(Topic ID: 252842)

Witness!!! Mad Max Fury Road Homebrew


By SickNate

9 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 407 posts
  • 110 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by vireland
  • Topic is favorited by 169 Pinsiders

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    There are 407 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 9.
    #351 44 days ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    I think if I was stuck in a room with Ben Heck

    You'd end up drunk.

    #352 44 days ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    You'd end up drunk.

    LOL no downside there ...

    #353 44 days ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    You'd end up drunk.

    Ben pees liquor?

    #354 44 days ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    Ben pees liquor?

    I mean, I can't confirm it, but it wouldn't surprise me.

    Image1 (resized).png

    #355 43 days ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    it almost feels like they're too far apart? usually bumpers are about 4" apart center to center, but at least 1.5 of that is the skirts. I wonder how the actual 'area where the ball won't trigger anything' distance between your bumpers and a regular set would compare

    here's the Dims of PB to PB

    pbDistance (resized).png
    #356 43 days ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    here's the Dims of PB to PB
    [quoted image]

    This doesn't really help. Basically if your metal CAP is smaller than a normal skirt (it seems like it is), then that's part of the problem. You'd need to make the pop bumpers closer to account for that or make your cap area when the ball first contacts both top and bottom larger.

    #357 43 days ago

    The skirts are 2.000” diameter.

    #358 43 days ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    The skirts are 2.000” diameter.

    I just measured a Bally/Williams skirt and it's ~2.375" in diameter. So you're probably 1/2" an inch off or more (when the ball touches the traditional skirt it doesn't trigger the pop, it needs to push down on it, which is probably 1/8" or more in) which can make a difference.

    #359 43 days ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    My next machine I’ll use the same switch style for rollovers and trough.
    Any mfgs reading this thread, if your interested in prototype/R&D/contract machining let me know.
    Think I might get a cnc mill in my garage so I can putter on weekends

    You should patent this ASAP.

    #360 41 days ago

    Just be sure to Trucoat it....

    trucoate (resized).png
    #361 36 days ago

    All right, gi and insert lights in.
    On to coding.

    You have three choices pinside.
    1. I go dark for a month or two (or more) until we have something cool to show you.
    2. I go over rules/modes planned so far... and maybe listen to suggestions from y’all
    3. I go over what I’ve learned and what I’d do different next time. Ideas that worked and why....and the ones that didn’t

    90CA0CD7-4CE4-40C7-86B1-1546E809597E (resized).jpeg
    #362 36 days ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    3. I go over what I’ve learned and what I’d do different next time. Ideas that worked and why....and the ones that didn’t

    Number 3 for me and I'm a guy who could never undertake a project like this. I am in awe of your capabilities and envious of what you are doing.

    #363 36 days ago

    3.

    The journey is the reward. Skipping all that would suck.

    #364 36 days ago

    Definitely 3!

    #365 36 days ago

    Definitely _not_ choice 1.

    #366 36 days ago

    2 and 3 cause I’m greedy

    #367 36 days ago

    Three, we want to see everything!

    #368 36 days ago

    First lesson/regret is "know the medium".

    I didn't know that much about pinball when I started this project.

    About 4 years ago I bought a NIB Metallica pin for my home bar/man cave.
    I did it because I like Metallica and thought it'd make my bar cool.
    I had probably spent somewhere between 10 and 20 bucks in my entire life on pinball before that.
    When I first played it I thought " I could make one of these, that would be fun".
    In that moment I knew one day I would make one.

    So I only had it for 3 or 4 months and sold it because I knew I was moving and didn't want to have to haul it with the move.
    The only work I ever did on it was adding a shaker motor and changing 1 fuse.

    Anyways, that was my entire pinball experience before CADing up what you see in the 1st post.

    In the last couple months I've read a lot on line and listened to some podcasts.
    I think where I've failed on this pin is toys.
    I took for granted the importance of them to enthusiasts.
    I plan to add stuff around the playfield but at this point it won't be integrated in the design.
    Best I can come up with other than vehicles squeezed where I can, is a pinball in a birdcage suspended over the magnet.
    If I'm lucky when the magnet flings the ball, the cage will dance.
    Long story short , I wish I had done more research.

    Lesson 2.
    Pick a theme with off the shelf toys or buy a 3D printer
    It seems George Miller and Warner Bros. were in a lawsuit shortly after the release of Fury Road...leading to not many toys/models.

    Lesson 3.
    exactly what Vireland said... "It's the journey"
    A couple months into this I was completely frustrated at how long it was taking.
    It actually made me depressed.
    I told myself I needed to enjoy the time spent making it or just go buy a pin.
    And that's what I've done.
    It was ego getting in the way, In the first post I said 9 months and I knew people would read that and roll their eyes.
    In my defense...I thought I'd just do mechanics, and art and code would fall on other people...so I did do my part in 9 months

    Lesson 4.
    wood sucks .
    I can't believe manufacturers are still using wood on machines that now cost 6 to 9 Gs.
    It moves, warp,s splinters etc.
    Shit will perfect, then 3 days later won't.
    the lesson is go oversize for all holes and cutouts.

    lesson 5.
    Own a pinball machine while attempting to build one.
    I had to figure a bunch of things out by scouring the internet for pics.
    Many wheels reinvented for no reason.
    There are a lot of things that are easy if you have something to measure.

    lesson 6
    Homebrew pinball is all about the community.
    I would never have gotten as far as I have if not for tons of work by others in the homebrew community.
    My talent is in machining and CAD. I did this in solidworks and will freely give all files to anyone that wants them.
    Solidworks ain't cheap and most of the homebrew community is using Fusion360.
    On my next build I'll use Fusion so maybe my work can better help others.

    Lesson 7
    Stealing shots works great.(no shame in my game)
    Everything you read online says you have to make a cheap whitewood and get all your shots dialed in before CNC routing.
    I disagree.
    First, how do you know you are accurately measuring your whitewood to transfer to CAD.
    Answer, If you don't have a huge expensive CMM you don't.
    Second, How do you know your art will line up if you don't draw it in CAD.
    Answer ... see above
    I would highly suggest drawing up everything in CAD first.
    You can get the whitewood CNC routed for $100-$150.
    Try that out, if stuff feels off/doesn't work....adjust in CAD and re-route.
    This may cost 2-3 hundies...but when done you'll have a file that you can use where the artwork will line up perfectly.
    Use CAD to visualize the shots and you'll be time ahead, or just steal them.
    In the attached pic I sketched up how the ball will come off of the orbits.
    Draw a ball tangent to the end of the orbit, then draw a line parallel to the end of the orbit. then draw another ball at the flippers.
    Now I don't have to worry about how the ball will come off the orbit, I know it'll land slightly higher on the flippers than the pic because of gravity(depending on speed).
    It seems like a no brainer, but I've seen tons of games where the orbit angles are wrong.

    Upper flipper shots are tricky.
    I knew I wanted to have a right upper flipper and a ramp.
    I watched youtube videos of games with upper flippers and ramps for that flipper.
    Spiderman seemed to fit the bill.
    I found A PDF of the playfield in an instruction manual online.
    Dropped it in my CAD as an overlay and Voila.
    Just the right amount of difficulty and satisfaction.
    This can be done for every shot. There's 50 years of pinball shots for the taking

    I'll post more later.

    orbitshot (resized).pngvenomRamp (resized).png
    #369 36 days ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    I think where I've failed on this pin is toys.
    I took for granted the importance of them to enthusiasts.
    I plan to add stuff around the playfield but at this point it won't be integrated in the design.
    Best I can come up with other than vehicles squeezed where I can, is a pinball in a birdcage suspended over the magnet.
    If I'm lucky when the magnet flings the ball, the cage will dance.
    Long story short , I wish I had done more research.

    You still have time to integrate some that could be cool. Take Nordman's "wheel of fate" cut from Elvira and use that as inspiration for the "Wheel of Valhalla" on the apron by the left outlane. Mechanical (steering?) wheel that spins with sound when the ball drains on that side and awards you a reward (or also chance for something negative?).

    You also have room for Medieval Madness type troll popups on your mid-playfield.

    Lots of toy opportunities left on your design. Also, it would be nice if the ports lit up before the ball exited on the backboard then faded out as the ball left.

    #370 36 days ago

    I’m enjoying your journey so far. You’ve done a great job on the design and all the metal is awesome. While a couple cool toys would be even more fun, I’d get coding! You want to enjoy your design and get that buzz back that you had when you started? Start designing some fun modes and hurry ups! Add movie callouts and music and some stills. Then play it a lot and revel in your accomplishments. You’ll get inspiration, enjoy your game and think of 100 things you want to add next. Love the lighting so far!

    #371 36 days ago

    Vireland,

    We are done mechanically. I'm not saying it can't be improved, I'm saying we want to get on to coding.
    Good enough is the enemy of perfection, perfection is the enemy of completion.

    This ties into another lesson learned.
    Everything thing added mechanically needs to be coded.
    I know everyone is thinking " no shit sherlock"
    But I never once thought about coding when adding stuff.
    Just "I'll cross that bridge when I get there".
    Whelp, I'm at the fucking bridge, all I can think now is "What have I done?"

    Another quick example of working out shots in CAD.
    I knew I could make the newton ball shot from the lower right flipper becasue I drew it up in pic 1.
    in pic 2 you can see the angle the trapped ball will leave when hit.
    This is how I decided how far off center to make the ball rest when trapped.
    Pic 3 the red arrows point to the bottom point of the ball.
    I know a second ball will not get trapped up here because these are in the air.
    I did zero math and had pretty good confidence these would all work.
    Technically CAD did a whole lot of math.
    And I had so much confidence that I didn't post these techniques until after confirming they worked.
    I'm sure a lot of this stuff obvious to most, I just want to show people on the fence about doing a homebrew that it isn't that bad.

    newton0 (resized).pngnewton1 (resized).pngnewton2 (resized).png
    #372 36 days ago

    Another HUGE lesson learned is to keep in mind maintenance when designing stuff.
    I alluded to it earlier with the pop bumpers but it'll be the worst with the behind the backwood diverters.
    plain and simple the whole playfield has to come out to work on those. And that is a flawed design.
    In hindsight i would just do 2 sets of optos per turnaround. And if a second ball gets locked..just bring down the plunger long enough to release one ball, then back up...simple.

    But because both scoops can hold a ball, and I can make any ramp divert to the lower scoop, I will be able to do some interesting things though.
    If a ball is locked in the upper scoop, on a ramp hit I can make the ball instantly shoot out of the upper scoop. To the player it'll feel like magic.
    Then the next time the upper scoop is hit, the ball can instantly come out of the lower scoop.

    I would consider having all 3 ramps going behind the backboard to 180 the ball a design success.
    I love metal ramps but they kinda of hog the view of the playfield. Also, I think it's slick that the ball gates(with actuators) for the orbit are directly under 2 of the ramps.
    I know, I know, don't break my arm patting myself on the back... I'll even it out with some bad choices.

    Another lesson is HAVE A BACKUP PLAN.

    I was worried about the lower scoop slowing the game down from to many balls going in.
    See some of the first posts on this thread as to why I was worried.
    My back up plan was adding a controllable ball gate if it turn out that way.
    It didn't, it actually barely goes in.

    The thing I was most worried about was the pop bumpers...and for some reason no backup plan.
    in hindsight I should've routed the playfiels with a huge .125" deep pocket the size of the pop bumper area. then bolt a big flat piece of metal in that area.
    Then I could swap out design revisions at will.... oh well, next time.

    Another shot that could've gone better is the behind the upper flipper shot. It's hittable but damn hard.
    I finally realized why it's so hard...It can't be banked in because of the slingshot below.
    Other games(spiderman comes to mind for some reason) you can bank off the targets into the back of the flipper that bounces the shot in.
    You hit the upper sling on this machine and the ball is on the other side of the playfield.
    Worse, if you hit the bottom tip of the flipper bottom, it banks into the slingshot and straight to the leftside outlane.
    I swapped out the top star post to a smaller diameter post and it helped a lot...still a very dangerous shot.
    Maybe I can code in for the autofire to turn off for that sling when the right flipper is held.

    #373 36 days ago

    Another lesson that I'm sure is a no brainer to everyone who's worked on pins.
    I learned the hard way.
    First step for every coil is to SOLDER AND CRIMP ON A CONNECTOR. see pic.
    do this as soon as you get the coils in the mail.
    Like a Jackass I just hardwired..er um hard soldered... everything right on the playfield.
    I did this knowing I would have to do it again when swapping out the playfield for one with art work

    coil (resized).jpg
    #374 36 days ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    Another lesson that I'm sure is a no brainer to everyone who's worked on pins.
    I learned the hard way.
    First step for every coil is to SOLDER AND CRIMP ON A CONNECTOR. see pic.

    This is the HEP way.

    #375 36 days ago

    Next lesson,
    When wiring, first do all the insert lights, then the switches, then the coils.
    I think my wiring wouldn't look like the catastrophe that it is If I had done that.
    maybe the first 2 steps can swap but definitely do the coils last.

    Also, If you fail to plan you plan to fail.
    I had no wiring plan and just winged it. My wiring suffered because of it.

    Just an opinion but boards should be available in R&D configuration with screw on pluggable type connectors.
    I'd pay $50 bucks more per board to get them way..maybe more

    pluggable (resized).jpg

    #376 36 days ago

    another lesson...USE T nuts on EVERYTHING.
    So much easier to bolt stuff down.
    These make it so you can do everything without lifting the playfield and giving it a reach around.

    If there is something under the playfield that gets in the way, get the correct counterbore end mill , go about .065" deep so the Tee nut will sit flush.

    teenut (resized).jpgcounterboreEM (resized).jpg
    #377 36 days ago

    Another design win so far is how I did my orbit.
    I machined a .0625" wide by .06" deep channel/slot into the playfield the exact shape I wanted the orbit.
    Designed some clamps. Production clamps could be extruded from aluminum on the cheap.
    Designed the orbit sheet metal with notches where the clamps will hold down the orbit.
    Put some holes for GI light to bleed through.
    Made an L shaped cut out flap to bolt straight to the side rail.
    I was able bend the sheet metal right in by hand and clamp it down.
    Worked out great I think.
    In a production run every machine orbit would shoot identical this way.
    No tuning.
    Metallica kind of bugged me that some times the Orbit shot would hit some thing and shoot off sideways.
    This Orbit is one piece and seamless

    orbit (resized).pngorbitsheetmetal (resized).pngorbitclamp (resized).pngorbitflat (resized).png
    #378 35 days ago

    I'm under no illusion that this will be a production machine btw.
    I just think this style of orbits guides might be good for some one else.

    Another mistake/regret I think is the magnet opto in front of upper flipper ramp.

    It holds an opto in a very tight space and blocks the ramp from getting destroyed by balls coming at it at wrong angles.
    it has to be attached from a small distance away because there is a magnet directly beneath it.
    This is for a multiball mode where it'll hold one ball and you need to knock it off with another.
    problem is it gets hit a lot because of location, and the ball action slows way down.
    I think on a redesign I'll add rubber to it to keep the game popping.

    magnetOpto (resized).png
    #379 35 days ago

    Awesome write-up of your thoughts and pitfalls. Really enjoy reading your posts and following the progress

    #380 35 days ago

    One last lesson learned and I’ll move on to game rules.

    Take an ohm meter to all the different sized coils in the machine. Especially if you have only one of that cool.
    Write the reading down somewhere or memorize it.

    You see , I enabled the magnet to test how it would work with no logic to release...and hold power set too high.
    Blew a fuse and maybe let some smoke out(definitely let electronic smell out). I’m afraid to re enable and test the magnet because I don’t know if it’s shorted. Taking an ohm meter reading will do me no good because I don’t have a baseline.

    Anyhoo, anyone on the fence about doing a homebrew reading this , I say do it.
    This has been a blast so far.
    I can’t tell you how good it felt to get the flippers going and shoot this machine the first time. This’ll sound lame, but just pressing a rollover down and watching it’s state change on the monitor brings satisfaction.
    Just go into it knowing it’s a lot of time and money.
    Once again if anyone wants any of my solid works files let me know.

    #381 35 days ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    Take an ohm meter to all the different sized coils in the machine. Especially if you have only one of that cool.
    Write the reading down somewhere or memorize it.

    I've taken to just writing the resistance on every spare coil I have in sharpie. Since they're for homebrew, exact replacements aren't really necessary and I have tons from different manufacturers with different part numbers. Now when I test an eject and it's too powerful, I just check the resistance on it, then rummage around in my coils bin for one with a bit higher resistance and stick it in. If one burns up, I just find a similar number

    #382 35 days ago

    Someone wanna help me out with the resistance of the ball magnet from pinball life?

    #383 35 days ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    Someone wanna help me out with the resistance of the ball magnet from pinball life?

    Ball magnet? Do you have a part number?

    Most magnets I've seen are 4-5 ohms. Some are higher for specific applications

    -1
    #384 35 days ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    Someone wanna help me out with the resistance of the ball magnet from pinball life?

    Dunno about Pinball Life, but in general ball magnet resistance is related to how many drinks she's had.

    #386 35 days ago

    I've got a 511-5065-ND which this says it's a straight replacement for and that one reads 4.7 to 4.8 ohms.

    #387 35 days ago

    Sweet... I didn’t fry it.

    Thanks Vireland

    #388 35 days ago

    Hey Nate,

    Awesome writeup about your learning. Would you like to contribute a few sections to the MPF documentation about that? http://docs.missionpinball.org/en/dev/physical_building/layout_considerations.html. Seems like a lot of your posts can go right there. What do you think?

    Jan

    #389 34 days ago

    I’d be happy to. I’ll get on it.

    2 weeks later
    15
    #390 20 days ago

    Been busy with irl.

    Still needs some fine tuning but got the credits working.
    Turn the key w/o a credit and you get the war rig sputtering sound. As you add credits you get the opening lines.
    Turn the key and get a start and rev from the war rig.
    Need to make the ball eject after the rev so it’s more audible, maybe it’ll be ok with glass on.

    Who’s ready for long boring posts about the rules?

    #391 20 days ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    Who’s ready for long boring posts about the rules?

    Bring it on!!

    #392 19 days ago

    Obviously this will need tuning, but this is what we're thinking for rules.

    First of all this is a wasteland full of scavengers. in multiplayer, all physical ball locks can be stolen.
    this includes fuel pod multiball and Nux multiball.

    Left orbit = Buzzards
    Left ramp = Bullet Farm
    Right ramp = Gas Town
    Side ramp = Citadel
    Right orbit = Rock Riders

    there are 5 different multiball modes planned.

    2 ball - fuel pod (ball lock on top of newton ball)
    3 ball - Nux (2 balls locked behind motorized bank target to the left)
    4 ball - Blood Bag (bash magnet)
    5 ball - Citadel (lock 3 in pipes and 2 in scoops)
    6 ball - the wives (collect 5 wives and baby)

    There are 4 main resources
    Aqua Cola (water)
    Guzzoline (gas)
    Mothers Milk
    Bullets

    These are represented with the 4 mini targets in the playfield.
    Yellow=bullets (just above lower left scoop)
    Blue= aqua cola (to the right of left ramp)
    White= mothers milk (left side of right ramp)
    Red=Guzzoline (right side of right ramp)

    hit these once and the square insert in front of them will blink- collect 1 resource of that type
    hit twice and they turn solid color - collect 2 resources of that type and the next ramp or orbit hit will turn it's square the color of that resource.
    once all mini targets are solid they will turn black and the process continues.
    ramps and orbits can be assigned multiple resources. the squares will change color for each resources assigned to them.
    when a ramp or orbit are hit, it collects 1 resource each that has been assigned to it.
    once all ramps contain all resources you unlock an extra ball (Redemption)

    at the end of every ball all resources will be collected as bonus points

    spend resources before end of ball in the following ways

    hit the newton ball to cash out guzzoline.
    cash out enough and it brings the Sandstorm.
    this opens the orbit gates and brings up the appearing post that will guide a ball to the fuel pod ball lock

    collect enough milk to start the wives hurry up mode
    a ramp or orbit arrow will turn white, hit it to collect a wife.
    this will extend hurry up mode time and make another arrow white.
    once all wives and baby are collected, hit behind up flipper shot to start wives multiball

    spend bullets on targets next to upper scoop.
    1st target is lock 2nd target is load.
    after locked and loaded , hurry up combo mode is started.
    All 5 crosshairs are lit. after one is hit only crosshairs that combo off that shot are lit.
    each shot hit buys more time. hit upper scoop before time runs out to double combo points
    3 shots - fang it
    5 shots - thunder up
    7 shots - witness!!
    10 shots witness me!!! extra ball#2

    Spend aquacola at Citadel spinner(side ramp) to pump water to citadel
    pump enough water to turn on locks at pipes.
    lock 3 balls at pipes and 2 at scoops to start citadel multiball
    lose ball before locking all 5 and be greeted with "AHHH..MEDIOCRE"
    watch in disgust as flippers are disabled and locked balls are ejected and know exactly how NUX felt.

    Multipliers
    spell "Fury Road" to advance playfield multiplier.
    Fire 2X
    Blood 3X
    Shiny 4X
    Chrome 5X
    5th time fury road is spelled = extraball #3
    bonus for every time after that

    Awaited-
    hit upper slingshot to fill nitro meter
    5 seconds for every segment(5 total)
    after that 1 second per hit.
    hit newton ball with both right flipper buttons held (yes there are three flipper buttons) to start awaited.
    another 2X multiplier on top of the playfield multiplier
    hit the behind the upper flipper shot during Awaited to become "Awaited in Valhalla" which is 3X for up 15X total

    3 switches in coin door will give slight bonus to players choice
    ramps vs orbits
    pops vs slings
    target vs spinners

    switch with cover is for VS. or co-op....if I ever get to coding co-op
    vs
    In normal play (VS) you have 3 balls. for each ball you choose Max, Nux, or Furiosa.
    you can only choose each 1 time. each will have perks TBD. the order you pick them will effect the game.

    there will be four miniboss fights/ wizard modes.
    Slit, Bullet Farmer, People Eater and Rictus.
    They will be on a carousel and you can choose them in any order.

    to start a miniboss fight you need to light the Mask, the goggles and the mechanical arm.
    the mask is lit by hitting enough ramps and/or orbits
    the goggles are lit by hitting enough pops and slings
    the arm is lit by playing a new multiball

    each character(Max, Nux, and Furiosa) automatically unlocks their light
    This way even shit players(like me) get 1 wizard mode on ball 3 no matter how bad they suck.

    beat all 4 mini bosses and unlock mask, goggles and arm again to fight Immortan Joe

    hit all pops and slings to hear "V8, V8, V8" chant. hit lower scoop to cash out random bonus
    these can get to level 2 and 3 if wait on the scoop.

    other mission type modes are planned... but I think my nephew and I will be plenty busy for awhile.

    Any suggestions are welcome...just don't be offended if don't use them.
    Also we got another nephew on board doing light shows.
    61389091489__A7EBC8A5-8418-429E-B368-E267C6AF9263 (1) (resized).jpeg

    #393 19 days ago

    How many balls are loaded in that trough of yours? I counted 8 physical locks in your ruleset.

    #394 19 days ago

    Damn! I'm no expert, but i think that sounds like a really impressive rule set so far! Sounds like it is well thought out, and pretty diverse. Can't wait to see the progress and some gameplay videos along the way

    #395 18 days ago
    Quoted from LynnInDenver:

    How many balls are loaded in that trough of yours? I counted 8 physical locks in your ruleset.

    8 ball trough.
    Only the wives multiball might need to steal locked balls. Probably from nux mb

    #396 18 days ago
    Quoted from Phantasize:

    Damn! I'm no expert, but i think that sounds like a really impressive rule set so far! Sounds like it is well thought out, and pretty diverse. Can't wait to see the progress and some gameplay videos along the way

    I couldn’t agree more.

    #397 18 days ago

    Very cool

    #398 18 days ago

    I hope some mfgr buys this from you and builds these.

    Great work!

    #399 18 days ago

    Sicknate, Mad Max is a dream theme for me. So much so that I named my boy after the character. No kidding, when my boy was born July 1st, 2004, I named him after Mel Gibson's character in the Road Warrior. Not Maximus or Maximilian. Just Max.

    As you proceed to build this game please consider building two of these games. I'd like the opportunity to purchase your inspired creation. I might be able help supplement some of your costs. I'm a huge fan of the series and I would be grateful to finally get a Mad Max pin which is way long over due.

    I'd put it right next to my 4 other grail movie pinball games Alien, The Big Lebowski, Indiana Jones and The Lord of the Rings.

    Hell ya!

    QSS

    #400 18 days ago
    Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:

    Sicknate, Mad Max is a dream theme for me. So much so that I named my boy after the character. No kidding, when my boy was born July 1st, 2004, I named him after Mel Gibson's character in the Road Warrior. Not Maximus or Maximilian. Just Max.
    As you proceed to build this game please consider building two of these games. I'd like the opportunity to purchase your inspired creation. I might be able help supplement some of your costs. I'm a huge fan of the series and I would be grateful to finally get a Mad Max pin which is way long over due.
    I'd put it right next to my 4 other grail movie pinball games Alien, The Big Lebowski, Indiana Jones and The Lord of the Rings.
    Hell ya!
    QSS

    QuickSilverShelby,
    This is the highest compliment you could give, but I can't go selling a theme I don't have rights to.

    When done with this project I'd be happy to give you all the solid models and assets.
    Had I used only off the shelf parts it would be easy(relatively speaking) to make a pin from that. Unfortunately there has got to be about $1000 or more in custom machined parts. If taken to a machine shop I'd bet more along 2k plus

    If you really want one I can help you make it happen....but you'll have to build it, print the art etc.
    I don't want to do any copyright infringement.

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