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(Topic ID: 179824)

Wizard of Oz - need LED issue help

By AttilaK

3 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 25 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by JDHHoover
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders


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#1 3 years ago

Guys, need some assistance here with a wizard of oz. Just picked this up and played a few games then most LED's are not working on the game. I was told to use the reset button, but did not do anything either. Anyone have any suggestions?


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#2 3 years ago

It looks like your lights stop at board 29, the scarecrow rollover switch. Check the connectors between 29 and W6.

#3 3 years ago

One of the light boards have blown u will need a replacement ,easy fix they are wired in serial so the last one that works is the faulty board ( not the first one that doesn't ) .

#4 3 years ago

Open a support ticket with JJP. I had (have) a similar issue. You can bypass a light to test. Unplug the green and red wires frome the first bad led and hook them to the next in line. You also need to bypass the light in the software.

You should use the all white led test to trouble shoot.

I did all this to no avail. JJP support had me unplug and replug the small usb in the silver case. Also the big usb's behind the graphics card. That seemed to work for now.

Update. Issue is still present.

#5 3 years ago

Having similiar issues with my game. Purchased new a few months ago. After a few weeks lightts started doing all crazy things. Found one bad data cable. Took over 2 weeks to get from jjp. Just installed the cable and same issue if not more with the lights.

JJP told me i will basically always have some issue from time to time with lights. Boards were designed with a faulty i c chip. Down the road they might engineer a new board set and cable design. Its just an idea at this time.

Back on the phone with them on monday. I have talked to other woz owners that have had no issues. No idea why my machine always have had issues out of the box

#6 3 years ago

Guys, appreciate all of the responses! I will give this a try at some point today ... I am doing a temp trade with a friend to decide if I want to permanently add a WoZ to my collection. I love the look of the game but now a bit worried about the reliability. It's definitively nice to be able to try this out for a few months. I'll let you know if I am able to solve the problem.

mtp78... sorry to hear about your issues. sounds like it's an ongoing one. that sucks!


#7 3 years ago

I agree with DCFAN. Start with the simple things, then move on to "the board is blown". The light boards on early game were prone to failure, but later games, JJP fixed that issue. Since it was working when you first had it, how likely is it that a faulty board worked for years, then just happened to fail right after you got the game? I'd say it's more likely that a cable wiggled loose in transit. Check the connectors that DCFAN mentioned.

#8 3 years ago

For reference here is the light layout and flow chart. The problem is often from the first board in the series that has lights locked on or the connectors on that board or the previous board. From your picture of the lights we cannot tell if the lights that are on are locked up or working correctly. I recommend people take video whenever they have light problems with WOZ so they can easily compare what is happening to the flow chart.

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#9 3 years ago

DCFAN, thanks for this flow chart! I am going to work on this in the evening and let you know if the problem is solved.


#10 3 years ago

Hi Attila that flow chart dcfan provided is the perfect resource. I have had woz for 2 years and have had to replace almost a dozen boards now. Don't let that scare u away from this great pin. I don't have much in experience fixing/repairing pins but it's very easy to replace the boards and the help from frank at jjp has been superb he's walked me through the whole process the first time it happened to me. And they have replaced all the faulty boards free of cost except shipping and im 2nd owner and up in Canada.

#11 3 years ago

Don't give up. It is worth figuring it out. My personal favorite out of 9 games. For about three weeks I have been trying to figure out what was going on with my light issue. Tonight I think I have solved it. Make sure you check not only your lights but the cables. I was bypassing a light that was giving my trouble but still had problems. Turns out I was using the same cable. One of the wires was loose on the connector. I feel pretty confident that will fix it.

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from Eagles77:

And they have replaced all the faulty boards free of cost except shipping and im 2nd owner and up in Canada.

I have this same problem and talked to jjp this morning. They're charging $20 for the small boards and $70 for the big boards. And that's if I return the bad ones. I had this same problem last year and they did it for free. Did I just talk to the wrong guy? Anyone else been charged for new boards?

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from mozach:

Did I just talk to the wrong guy?

No, policy changed.

LTG : )

1 year later
#14 1 year ago

Hi iv just recently picked up one of these but have noticed a few niggles.
1st one,number 3 LED isn’t lightning up yellow, on the yellow brick road on the start of game play only, when the game moves on and the rest of the GI leds start changing colour etc.
2nd when you have completed WIZARD and extra ball feature is called should the extra ball light be lit ( I think it should ) the extra ball LED does work as iv tried it in test mode.
In ordered test on the LEDs they seem to be out of sink on certain ones.

I have disconnected and bypassed single GI board 4 as it’s not working. Could this be the reason I am having these problems.
Thankyou in advance to any one who has a lot more experience with this machine.

#15 1 year ago

Whatever you bypass physically you have to turn off in the settings menu so that the game will bring the downstream lights back into sync.

#16 1 year ago

Ok thanks I have gone into settings, what do I need to select?

#17 1 year ago

Find the number of the board you took out of the chain and turn it off in the settings. Exit, then reboot the game.

#18 1 year ago

Settings - coil settings scroll down off the bottom of the screen and select Gi 4 NOT WOZ4 and turn off

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Ok thanks I have gone into settings, what do I need to select?

Scroll down all the way to LED board #4 ( if that is the board you removed ) and turn it off. When you get a new board, and put it in. Be sure and turn it back on.

LTG : )

#20 1 year ago

Wow as easy as that, thanks guys all sorted now. What a fantastic machine this is.

3 months later
#21 1 year ago

OK lets go again. I understand all of the above but my problem is that on start up my slings GI are coloured and various gi are coloured during the white test.

Any advice on how to diagnose this fault would be nice.

I have experienced the flickering lights which was a small board that I replaced but I didn't realise that the GI was funky until I fitted the fluorescent sling protectors and noticed a difference left to right in lighting.

Thanks in advance for any advice to fix I have only had this machine for 1 month and it is one of the best I have played so want it to be functioning spot on.

thanks Paul
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#22 1 year ago

The game can’t make white as a color so what it does is crank up the intensity of the three LEDs it does have - Red Green Blue - to near maximum so as to approach white. Within the whites, however, you can get color variations depending on which led is brightest and the position of the led under the diffuser post (believe it or not that does matter). So you’ll get white that is more pinkish or blueish or whatever. What to do is run through each color test and focus on the boards you are working on. All blue all green all red and see if the board you are focused on has each color present. If not, then one of the LEDs has failed and you can replace the board or not depending on what you want to do. If all colors are there, but when in white test it is still pink or blue or yellow ish, then you can try manipulating the position of the board (this can change the hue / tint or whatever the correct term may be some). If that doesn’t help there is not a lot too be done - you can wiggle the connector and see if there may be cold solder joints to be reflowed but the LEDs themselves are surface mounted. Never ever unplug or plug in the black and violet power plugs with the game on. You can blow things up.

#23 1 year ago

Thanks for the info but when I test each board as a single led the light actually is white and seems ok but when in the gi test there are some of the GI that are pink blue and yellow as you can see.

Would I be right in thinking that it could be the first ng board in the matrix that causes the rest to go funky colours??

#24 1 year ago

It’s possible but remember that big boards feed small and so on so I wouldn’t say for sure that the problem is being caused by that issue.

4 months later
#25 1 year ago

Great info in this string. I am using the diagrams to track my light issues with a WOZ RR. The odd thing with my machine is all lights are one position off on the single LED test.

For example, the test for Rainbo(w) lights “o”, Rainb(o)w lights “b” and so forth. Everything is one position off. I am tracking the wires hoping it is an easy fix. Just curious if anyone has witnessed this.

Update - using the diagrams, one board was skipped, causing the sequence to be off. Easy fix.

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