.250 thick polycarbonate sheet.
Used double sided tape for hold.
I machine all the inserts to a depth of .235 inch then do a final pass at full depth. Otherwise I think the endmill would fling them
.250 thick polycarbonate sheet.
Used double sided tape for hold.
I machine all the inserts to a depth of .235 inch then do a final pass at full depth. Otherwise I think the endmill would fling them
Like they say, pinball machines are hard to make. Hope you don't give up and manage to get this done.
Finally got playfield version 2.0 made. Sent the CNC router guy files 3 months ago and just picked em up. Had 2 made so I cen get the machine going while waiting on art. When art is done I’ll swap em out. Artist has promised me August 1st he’ll be done. If everything goes good I’ll bring it to Chicago pinball expo this year
Quoted from SickNate:Finally got playfield version 2.0 made. Sent the CNC router guy files 3 months ago and just picked em up. Had 2 made so I cen get the machine going while waiting on art. When art is done I’ll swap em out. Artist has promised me August 1st he’ll be done. If everything goes good I’ll bring it to Chicago pinball expo this year
[quoted image]
Is the art just iterating on what you already had for the PF, or a new direction?
Nate,
What motivated you to cnc your own inserts? Because you can? Or did you find an issue with the available stock out there? I'm asking because I am probably going to cnc a playfield in the near future and want to get it right the first time.
And... curious about the planned playfield art process. Clear-coated Re-printable overlay?
Honestly, the more of the stuff you can buy …probably the better.
There is so much work to an entire pinball machine, I think it’s better to save your energy and focus to stuff you have to do…
No reason to do a bunch of unnecessary work.
The artist chose a bunch of sizes and shapes that do not exist. That’s why I made some. I still bought all the inserts that come off the shelf.
I’m still trying to figure out if I’m gonna do direct print or overlay
Direct print seems to be significantly spendier but if you don’t mind that - everyone I’ve heard had it done was super happy with it vs mixed results with overlays. I’d def go with direct and an auto clear on top if possible
All the work that goes into a home brew to me more than justifies the price of getting your final playfield direct printed.
Quoted from SickNate:I'm in the middle of designing and building a CNC router ...I've thought about posting stuff from that project here, but don't want to hear a bunch armchair quarterback suggestions.[quoted image]
If I have my own cnc router and want to make a suggestion, does that make me an armchair quarterback?
Seriously, I just have one thing to point out that you've undoubtedly already considered, but, as we know ... unlike the material you usually mill, wood shrinks, grows and warps. Even the highest quality plywood used for playfields will warp a little bit. So, two important factors are
1. A perfectly flat work surface (obvious) and
2. A way to get the entire piece of playfield (corners, edges and middle) to lie perfectly flat (not always easy)
If you don't, you'll find that some inserts fit perfectly and some don't due to the slightly difference in depths.
Both are fairly easy to accomplish if you plan ahead. I jumped in and learned my lesson after the fact. So, my suggestion is, after you have your plywood sheet mounted and before you click RUN, attach a plunge thickness indicator to the spindle and have it run through a grid pattern to measure the surface height across the entire sheet of plywood. That way you can address any imperfections before you start cutting. If you create a g-code file that pauses at each point on your grid (just long enough to read the depth gauge) it will go fairly quick.
OK, that's all.
Happy to see this is still moving forward. Such an incredible amount of work and talent as well. I might have said this earlier and too lazy to look but for the love of God, send the final PF off to Kruzman and have him clear it. This project is quite honestly just too damn nice to half ass it!
FantasticPinball Can get you setup with a direct UV playfield. He did mine on League and am super happy with it. I had a vinyl sticker before and the direct is night and day!
Quoted from Octomodz:FantasticPinball Can get you setup with a direct UV playfield. He did mine on League and am super happy with it. I had a vinyl sticker before and the direct is night and day!
How so? Can you get a little more detailed about the night and day? What was the cost difference?
Quoted from SickNate:Artwork is getting darn close
The more I look at this, the more I cannot help but feel like what would be the absolute most killer look would be to have someone airbrush this onto the PF and then clear coated. Probably not a very realistic idea - but I think that would be over the top awesome.
I normally haven't cared much for the artwork the homebrew community has come up with, but this is super, super nicely done. When you're done, you're going to absolutely mop the floor with the other competitors.
PS, every time I see the title of this thread (Witness!) I freaking laugh. It's like a command being given from God almighty himself lol
Ok, got the final art. At full resolution it looks sooo much better. I could not be happier.
I think my plastics will be metal. Shiny and chrome. The art was so much more work than my friend thought it would be. I’m embarrassed to ask him to do any more.
Quoted from SickNate:Ok, got the final art. At full resolution it looks sooo much better. I could not be happier.
I think my plastics will be metal. Shiny and chrome. The art was so much more work than my friend thought it would be. I’m embarrassed to ask him to do any more.
Metal will severely limit light dispersion. Ask your friend. If they're sick of it, they'll tell you. And plastics will be a smaller, faster job, at least.
Quoted from PinMonk:Metal will severely limit light dispersion. Ask your friend. If they're sick of it, they'll tell you. And plastics will be a smaller, faster job, at least.
Yeah. Sling plastics are front and center and important but you could phone in the rest.
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:Yeah. Sling plastics are front and center and important but you could phone in the rest.
Yeah, tire tracks, smoke bellows, flames, etc on orbit plastics, etc. None of it on the same level as what's on display on the PF.
Finished making my scoops version 3.0
(Well except for the actual scoop/curved part of it, will get that done tomorrow)
Each scoop can lock 4 balls.
They will mostly be fed by subways. But if balls are locked and the scoop is hit I have a plunger/coil to shove the locked balls back… to let the jammed ball fall.
Also the balls are the switch except in the jam position.
Interesting and simple solution to a complex problem. The scoop I used from PBL has a ring that the ball rests in to allow it to settle in a stable position before the eject coil send it back up. Do yo have something similar so the top entering ball does not ricochet away from the eject firing position before being fired?
Quoted from SickNate:Finished making my scoops version 3.0
(Well except for the actual scoop/curved part of it, will get that done tomorrow)
Each scoop can lock 4 balls.
They will mostly be fed by subways. But if balls are locked and the scoop is hit I have a plunger/coil to shove the locked balls back… to let the jammed ball fall.
Also the balls are the switch except in the jam position.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I'm disappointed. I expected you to have magnetic launchers to really get those balls moving. Just borrow some parts off a NASCAR pin and you're set, no designing necessary.
Just gravity. The size of the scoop is barely larger than the ball. The ball will roll to a wall in the scoop. Then it’s straight up and out.
My last scoops were similar but could only lock 1 extra ball. The ball was held below the scoop in Y axis. Then any ball that falls in would be in position for ejection. If I wanted the locked ball out a coil would fire to bring that to position.
On this scoop the balls are on rails that are above the ejector.
One of the rails is ground.
The others rail alternates between plastic and metal for switches. I hope that makes sense
Quoted from PinMonk:I'm disappointed. I expected you to have magnetic launchers to really get those balls moving. Just borrow some parts off a NASCAR pin and you're set, no designing necessary.
There were some serious clearance issues, had to design these to fit.
Trust me… these scoops are gonna fly. Both are pointed right at the inlanes(outside lanes technically) and will go straight to the flippers at speed.
No just 1 way.
I need the scoops (2 of them in this game) to go perfectly straight into the inlanes.
Hence the shape of the scoop.
Made it out of polycarbonate…so maybe I’ll hit them with an rgb led… maybe I’ll re do out of metal
Quoted from SickNate:No just 1 way.
I need the scoops (2 of them in this game) to go perfectly straight into the inlanes.
Hence the shape of the scoop.
Made it out of polycarbonate…so maybe I’ll hit them with an rgb led… maybe I’ll re do out of metal
10-4, I missed your explanation above on the coil to knock a jammed ball down. Looks great. I would use the poly if it holds up and add an led to make the scoop flash when its going to shoot the ball out.
Quoted from Octomodz:10-4, I missed your explanation above on the coil to knock a jammed ball down. Looks great. I would use the poly if it holds up and add an led to make the scoop flash when its going to shoot the ball out.
Stick one of those car door mini-projectors opposite it just below the PF and project flames on it when it's going to eject.
Quoted from Cmartin1235:Nice work. I bet it lights beautifully. How did you machine the inner curvature of the scoop?
1/2” ball end mill 3D surface “lace” path.
I have a Cnc mill in my garage.
I'd go to Expo just to see this in person. Thanks for sharing all this with us. What an amazing project!
Honestly don’t think I can make expo this year. I keep getting sent out of town for work so I haven’t had the necessary time to finish by then.
Plus from SoCal it’s a 28 hour drive, I don’t want to go unless it’s complete.
Quoted from SickNate:Honestly don’t think I can make expo this year. I keep getting sent out of town for work so I haven’t had the necessary time to finish by then.
Plus from SoCal it’s a 28 hour drive, I don’t want to go unless it’s complete.
I totally agree with your stance. It's cool people take their "whitewood" stuff but to show up with complete working hardware, finished software and complete artwork might be a first? lol
Besides, that gives you plenty of time to get that *cough* clear coated *cough*
Are you planning on adding a shaker? I think that would be such a nice edition especially considering the theme being used.
Quoted from SickNate:Art work is really close to done.
I’m very happy with it.
The wait has been worth it.[quoted image]
Looking at the Ride Eternal insert, it might be nice to make the insert a bit bigger and do something like Indy's ETERNAL LIFE insert where the text is screened over the insert, lighting up the words.
Or, alternately, put a Valhalla symbol on the insert, since that's what they're always talking about in the movie.
Quoted from PinMonk:Looking at the Ride Eternal insert, it might be nice to make the insert a bit bigger and do something like Indy's ETERNAL LIFE insert where the text is screened over the insert, lighting up the words.
[quoted image]
Or, alternately, put a Valhalla symbol on the insert, since that's what they're always talking about in the movie.
[quoted image]
We’re actually using the Valhalla symbol.
Im doing an apron 2.0 that is supposed to be like a car dashboard.
With a bunch of warning lights for unlocks/upgrades/bonuses/modes/hidden combos.
There will be a tach for seconds left in shots for combos
And a meter for water level for citadel multiball
After reviewing proofs and resending files 4 times I ordered some clear vinyl …. They still screwed it up. The parts that are supposed to be transparent are white.
I’ve also contacted every local flatbed UV printer and can’t seem to get a quote.
Nothing is easy
Quoted from SickNate:After reviewing proofs and resending files 4 times I ordered some clear vinyl …. They still screwed it up. The parts that are supposed to be transparent are white.
I’ve also contacted every local flatbed UV printer and can’t seem to get a quote.
Nothing is easy
[quoted image]
It's always hardest right before the finish. Looking great.
On your Apron "dashboard" you might want to experiment with attaching the needle for the speedometer to a spring tube attached to the servo rather than directly to the servo arm. It should give you a bit of analog bounce that way so it looks like a speedometer would on a 1960s/1970s era car instead of too-crisp motion of a direct servo attachment.
I was looking at the Apron, and boy I cannot help but think it would be easier/cooler to use an LCD screen and have that part software driven. A person could get super fancy and use a touch screen and get as complicated as you please.
It also allows you to customize the layout at any time if things don't feel quite right.
I have ordered a laser cut apron and designed and ordered 6 different pcbs . I’m gonna try it that way… If it sucks I’ll go with a screen. I did consider that… then remembered how I much I’m struggling with gui with just 1 screen
Quoted from SickNate:I have ordered a laser cut apron and designed and ordered 6 different pcbs . I’m gonna try it that way… If it sucks I’ll go with a screen. I did consider that… then remembered how I much I’m struggling with gui with just 1 screen
Personally, being an old hot rodder, I like the Guage approach you're going for. Screens are all over, but analog type stuff is still Hella cool. I hope you pull that off rather than just another pin with a screen on an apron.
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