Whatever you bypass physically you have to turn off in the settings menu so that the game will bring the downstream lights back into sync.

Settings - coil settings scroll down off the bottom of the screen and select Gi 4 NOT WOZ4 and turn off

The game can’t make white as a color so what it does is crank up the intensity of the three LEDs it does have - Red Green Blue - to near maximum so as to approach white. Within the whites, however, you can get color variations depending on which led is brightest and the position of the led under the diffuser post (believe it or not that does matter). So you’ll get white that is more pinkish or blueish or whatever. What to do is run through each color test and focus on the boards you are working on. All blue all green all red and see if the board you are focused on has each color present. If not, then one of the LEDs has failed and you can replace the board or not depending on what you want to do. If all colors are there, but when in white test it is still pink or blue or yellow ish, then you can try manipulating the position of the board (this can change the hue / tint or whatever the correct term may be some). If that doesn’t help there is not a lot too be done - you can wiggle the connector and see if there may be cold solder joints to be reflowed but the LEDs themselves are surface mounted. Never ever unplug or plug in the black and violet power plugs with the game on. You can blow things up.

It’s possible but remember that big boards feed small and so on so I wouldn’t say for sure that the problem is being caused by that issue.