(Topic ID: 275387)

Williams Tri Zone Circuit/Solenoid Issue

By Duders

3 years ago



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  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Duders
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    #1 3 years ago

    Weird problem- Kick out, ball return and Z drop target on same circuit often do not respond. Sometimes if I bang on the side of the back box they immediately start working. Have checked switches, wiring, harness plug on driver board and when I have run diagnostics all solenoids fire as expected. One time when I left the ball sit in the kick out hole for about a minute without doing anything else it then all of the sudden kicked out as expected and then everything worked fine for remainder of that game. Next time I started a game, same problem occurred but leaving the ball in the kick out for a couple minutes did not make a difference. Seems to be an inconsistent issue, sometimes working fine, sometimes not working. Any suggestions as to what may be causing this issue or ideas that I might try to resolve this issue? It only happen on the one circuit, all other solenoids on other circuits are working fine.

    #2 3 years ago

    Sounds like you have a flaky connection somewhere if you can “Fonzie” it into working.
    I happen to be working on project Tri Zone at the moment and have the schematics on the bench. Two of those switches share column 4. Maybe try to get the problem to happen with the back box open and see if wiggling the connectors fixes it.

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    #3 3 years ago

    Thank you for your reply. I had thought it had something to do with connections someplace. I also have the schematics but I know nothing about how to read them. lol I will try your suggestion and maybe that will help me figure out where the problem exists. I had run a diagnostic test on the solenoids and they all fired normally. I could also run a diagnostic on the switches too. I know for certain the both the eject and outhole both go out together and possibly the "N" drop target. Again, thank you very much for your reply and suggestion which I will try now.

    #4 3 years ago
    Quoted from Hairball:

    Sounds like you have a flaky connection somewhere if you can “Fonzie” it into working.
    I happen to be working on project Tri Zone at the moment and have the schematics on the bench. Two of those switches share column 4. Maybe try to get the problem to happen with the back box open and see if wiggling the connectors fixes it.[quoted image]

    Thank you so much for your suggestion!! I was able to trace the problem to the switch column drive on the Driver Board. Not quite sure how to permanently repair it but when the eject and out hole do not work, I just barely touch the wires going into the plug that goes into the board and that immediately fixes the problem. I will try maybe putting black tape on the wire holding them a little tighter to the plug. But thank you again because I was thinking I might have to either purchase another driver board or send my board to someone who repairs them. You saved me a bunch of money!!

    #5 3 years ago

    You'll need to find the correct size pins, buy the correct repinning tool and repin the connectors. You can read about "general" connector info here
    http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

    Gottlieb System 1 are a different system than what you're dealing with but a good read none the less.
    http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/#connect

    You can buy the connector pins and tools here
    https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp

    #6 3 years ago

    Happy to help!

    If you haven’t done so already, you should read through this guide:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

    At a minimum, install the bridge rectifier fuses (the “fireproofing” part of the guide).

    Also some great info in general pinball electronics:

    http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/index.htm#solder

    #7 3 years ago
    Quoted from Duders:

    I just barely touch the wires going into the plug that goes into the board and that immediately fixes the problem. I will try maybe putting black tape on the wire holding them a little tighter to the plug.

    Likely the back of the board just needs the header pins soldered, and possibly replacing the pins in that connector - but the connector pins always need resoldering on this era of wms game. It's a relatively simple fix.

    Don't do the electrical tape, it's one thing if you're getting a game going for a route/party to put a temporary 'fix' like that in place, but you're not fixing the core issue.

    #8 3 years ago
    Quoted from Hairball:

    Happy to help!
    If you haven’t done so already, you should read through this guide:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6
    At a minimum, install the bridge rectifier fuses (the “fireproofing” part of the guide).
    Also some great info in general pinball electronics:
    http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/index.htm#solder

    Thank you for the reply and the links to some great and helpful information!!

    #9 3 years ago
    Quoted from slochar:

    Likely the back of the board just needs the header pins soldered, and possibly replacing the pins in that connector - but the connector pins always need resoldering on this era of wms game. It's a relatively simple fix.
    Don't do the electrical tape, it's one thing if you're getting a game going for a route/party to put a temporary 'fix' like that in place, but you're not fixing the core issue.

    It appears that I will need to do some work to the connector pins. I've gotten good advice and help from you and the other replies. Thank you very much!!

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