(Topic ID: 271497)

Wizard - Playfield Lighting

By rer83

3 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by newovad
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 3 years ago

Bally Wizard started up - first time in 10 years. All Playfield lighting is not working. Backglass lighting started out dark as well - but cleaning jones plugs allowed return to those lights. Game plays player 1-4 with chimes (seemingly normal operation). Playfield Fuse has continuity.

Any recommendations where to go next?

#2 3 years ago

Did you check all of the fuses? Lights run off 6V. Game mechs run of a higher voltage.

Do you have the schematic? There could be a switch controlling the GI lights. Good amount of documentation is available on IPDB.

#3 3 years ago

Schematic at https://www.ipdb.org/files/2803/Bally_1975_Wizard_Schematic.jpg

There's a switch on the Lock relay that controls the lights.

#4 3 years ago

Thanks Peruman & HowardR - I have the Schematic (novice schematic reader). I have checked over the lock relay visually (see image); but unsure which switch controls the lights and which should be open/closed. 4 fuses have continuity.

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#5 3 years ago

Check the lock relay switch with the blue/red wire and blue wire. The switch should be in the closed position when you start up a new game. Make sure the switch is clean and adjusted properly.

#6 3 years ago

fredsmythson - blue/red wire and blue wire switch closed from open position upon pressing start button. Playfield remains dark.

#7 3 years ago

That’s the switch on the lock relay that controls GI. The one above is the backbox.

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#8 3 years ago

newovad - 1st 2nd and 3rd switch on lock relay closed. 4th is open. Appears identical to your image ("game started" image attached). Playfield remains dark.

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#9 3 years ago

You'll need to confirm with a multimeter if there is 6 volt power at the lock relay switch with the blue/red wire. If power is at the blue/red wire, then check the other side of the switch with the blue wire. Is there 6 volt power when the switch is closed at the blue wire?

#10 3 years ago

I would bet a bad fuse holder. Happens all the time on Bally EM's of that era.

#11 3 years ago

Just because the contacts are closed...doesn't mean voltage is getting through. Those two sets of high current contacts on the lock relay always have pitting. Gently clean the contacts.

Check voltage with your meter before and after the contact points.

Replace your fuse holders.

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from Skidave:

Just because the contacts are closed...doesn't mean voltage is getting through. Those two sets of high current contacts on the lock relay always have pitting. Gently clean the contacts.
Check voltage with your meter before and after the contact points.
Replace your fuse holders.

The bane of EMs is the switch that looks like it is making but isn't, and vice versa.

Clean and adjust the switches and if you still get no GI lights jumper the fuse and see what that does. Bally fuse blocks do have a reputation although I've never had issues with them.

#13 3 years ago

Thanks All Skidave Topcard - it was the fuse holder. Placed a lead on the fuse and playfield lit up. Adjusted fuse a few more times (as ive done several times this past week); playfield lights are working. Recommendations for fuse holder replacement?

Successful first pinside visit. Thanks Again - Robert.

#14 3 years ago
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#15 3 years ago

I picked up a set of fuse holders at my local auto parts store. It was a set of of 4 that could be broken apart. I ended up using two on my Wizard! as well. This one is made by Littlefuse.

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