(Topic ID: 283512)

Wiring Outlets to Toggle Switches

By tyking

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by ReadyPO
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    View topic image gallery

    be005fb5-ec74-454d-9a88-50411bd59a0a_1.35af537e9771e7808d94793b0f2860b0 (resized).jpeg
    #1 3 years ago

    I am trying to set up a three pin / one arcade game game room with a set up of 4 toggle style switches on the wall, and one main switch, so you can have the effect of flipping the switch and having everything come on. Get ready for some noobie questions:

    First question, am I correct that you cannot use those 12v toggle switches that are used in cars?

    Second question, is there any information on the basic wiring for connecting switches to outlets? There are already three outlets (doubles) in the room, based on the layout, one double outlet can power two machines, another double outlet can power one machine, and I will have to add a new outlet to power the fourth machine. One of the double outlets would remain unconnected to any switch.

    Third question, where is a good place to get the hardware, toggle switches and face plates, preferably some toggle switches that have the little LED’s, and something unique for the main switch.

    Thanks

    #2 3 years ago

    If you connect the machines to an outlet strip, there will likely be an on-off switch and surge protection of some kind and a breaker for protection in the event of any major problems. Likely a 15 Amp breaker. I would suggest that you turn on the outlet strip with the machines off and turn them on, one at a time. It is likely that the initial power-on current will be slightly higher than after they reach "steady state". Turning the machine on with a switch rated at 12VDC is probably not a good idea, as the switch is likely not rated for 120 VAC. It might work several times, but I would not do it forever as the results might not be good. Just my thoughts...

    #3 3 years ago
    Quoted from tyking:

    Get ready for some noobie questions:

    Hire an electrician and get it done right.

    LTG : )

    #4 3 years ago

    What lloyd the great said.

    Old point of wisdom: if u have to ask, ur already in over your head.

    #5 3 years ago

    Just go to Lowes and buy 3-4, however many you need, remote control units, you can buy them such that one single remote control will turn all of them on at once.

    #6 3 years ago

    You need to match the voltage and the amperage, if you don't want your house to burn down.

    So you need a toggle switch that is rated for 120 volts AC, and 20 amps of current

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-Black-Silver-Toggle-Light-Switch/3379556

    #7 3 years ago

    Then add an old-school gem indicator lamp above each switch
    be005fb5-ec74-454d-9a88-50411bd59a0a_1.35af537e9771e7808d94793b0f2860b0 (resized).jpegbe005fb5-ec74-454d-9a88-50411bd59a0a_1.35af537e9771e7808d94793b0f2860b0 (resized).jpeg

    #8 3 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Hire an electrician and get it done right.
    LTG : )

    This is certainly the best way.

    Quoted from tyking:

    I am trying to set up a three pin / one arcade game game room with a set up of 4 toggle style switches on the wall, and one main switch, so you can have the effect of flipping the switch and having everything come on. Get ready for some noobie questions:
    First question, am I correct that you cannot use those 12v toggle switches that are used in cars?
    Second question, is there any information on the basic wiring for connecting switches to outlets? There are already three outlets (doubles) in the room, based on the layout, one double outlet can power two machines, another double outlet can power one machine, and I will have to add a new outlet to power the fourth machine. One of the double outlets would remain unconnected to any switch.
    Third question, where is a good place to get the hardware, toggle switches and face plates, preferably some toggle switches that have the little LED’s, and something unique for the main switch.
    Thanks

    It sound like you want a 5 gang box with a master switch to run the other 4 switches that will individually operate half of a duplex outlet

    There are lighted handle "toggle switches" that are illuminated when power is OFF so you can see them in the dark https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-Single-Pole-White-LED-Toggle-Light-Switch/1002944258?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-google-_-lia-_-205-_-wiringdevices-_-1002944258-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI64fvy5LH7QIVEPDACh1L9QW2EAQYBSABEgLD8PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

    Then there are "pilot light" switches that are illuminated when the power is ON https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20-Amp-Industrial-Grade-Heavy-Duty-Single-Pole-Pilot-Light-Toggle-Switch-Red-1221-PLR/301447168?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-VF-F_D27E-G-D27E-27_2_WIRING_DEVICES-MULTI-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-WIRING_DEVICES&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_D27E-G-D27E-27_2_WIRING_DEVICES-MULTI-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-WIRING_DEVICES-71700000033102358-58700003867202208-92700048704098252&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI64fvy5LH7QIVEPDACh1L9QW2EAQYAyABEgJlZ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

    According to this post you can have it all on one circuit. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-many-pinball-machines-on-a-15-amp-circuit-without-tripping

    #9 3 years ago

    If you are going for 'the all powerful effect' of power-up and down, why don't you just get a power strip that can carry, say, 20 amps, (Harbor Fried has a 12 outlet strip for $25) and attach 4 Wifi controlled Alexa outlets- one for each machine. You can then have full programable VOICE CONTROL, such as "Alexa, Turn Jurassic Park On" , or "Alexa, turn ALL machines ON" or "Alexa, Turn All machines off", etc etc

    The reason being, you can easily setup Alexa to power up any single machine, or all of them with a few seconds apart to allow power inrush to be lessened. How cool would it be for the machines to power up in order from left to right??? And you can use the machine's actual name instead of just a silly switch. It's all voice activated, the Alexa DOT is all you need ($30) along with power outlets ($6-8 a piece). No electrician, no burning down the house, no hassle, and SOOOOO COOL to have voice controlling it all. And if you get really into the voice control, you can replace the wall switch for your overhead room lights so that the room lights turn OFF, whenever you turn any machine, ON!!!

    How cool is that?

    #10 3 years ago
    Quoted from Dent00:

    If you connect the machines to an outlet strip, there will likely be an on-off switch and surge protection of some kind and a breaker for protection in the event of any major problems. Likely a 15 Amp breaker. I would suggest that you turn on the outlet strip with the machines off and turn them on, one at a time. It is likely that the initial power-on current will be slightly higher than after they reach "steady state". Turning the machine on with a switch rated at 12VDC is probably not a good idea, as the switch is likely not rated for 120 VAC. It might work several times, but I would not do it forever as the results might not be good. Just my thoughts...

    Thanks, I will check out how many amps on the circuit.

    #11 3 years ago
    Quoted from Markharris2000:

    If you are going for 'the all powerful effect' of power-up and down, why don't you just get a power strip that can carry, say, 20 amps, (Harbor Fried has a 12 outlet strip for $25) and attach 4 Wifi controlled Alexa outlets- one for each machine. You can then have full programable VOICE CONTROL, such as "Alexa, Turn Jurassic Park On" , or "Alexa, turn ALL machines ON" or "Alexa, Turn All machines off", etc etc
    The reason being, you can easily setup Alexa to power up any single machine, or all of them with a few seconds apart to allow power inrush to be lessened. How cool would it be for the machines to power up in order from left to right??? And you can use the machine's actual name instead of just a silly switch. It's all voice activated, the Alexa DOT is all you need ($30) along with power outlets ($6-8 a piece). No electrician, no burning down the house, no hassle, and SOOOOO COOL to have voice controlling it all. And if you get really into the voice control, you can replace the wall switch for your overhead room lights so that the room lights turn OFF, whenever you turn any machine, ON!!!
    How cool is that?

    You should work for amazon, you may have just sold me on it. But I am also trying to recreate the flipping of the toggle switch on the machine, onto the wall. So I may go all in and do both... thanks

    #12 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Then add an old school gem indicator lamp above each switch
    [quoted image]

    Picture says a thousand words, much appreciated!

    #13 3 years ago

    The circuit for this arcade set up may or may not also include the furnace, so, if so, I will definitely create a new circuit for the pins, etc., or have an electrician do it if I feel over my head. But honestly right now I feel way more over my head touching up a playfield.

    #14 3 years ago

    I would think you could re-wire the outlets to be on a switch, then either deal with a switch, or fab a toggle switch that activates a switch, like a face plate that mounts on top.
    Or
    get wifi plugs in's, then custom a switch to activate those wifi plugs on/off.

    What kind of walls are in the room now? because romex/wire will need to be pulled to make current outlets "switchable". which, if a hired electrician does this it can easily be $70-100+ an hour. Plus if the furnace is on the same circuit, you'd probably want that moved to its own.
    I would opt for a wifi plug and toggle switch mod to save cost and have a fun project.....

    #15 3 years ago
    Quoted from tyking:

    Thanks, I will check out how many amps on the circuit.

    If the wire run to the outlet is #14, which most house wiring is, it will likely be on a 15 amp breaker already. If you use an outlet strip with a 20 amp breaker, it might never trip, because the 15 amp breaker at the panel will trip first. And, don't even think about replacing the 15 amp breaker in the panel with a 20 amp breaker, as the wire will not be rated for 20 amps and could get hot and cause a fire, if it is ever loaded to that 20 amp limit. New #12 wire would be required for a 20 amp circuit.

    #16 3 years ago
    Quoted from Markharris2000:

    nd attach 4 Wifi controlled Alexa outlets- one for each machine. You can then have full programable VOICE CONTROL, such as "Alexa, Turn Jurassic Park On" , or "Alexa, turn ALL machines ON" or "Alexa, Turn All machines off", etc etc

    I have my pins on Alexa outlets in banks - Alexa, turn on Pins1, Alexa, turn off Pins2, etc. I tell Alexa to turn them on before I go downstairs, and turn them off on my way back up. Too easy. Alexa turns on my lights and plays my music playlists in the game room too ....

    Reply

    Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

    Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

    Donate to Pinside

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


    This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wiring-outlets-to-toggle-switches?hl=chas10e and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

    Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.