(Topic ID: 314365)

WIP - The Ball of Cthulhu

By leeoneil

1 year ago


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  • 291 posts
  • 27 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 47 hours ago by leeoneil
  • Topic is favorited by 27 Pinsiders

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    There are 291 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 6.
    #1 1 year ago

    Hello everyone,
    I'm new here, I come from the pincab community.
    Recently i saw the work of scottacus with is awesome "Cuphead homebrew pinball", and it gave me the idea to try to build a pinball by myself.
    I never owned a real pinball, i don't know how it works, but i hope i'll learn enough to go to the end of this adventure.

    I'm at the very beginning.
    Scottacus gave me some information (and some STL files, thank you again !!!).
    In our french pincab community, i'm also learning from "Coolfire", a guy who started his pinball in december.

    I'm beginning with MPF and a Cobra Pinboard.
    And i'm already stuck !!!!

    I'm trying to find a schematic of the wires for a dual wound flippers, controlled with MPF (not with the EOS mechanic).
    Coolfire gave me this :
    https://imgproxy.pinside.com/xfgl09sAJigt9CmwzW3vD2H4r7W6k4wadm0a0APbc_c/rs:fit:2048:2048/q:70/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tLzAvNjMvNDYvMDYzNDY3ZWMxNWMwZDdmYWEzMWVlYWMwZTAwYmE5MWUxMWQwMGYzNi5qcGc

    But it's EOS mechanic controlled.
    I'm sorry but i don't understand what' i'm supposed to do for a MPF power controlled. I'm reading the MPF documentation but i can't find the solution.
    Is there anyone here to help me please ?
    Thank's in advance !

    If i'll manage not to burn everything, it will be a "Lovecraft themed pinball".
    As i said, i'm at the very beginning, here is some pictures of my plank of wood.

    https://imgproxy.pinside.com/W171AI-357iqZ_DhQpfQ-JhZNMTtC5dzLiiTA_e03z8/rs:fit:2048:2048/q:70/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tL2UvYzMvNTcvZWMzNTdmZDAyMmMxOWZhMTNiYWU0ZWNkYzQxNjdhNDU3ZjA0NmY0Yy5qcGc

    https://imgproxy.pinside.com/J_3q7zYnX46jY0agk1h0OtOj20fvIL2h7M-tU8bWwUI/rs:fit:2048:2048/q:70/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tLzMvZDgvMzYvM2Q4MzZlMGM5ZDgxNzE0ZDU4ODc3OGZmZWFiMDUyYzE2ZjY1ZjUzYy5qcGc

    Thank you if you can help me !

    40d8d310 (resized).jpg40d8d310 (resized).jpgIMG_0076 (resized).jpgIMG_0076 (resized).jpgIMG_0075 (resized).jpgIMG_0075 (resized).jpg

    Ball-of-Cthulhu-9 (resized).jpgBall-of-Cthulhu-9 (resized).jpg
    #2 1 year ago

    https://docs.missionpinball.org/en/latest/mechs/flippers/dual_wound.html

    That’s how to set it up in MPF

    To wire it, you need to send power to the common lug and a return wire from both the power and hold windings to separate solenoid drivers on the cobra board.

    Just take off the EOS switch. Or you can wire it up as a switch and then MPF can sense if the flipper bat was knocked down by a fast ball.

    #3 1 year ago

    TreyBo69 Thank you for taking time to answer !

    Did i understand correctly ?
    I need to do this, only 3 wires ? (see photo)

    No wires between the differents parts of the flippers/coil ?

    Sorry if i double checked, but i'm not sure of the meaning of english terms, and google translation can't help me !

    double_coil_cobra (resized).jpgdouble_coil_cobra (resized).jpg
    #4 1 year ago

    I’m not sure which lug is the common in the photo, but that generally looks right

    Alternatively you can use the EOS switch on the flipper and use only one solenoid output on the cobra pin. But that limits you in dialing in power via software and novelty flipper modes, like weak flippers or reverse flippers.

    #5 1 year ago

    Thank's again !
    Yes i'd like to use weak flippers, so i will try this way. Thank's again for your help !

    #6 1 year ago

    "Small" progress in adding the bumpers.
    I'm totally discovering every parts of a pinball. That's very nice to see how it works !

    IMG_0114_web (resized).jpgIMG_0114_web (resized).jpg

    IMG_0124_web (resized).jpgIMG_0124_web (resized).jpg

    Start to look like a real pinball machine !
    IMG_0121_web (resized).jpgIMG_0121_web (resized).jpg

    #7 1 year ago

    Very nice. Following and happy to help. Another place you can post questions is the MPF discord group. PM me if you want help getting set up there.

    #8 1 year ago

    As you start developing your shots, don’t underestimate the usefulness of using foam board and hot glue. In an hour you can try a shot layout and figure out if it works. If it doesn’t, no matter with 15 minutes in a razor blade you can start over.

    #9 1 year ago
    Quoted from Cmartin1235:

    As you start developing your shots, don’t underestimate the usefulness of using foam board and hot glue. In an hour you can try a shot layout and figure out if it works. If it doesn’t, no matter with 15 minutes in a razor blade you can start over.

    That's a very cool advice !
    First I need to connect and power the cobra and the flippers, but i will need soon to try the ramp shots.
    I'll remember your advice, thank's !

    #10 1 year ago

    Huuuge step for me today, even if it looks basic for everyone.

    I've just powered one flipper and we did some tests with MPF and power (5ms to 100ms).
    It's alive !!!!

    I need now to wire everything on the playfield (3 flippers, 3 bumpers, slinghots), and I can advance to real test shots for ramps.

    #11 1 year ago
    Quoted from leeoneil:

    Huuuge step for me today, even if it looks basic for everyone.
    I've just powered one flipper and we did some tests with MPF and power (5ms to 100ms).
    It's alive !!!!

    I need now to wire everything on the playfield (3 flippers, 3 bumpers, slinghots), and I can advance to real test shots for ramps.

    Great job! Once you get the first couple programmed, it's pretty easy on the rest. Takes some messing with on some, but I love MPF so far. I am using it with Cobra as well. Can't wait to see more!

    #12 1 year ago

    Hello everyone.
    I have a big problem with dual wound flippers , MPF and a cobrapin. I tried to post int he MPF user group, but my message is erased every time...
    I made some tests and some of the coil overheated, and one of the coil sleeve meltdown.
    Maybe someone can help !

    I have 3 flippers
    1 upper flipper, and 2 regular at the bottom.
    I wanted to use the software MPF to adjust the power of my dual wound flippers.

    When i want to maintain the flipper UP, the 2 regular start to overheat.
    It seems the upper one does not have problem.
    I don't understand, because i've wired them the same way, like this :

    wire_flipper_coil (resized).jpgwire_flipper_coil (resized).jpg
    Yeah my melting is not very good, but i'm not sure it can be part of the problem.
    My power supply is a 48V
    The flipper coil are FL11629/50V

    branchement_cobra_coil_flipper (resized).jpgbranchement_cobra_coil_flipper (resized).jpg

    Here is a part of my MPF config file.

    #config_version=5
    hardware:
    platform: opp
    driverboards: gen2

    opp:
    #Use the USB ports defined by your OS for the two STM32 boards
    ports: COM4, COM5

    #hardware:
    # platform: smart_virtual

    switches:
    s_left_flipper:
    number: 0-0-1
    tags: left_flipper
    s_right_flipper:
    number: 0-0-2
    tags: right_flipper

    coils:
    c_flipper_Upleft_main:
    number: 0-0-9
    default_pulse_ms: 50
    c_flipper_Upleft_hold:
    number: 0-0-8
    allow_enable: true
    c_flipper_left_main:
    number: 0-0-14
    default_pulse_ms: 70
    c_flipper_left_hold:
    number: 0-0-13
    allow_enable: true
    c_flipper_right_main:
    number: 0-0-12
    default_pulse_ms: 70
    c_flipper_right_hold:
    number: 0-0-0
    allow_enable: true

    flippers:
    Up_left_flipper:
    main_coil: c_flipper_Upleft_main
    hold_coil: c_flipper_Upleft_hold
    activation_switch: s_left_flipper
    enable_events: machine_reset_phase_3
    left_flipper:
    main_coil: c_flipper_left_main
    hold_coil: c_flipper_left_hold
    activation_switch: s_left_flipper
    enable_events: machine_reset_phase_3
    right_flipper:
    main_coil: c_flipper_right_main
    hold_coil: c_flipper_right_hold
    activation_switch: s_right_flipper
    enable_events: machine_reset_phase_3

    I really don't understand what's going on.
    Thank's if someone have an idea !

    #13 1 year ago

    It does not look like you have an error in the code.
    i have the same coils in a homebrew of mine.
    i have the pulse power set to 26 and they are very strong. Maybe try that value.
    also you don't need the diodes. You can just cut them of. I don't think though they could cause such a problem. Hopefully decreasing the pulse power will solve your problem.

    #14 1 year ago

    Or maybe too much power goes to the coils? You could test with a multimeter.

    #15 1 year ago

    Cool project, following.

    #16 1 year ago
    Quoted from stefanmader:

    i have the pulse power set to 26 and they are very strong. Maybe try that value.

    Thank's for your anwser.
    I tried but the problem still here.

    Very strange : with the multimeter, i tried to measure the voltage between each lug of the coil.
    On the upper flipper, there's no voltage between first and second lug when we maintain the coil.

    On the two others (wich are overheating), there's 45V between these two lugs, when we maintain it.....
    And they produce a small crackling electric sound...

    #17 1 year ago
    Quoted from leeoneil:

    Thank's for your anwser.
    I tried but the problem still here.
    Very strange : with the multimeter, i tried to measure the voltage between each lug of the coil.
    On the upper flipper, there's no voltage between first and second lug when we maintain the coil.
    On the two others (wich are overheating), there's 45V between these two lugs, when we maintain it.....
    And they produce a small crackling electric sound...

    Hm that doesn't sound good.
    and there is no chance you wired the main and hold coil swapped?
    Maybe somebody else has a good idea, i am not really an electric expert.

    #18 1 year ago

    Maybe I just "destroyed" the 2 coils with my 70ms config, and the only one that remains good was configured with 50ms.
    But now with 25ms, they start heating despite the change.

    #19 1 year ago
    Quoted from leeoneil:

    Maybe I just "destroyed" the 2 coils with my 70ms config, and the only one that remains good was configured with 50ms.
    But now with 25ms, they start heating despite the change.

    Hm if they still heat up, it sounds that there has to be something wrong

    #20 1 year ago

    I tried to invert wire from "bad coil" to good one.
    The good one was making the awful crackling noise !

    Then i tried to reconnect the bad one, to make a test.
    Bad smoke and i blow a fuse on the CobraPin....

    I have a huge problem and i really don't understand it... Arf...

    edit : very "strange" (for me).
    It seems to come from "the wires" (the way i made it).
    I took 2 wires, and i put them directly into the cobra.
    The Coil is not overheating anymore !!!!

    I've put some connectors, to easily plug in the pinball. So i'll get rid of them and try a direct connection between the cobra and each element.
    Not easy to manipulate, but it look like the problem comes from here !

    I've also add the semi-automatic plunger and the ball ejector (not configured yet in MPF).

    IMG_0181_web (resized).jpgIMG_0181_web (resized).jpg

    #21 1 year ago

    Weird. Maybe the connectors you used are not made for that voltage. Glad you solved it!

    2 weeks later
    #22 1 year ago

    I worked a little bit on my pinball.
    Lot's of time trying to make some wood ramps... I think i'll pass, i'm not good enough to do it.
    Maybe i'll try some metal ramp...

    The playfield start to fill with stuff, it's nice to play with it !

    IMG_0251 (resized).JPGIMG_0251 (resized).JPG

    Cardboard ramps
    IMG_0253 (resized).JPGIMG_0253 (resized).JPG

    And "real" butons, to avoid another silly situation (before thaht, I was playing with the contactors in my hand...)
    IMG_0255 (resized).JPGIMG_0255 (resized).JPG

    4 weeks later
    #23 1 year ago

    I'm back with a first metal ramp !
    It took me hours and hours, first time I try something like this...
    I'm proud because i'ts a unique ramp, made by myself, no Bally or Stern have this particular shape...
    But the result is... Average. Maybe I can enhanced it with sanding and painting.

    IMG_0325_web (resized).jpgIMG_0325_web (resized).jpg

    IMG_0324_web (resized).jpgIMG_0324_web (resized).jpg

    IMG_0323_web (resized).jpgIMG_0323_web (resized).jpg

    IMG_0326_web (resized).jpgIMG_0326_web (resized).jpg

    A friend of mine asked me why I don't maintain the ramp with some 3D print ? (not for working, for the final result)
    Did anyone already tried something like this ? Or similar ?
    ensemble_tiges_flip (resized).JPGensemble_tiges_flip (resized).JPG
    I think the ball will trash the piece apart', but i'm not sure.
    Any suggestion ?

    #24 1 year ago

    I would suggest using solid rubber posts for the posts at drop targets. I have had issues with with the posts with the rubber donuts making the ball fly everywhere. Everything else looks great! How'd you weld the pieces for the ramp?

    #25 1 year ago
    Quoted from leeoneil:

    I'm back with a first metal ramp !
    It took me hours and hours, first time I try something like this...
    I'm proud because i'ts a unique ramp, made by myself, no Bally or Stern have this particular shape...
    But the result is... Average. Maybe I can enhanced it with sanding and painting.
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]
    A friend of mine asked me why I don't maintain the ramp with some 3D print ? (not for working, for the final result)
    Did anyone already tried something like this ? Or similar ?
    [quoted image]
    I think the ball will trash the piece apart', but i'm not sure.
    Any suggestion ?

    The wireramp looks beautiful!
    I have used 3d parts for the ramps on this. They are holding up very well. Printed with petg. And the pieces work better when they are wider. In your picture i think it is to thin, the wire will wiggle itself loose.

    Screenshot_20220620_170032_com.android.gallery3d.jpgScreenshot_20220620_170032_com.android.gallery3d.jpgScreenshot_20220620_170046_com.android.gallery3d.jpgScreenshot_20220620_170046_com.android.gallery3d.jpg
    #26 1 year ago

    I'm not sure of the english word, I think i used the "solder" welding (brasure in french).
    I will keep in mind the solid rubber post ! Thank's !

    The wires are 4mm steel bar.
    Are you sure it's too thin ? I can barely bend them !
    You're 3d parts look promising. They are not trashed by the ball ? (because it look like the ball is touching them).

    #27 1 year ago
    Quoted from leeoneil:

    I'm not sure of the english word, I think i used the "solder" welding (brasure in french).
    I will keep in mind the solid rubber post ! Thank's !
    The wires are 4mm steel bar.
    Are you sure it's too thin ? I can barely bend them !
    You're 3d parts look promising. They are not trashed by the ball ? (because it look like the ball is touching them).

    4mm metal wire is ok. But the 3d printed part needs to be thicker. Mine are 10mm where it touches the metalwire. When the 3d printed parts where 5mm it was a problem. With petg and a tick part everything is ok, no problems yet.

    #28 1 year ago

    Love the wireform - great work!

    #29 1 year ago
    Quoted from leeoneil:

    I'm not sure of the english word, I think i used the "solder" welding (brasure in french).

    It would be what we call "brazing".

    #30 1 year ago

    I made my real first 3D print this weekend.
    I'm still learning and discovering Freecad, not very easy.
    I'm quite please by the result (25 hours of print !!! ) because i'ts matching perfectly the playfield dimensions.

    rxyu (resized).jpgrxyu (resized).jpg

    IMG_0347 (resized).jpgIMG_0347 (resized).jpg

    IMG_0348 (resized).jpgIMG_0348 (resized).jpg

    But I need to redone the thickness of the ramp.
    I think that it will be destroyed easily by the ball (even if I put a metal flap at the entrance).

    What will be a good thickness for a ramp, do you have an idea ? (edges and below)
    I'm printing with PLA.

    #31 1 year ago

    I haven't been this excited about a theme since I saw the Mad Max and Twin Peaks homebrew announcements

    #32 1 year ago
    Quoted from leeoneil:

    I made my real first 3D print this weekend.
    I'm still learning and discovering Freecad, not very easy.
    I'm quite please by the result (25 hours of print !!! ) because i'ts matching perfectly the playfield dimensions.
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]
    But I need to redone the thickness of the ramp.
    I think that it will be destroyed easily by the ball (even if I put a metal flap at the entrance).
    What will be a good thickness for a ramp, do you have an idea ? (edges and below)
    I'm printing with PLA.

    Looks really nice! I have one ramp which just couldn't handle the force. I had to put some sheet metal around the entry walls. The ball would smash against the wall and finally break at the corner. With the metal around it, everything works now and is stable.

    Screenshot_20220627_180718_com.android.gallery3d_edit_632428387214431.jpgScreenshot_20220627_180718_com.android.gallery3d_edit_632428387214431.jpg
    #33 1 year ago

    I've done PLA on mine so far and have had nothing break yet (except one lane guide that was printed to thin). That said, I did mine around 4mm thick. PETG is not super hard to print and does have more strength.

    The one you designed so far looks great.

    #34 1 year ago

    I also try to use petg. It is a lot stronger than pla, and a little bit more bouncy.

    #35 1 year ago

    I am also in the process of reprinting everything in PETG for my playfield.

    #36 1 year ago

    Oh, ok I'll keep that in mind, thank's everyone for the information !
    I have "lot" of PLA to use, i'll do my test with that and reprint everything with PETG if it's not working or breaking.
    Thank's !

    1 week later
    #37 1 year ago

    Slowly progressing, in rythm with my 3D print and my modelization errors !

    I'm trying to modelized a "180°" ramp, like the "D ramp" of Jurassik park or this one from Monte Carlo ->

    IMG_20220423_193611 800 (resized).jpgIMG_20220423_193611 800 (resized).jpg

    Is someone have the dimensions of these kind of ramp please ?
    I tried to print one, but it's huge, too big in the middle of my playfield.

    The eject ramp (2 parts) looking nice now (better than cardboard ).
    cthulhu_eject_ramp (resized).jpgcthulhu_eject_ramp (resized).jpg

    #38 1 year ago

    Looking great so far, can't wait to see more

    #39 1 year ago

    Looking good!

    The montecarlo 180 ramp is:

    76.5mm tall
    34.5mm wide
    the 180 portion is 65mm long with the forks sticking out another 31mm (total length ~96mm).

    Give or take a 1/2 a mm or so on dim's.. but that's the general size.

    1 week later
    #40 1 year ago

    Thank's for the informations !
    I'm slowly progressing, but step by step the playfield start to look good.
    With the information and a new welding approach, I made my "D ramp".

    I tried a new way, a literal translation could be "cored wire welding".
    I'ts arc welding "for dummies".
    Perfect for me !

    I used this kind of welding machine.
    img_0324 (resized).jpgimg_0324 (resized).jpg

    My D ramp is made with a 3D print (flap ramp at the entrance) and some welding parts.
    It's not perfect but it's actually working !

    img_0323 (resized).jpgimg_0323 (resized).jpg

    #41 1 year ago

    Very cool, I like it! I may try this with my wire ramps as well. I think I am going to swap all my 3D printed ramp parts out with aluminum. May still 3D print, but need to get better quality on them.

    #42 1 year ago

    Something eventually I found on my wire forms is that if the ring goes over the track, occasionally, an air ball will land on the track and the ring will trap it there. On my next iteration of my wire forms I reoriented so the rings went under the track and the ball would just roll toward the apron and reenter play.

    2 months later
    #43 1 year ago

    Wich rings are your talking about Cmartin ?

    After a long wait, i'm back on my WIP.
    It took me a loooong time to did some welding for ramp support (lot's of mistake).
    The 2 wire ramps are now well attached.

    IMG_1042 (resized).JPGIMG_1042 (resized).JPG
    #44 1 year ago

    Looking great so far. Wire forms look wonderful

    #45 1 year ago

    Those wire forms are going to be a lot of fun. Regarding an air ball trap, from the photograph, it looks like a airball could get trapped between these rings.

    A3C6F44B-8BA4-4E97-9F40-5DF4276282BC (resized).jpegA3C6F44B-8BA4-4E97-9F40-5DF4276282BC (resized).jpeg
    #46 1 year ago

    Possibly here too.

    8B8814DA-563D-4BAD-AE54-B16A93A65AEB (resized).jpeg8B8814DA-563D-4BAD-AE54-B16A93A65AEB (resized).jpeg
    #47 1 year ago

    Ok, Thank you, I understand now !
    I'll continue filling the playfield, i won't do some changes now, but I keep that in mind. It's easy to add some wire to fill the holes you spot (I can see more of these traps). Thank's for the advice !

    #48 1 year ago

    It was my wife, who always found those ball traps for me. I would have the game all built up and ready for testing and dang, I have to take the glass off when she’s halfway through her first ball.

    2 weeks later
    #49 1 year ago

    Any idea of the style of art you're going for?

    #50 1 year ago

    Yep !
    I hope to work with a friend of mine, who did my pincab art. It will be long (because he don't have a lot of time)
    You can see it here :

    img_5712 (resized).jpgimg_5712 (resized).jpg
    There are 291 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 6.

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