(Topic ID: 252842)

Witness!!! Mad Max Fury Road Homebrew

By SickNate

4 years ago


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  • 779 posts
  • 153 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 38 days ago by SickNate
  • Topic is favorited by 205 Pinsiders

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    There are 779 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 16.
    #451 3 years ago

    Just keep up the hard work, take your time when you need a break, and you can do it!

    You've accomplished A LOT within a year. Keep in mind the size of the creative team and support staff at Stern, and what you and your family have accomplished.

    It seems like most homebrew projects tend to fizzle out during the coding phase. Or someone does an amazing job with a layout and has some good code ideas, then phones in the artwork. It's for you so take your time and make it the way you like.

    Besides, hasn't it really been about all the fun you've had with your nephew? Having a pinball machine is just a bonus at that point.

    #452 3 years ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    Oh, I’m long past the point of no return .
    I’d like to believe I’m past 30%....wether it’s true or not.

    You are. don't listen to Vireland. You've done all the physical building and wiring from scratch, which is HUGE for a build. Yes, the art and rules are a lot of work. I'd say half. You've already started this, so you're beyond half way. Contract out the art and work on the code. You're almost there.

    #453 3 years ago

    It's your project, you're whatever % done you want to be. However this ends up, it's your vision. Polish it or just get it flippin'. I've enjoyed what you've shared. Thanks.

    #454 3 years ago

    You got a physically working machine with actual modes programmed. I guess you got the hard things figured out. If you don't like full display art stuff just go with DMD style. Either a real DMD (Smartmatrix or FAST DMD) or just LCD with dotfilter similar to NBX. DMD is much less work than HD graphics. I personally would not recommend HD graphics unless you like to work with that kind of stuff. Playfield art is much simpler than you would expect. Try something like Inkscape. Draw separating lines, add colored areas and put a few graphics on top. Then keep iterating until you like it.

    Jan

    #455 3 years ago

    You know after you finish the code and graphics you need to put a shiny chrome exhaust pipe on either side of the head.

    #456 3 years ago

    I finally opened this thread. Wow! Nice work man!

    #457 3 years ago

    Thanks for all the encouragement pinsiders....

    Vireland's a good dude and has helped this project out a ton.

    I'll leave it to him to say how if he wants....

    I know if people find out.... every homebrewer will be knocking down his door.

    Coding isn't that bad now that I'm getting the hang of MPF.
    I can't thank enough all the people who've put hundreds of hours into it.
    Very powerful tool that is helping non programmer peeps like me build a pin.

    Watching people playtest this thing really helps.

    So please, more Socal people help me out by playing this thing. (send pm here at pinside)

    #458 3 years ago
    Quoted from robotron911:

    It's your project, you're whatever % done you want to be. However this ends up, it's your vision. Polish it or just get it flippin'. I've enjoyed what you've shared. Thanks.

    True that. It's whatever you want it to be. Extremely impressive what you have done so far.

    #459 3 years ago

    This project is awesome. What style of art you are thinking for the playfield (hand drawn or Photoshop stuff or something else)? I'm wondering how best you get it onto the playfield? A big vinyl decal like on cabinets, perhaps with something like mylar over it?. What about art for the cabinet? Maybe something in the style of that awesome backglass picture from earlier in the thread. Hmm.
    Some of the first Mad Max was filmed out the back of Werribee where I live and the roads are still there!

    #460 3 years ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    Oh, I’m long past the point of no return .
    I’d like to believe I’m past 30%....wether it’s true or not.

    This game is way past 30%... easily 80% done. Nate mentioned he wasn't a pin guy, but wanted to build a pin like he enjoyed in his bar. WOW such ambition for a not pin-head to devote the time, energy and money to get a game this far is amazing. The game is wired and all electrical integration and troubleshooting is done, color changing LED's everywhere, Software has a great foundation to build upon, Shoots amazingly well and has some great unique features. The hard part is done, now just need to think about and implement the rules, and get some art down. The project is in the play and tweak portion.

    The PF felt awesome. Smooth shots with all the shots were makeable, and the ramps backhand able. The implementation of all the shots regarding the rules felt great and purposeful. The start of multiball is great, when the locked balls in the water pipes come out tied into the video of the water blasting out... awesome. The depth of the rules were deep, but they followed the goals of the movie and worked. The new style pops were awesome for version 1. V2 should be even better. Seriously the game felt and shot like a loaded old W/B and not a first white wood design.

    It still trips me out seeing a home brew pin and the progress that has been made by a non pin-guy and his Nephew on code. Compared to some newish pin company after years of trip ups and a presumed shit-ton of money.

    Great job Nate.

    #461 3 years ago

    +1

    Quoted from pinballdork:

    ramps backhand able

    Backhandability is a big one for me, and you have it... Keep going champs!

    #462 3 years ago

    Those are some mad skills Nate.

    I think if you farmed out the graphics entirely, you'd regret it. That said, if you did them all yourself, you'd probably regret that too. Let's face it, there are engineers and there are artists but not many people can pull off both. The concept is all yours and your nephew's to this point. The playfield art needs some of your soul as well. My 2 cents.

    I second jabdoa's recommendation. Download Inkscape. Last time I checked, it was free. You know your way around CAD so it should be easy to pick up the basics. You might even be able to import your playfield layout directly. Import an image or two and play around with it. Lots of tutorials online. When you can't take it anymore, find a graphic artist who's a friend of a friend and have them refine your work.

    Cheers

    #463 3 years ago

    Nate, I see you’ve got your own section in the latest MPF documentation. Nice. It’s a good addition.

    47
    #464 3 years ago

    Getting closer.

    All multiballs and mission modes done.

    Just need 4 mini boss and 2 final boss mode.

    Then tuning and playfield art and GUI art.

    873904AB-80AB-43BF-BB45-76A88C63D0B0 (resized).jpeg873904AB-80AB-43BF-BB45-76A88C63D0B0 (resized).jpeg
    #465 3 years ago

    You've been busy. Looks great.

    #466 3 years ago

    bloody freakin awesome!

    Look forward to more video someday. Thanks very much for sharing.

    #467 3 years ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    Oh, I’m long past the point of no return .
    I’d like to believe I’m past 30%....wether it’s true or not.

    You’re 100% done. With what you’ve just finished.

    #468 3 years ago

    Can you share your thoughts on the cabinet and backglass graphics? What kind of media were they printed on? Did you have them printed locally or from an Internet business? How did the application go?

    #469 3 years ago

    Looking amazing man! Keep up the stellar work.

    #470 3 years ago

    Amazing work. Shoot me a PM if you’d like some help on the playfield art.

    #471 3 years ago
    Quoted from stoli1:

    Can you share your thoughts on the cabinet and backglass graphics? What kind of media were they printed on? Did you have them printed locally or from an Internet business? How did the application go?

    I did the cabinet and translite with https://www.gameongrafix.com/

    for the translite I chose "backlit film with adhesive" and got 1/8" thick tempered glass,

    for the cabinet art I got everything about 1" oversized in all directions.
    stuck it on, and then razorbladed the excess.
    This worked out good for me. Took some of the pressure off of getting it perfect.

    I'm happy with gameongrafix and would use them again.

    #472 3 years ago

    Thanks. I'm pretty sure that is the same outfit that I used over 10 years ago when I built a MAME cabinet. They used to be called MAME Marquees. Back then, they mainly did control panels, cabinet marquees and some side art. Glad to know they have expanded into pinballs and are still a quality company. I remember being very happy with their work.

    Did they mention if they did playfields? I couldn't find anything on their site.

    #473 3 years ago

    I have a few random questions for you Nate.

    1. Ramps - How do you get from the curved surfaces in your CAD assembly to a 2d file used to cut the sheet metal? Does Solidworks have some sort of flattening tool?

    2. How did the fitment of those ramps turn out? Did they blend right into the cutouts on the playfield and back board or were there some “adjustments”?

    3. To clarify what you mentioned in an earlier post, you would go with a thicker gauge sheet metal for a future build. Why is that?

    4. Nixies - I understand how they work by themselves (an Arduino sketch on the micro processor controls the exixe driver boards that the Nixie tubes are mounted on), but how are you interfacing that assembly with MPF?

    Thanks

    #474 3 years ago
    Quoted from stoli1:

    I have a few random questions for you Nate.
    1. Ramps - How do you get from the curved surfaces in your CAD assembly to a 2d file used to cut the sheet metal? Does Solidworks have some sort of flattening tool?
    2. How did the fitment of those ramps turn out? Did they blend right into the cutouts on the playfield and back board or were there some “adjustments”?
    3. To clarify what you mentioned in an earlier post, you would go with a thicker gauge sheet metal for a future build. Why is that?
    4. Nixies - I understand how they work by themselves (an Arduino sketch on the micro processor controls the exixe driver boards that the Nixie tubes are mounted on), but how are you interfacing that assembly with MPF?
    Thanks

    1. In Solidworks you can "convert to sheetmetal" and then "flatten".
    I'm sure Fusion360 has similar functions.
    There are a few tricks to get this just right with ramps. Another pinsider asked me how to do it and I wrote a quick tutorial on it.
    If other people want a Solidworks tutorial on this hit me up.

    2. Fitment of the ramps worked out great w/o adjustments.

    3. I used 20 gauge sheet (.0375") for the ramps. I've played hundreds of games (if not in the thousands) on the machine and it shows no wear.
    The guy that welded it said this gauge was a nightmare and he would've preferred 18 gauge. I'm sure with a good laser welder it would be easy, but other types of welding he told me it's hard not to burn through.

    One thing I would change is the way I drew up the ramps. Where the ball enters the ramp it parallel to the playfield.
    I thought I could just file in a bevel/chamfer and the ball would go up just fine. with a very good chamfer filed in the ball still wants to jump when starting the ramp. I cant use shim stock because it wont sit flush. So in the future I would have 5 degree minimum entry angle for ramp.

    4. Nixie tubes will run off of custom python code through MPF.
    I'll have a timer in mpf call custom code maybe every quarter second or so to control to the nixies.
    I wrote python code to do timers and what not through USB to the nixies to test and it worked fine.
    Haven't actually used them through MPF yet.
    Waiting for game code to be done.
    There are tons of game timers I want to use, but need to write out priorities and such, If I do that now, I'll have to redo a lot.

    #475 3 years ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    One thing I would change is the way I drew up the ramps. Where the ball enters the ramp it parallel to the playfield.
    I thought I could just file in a bevel/chamfer and the ball would go up just fine. with a very good chamfer filed in the ball still wants to jump when starting the ramp. I cant use shim stock because it wont sit flush. So in the future I would have 5 degree minimum entry angle for ramp.

    On that subject... why don't you have ramp flaps?

    #476 3 years ago

    For the love of God don't get discouraged and definitely don't give up! This is such a well done project thus far. I never did a homebrew because I KNEW I'd get frustrated and quit. I also knew coding can make a break a game. Here's my advice "for whatever it's worth". If you are satisfied with how everything plays and you'd label it gold standard then get the playfield artwork done. Get the playfield artwork applied and get it over to Ron Kruzman as that will take about 3 months. Mean while you can work on your coding via virtual pinball and either work on learning graphical work or sub it out. Seriously that's such a cool pin don't give up. In fact you could sell plans to other members and offer the code and artwork for "free". Several ways to get around the whole IP issue.

    #477 3 years ago
    Quoted from CLEllison:

    For the love of God don't get discouraged and definitely don't give up! This is such a well done project thus far. I never did a homebrew because I KNEW I'd get frustrated and quit. I also knew coding can make a break a game. Here's my advice "for whatever it's worth". If you are satisfied with how everything plays and you'd label it gold standard then get the playfield artwork done. Get the playfield artwork applied and get it over to Ron Kruzman as that will take about 3 months. Mean while you can work on your coding via virtual pinball and either work on learning graphical work or sub it out. Seriously that's such a cool pin don't give up. In fact you could sell plans to other members and offer the code and artwork for "free". Several ways to get around the whole IP issue.

    We are definitely not getting discouraged.
    The more code we add the more fun it is.

    We're making steady progress, The nephew was down last weekend and we added a few modes and did a ton of tuning.

    The game is brutally hard right now but before we go making things easier we need to try it with the extra balls added

    There will be 3 total extra balls to earn
    Ride Eternal
    Redemption
    ILIDILA (I Live I Die I Live Again)

    #478 3 years ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    4. Nixie tubes will run off of custom python code through MPF.
    I'll have a timer in mpf call custom code maybe every quarter second or so to control to the nixies.

    You make that sound pretty easy. I foresee one of those Tom Hanks in Castaway moments when he finally made fire.... “I... have made the nixies work through MPF” ... dancing ...

    Hopefully, when (if) I ever get to that point, an Arduino will just be another control system in MPF and I’ll just need to enter a few lines in a config file.

    #479 3 years ago
    Quoted from stoli1:

    You make that sound pretty easy. I foresee one of those Tom Hanks in Castaway moments when he finally made fire.... “I... have made the nixies work through MPF” ... dancing ...
    Hopefully, when (if) I ever get to that point, an Arduino will just be another control system in MPF and I’ll just need to enter a few lines in a config file.

    If you define a standard interface that would certainly work. Then APC is a platform running on an Arduino which implements the LISY protocol. There you go Arduino working with MPF out of the box .

    More seriously: We could design a serial interfaces for stuff like that. On the other hand it ain't too hard to hook some python code into MPF via a plugin, scriptlet or mode custom code. Those nixies could become a segment display platform. That way MPF would know what to do with them. Probably depends on what you want to do. As usual everything is about tradeoffs.

    #480 3 years ago
    Quoted from jabdoa:

    If you define a standard interface that would certainly work. Then APC is a platform running on an Arduino which implements the LISY protocol. There you go Arduino working with MPF out of the box .

    Yeah. I found that APC section in the docs and got excited. Then after reading a bit, I realized that probably wasn’t the solution I was looking for.

    Also found your little custom mode code snippet on the MPF forum. I’m thinking that would be a good way to interface with a microcontroller. I will probably do more with them than just a display like the nixies, so less specific is better. A generic serial interface sounds good. Like you said, tradeoffs.

    #481 3 years ago

    Here's my arduino code "sketch" for the Exixe nixie driver ....
    This is for driving 4 nixie tubes
    you'd have to change the code to do more

    just send serial commands like this

    "<9r8g7b6w>"

    1st digit will be 9 with a red color
    2nd digit will be 8 with green color
    3rd digit will be 7 with blue color
    4th digit will be 6 with white color

    code/sketch below

    pinside took out the indentations... so hit me up for correct source arduino code

    #include <SPI.h>
    const int ss1 = 7; //slave select pin for digit 1
    const int ss2 = 8; //slave select pin for digit 2
    const int ss3 = 9; //slave select pin for digit 3
    const int ss4 = 10; //slave select pin for digit 4
    byte nix_buff[16] = {0xaa, 0x80, 0x80, 0x80, 0x80, 0x80, 0x80, 0x80, 0x80, 0x80, 0xff, 0x80, 0x80, 0xff, 0x80, 0x80};
    char serialReceived[8];

    byte digit1= 9;
    byte digit2= 8;
    byte digit3= 7;
    byte digit4= 6;
    byte d1c=115;
    byte d2c=119;
    byte d3c=112;
    byte d4c=115;

    void setup() {
    pinMode(ss1, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ss2, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ss3, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ss4, OUTPUT);
    Serial.begin(19200);
    SPI.begin();
    SPI.beginTransaction(SPISettings(4000000, MSBFIRST, SPI_MODE0));
    digitalWrite(ss1, LOW);
    for (int i = 0; i < 16; i = i + 1)
    SPI.transfer(nix_buff[i]);
    digitalWrite(ss1, HIGH);
    delay(1000);
    digitalWrite(ss2, LOW);
    for (int i = 0; i < 16; i = i + 1)
    SPI.transfer(nix_buff[i]);
    digitalWrite(ss2, HIGH);
    delay(1000);
    digitalWrite(ss3, LOW);
    for (int i = 0; i < 16; i = i + 1)
    SPI.transfer(nix_buff[i]);
    digitalWrite(ss3, HIGH);
    delay(1000);
    digitalWrite(ss4, LOW);
    for (int i = 0; i < 16; i = i + 1)
    SPI.transfer(nix_buff[i]);
    digitalWrite(ss4, HIGH);

    }

    void loop()
    {
    recWithSEmarkers();

    writenix(digit1, d1c, ss1);
    writenix(digit2, d2c, ss2);
    writenix(digit3, d3c, ss3);
    writenix(digit4, d4c, ss4);

    }
    void recWithSEmarkers() {
    static boolean recvInProgress= false;
    static byte ndx = 0;
    char startmarker = '<';
    char endmarker = '>';
    char rc;

    while (Serial.available() > 0) {
    rc = Serial.read();

    if (recvInProgress == true) {
    if (rc != endmarker) {
    serialReceived[ndx] = rc;
    ndx++;
    }
    else {
    serialReceived[ndx] = '\0'; //terminate the string
    recvInProgress = false;
    ndx=0;
    }
    }
    else if (rc==startmarker){
    recvInProgress=true;
    }
    digit1 = serialReceived[7]-48;
    d1c = serialReceived[6];
    digit2 = serialReceived[5]-48;
    d2c = serialReceived[4];
    digit3 = serialReceived[3]-48;
    d3c = serialReceived[2];
    digit4 = serialReceived[1]-48;
    d4c = serialReceived[0];
    }

    }

    void writenix(int number,byte DigitColor, int sspin) {
    if (DigitColor==119){
    nix_buff[13] = 0xff;
    nix_buff[14] = 0xff;
    nix_buff[15] = 0xff;
    }
    if (DigitColor==114){
    nix_buff[13] = 0xff;
    nix_buff[14] = 0x80;
    nix_buff[15] = 0x80;
    }
    if (DigitColor==103){
    nix_buff[13] = 0x80;
    nix_buff[14] = 0xff;
    nix_buff[15] = 0x80;
    }
    if (DigitColor==98){
    nix_buff[13] = 0x80;
    nix_buff[14] = 0x80;
    nix_buff[15] = 0xff;
    }
    if (DigitColor==121){
    nix_buff[13] = 0xff;
    nix_buff[14] = 0xff;
    nix_buff[15] = 0x80;
    }
    if (DigitColor == 112){
    nix_buff[13] = 0xc8;
    nix_buff[14] = 0x8d;
    nix_buff[15] = 0xff;
    }
    if (DigitColor==111){
    nix_buff[13] = 0xff;
    nix_buff[14] = 0xc0;
    nix_buff[15] = 0x00;}

    if (DigitColor==110){
    nix_buff[13] = 0x80;
    nix_buff[14] = 0x80;
    nix_buff[15] = 0x80;}

    for (int i = 1 ; i < 11; i = i + 1) { //clear numbers
    nix_buff[i] = 0x80;
    }
    nix_buff[0] = 0xaa;

    if (number == 0)
    number = 10;
    nix_buff[number] = 0xff; //write number

    digitalWrite(sspin, LOW);
    delay(1);
    for (int i = 0; i < 16; i = i + 1)
    SPI.transfer(nix_buff[i]);
    digitalWrite(sspin, HIGH);

    }

    #482 3 years ago

    Lot’s of ways to do it I guess. I haven’t dug into the MPF code enough to be able to decide which would make the most sense for me. You have it set up (planned) with your countdown timer in MPF directly updating the nixie display at predetermined intervals, thus treating the Arduino like any other segment display. I was thinking another way would be to implement the timer in the Arduino code. That way you pass it a color and a number only once at the start and let the Arduino processor handle the rest. That would just cut down on the serial communications and distribute the processing to the Arduino. Maybe Jan could weigh in on that idea since he is familiar with all the pieces, and is a programmer.

    Sorry, I’m not trying to make this more complicated than it needs to be. Technically, the right way to do it is the one YOU get working and it looks like you have a plan with all the pieces ready to go. I think the only reason to consider changing anything would be if you found a delay in MPF or the serial comm that caused the countdown display to hesitate. My guess is the NUC that is running MPF and the serial interface is more than capable, so that shouldn’t be an issue.

    4 months later
    23
    #483 3 years ago

    Long time no update.
    Took about 6 months off.

    Last couple of times the nephew came down we just played the game, and didn’t code.

    Did change the pop bumpers a little bit anD now they work amazing.
    Added some .005” shim stock under them and took away the lower 15degree rings. Now the millisecond the ball touches the upper ring the pop bumpers fires.

    Also added spring plunger set screws to the top. Now I can adjust the pops height .

    The lower they are the closer they are to each other . So I can tune how active they are.

    Have figured out code is everything for pinball.

    All the mechs and shots worked from day one....well day after assembly anyways.

    Game was barely fun with no rules.

    As the code fills in the fun goes up exponentially.

    73B33E48-475F-44F7-B071-DE03A47C247D (resized).jpeg73B33E48-475F-44F7-B071-DE03A47C247D (resized).jpeg
    #484 3 years ago

    Amazing game! Keep up the spirit!!

    #485 3 years ago

    Playfield is getting pretty dirty!

    10
    #486 3 years ago

    SickNate made a quick little concept GUI for you while on break at work.
    I hope you can tell that its the driver’s view of inside a car or I did a bad job haha. Maybe you could get someone to really make it come alive for you, I really want to contribute to this project but I’m pretty busy myself with projects. If you want the blank GUI without words so you can put the overlay score and what not let me know.

    My vision was to add some skull with ILIDILA engraved somewhere that lights a letter until its spelled but I ran out of time. Right now the V8 engine concept is that a flame is ignited to represent how many balls are in play, in the picture it represents 4 balls currently in play AKA 4 flames.

    Let me know what you think, if i can get more time one day ill try to contribute more. Im in marketing and do a lot of graphic design but like i said i just made that on my 30 minute break and made that on my PHONE so its just a concept.
    60C4BC48-5F91-4181-ADB6-1506191DE71B (resized).jpeg60C4BC48-5F91-4181-ADB6-1506191DE71B (resized).jpeg
    70E8DAC6-280D-4222-BAD3-496CDA49C902 (resized).jpeg70E8DAC6-280D-4222-BAD3-496CDA49C902 (resized).jpeg
    7545BE80-D2FB-4E48-B17D-E36C0F8A7981 (resized).jpeg7545BE80-D2FB-4E48-B17D-E36C0F8A7981 (resized).jpeg

    #487 3 years ago

    That looks awesome!

    #488 3 years ago

    Wilberto757 you are hired.

    I will dm you and we can discuss

    #489 3 years ago

    Zacaj,

    Yes playfield is dirty. over 1000 play. This is white wood #1.

    I’m torn between sanding down and applying art to this one or making a new playfield for the final game.

    I like the idea of a finished game with first Prototype playfield.

    I also really want to try a new style of playfield....
    10 mm white plastic playfield with 2mm polycarbonate top, artwork sandwiched between.

    Yeah yeah ,I know other people have done polycarbonate covers....but they all use wood underneath.

    Problem with wood is it grows and shrinks with temp and humidity changes. Plastic on plastic won’t have that problem.

    Instead of inserts I’ll just cut through holes/shapes in the 10mm part.

    This way I can make any shape I want. I may even cut in grooves for EL wire to light up shot paths.

    #490 3 years ago

    That'll be interesting. I wouldn't even know where to source a piece of plastic that big :/ Do you plan on gluing them all together, or?

    I think it'd be pretty cool to have the finished game, and then your original whitewood, covered in dirt, hanging on the wall next to it

    #491 3 years ago

    Every time I open up pinside I hope to see this thread with a new post in it - love this project, thanks for the update!

    #492 3 years ago

    A few problems I see with plastic playfield: warping/sagging. I have some shelves made of 1 inch plexi and they sagged a ton without center supports.

    Weight. I imagine it would be heavier than a wood pf.

    And splitting and cracking. Especially if you’re screwing mechs like flippers straight into plastic. I don’t know how it would stand up to the repetitive force.

    I haven’t tested any of this but just something to think about.

    #493 3 years ago

    Some plastics are very tough.
    On the audits, there’s over 40,000 hits on some of the pop bumpers. They’re doing fine with plastic bodies.

    Most sag will be mitigated by the side rails , back wood, and mechs themselves being bolted down.

    The 2 pieces will be held together by all the mechs and side rails being bolted together.

    As far as screws in plastic, I would not use wood screws. I would drill and tap holes and use machine screws. In areas that need more strength, pem/insert nuts.

    #494 3 years ago

    Just found this thread today and read from post 1 to post 493 in its entirety. Favorited the thread and hoping for some future updates. Awesome work Nate and Justin!

    #495 3 years ago

    just imagining this in a lineup between Alien and Big Lebowski....

    #496 3 years ago

    If any streamer in SoCal would like to come play and stream this I’d be down.

    As riveting as me explaining all the code and rule changes would be, I think video would be better.

    I was hoping to get this thing to a pinball show by now.

    #497 3 years ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    10 mm white plastic playfield with 2mm polycarbonate top, artwork sandwiched between.

    With plastic and polycarbonate playfields my main concern would be bad for humans offgassing due to the sustained heat generated by the coils on long sessions. I think that's why everyone else has done wood with a poly top.

    #498 3 years ago

    You do realize that the coils are surrounded by plastic already. Sleeve. What do you think the wire is wrapper around?

    If hot plastic was that dangerous we’d all die driving cars around.

    #499 3 years ago
    Quoted from SickNate:

    You do realize that the coils are surrounded by plastic already. Sleeve. What do you think the wire is wrapper around?
    If hot plastic was that dangerous we’d all die driving cars around.

    Depends on the KIND of plastic. It's not all of them (or maybe it IS and we just don't know what it's doing to us). I believe coils are nylon.

    #500 3 years ago
    Quoted from PinMonk:

    Depends on the KIND of plastic. It's not all of them (or maybe it IS and we just don't know what it's doing to us). I believe coils are nylon.

    Most plastics sublimate at or around 400 Fahrenheit. If your coils get that hot, I would say you have a lot bigger issues to deal with like your machine is about to catch fire.

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