If I remember correct you can just plug in the connectors at the top right of the board as that's where the power enters the board, and all leds should work except one that needs the interlock switch ? Someone will probably correct me if I'm wrong.
And you' can test that yourself before starting to solder on the board..

Correct, (both)

It is possible to connect J101 and test Br1 + Br2 + C5. Only C11 is powered from J102
Picture:

testpoint+led_(resized).png

Personally I have all (or some, your choice) of the connectors on except for J114. That connector is the +5 and +12 volt connector to the CPU and other boards. With that removed you can test all the voltages (assume coin door closed, TZ and later.) After confirmation, I re-connect J114 and do the voltage test again for +5 and +12.

That is correct, and put multimeter in Vdc, readings are approx. like this
TP1 12Vunreg = 14-15 Volt
TP2 5Vdig = 5.0 Volt
TP3 12Vreg = 12.0 Volt
(TP4 ZC = zero crossing: freq. = 100/120 Hz europe/ USA)
TP5 GND = ground
TP6 50V = 70-75 Volt
TP7 20V = 22-25 Volt
TP8 18V = 17-19 Volt

My funhouse is not booting after never having an issue. Just making hissing sound when on. All LED's are lit besides LED3 on powerboard.

Here are my test points.

TP3 11.85
TP2 5.13
TP1 12.79
TP8 18.36
TP6 75.2
TP7 22.2

Any ideas what is wrong?

All fuses good?

Yes, all fuses are good. Posted in another forum that D19 LED is solid, D20 never comes on, and D21 LED is solid. Pulled all cables and turned back on and nothing.

Found some corrosion near some chips and resistors. See the photo. Discussing with Clive and sending it into him for repairs.

IMG_2654 (resized).JPG

Good luck. I would charge you $95/hr + parts and shipping; even with this apparently minor corrosion, it's probably not economically feasible to have it repaired as the repair bill would likely be over $200. What I'm seeing is a minimum of installing 38 copper eyelets as well as performing track repairs, and that's just for the visible damage.

Side note: I never use jumper wires and guarantee this type of work forever as a solid copper eyelet is never going to fail on a board.