Quoted from captkirk:Anybody know of a good step-by-step resource?
I know this is an old topic, and that most people with a Tron already have their Hallmark Light Cycles wired in and mounted, but I used this thread and gleaned a few nuggets of wisdom from it, so I'm adding a step-by-step with pictures to contribute.
First, test the Light Cycles to ensure they work before going to all the trouble of wiring them up. Next, use a hook to twist out the ornament hanging ring. Add a dab of gloss black paint to the hole.
Get a small, fine blade screwdriver (or something similar), and gently pry the backing off. It's lightly glued on, and is quite easy to pry up without breaking if you are gentle.
The button that turns on the light will fall out when you take the back cover off. I just used a tiny amount of super glue on the underside of the hole that the button goes through, oriented the button correctly and inserted it back in, and let it cure. This is only for cosmetic reasons as the button is no longer functional.
The actual switch is now visible. You can unseat it, and either de-solder it or use snips to cut it out as the two blue wires are going to be soldered together so the light cycles stay illuminated all the time. After you've soldered them together, you can tuck them back neatly into the recess, and reinstall the cover. I found that the fit of the cover was such that I didn't even need to glue it back on.
Next, use some fine sandpaper to scuff the chrome off the battery terminals, so that you can solder the wiring to them. Remember that button batteries have polarity seemingly reversed, so the spring end is positive (as opposed to AA's).
For the battery cover, we need to either drill a hole or a notch to accommodate the wires.
You can reinstall the battery cover without the need to glue it back on.
I drilled pilot holes in the tires so as not to split the seam. Drill the root diameter of the screw (not the diameter of the threads) so that the threads of the screw will still have some bite to them. Be careful that you don't drill through the inside of the wheel.
Mounting: I liked the suggestion of using the tires as a mounting point, as you won't see anything under the cycle. I found some small, shallow screws (so as not to go through the wheel) and drilled the mounting plastic. I countersunk the hole slightly to accommodate the screw heads.
You can see how the screw heads are almost perfectly flush with the underside of the acrylic.
I mounted the cycles and then ran the wires as you can see in the image below (blue arrows).
Under the playfield, I used a small two-terminal Molex header for each cycle, and connected them to a small four terminal Molex connector, and then ran that to the FTS-8 board I got from DK Custom Pinball.
Thanks to everyone for the info in this thread, and hopefully it helps someone down the road too.