Thanks. I bypassed 28, disabled in the settings and then the lower left section worked all scrambled to hell for about a minute.
Check those cables good. The pins come out easily and the wires break near the ends easily. Scrambled might indicate that kind of situation. You can swap cables if you find one of a good length. I know there is one I think near the top right which is really long and easy to bypass or maybe is at the end of the string, I can't recall.
Can I do it while the game is on or do I need to do it one at time after shutting it off?
Just the data cables, that is.
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:Can I do it while the game is on or do I need to do it one at time after shutting it off?
Just the data cables, that is.
Game on. That is fine for data cables. Only turn game off for power cables.
If you need a long one for testing, borrow the one from W1 the fish board. It runs over to the TOTO lights. Then they won't work and the right side of the playfield running up to the rainbow lights. But you'll have a long data harness for testing from one to another.
LTG : )
It appears that between your W5 and your Tinman light board 28 it is not working.
Try bypassing the W5 board and see if that fixes it. If that does not work then reconnect W5 and bypass 28.
Remember you have to do this in both the settings and the cabling.
Quoted from DCFAN:It appears that between your W5 and your Tinman light board 28 it is not working.
Try bypassing the W5 board and see if that fixes it. If that does not work then reconnect W5 and bypass 28.
Remember you have to do this in both the settings and the cabling.
Yeah.. I already did all that and the lights never got right. The current state of random colors is the only result.
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:I already did all that and the lights never got right.
Did you turn #28 off in settings ? Or if stuck a new one in, turn it back on ?
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Did you turn #28 off in settings ? Or if stuck a new one in, turn it back on ?
LTG : )
Yep. I need boards and cables to keep testing at this point. I wonder if anyone has leftover from doing the 2.0 upgrade.
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:Yep. I need boards and cables to keep testing at this point. I wonder if anyone has leftover from doing the 2.0 upgrade.
Probably the best idea at this point. Short of biting the bullet and converting to 2.0
LTG : )
I would try some different cables and/or bypass more than just one of W5 and 28. Try bypassing both at the same time and different cables from another part of the game.
Also, just to make sure we are on the same page, the tin man 28 is the rollover switch lightboard, not the tinman spelled out light.
wozlight (resized).JPGThere are usually 1x light board sets being sold from upgrades. Definitely pick a set up with cables if you aren't going 2.0 soon.
Ugh.. Here is what I've done in the past few minutes.
- Disabled 28 & connected W5 directly to W2 - Same non-stop random colors
- Enabled 28, Disabled W2 & connected 28 to 12 - Same non-stop random colors
- Enabled W2 and connected everything like normal - Same non-stop random colors
I'm assuming I need to follow this process until I find the bad cable/board?
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:I'm assuming I need to follow this process until I find the bad cable/board?
Don't disable them for testing. Only do that if you remove a LED board from the chain and by pass it, until you can replace it.
Take a long data harness, start from a known working one farther back in the chain, then by pass boards going forward one at a time to rule out bad LED board or one not passing data cleanly.
LTG : )
I physically bypassed boards as I went through the chain to get everything to light up.
Right now W5, W1 & W3 are bypassed and all other LEDs are lit.
I went into LED Test and set them all to white, but a few are red and they continue to be incorrect as I cycle through the color tests.
IMG_1203 (resized).jpegIMG_1204 (resized).jpegIMG_1205 (resized).jpegIMG_1206 (resized).jpegWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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