Quoted from Lhyrgoif:What happens if you have two balls in place like the picture and then a third falls down ontop of the first, looks like it wont be detected at all.
That's pretty much how scoops on commercial machines work, for better or worse
It supposed to fire/shoot the ball out of the scoop anytime there are 2 balls (or more) unless it’s holding them for a video or mode selection.
This scoop is meant to hold 1 extra ball for speed while waiting for A subway ball
Need some LEDs for this? I take PayPal!
(Just for fun, everyone. Another forum asks for the worst rainbow puke LEDs ever seen on machines.)
Quoted from SickNate:Got tired of waiting for machine time. Got these bad boys at auction. Just arrived today[quoted image]
Looks like you picked up some serious equipment there! Did you already have dedicated space set up for them?
Quoted from SickNate:Got tired of waiting for machine time. Got these bad boys at auction. Just arrived today[quoted image]
Your Pinside handle just fell into place for me. Well done.
Quoted from SickNate:Artwork is starting to come together[quoted image][quoted image]
Cabinet art needs to read more action-y. Also, the mustard-y font and trim reads like caution tape to me. Red reads more exciting to me.
mad-max-cab-red (resized).jpgQuoted from SickNate:Pinmonk,
Is that the Christmas edition?
Heh, if you want it to be.
After opening my big mouth, I realized there's not a lot of action-y art widely available on the internet for fury road that's finished. Lots of very rough concept art, though. Given what I found on google to work with, I do like the one I mocked up on the left side better than the one on the right...
mad-max-cab-sand (resized).jpgQuoted from SickNate:Artwork is starting to come together[quoted image][quoted image]
Thumbs up on the cab art. Like seeing the war rig and interceptor front and center. Vireland's attempt is pretty good, too. If anything, I would say tone down the skull steering well on the pf. That or brighten up the background.
Quoted from SickNate:scoop assembled
Yeah I know, some of the screws are too long. I used what I had lying around. Will swap out later.[quoted image][quoted image]
We forgive you.
I have been hesitant to make the playfield because I wasn't sure if my pop bumper design would work or not.
Well today I tested it and it works !!!!!
The design is 2" diameter pop bumpers instead of the normal 3". That way I can fit more in the same space.
When researching pop bumpers I thought they were over complicated with adjusting the spoon and all....
So I thought I'd take a stab at something that has been working perfectly for 50 years.
The ball is the switch. That is to say the ball closes the circuit that tells the machine when to activate the coil to bring the ring down.
The body of the pop bumper is polycarbonate .
From under the playfield I will light it with an RGB LED and hopefully the whole thing will glow whatever the LED is programmed.
Attached are some pics.
I cannot wait to cut the playfield now.
IMG_1166 (resized).jpgIMG_1167 (resized).jpgPopCircuit (resized).jpgGreat meg design.
Really like your build.
Its very heavy the playfield.
So i think you need metal u shape guide rail at the outside off the playfield instead of wood.
Pinballwil,
Most of what I've made is aluminum.
Steel is 2.5 X heavier than aluminum.
The mechs really aren't that heavy.
I suspect the playfield will be only slightly heavier than average.
But that is because of # of mechs not weight of them.
If it does warp... I will use some metal rails to pull it straight.
Quoted from SickNate:I have been hesitant to make the playfield because I wasn't sure if my pop bumper design would work or not.
Well today I tested it and it works !!!!!
The design is 2" diameter pop bumpers instead of the normal 3". That way I can fit more in the same space.
When researching pop bumpers I thought they were over complicated with adjusting the spoon and all....
So I thought I'd take a stab at something that has been working perfectly for 50 years.
The ball is the switch. That is to say the ball closes the circuit that tells the machine when to activate the coil to bring the ring down.
The body of the pop bumper is polycarbonate .
From under the playfield I will light it with an RGB LED and hopefully the whole thing will glow whatever the LED is programmed.
Attached are some pics.
I cannot wait to cut the playfield now.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Great idea. Using the ball and pop body to act as the spoon trigger and leaf spring. No more adjusting too!
That shot map and ramps look great!!! Just my 2cents. I think the right ramp wire form should merge with the center wire form to feed the right flipper instead of just dropping back onto the play field
Pinstein,
The right ramp is meant to feed the upper flipper. (position/length may need tuning)
There are ball gates below the mid ramp and right ramp. So complete orbit shots will only be available in certain modes.
So combos will be 1,2,3,1,2,3...... as long as you can keep them going. With orbits and behind the right flipper shots mixed in.
At 3 “fang it” will light up
At 5 “thunder up”
At 7 “witness”
(Will need tuning)
At any point you can cash out the combo by hitting a scoop
At that point a Different video will play depending on the Level of the combo
At 10 or 15 or so (it’ll need dialing in)
It’ll show Nux mouthing “witness me” and crashing into/blocking the canyon
When you get the combo record for the machine truck horn will sound
There are going to be four Nixie tubes in the apron. 2 will be a hurry up timer and the other 2 will count the combo
There will be other uses for the nixies in other modes too.
Love this theme. Love the re-engineering of a lot of the mechanisms. I realize aluminum is much easier to work with than steel. How do you think that aluminum will hold up against the pinball itself? Are there a lot of areas where the ball will be taking shots?
Quoted from GreenMachine19:Love this theme. Love the re-engineering of a lot of the mechanisms. I realize aluminum is much easier to work with than steel. How do you think that aluminum will hold up against the pinball itself? Are there a lot of areas where the ball will be taking shots?
Interesting point, aluminum is softer than steel. Since parts are at least twice as thick that should more than compensate. That made me think why not machine some pinballs themselves out of aluminum? Of course they wouldn't last as long as steel but with the reduced weight they would fly! They would probably be right between a ceramic powerball and a conventional steel pinball as far as speed goes. It would be a worthy experiment.
Cudos to SickNate for this amazing project! I wouldn't be surprised to see your new style pop bumper adopted commercially. Brilliant design.
Quoted from Pinballmike217:Interesting point, aluminum is softer than steel. Since parts are at least twice as thick that should more than compensate. That made me think why not machine some pinballs themselves out of aluminum? Of course they wouldn't last as long as steel but with the reduced weight they would fly! They would probably be right between a ceramic powerball and a conventional steel pinball as far as speed goes. It would be a worthy experiment.
Cudos to SickNate for this amazing project! I wouldn't be surprised to see your new style pop bumper adopted commercially. Brilliant design.
Aluminium ball with steal shell maybe?
Quoted from Pinballmike217:Interesting point, aluminum is softer than steel. Since parts are at least twice as thick that should more than compensate.
Agreed. Also, this will be a home use machine, not commercial and therefore the aluminum will hold up just fine.
Quoted from Pinballmike217:Cudos to SickNate for this amazing project! I wouldn't be surprised to see your new style pop bumper adopted commercially. Brilliant design.
Agreed again and I would love to see and play this game when completed. Design and construction on this machine is incredible and Road Warriors has been my dream theme since I first got into pinball.
I think an aluminum ball would feel all wrong, dent/distort easily, and magnets wouldn’t work. This game has magnet so let’s lay that to rest.
The pop bumper upper and lower rings are actually 304 stainless steel.
As far as aluminum mechs go, they don’t need to stay perfectly round, and are an order of magnitude stronger than wood.
I think a steel ball will ding and dent aluminum mechs, but if wood rails can hold up .... I’ll take my chances
I’m pretty sure the square newton ball thing on Metallica premium behind the hammer is aluminum . It definitely gets banged up but works fine.
You could always use the ceramic powerball. Its lighter and strong but won't dent the aluminum like the steel balls.
Quoted from SickNate:I think an aluminum ball would feel all wrong, dent/distort easily, and magnets wouldn’t work. This game has magnet so let’s lay that to rest.
The pop bumper upper and lower rings are actually 304 stainless steel.
As far as aluminum mechs go, they don’t need to stay perfectly round, and are an order of magnitude stronger than wood.
I think a steel ball will ding and dent aluminum mechs, but if wood rails can hold up .... I’ll take my chances
I’m pretty sure the square newton ball thing on Metallica premium behind the hammer is aluminum . It definitely gets banged up but works fine.
Quoted from luvthatapex2:You could always use the ceramic powerball.
Except that would render the new bumpers non-functional, which depend on the conductive ball to bridge the connection between skirt and ring.
(Correct me if I misunderstood?)
Gornkleschintzer,
Yes the pops wouldn’t work and the magnet wouldn’t work with a ceramic ball.
Concerned Pinsiders,
I promise to remake the mechs with steel if they fall apart.
A lot of homebrews are R&Ded with cardboard and poster board.
I think aluminum is a step up.
Quoted from SickNate:Gornkleschintzer,
Yes the pops wouldn’t work and the magnet wouldn’t work with a ceramic ball.
Concerned Pinsiders,
I promise to remake the mechs with steel if they fall apart.
A lot of homebrews are R&Ded with cardboard and poster board.
I think aluminum is a step up.
Very true- a big step up!! The milling is impressive, wish I had those skills
Got the ramps back from welding awhile ago. I went with 20 gauge and if I could do it over would do 18 or 16.
I’ll just consider these R&D and if the geometry is good , redo them then.
Everything is a lot bigger IRL than what I think it will be drawn up in CAD.
I’m kinda on the fence if I should polish all the metal parts shiny and chrome , or leave them more rugged and apocalypse
153B1D93-62FF-4D9A-B531-B1581DBFEAF1 (resized).jpegQuoted from SickNate:Got the ramps back from welding awhile ago. I went with 20 gauge and if I could do it over would do 18 or 16.
I’ll just consider these R&D and if the geometry is good , redo them then.
Everything is a lot bigger IRL than what I think it will be drawn up in CAD.
I’m kinda on the fence if I should polish all the metal parts shiny and chrome , or leave them more rugged and apocalypse[quoted image]
Shiny and chrome. It's a car fetish series.
Quoted from SickNate:Got the ramps back from welding awhile ago. I went with 20 gauge and if I could do it over would do 18 or 16.
I’m kinda on the fence if I should polish all the metal parts shiny and chrome , or leave them more rugged and apocalypse[quoted image]
Tough call, rugged and worn is the Mad Max aesthetic, but then again the Boyz like to chrome themselves up before they make the big sacrifice. So tough decision.
What happens when a fine layer of black pinball dust coats the popbumper switch / body and prevents a conductive path between the switch, ball, and housing?
I applaud your desire to do something different; just be prepared for issues down the road.
Quoted from Zitt:What happens when a fine layer of black pinball dust coats the popbumper switch / body and prevents a conductive path between the switch, ball, and housing?
Maybe clean it?
Zitt,
Time will tell. This is the mech I’m most worried about . I did all I could Think of design wise .
I made the upper ring with a parabolic shape to hopefully get better contact.
If they work poor, I might try having them silver plated.
I hope it just works.
If it works good I have some design Ideas for rollovers w/o switches.
Just strips of metal in pockets on the playfield.
Quoted from SickNate:I have been hesitant to make the playfield because I wasn't sure if my pop bumper design would work or not.
Well today I tested it and it works !!!!!
The design is 2" diameter pop bumpers instead of the normal 3". That way I can fit more in the same space.
When researching pop bumpers I thought they were over complicated with adjusting the spoon and all....
So I thought I'd take a stab at something that has been working perfectly for 50 years.
The ball is the switch. That is to say the ball closes the circuit that tells the machine when to activate the coil to bring the ring down.
The body of the pop bumper is polycarbonate .
From under the playfield I will light it with an RGB LED and hopefully the whole thing will glow whatever the LED is programmed.
Attached are some pics.
I cannot wait to cut the playfield now.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
What voltages will you be using across the pop?
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