It looks like your lights stop at board 29, the scarecrow rollover switch. Check the connectors between 29 and W6.

One of the light boards have blown u will need a replacement ,easy fix they are wired in serial so the last one that works is the faulty board ( not the first one that doesn't ) .

Open a support ticket with JJP. I had (have) a similar issue. You can bypass a light to test. Unplug the green and red wires frome the first bad led and hook them to the next in line. You also need to bypass the light in the software.

You should use the all white led test to trouble shoot.

I did all this to no avail. JJP support had me unplug and replug the small usb in the silver case. Also the big usb's behind the graphics card. That seemed to work for now.

Update. Issue is still present.

Having similiar issues with my game. Purchased new a few months ago. After a few weeks lightts started doing all crazy things. Found one bad data cable. Took over 2 weeks to get from jjp. Just installed the cable and same issue if not more with the lights.

JJP told me i will basically always have some issue from time to time with lights. Boards were designed with a faulty i c chip. Down the road they might engineer a new board set and cable design. Its just an idea at this time.

Back on the phone with them on monday. I have talked to other woz owners that have had no issues. No idea why my machine always have had issues out of the box

I agree with DCFAN. Start with the simple things, then move on to "the board is blown". The light boards on early game were prone to failure, but later games, JJP fixed that issue. Since it was working when you first had it, how likely is it that a faulty board worked for years, then just happened to fail right after you got the game? I'd say it's more likely that a cable wiggled loose in transit. Check the connectors that DCFAN mentioned.

For reference here is the light layout and flow chart. The problem is often from the first board in the series that has lights locked on or the connectors on that board or the previous board. From your picture of the lights we cannot tell if the lights that are on are locked up or working correctly. I recommend people take video whenever they have light problems with WOZ so they can easily compare what is happening to the flow chart.

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Hi Attila that flow chart dcfan provided is the perfect resource. I have had woz for 2 years and have had to replace almost a dozen boards now. Don't let that scare u away from this great pin. I don't have much in experience fixing/repairing pins but it's very easy to replace the boards and the help from frank at jjp has been superb he's walked me through the whole process the first time it happened to me. And they have replaced all the faulty boards free of cost except shipping and im 2nd owner and up in Canada.

Don't give up. It is worth figuring it out. My personal favorite out of 9 games. For about three weeks I have been trying to figure out what was going on with my light issue. Tonight I think I have solved it. Make sure you check not only your lights but the cables. I was bypassing a light that was giving my trouble but still had problems. Turns out I was using the same cable. One of the wires was loose on the connector. I feel pretty confident that will fix it.

I have this same problem and talked to jjp this morning. They're charging $20 for the small boards and $70 for the big boards. And that's if I return the bad ones. I had this same problem last year and they did it for free. Did I just talk to the wrong guy? Anyone else been charged for new boards?

No, policy changed.

LTG : )

Hi iv just recently picked up one of these but have noticed a few niggles.
1st one,number 3 LED isn’t lightning up yellow, on the yellow brick road on the start of game play only, when the game moves on and the rest of the GI leds start changing colour etc.
2nd when you have completed WIZARD and extra ball feature is called should the extra ball light be lit ( I think it should ) the extra ball LED does work as iv tried it in test mode.
In ordered test on the LEDs they seem to be out of sink on certain ones.

I have disconnected and bypassed single GI board 4 as it’s not working. Could this be the reason I am having these problems.
Thankyou in advance to any one who has a lot more experience with this machine.

Whatever you bypass physically you have to turn off in the settings menu so that the game will bring the downstream lights back into sync.

Ok thanks I have gone into settings, what do I need to select?

Find the number of the board you took out of the chain and turn it off in the settings. Exit, then reboot the game.

Settings - coil settings scroll down off the bottom of the screen and select Gi 4 NOT WOZ4 and turn off

Scroll down all the way to LED board #4 ( if that is the board you removed ) and turn it off. When you get a new board, and put it in. Be sure and turn it back on.

LTG : )

Wow as easy as that, thanks guys all sorted now. What a fantastic machine this is.

The game can’t make white as a color so what it does is crank up the intensity of the three LEDs it does have - Red Green Blue - to near maximum so as to approach white. Within the whites, however, you can get color variations depending on which led is brightest and the position of the led under the diffuser post (believe it or not that does matter). So you’ll get white that is more pinkish or blueish or whatever. What to do is run through each color test and focus on the boards you are working on. All blue all green all red and see if the board you are focused on has each color present. If not, then one of the LEDs has failed and you can replace the board or not depending on what you want to do. If all colors are there, but when in white test it is still pink or blue or yellow ish, then you can try manipulating the position of the board (this can change the hue / tint or whatever the correct term may be some). If that doesn’t help there is not a lot too be done - you can wiggle the connector and see if there may be cold solder joints to be reflowed but the LEDs themselves are surface mounted. Never ever unplug or plug in the black and violet power plugs with the game on. You can blow things up.

It’s possible but remember that big boards feed small and so on so I wouldn’t say for sure that the problem is being caused by that issue.

Great info in this string. I am using the diagrams to track my light issues with a WOZ RR. The odd thing with my machine is all lights are one position off on the single LED test.

For example, the test for Rainbo(w) lights “o”, Rainb(o)w lights “b” and so forth. Everything is one position off. I am tracking the wires hoping it is an easy fix. Just curious if anyone has witnessed this.

Update - using the diagrams, one board was skipped, causing the sequence to be off. Easy fix.