obvious sign of terminals with no wires and broken solder joints... that is what is confusing to me.

#18 11 months ago

Well... I feel dumb, read manual, and the two lower thumpers score only after a right lane and a flag...
So, I may be closer to correct operation than I thought!

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