I use the putty to mount mine. works great and you don't have to drill anything. I got mine from hobby lobby or Michael's and its called Crafty Tack made by Artminds. Others use museum putty which it just about the same thing.
I use the putty to mount mine. works great and you don't have to drill anything. I got mine from hobby lobby or Michael's and its called Crafty Tack made by Artminds. Others use museum putty which it just about the same thing.
Thanks for the info, guys!
With the help from this thread, I just completed a set of cycles with Comet LEDs.
Just ordered my Hallmark lightcycles to add something extra to the upper playfield.
Can someone confirm the bulbs they used for best results in the middle of the lightcycle?
So far I'll order:
2 yellow flex 555s (1 for each wheel) http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smdflexng.htm
2 blue flex 555s (1 for each wheel)
Based on the help of hoby1, fellow pinsider, it looks like I'll need 1 more LED but wanted to know which one people have been using in the center of the lightcycle.
the cycles from hallmark are already lighted. If you are going to replace the leds in the cycle with others then you will have to split the cycle. Its a big PITA to do it without breaking anything or scratching up the cycle.
How bright are the Hallmark LEDs that are already installed? From what I've been reading, they aren't very bright and burn out rather quickly.
Quoted from DrMark12PA:How bright are the Hallmark LEDs that are already installed? From what I've been reading, they aren't very bright and burn out rather quickly.
Plenty bright imo. Don't tie them into the lamps, only the constant 5V source (or the PIG board) on a pro machine and they should last a long time. On an LE you can tie into the 5v DC insert lighting if you wanted.
I am thinking I actually have quite a rare set-up on my light cycles. On my Tron Pro I tied them into the insert sockets with a diode and a current limiting resistor. I did the same thing with the recognizer that I custom lit using LED's from Radio Shack and leftover blue window film from my old STTNG Borg ship. I also took the Quorra car that was mounted on the ramp, installed 2 green LED's in the seats of the car and mounted it on the ramp just above the left inlane. So what I ended up with is 4 lighted figures that are off when their mode is not started, flash when the mode has been started but not completed, and solidly lit when the mode has been completed.
This set-up has been working for years now and the original Light Cycle LED's are still working fine.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:I am thinking I actually have quite a rare set-up on my light cycles. On my Tron Pro I tied them into the insert sockets with a diode and a current limiting resistor. I did the same thing with the recognizer that I custom lit using LED's from Radio Shack and leftover blue window film from my old STTNG Borg ship. I also took the Quorra car that was mounted on the ramp, installed 2 green LED's in the seats of the car and mounted it on the ramp just above the left inlane. So what I ended up with is 4 lighted figures that are off when their mode is not started, flash when the mode has been started but not completed, and solidly lit when the mode has been completed.
This set-up has been working for years now and the original Light Cycle LED's are still working fine.
Can you post a picture of the Quorra car?
Quoted from LOTR_breath:I am thinking I actually have quite a rare set-up on my light cycles. On my Tron Pro I tied them into the insert sockets with a diode and a current limiting resistor. I did the same thing with the recognizer that I custom lit using LED's from Radio Shack and leftover blue window film from my old STTNG Borg ship. I also took the Quorra car that was mounted on the ramp, installed 2 green LED's in the seats of the car and mounted it on the ramp just above the left inlane. So what I ended up with is 4 lighted figures that are off when their mode is not started, flash when the mode has been started but not completed, and solidly lit when the mode has been completed.
This set-up has been working for years now and the original Light Cycle LED's are still working fine.
Yes, but see, most people are too stupid or lazy to listen to the warnings that some of us have been saying for years that you still need a resistor when using the inserts as a votage source.
I was looking for something to do with the car, so I'm gonna steal that. Thanks. Maybe not the location.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:I am thinking I actually have quite a rare set-up on my light cycles. On my Tron Pro I tied them into the insert sockets with a diode and a current limiting resistor. I did the same thing with the recognizer that I custom lit using LED's from Radio Shack and leftover blue window film from my old STTNG Borg ship. I also took the Quorra car that was mounted on the ramp, installed 2 green LED's in the seats of the car and mounted it on the ramp just above the left inlane. So what I ended up with is 4 lighted figures that are off when their mode is not started, flash when the mode has been started but not completed, and solidly lit when the mode has been completed.
This set-up has been working for years now and the original Light Cycle LED's are still working fine.
Could you provide more details on what diode and resistors you used and how you wired those up specifically to the appropriate inserts? This sounds like a fantastic idea and would love to see more pictures of your game as well as your wiring scheme.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:I am thinking I actually have quite a rare set-up on my light cycles. On my Tron Pro I tied them into the insert sockets with a diode and a current limiting resistor. I did the same thing with the recognizer that I custom lit using LED's from Radio Shack and leftover blue window film from my old STTNG Borg ship. I also took the Quorra car that was mounted on the ramp, installed 2 green LED's in the seats of the car and mounted it on the ramp just above the left inlane. So what I ended up with is 4 lighted figures that are off when their mode is not started, flash when the mode has been started but not completed, and solidly lit when the mode has been completed.
This set-up has been working for years now and the original Light Cycle LED's are still working fine.
I had my tron this way for a couple of the mods. I had the cycles on all the time though just cause I liked the look of them.
Here is my Tron, I did the same with green Led's and put it over quorra's lane. All of the mods i have are connected to a PIG 2 and run off the lights in the middle.
Quoted from Cursed:Here is my Tron, I did the same with green Led's and put it over quorra's lane. All of the mods i have are connected to a PIG 2 and run off the lights in the middle.
» YouTube video
I like the light runner over the Quorra shot too. Mine may end up there once I get my light cycles installed.
I'll see if I can get more pics and details of how I wired it. It was several years ago when I did this so I really don't remember the details. I know I used a single diode to get half-wave rectification, and a fairly low ohm resistor.
Quoted from Cursed:Here is my Tron, I did the same with green Led's and put it over quorra's lane. All of the mods i have are connected to a PIG 2 and run off the lights in the middle.
» YouTube video
Thanks for the video!
Couple of questions:
1) How did you mount your Zeus, extra recognizer, Gem, and Quorras car?
2) What lights and where did you tie into for your Zeus, recognizer, and Quorras car?
No worries.
1) Zeus is a kit from hooked, he comes premounted. The extra recogniser i removed a small hex shaft on one side (and screwed it in the pre existing hole) and on the other side i drilled a small hole and screwed it in also. Gem is just some glue and quorra's car i again drilled one hole and screwed it down. I have to stress that Tron is my favorite game and is going nowhere so drilling and gluing was no problem for me.
2) Zeus, recognizer and Quorra are tied into the corresponding insert in the middle. I used a Pig 2 to connect everything in.
Hope this is helpful.
Quoted from Cursed:No worries.
1) Zeus is a kit from hooked, he comes premounted. The extra recogniser i removed a small hex shaft on one side (and screwed it in the pre existing hole) and on the other side i drilled a small hole and screwed it in also. Gem is just some glue and quorra's car i again drilled one hole and screwed it down. I have to stress that Tron is my favorite game and is going nowhere so drilling and gluing was no problem for me.
2) Zeus, recognizer and Quorra are tied into the corresponding insert in the middle. I used a Pig 2 to connect everything in.
Hope this is helpful.
Could you post some closeups of where you mounted?
Is the Quorra car the one that was originally installed in the game and you just added lighting and remounted to the different location?
I'm considering ordering the PIG2 from DKY as it seems to make everything easier from what I'm reading. Do you find the PIG2 easy to use and fairly straight forward for a nonelectrician type of person (me)?
Here is a link to a thread on Pinballbash from 2 years ago.
http://pinballbash.com/forum/index.php?topic=13101.60
Look at page 5 to see my details of how I wired up the light cycles. This was before I did the Recognizer and the Quorra car. I would recommend the PIG if you are not good with a meter and soldering in tight spaces! I did a fairly poor job at mounting the Quorra car. I will see if I can get a few better pics up. For LED's I used some green LED's I bought at RadioShack. I'll see if I still have the package to get a part number. I just bent the legs on the LEDs to simulate a person sitting in the car, used a hot glue gun to fix them in the car, and ran wires to the legs of the LED's from underneath the car.
Also in that thread is a link to a video that Bryan did showing how the light cycles and recognizer are interactive with the modes. So much better than just tied into the GI.
Here you can see my crude method of mounting the car, but none of it is really visible to the player. I used a combination of velcro and I cut some B/W post sleeve rubbers to make the rear end of the car stand up so that the car is more visible and the LED's are angled more towards the player. I was unable to find the LED package but they are 5mm single LED's(green) from Radioshack. I'm sure there are better ones out there available. I used a single diode and a 10 ohm resistor and soldered directly to the lamp sockets on the center row of inserts in the middle of the playfield.(not for the feint of heart)!
DSCF6361.JPG DSCF6362.JPG DSCF6363.JPGSo I couldn't find the Radioshack part number for the LED's I used, but you want something like this....
Does anyone have any recommendations on what wiring to use for the Hallmark lightcycles to keep the wiring from standing out as much? I've typically used 24gauge speaker wire since it's easy to work with, small, lengths are easy to alter, and it has a more clear appearance vs light a red or white wire for exampe. However, I don't want something standing out in the playfield so just want some ideas on how people have concealed their lightcycle wiring both under the bike and behind running down the underside of the playfield.
Also, do most people drill a hole in the battery cover and run the wire through that?
I actually used different colored wires so I could keep track of the negative and positive leads of the LED's. Then, any part that is visible topside, I use a black magic marker to conceal it. I do not know what gauge the wire was.
Have Pinsiders used the old ramp platforms to attach their lightcycles or have you purchased the Pinbits dress up protectors?
I just removed the original ramps tops with the Quorra car and the small lightcycle... That was difficult on the car! With the locking nut on the bottom and my Eli ramp lighting it was extremely tough... Now I'm worried about putting them back on...
Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations having taken them off and put back on if there is an easy way ....
Ok, got the lightcycles installed and used UGlu to secure which worked perfectly. Be sure to get the already cut dots as the strip in a roll is next to impossible to cut without it getting all gummed up.
Next project I did was the Quorra car. I used 2 green flex LEDs removing them from the socket and ran the SMD so it sits on the floor of each passenger compartment. I then fasted the wiring underneath the car. My only question is where people have mounted the car. I'm consider using UGlu to fasten it to the Quorra spinner top bracket over the Quorra lane. Another member appears to have mounted to the plastic right behind the spinner over the Quorra lane. I've enclosed pictures of the Quorra car done and lit as well as placement of where I'm considering mounting the car. Opinions, suggestions, ideas welcome please!
Quorra car 1.jpgQuorra car 2.jpgQuorra car 3.jpgQuorra car 4.jpgQuorra car 5.jpgQuorra car 6.jpg
How have people connected their mods to their PIG2? I'm curious as to:
1) how did you physically connected the wires from the PIG2 to the corresponding insert light socket?
2) what settings are you using for your Hallmark lightcycles to your lightcycle inserts, Quorra car to the Quorra lane or to the Quorra multiball, etc)
OMG Zombie threads.
Another vote for carefully popping the top of the motorcycle battery off, and just bridging the switch. Be sure to remove that hanging hook first. I've included a picture below in case anyone else is trying to figure out what parts come off.
Superglue on the switch caused more harm than good.
2015-04-23 13.09.54.jpgQuoted from captkirk:Anybody know of a good step-by-step resource?
I know this is an old topic, and that most people with a Tron already have their Hallmark Light Cycles wired in and mounted, but I used this thread and gleaned a few nuggets of wisdom from it, so I'm adding a step-by-step with pictures to contribute.
First, test the Light Cycles to ensure they work before going to all the trouble of wiring them up. Next, use a hook to twist out the ornament hanging ring. Add a dab of gloss black paint to the hole.
Get a small, fine blade screwdriver (or something similar), and gently pry the backing off. It's lightly glued on, and is quite easy to pry up without breaking if you are gentle.
The button that turns on the light will fall out when you take the back cover off. I just used a tiny amount of super glue on the underside of the hole that the button goes through, oriented the button correctly and inserted it back in, and let it cure. This is only for cosmetic reasons as the button is no longer functional.
The actual switch is now visible. You can unseat it, and either de-solder it or use snips to cut it out as the two blue wires are going to be soldered together so the light cycles stay illuminated all the time. After you've soldered them together, you can tuck them back neatly into the recess, and reinstall the cover. I found that the fit of the cover was such that I didn't even need to glue it back on.
Next, use some fine sandpaper to scuff the chrome off the battery terminals, so that you can solder the wiring to them. Remember that button batteries have polarity seemingly reversed, so the spring end is positive (as opposed to AA's).
For the battery cover, we need to either drill a hole or a notch to accommodate the wires.
You can reinstall the battery cover without the need to glue it back on.
I drilled pilot holes in the tires so as not to split the seam. Drill the root diameter of the screw (not the diameter of the threads) so that the threads of the screw will still have some bite to them. Be careful that you don't drill through the inside of the wheel.
Mounting: I liked the suggestion of using the tires as a mounting point, as you won't see anything under the cycle. I found some small, shallow screws (so as not to go through the wheel) and drilled the mounting plastic. I countersunk the hole slightly to accommodate the screw heads.
You can see how the screw heads are almost perfectly flush with the underside of the acrylic.
I mounted the cycles and then ran the wires as you can see in the image below (blue arrows).
Under the playfield, I used a small two-terminal Molex header for each cycle, and connected them to a small four terminal Molex connector, and then ran that to the FTS-8 board I got from DK Custom Pinball.
Thanks to everyone for the info in this thread, and hopefully it helps someone down the road too.
Quoted from PNorth:I know this is an old topic, and that most people with a Tron already have their Hallmark Light Cycles wired in and mounted, but I used this thread and gleaned a few nuggets of wisdom from it, so I'm adding a step-by-step with pictures to contribute.
Your timing with this post is perfect for me. I'm in the process of installing a set in my game and have the cycles prepped just as you described above. I have the original PIG board and think I understand how to get the cycles wired into the molex power connector by the transformer to the PIG board (and then power my Flynn sign via the pass through connector on the board) and then bring in wires from my cycles to an "out" on the PIG (once I receive the appropriate molex connectors on order of course). However, what I don't know yet is where in the game to tap into an "in" to connect to the PIG for controlling the cycles. I hope this makes sense.
Yeah, using the PIG that should be possible. I could easily just stick with always on using the 5v off the PIG, which is probably what I'll end up having to do now. But, I'd rather tie it into the Tron insert, for instance. That's hard to figure out due to the way the inserts are lit from a narrow board on my Tron.
Should be 6.3 volts on the pro. I would think you'd be fine but may be wise to put a resistor on there just to be safe.
Just wondering, has anyone looked at disassembling a light cycle to fit WS2812 led in the tires ? That would allow for some super neat effects...
Cheers
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Here is a link to a thread on Pinballbash from 2 years ago.
http://pinballbash.com/forum/index.php?topic=13101.60
Look at page 5 to see my details of how I wired up the light cycles. This was before I did the Recognizer and the Quorra car. I would recommend the PIG if you are not good with a meter and soldering in tight spaces! I did a fairly poor job at mounting the Quorra car. I will see if I can get a few better pics up. For LED's I used some green LED's I bought at RadioShack. I'll see if I still have the package to get a part number. I just bent the legs on the LEDs to simulate a person sitting in the car, used a hot glue gun to fix them in the car, and ran wires to the legs of the LED's from underneath the car.
Also in that thread is a link to a video that Bryan did showing how the light cycles and recognizer are interactive with the modes. So much better than just tied into the GI.
PIG seems really flexible, unfortunately it does not seem to be manufactured anymore. Anyone would know where to get one ?
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