(Topic ID: 85532)

Wizard Of Oz - 3.00 - Now Available


By Pinchroma

5 years ago



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  • 259 posts
  • 95 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by tonycip
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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There are 259 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 6.
#151 5 years ago

The amount of "flipper wear" that you save isn't worth it to me...but sure add it as an option if easy to do. If not, spend that time making the munchkin modes cooler.

#152 5 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

The amount of "flipper wear" that you save isn't worth it to me...but sure add it as an option if easy to do. If not, spend that time making the munchkin modes cooler.

When flipper rebuilds are required of the lower flippers, they'll also be needed for the upper flippers since they're all flipping at the same time. Why would that be OK? There's no need for it, those flippers are used 1/30th the time, let them sit. I don't want to rebuild flippers of hundreds of games unnecessarily because one guy refuses to budge. There needs to be an option. If there's not, an aftermarket solution will come and it's completely unnecessary for that to need to happen..

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#153 5 years ago

Haha I honestly can't imagine anyone objecting to this...

#154 5 years ago

**** Fixed****Has something changed with the winkie guard. Mine never popped up after update! I lost my winkie.
Must have been coincidence that it stopped working. The switch came out of adjustment and thought it was up.

#155 5 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Haha I honestly can't imagine anyone objecting to this...

The only person they matters objects: Keith, the programmer.

#156 5 years ago

got to agree with rob

#157 5 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

Has something changed with the winkie guard. Mine never popped up after update! I lost my winkie.

it should always pop up at the very least when you turn on the machine and start a game, if it isnt, then the is probably something mechanically wrong with the winkie drop target (loose switch, etc etc) I would post on the jjp google group or at the very least, open a ticket with JJp support, Lloyd will get you back up in no time if something needs to be tweaked or adjusted.

#158 5 years ago
Quoted from dannunz:

Bowin told me the plan is to do a tutorial of woz 3.0 at papa. Can't wait to see him playing it should be cool.

This would be great!

#159 5 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

it should always pop up at the very least when you turn on the machine and start a game, if it isnt, then the is probably something mechanically wrong with the winkie drop target (loose switch, etc etc) I would post on the jjp google group or at the very least, open a ticket with JJp support, Lloyd will get you back up in no time if something needs to be tweaked or adjusted.

It was working fine. I finished my last game and then updated and now no winkie guard. Lloyd is next on the list.

#160 5 years ago

Damn I was playing last night and now my rescue Dorothy door won't open... I here the motor but the door doesn’t move .
after looking at the assemble it looks like there’s 2 set screws have become loose. the machine has about 30 games on it. Do you want to know what you have to do to tighten those set screws?
remove the whole castle play field.. a little lock tite may be in order. . where do I send the bill for my time to fix this?

It 's not that big of a deal I'm more then capable of digging in and fixing it. but what does someone do who isn’t?
the game is still incredible!!
as long as I'm posting... what do you have to do to get haunted multiball?

#161 5 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

as long as I'm posting... what do you have to do to get haunted multiball

Haunted multiball is started by playing all of the other haunted modes. So the fifth time you collect Haunted it will be the multiball. And the new feature to disable the pops when collect is lit makes that just a bit easier.

#162 5 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

. Do you want to know what you have to do to tighten those set screws?
remove the whole castle play field.. a little lock tite may be in order. . where do I send the bill for my time to fix this?

It 's not that big of a deal I'm more then capable of digging in and fixing it. but what does someone do who isn’t?

They need to learn. Pinball comes with a cost of ownership and no one should be expecting to do nothing except play.

#163 5 years ago

Just updated to 3.0 and I get a message on my LCD that says coin door is open, interlocks disabled and play field high power. Can't get this message to go away even when coin door is closed and I have restarted machine. Any advice would be appreciated....thx

#164 5 years ago

Leotis, this guy had same issue, check the door switch connectors.

Quoted from jamieflowers:

My message never went away because the interconnect was disconnected at the switch. It was like that before the update but the graphic never showed up before. Its normal when the door is actually open.

#165 5 years ago
Quoted from Leotis:

Just updated to 3.0 and I get a message on my LCD that says coin door is open, interlocks disabled and play field high power. Can't get this message to go away even when coin door is closed and I have restarted machine. Any advice would be appreciated....thx

Make sure the high power interlock switch is working, make sure the wires to it are on and in the right spots.

With the coin door open, push the high power interlock switch in, just to be sure the door is closing it properly.

LTG : )™

#166 5 years ago

This is the first version of the software to alert about the door so it's likely been broken a while. Check the switches.

#167 5 years ago

I finally put some serious games in on 3.0 last night and it's pretty solid. 2.0 was a great leap ahead but and 3.0 has the polish that really makes the game feel complete to me. I'm way, way, way far away from SOTR.

Only one glitch I noticed one time was that I was awarded Multiball from the Throne Room, but the multiball never started. I wasn't paying attention at the time but I know no other modes were running, so it was kind of weird. Never did it in subsequent games.

I'm also not crazy about the new speech triggered by the State Fair balloon for TNPLH. It seems awkward to me.

Other than that, 3.0 has been great.

#168 5 years ago

I wonder if there are any Easter eggs yet in the programming. You would think they would throw at least three or four of them in there. I would love to see some fun humor, for example after completing TOTO a pic of Dorthy on the screen holding Toto and he looks up at her and a cartoon caption pops up with Toto saying "I miss the rains down in Africa." Ok I saw it on facebook, but it made me think you could probably come up with a few funny things like that to throw in...

Tom

#169 5 years ago
Quoted from homebrood:

I wonder if there are any Easter eggs yet in the programming. You would think they would throw at least three or four of them in there.....
Tom

Ok, I wasn't gonna say anything but, I was in the middle of a great 3.0 game and I swear I heard.....moooo! - yes a cow! Ok, maybe I was just high on having a great game, and I was dreaming new sounds........no, I definitely heard m.....
...naw, musta been dreamin'....

#170 5 years ago
Quoted from TeeJayN:

Ok, I wasn't gonna say anything but, I was in the middle of a great 3.0 game and I swear I heard.....moooo! - yes a cow! Ok, maybe I was just high on having a great game, and I was dreaming new sounds........no, I definitely heard m.....
...naw, musta been dreamin'....

You did. When you collect a cow for HOADC it now plays a "moooo" sound instead of the the clip-clop of a horse hooves. Both sounds were new in 3.0.

#171 5 years ago

I think horses of a different color are sometimes cows.

Don't have time to effuse praise so let me just say Keith is the best and the man's work is art.

#172 5 years ago

White HOADC shots come up as cows on the screen. Always have, but the moo is new!

#173 5 years ago

I've been able to spend some time with the 3.0 code and I feel that the code has finally arrived

#174 5 years ago

Thanks for info on interlock switch. There was a connector that fell off probably a long time ago and was not exposed until 3.0. All good now..

#175 5 years ago

Not too stoked on 3.0. I updated and after a couple games the LEDs are not working on the RAINBOW word. Also I have had a couple phantom winged monkeys. Monkey comes down to grab the ball even though the ball is not even close to there. Any suggestions?

#176 5 years ago

Loving 3.0. Surely they cannot add anything else? Put a clip up on you tube if you haven't made it to the witch. So many call outs when it's all "happening". well done to Keith and the team.

#177 5 years ago

Wife and I are thoroughly enjoying our updated WOZ. So many call outs and at one point I saw the emerald city with fireworks over it and the pf was lit up to accentuate the graphics. Was AWESOME!!

#178 5 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

Not too stoked on 3.0. I updated and after a couple games the LEDs are not working on the RAINBOW word. Also I have had a couple phantom winged monkeys. Monkey comes down to grab the ball even though the ball is not even close to there. Any suggestions?

Well can't speak to the lights... But I think it was 2.0 that added being able to capture Dorothy(tm) from the left orbit. Sometimes the pops push the ball up high enough to trigger the orbit switch, but not far enough to get caught in the magnet. So the monkey doesn't bring anything up. However it is locked virtually and the yellow arrow on the backboard goes out.

#179 5 years ago

Played the new code for the first time at league last night. Man was it Sweet! Best part was that it was sitting next to a LoTR and a TSPP. Keith Johnson heaven I tell ya!

#180 5 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

Well can't speak to the lights... But I think it was 2.0 that added being able to capture Dorothy(tm) from the left orbit. Sometimes the pops push the ball up high enough to trigger the orbit switch, but not far enough to get caught in the magnet. So the monkey doesn't bring anything up. However it is locked virtually and the yellow arrow on the backboard goes out.

That might be what has been happening. I do believe the ball was heading up the left orbit. But I gotta figure out the Rainbow letters. They flash once when I first turn on the machine but then that is it.

#181 5 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

That might be what has been happening. I do believe the ball was heading up the left orbit. But I gotta figure out the Rainbow letters. They flash once when I first turn on the machine but then that is it.

Well open up a ticket with JJP first thing. And if you are comfortable working on games, the wiring chart for the boards is printed on the computer case cover in the game. Go back one board from the rainbow lights, and if that board works, check the connectors leading out of it. You either have a bad board, or a cable issue (unplugged). The last working board is where to start, and if reseating the cables doesn't work, Lloyd will get you a new board.

#182 5 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

That might be what has been happening. I do believe the ball was heading up the left orbit. But I gotta figure out the Rainbow letters. They flash once when I first turn on the machine but then that is it.

I just updated - it's so quick and easy - but I now have to open a ticket as it blew a light board - I have no lights on the right side, and then the lower left tnplh is out also. this just sucks - sorry to be so blunt. I will go open a ticket - I just want to buy some of these light boards as spares so my game isn't down while I wait - I got to play 1/2 a ball before it blew.

thanks ed

#183 5 years ago
Quoted from edcianci:

I just updated - it's so quick and easy - but I now have to open a ticket as it blew a light board - I have no lights on the right side, and then the lower left tnplh is out also. this just sucks - sorry to be so blunt. I will go open a ticket - I just want to buy some of these light boards as spares so my game isn't down while I wait - I got to play 1/2 a ball before it blew.
thanks ed

Damn so maybe I blew an LED board? That would totally suck. Is there a board that just runs the rainbow? I would doubt it. How do I check it?

#184 5 years ago

No need to be unable to play a game while waiting for a replacement light board. I posted the below on a previous page. To get the game up and running do the following:

First, lift the playfield (put something between the apron and the top of the head to prevent the balloon bumper from hitting.

Since the boards are connected in series, try to find the last working board. The next one after it should be the broken one. Once you locate the bad board, bypass it by removing the wire going to it's input (green) and also remove the wire going into the input of the next board in line (it will be the wire from the output of the bad board). Finally take the wire that was going into the input of the bad board and put it into the next board in line.

Board #15 is a common one to go out.

So far, I've only had the small GI boards go out. If the bad board is in an important place, like a TOTO insert, you can take a GI board from somewhere else, like the back of the playfield and swap it.
After you've bypassed the bad board, turn the machine on. If all the lights come on you got the right board. To make the lights work correctly when playing a game, go into the Game Settings menu. Scroll down to the number of the bypassed board and set it to "off".

That should get you up and running again until your replacement board comes in.

#185 5 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

Damn so maybe I blew an LED board? That would totally suck. Is there a board that just runs the rainbow? I would doubt it. How do I check it?

A single board runs the rainbow and it is the end of a string so nothing downstream to go out. Check the cable going to the rainbow board (input and output), it may have come loose. If that is not it most likely the rainbow board.

#186 5 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

Damn so maybe I blew an LED board? That would totally suck. Is there a board that just runs the rainbow? I would doubt it. How do I check it?

I lost rainbow also - and the lights right below it - also follow the yellow - and tnplh. I had it happen before - it gets frustrating as I can't play it without the lights working. I read above - but I am not going to try that - I just wish when they send a replacement board they would send an extra - or let you buy an extra - that way when one dies you have one on hand - this is so bad for an operator if he loses a board he has to wait for a new one to come in.

thanks ed

#187 5 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Damn I was playing last night and now my rescue Dorothy door won't open... I here the motor but the door doesn’t move .
after looking at the assemble it looks like there’s 2 set screws have become loose. the machine has about 30 games on it. Do you want to know what you have to do to tighten those set screws?
remove the whole castle play field.. a little lock tite may be in order. . where do I send the bill for my time to fix this?
It 's not that big of a deal I'm more then capable of digging in and fixing it. but what does someone do who isn’t?
the game is still incredible!!
as long as I'm posting... what do you have to do to get haunted multiball?

Hi Tony,

I had the exact same issue with my ECWOZLE a couple of months ago. You will need to remove the castle playfield to get at the mechanism underneath it to tighten up both set screws for this single castle door.

It took me about 45 minutes from start to finish and I was extremely methodical when I removed the castle playfield as I didn't want to mess anything up. The manual contains instructions for removing the castle playfield.

Gord

#188 5 years ago
Quoted from Borygard:

Now, PLEASE add the option to turn off the upper flippers when the playfield isn't active. Doesn't need to be default, but at least give the option.
I said please.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

pleasePleasePleasePleasePlease!

C'mon Keith... what's your favorite drink? We'll send you a case....

#189 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballHelp:

pleasePleasePleasePleasePlease!
C'mon Keith... what's your favorite drink? We'll send you a case....

Keith never cracked on TSPP for the exact same thing, and I doubt he will here. I know we are talking two different games here, but almost 3 years ago he said this:

"The answer is easy: Since nothing is 100% reliable, the best course
of action is to always enable the flippers. I could easily have done
something and made it bulletproof as possible, but ultimately there
would always be something that would cause undesireable cut-outs or
not let the flippers work when they should, so I dismissed the idea.

keith"

And I'm on his side with this one. I would be really irritated if I was going for something on an upper playfield and the flipper didn't flip because the game didn't think the ball should be there. Just from playing it for a while, WOZ seems to have an insanely complex code base. I would hope that he is pretty much against changes that don't have much benefit and could cause other issues. And frankly I don't see flipper linkage wear as being that big a deal. When I need to do a rebuild on my WOZ, yes, the cost will be higher because I need to buy 5 mechs instead of 3. I'm fine with that. And if I owned the other game he was actually talking about here, I would think the same thing. If the upper flips were weak or bad, I'd just rebuild them. And if I couldn't do it myself, I'd pay to have it done so the game played well. Most games I buy are needing a flipper rebuild, or at least new sleeves as they come in the door, so they are not that big a deal.

#190 5 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

And I'm on his side with this one. I would be really irritated if I was going for something on an upper playfield and the flipper didn't flip because the game didn't think the ball should be there.

Then leave the (wanted) setting "on" and even make that the default. I don't see the problem in having it be a setting and allowing each person to set it up to their liking. I don't know the complexity involved in adding this setting, nor do I know if existing code can easily be used to (de)activate the flippers - although it seems that those hooks already exist. That said, I'd rather this coding effort (if not trivial) be spent elsewhere.

I understand if you don't want it, but I don't see the argument for not wanting it to be a setting. To me it's just as arbitrary as a "ball save" setting. Don't want it? Don't activate it.

#191 5 years ago

I had the same thing happen on mine. Frustating that you can't tighten the scews while the door is slid over the motor spindle or if you can I could't figure it out. only delay I had was getting the back nut off the wire ramp that launches the ball up to the castle. Went and bought a longer nut driver just to be extra careful. I used a tad of lock tight so hopefully won't happen again.

Quoted from GRB1959:

Hi Tony,
I had the exact same issue with my ECWOZLE a couple of months ago. You will need to remove the castle playfield to get at the mechanism underneath it to tighten up both set screws for this single castle door.
It took me about 45 minutes from start to finish and I was extremely methodical when I removed the castle playfield as I didn't want to mess anything up. The manual contains instructions for removing the castle playfield.
Gord

#192 5 years ago
Quoted from edcianci:

I lost rainbow also - and the lights right below it - also follow the yellow - and tnplh. I had it happen before - it gets frustrating as I can't play it without the lights working. I read above - but I am not going to try that - I just wish when they send a replacement board they would send an extra - or let you buy an extra - that way when one dies you have one on hand - this is so bad for an operator if he loses a board he has to wait for a new one to come in.
thanks ed

Ed, I don't quite understand the reluctance to bypass a board and get your game operational again. You will have to go through the same troubleshooting steps anyway to find the bad board and let JJP know which one needs to be replaced. Once you know where the bad board is, bypassing it is about as easy as replacing it (sometimes easier in that you don't have to remove the board).

-10
#193 5 years ago

I thought the board issues were gone? It's not possible you're boards are blowing up, no way. It's not happening. Never was an issue.

#194 5 years ago

nothing is easy for me - but i am afraid it will knock out another board - the first time i blew a board is when i changed the settings of the lights - before that i was one of the lucky ones (even though i have an early game) that never blew a board - right after i changed the settings of the lights i blew a board on the first ball.

you don't get these boards quickly - and i would hate to have one board on the way and another one blows and have to wait even longer. hey if they tell me to do this then i will - but suppose they say i blew the 2nd one by hacking my game. i have no mods and have done nothing to my game as i need the warranty as there seems to be lots of problems out there with the early games.

as of now i have not heard from anybody regarding my ticket i created last night - i just got the standard email reply.

i did not find it that easy to replace these light boards - i know it's easy for most people - but not for me - hey it took me 45 minutes to put aurich's helen backglass in my acdc premium

i thought that would take 2 minutes - stern use some type of pasty tape on the translight in like 6 or 8 spots (don't remember) - so i had to use goof off to get the old translight out - i am sure others did it in 2 minutes - not me

thanks ed

#195 5 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

And I'm on his side with this one. I would be really irritated if I was going for something on an upper playfield and the flipper didn't flip because the game didn't think the ball should be there.

We went through this before. #1, the option could be user-configurable so it's a non-issue for anyone who doesn't want it. #2, it would DRAMATICALLY improve the reliability and wear on the upper flippers. I cannot imagine an operator who would not prefer to have this option. #3, if the ball accidentally flies into the upper playfield, it would be appropriate for the flippers to not work because the player has not earned the right to get to that area of the game yet. It would undermine the ruleset.

Also, it would not be difficult at all to implement this rule software-wise. The game already knows if a ball is in the upper playfield because it has all sorts of special sounds and things it does when the ball is up there.

On top of this, it would be easy to activate the upper flippers if ANY switch was triggered on the upper playfield, so you could disable the upper flippers and still have the upper playfield suddently become active if a ball was sensed up there, so there's really no reason to not have this feature.

Quoted from DaveH:

I would hope that he is pretty much against changes that don't have much benefit and could cause other issues. And frankly I don't see flipper linkage wear as being that big a deal. When I need to do a rebuild on my WOZ, yes, the cost will be higher because I need to buy 5 mechs instead of 3.

For operators, this feature is incredibly valuable. It's not just a case of having to service 5 flipper assemblies instead of 3 (which is still an expensive proposition for games on location), but when things break down, games don't make money and people complain. Anything that can improve the reliability of a game is most definitely a significant benefit, especially since these games are so expensive now -- they should be exploiting any and all new technology to make the game more solid and more reliable.

At this point, assuming JJP is still basically making games to be commercially-operated, it would be business suicide to not build in any feature that would make the game more reliable on location.

#196 5 years ago
Quoted from edcianci:

nothing is easy for me - but i am afraid it will knock out another board - the first time i blew a board is when i changed the settings of the lights - before that i was one of the lucky ones (even though i have an early game) that never blew a board - right after i changed the settings of the lights i blew a board on the first ball.
you don't get these boards quickly - and i would hate to have one board on the way and another one blows and have to wait even longer. hey if they tell me to do this then i will - but suppose they say i blew the 2nd one by hacking my game. i have no mods and have done nothing to my game as i need the warranty as there seems to be lots of problems out there with the early games.

You're not alone Ed, repairs usually take longer for me than I think they will too.

I don't think bypassing a bad light board is considered "hacking" by JJP since they added the ability to compensate for a bad board (after it has been bypassed) to the software just so that operators and people such as yourself could get the game operational while waiting for a replacement board to arrive. Lloyd can confirm, of course.

I was fortunate in that my first light board went bad after installing version 1.25, where the software compensation was first added. I have also been fortunate that all of my bad light boards have been the small single general illumination ones. Even though it took a while to get my replacements (my first order of replacements got lost in the mail), it wasn't a big deal to me because other than missing GI in a few places, the game was completely functional after I bypassed the bad boards and turned them "off" in software.

#197 5 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

Ed, I don't quite understand the reluctance to bypass a board and get your game operational again. You will have to go through the same troubleshooting steps anyway to find the bad board and let JJP know which one needs to be replaced. Once you know where the bad board is, bypassing it is about as easy as replacing it (sometimes easier in that you don't have to remove the board).

There's nothing to bypass. The rainbow is a single big board at an endpoint.

#198 5 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

There's nothing to bypass. The rainbow is a single big board at an endpoint.

Judging by his description:

"I lost rainbow also - and the lights right below it - also follow the yellow - and tnplh"

He probably lost board #15 or #16, which are the single GI boards before TNPLH. These can be easily bypassed.

Question is are the "BALL" lights still working?

Edit: You can trace the connections by eye or follow the lamp board map on page C50 of the manual. It gets easier after the first time.

#199 5 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

There's nothing to bypass. The rainbow is a single big board at an endpoint.

I would love to check connections to and from the rainbow board. Looking underneath and in the manual and can't for the life of me figure out what would be the rainbow board. This is insane... I can't imagine trying to fix a serious issue... I have 7 lights not working and can't even find where they are underneath. This sucks. I just tried pushing in all connections... Still no rainbow lights.

#200 5 years ago

Isn't the rainbow board on the Munchkin playfield?

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