(Topic ID: 264568)

Williams Toledo no double bonus scoring

By lpnsocal

4 years ago


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  • 16 posts
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  • Latest reply 4 years ago by lpnsocal
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Impulse A (resized).jpg
bonus relay OW (resized).jpg
Ball Index Grey-B-Y (resized).jpg
Toledo Score Motor switches (resized).jpg
Toledo Bonus 2 (resized).jpg
Toledo Double Bonus (resized).jpg
#1 4 years ago

Well here I am Ca and Gov Newsome has put everybody under house arrest, so without getting into my usual rant about that clown in Sacramento, I thought I'd make some lemonade with these lemons!

I've been coerced by our local VFW to work on a Toledo(and eventually a Jubilee) that was donated to them. The machine was pretty rough but showed signs of life and had all it's components, so I agreed to spend an inordinate amount of time to tune up this pig and give it a nice shade of lipstick. After 12 hours, here I am in the home stretch. The last issue I'm faced with has to do with the double bonus scoring, which is offered to the player after A & B targets have been hit. I get regular bonus scoring thru the now beautifully functioning Bonus Unit stepper but add that double bonus lite(via A & B) and stepper steps down the bonus value(5 times for 5000 only). To be clear there's to reel scoring and no chimes either. A guess says the 1000 relay isn't firing when I get double bonus.

I've been trying to use the schematic I found here on Pinside and attached, but my novice skills along with limited info as to all the purposes of the relay affected leaf switches has got me humbly here. Any help/ education would be greatly appreciated.

I tried to upload the schematic I poached from the site but kept getting errors. Here is the Pinside link to the post with schematic.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/toledo-schematic#post-4534552

#2 4 years ago

Here's how I think the Bonus count works:
Toledo Double Bonus (resized).jpgToledo Double Bonus (resized).jpg
The upper circuit shows the Bonus Unit Reset solenoid which steps down the Bonus Unit as the Bonus is counted. For a single Bonus value the Score Motor turns (not shown), the Bonus relay switch on the left closes and the Score Motor IMP-B closes 5 times per Score Motor cycle so the Bonus Unit steps down 5 times per Score Motor cycle (1/2 turn or 180 degrees). If either the A or B relay switches in the red box close nothing changes, the IMP-B switch still drives the Bonus Reset solenoid.

When both A and B relays fire both of the switches in the red box toggle which cuts the Score Motor IMP-5 switch out of the circuit and replaces it with two other Score Motor switches (2A & 5B) in parallel. Those switches each only close once per cycle so the Bonus Unit only takes 2 steps per Score Motor cycle. So during a Double Bonus Count the Bonus counts at less than half the speed as a normal Bonus Count.

The lower circuit shows a very similar arrangement for the 1000 point relay. Normally the pulses sent to the 1000 point relay for a Bonus Count come from the Score Motor IMP-A switch which sends 5 pulses per cycle to the 1000 point relay which scores 5000 points per Score Motor cycle.

When the A and B relays both fire their switches in the red box replace the IMP-A switch with four other Score Motor switches that deliver 4 pulses per cycle to the 1000 point relay. So while the Bonus Unit takes 2 steps the 1000 point relay fires 4 times - double bonus.

If your Bonus Unit steps down slower during a Double Bonus than it does during a regular bonus it's circuit is working as expected. If the 1000 point relay isn't firing at all during a Double Bonus chances are that one of the normally open switches in the red box isn't closing.

/Mark

#3 4 years ago

Mark,
Thank You for your input and schematic drawings. I had thought it a possibility that the increase in 1000 relay firing was due to a necessary change/addition of cam switches during the cycle, but didn't know how to get there via the schematic. Your red circles and explanation are helpful.

If I understand correctly, the schematic shows the switches with the A & B relays not activated, and upon that happening, those switches break and the new switch makes(green circles.) This new circuit in Double bonus should activate the 4 cam switches(in yellow) to fire the 1000 relay during the score motor cycle.

I have cleaned and checked the A & B relay switch stacks and will do so again. I'd like to check the continuity from the relay to the score motor can you share the wire color, switch locations and cam #?

Thx again,
Larry

Toledo Bonus 2 (resized).jpgToledo Bonus 2 (resized).jpg
#4 4 years ago
Quoted from lpnsocal:

If I understand correctly, the schematic shows the switches with the A & B relays not activated,

Yes, schematics are usually drawn to represent the state of the game after reset, so neither A nor B relay would be active. Once they activate, those Make/Break switches flip to break the original circuits and complete the circuits you highlighted.

Quoted from lpnsocal:

I'd like to check the continuity from the relay to the score motor can you share the wire color, switch locations and cam #?

I'd recommend measuring the resistance across the switch(es) rather than just continuity. See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fan-tas-tic-spinner-won-t-stop#post-5531247 for more detail.

The schematic shows you wire colors, and where the Score Motor switches are on the Score Motor switch stacks:
Toledo Score Motor switches (resized).jpgToledo Score Motor switches (resized).jpg

#5 4 years ago

Still trying to get a handle on this issue. I first tested continuity from what I think to be the beginning of the "new" circuit created by the double bonus (A & B targets via relays) but actually starting on the Bonus Relay switch(OW wire) to 3D, 4A on score motor. Sadly, I had continuity from Bonus Relay to Score motor switch stacks. So then I began the ohm testing thru the route, Bonus Relay switch measured .07ohm. Then leaving the probe connected on the Bonus Relay I checked the 1st switch(OW) on A relay and had .07, then thru the jumper to B relay into Grey/W was .07ohm and by the time I got the Jones connector it was the same. With the 1st probe still on Bonus Relay OW and measuring to the score motor, resistance jumped to almost 8.0 ohms. I admit a minor celebration occurred as I thought I had a bad connector/connection and I did. So I cleaned it up and crimped the female side and restested. A solid .07 seemed like my troubles would soon be over...... Need I say, they were not. I took off all 5 switch stacks that could pulse the 1000 relay and cleaned and checked the gaps. ( I wish I knew how to be able to spin the cams without the motor.) I did get a .04ohm across the jumpers from index cam stack to impulse. I Retested the Double Bonus scoring after the motor stack switch cleaning and my problem still exists. I am at a loss as I think I checked everything in the Double Bonus circuit and the Bonus circuit works fine(cept for note below). I've walked away from it a couple of times to find a fresh set of eyes/perspective and still draw a blank.(Except for the fact I'm glad I don't do this for a living!)

What am I missing...?

As a side note, at certain times while I'm testing the bonus or double bonus scoring, the machine will advance the credit reel and fire the knocker at nowhere near replay score.

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from lpnsocal:

I wish I knew how to be able to spin the cams without the motor.

Just unplug the game and turn the motor cams by hand. You should be able to clip your meter to the O-W-2 wire on the Bonus Relay switch and to the GREY-Y-BR-3 wire on the Ball Index relay switch and do some experiments with the meter there.

- First turn the Score Motor cams and convince yourself that you see the resistance drop every time the Impulse cam switch stack is activated.
- Next leave the Score Motor in a position where the #1 cam switch stack is active and manually activate the A and B relays. You should see the resistance drop just as it did through the Impulse cam switch.
- Repeat for the other three Score Motor switches.

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from MarkG:

- First turn the Score Motor cams and convince yourself that you see the resistance drop every time the Impulse cam switch stack is activated.

Ball Index Grey-B-Y (resized).jpgBall Index Grey-B-Y (resized).jpgbonus relay OW (resized).jpgbonus relay OW (resized).jpg

, Alligator clipped to the appropriate switches(solder tabs) [email protected]) and slowly turned the motor cams. No change occurred, even As cams were turned 360'. Hence I could not convince myself that a resistance drop was occurring.
When A & B relays were reset individually and combined, resistance measured OL. When the cams were rotated 360' again, resistance .08ohm. I did find a plastic switch stack trolley(?) to have a worn groove from the impulse cam and swapped it out.

Quoted from MarkG:

- Next leave the Score Motor in a position where the #1 cam switch stack is active and manually activate the A and B relays. You should see the resistance drop just as it did through the Impulse cam switch.
- Repeat for the other three Score Motor switches.

For all the individual switch stacks checked in active position thru tripped A & B relays there was the .08ohm and OL when A & B were reset.

Note: The grey colored wires enter the cams at #1A and the impulse A cams, jumpers go between others.

Frustrated with results I didn't like(and no change in double bonus scoring), I elected to clean and check gaps in all the switch stacks. Lots of pitting on a 93k play machine. When I was done each switch was measuring .01 to .03 ohms and opened and closed as cam directed. Hopeful this changed something. I tested again and same results with the D Bonus scoring, but now along with a newly presented problem!! Player 1 10pt reel is having a reset fit, sounds like score reel coil is locked on. no other reel malfunction, and Player 2 no issues.

A little time off from D Bonus scoring should help my frustration. So I've spent some quality time on my backbox adventure to find various loose wires/cold solder joints, wondering how some of them even were resetting! I decided to go thru every reel switch and wire and verify connection with good continuity. I even replaced the tab leaf on end of stroke switch( problem 10pt reel) as it had a crap slide on connector loosely slid over the tab which was half cracked off from the leaf. All finished with the backbox reel tune up, tested again to find problem still exists on the damn Player 1, 10pt. Since it doesn't happen on Player 2, I thought issue would be with the player unit? But it "was" working fine ,I had already rebuilt it,etc. This new problem only showed up after the score motor switch stacks tune up.

I've stepped away from the machine again, waiting for an Aha moment or any Pearls of Wisdom that may head my way.

My continued thanks for any and all direction!

#8 4 years ago

Hallelujah...! The sticky Player 1, 10pt reel somehow fixed itself(yea right) I re-gapped all the 10pt reel switches on P1 and while I was watching the difference in backbox action between P1 and P2(that had no issue) while my wife was hitting the 10 pt rollover I noticed the match unit sticking as the P1 reel not advancing, and then just like that..., everything started to just work as it should! The gremlin left the building and both P1 and P2 10pt reels acted as they should.

However, my D bonus scoring issue still exists. But at least it's it's the original issue!.

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from lpnsocal:

Alligator clipped to the appropriate switches(solder tabs) [email protected]) and slowly turned the motor cams. No change occurred, even As cams were turned 360'. Hence I could not convince myself that a resistance drop was occurring.
When A & B relays were reset individually and combined, resistance measured OL. When the cams were rotated 360' again, resistance .08ohm.

I'm having a hard time understanding what you did here. If you unplug the game and clip your meter probes to the solder lugs on the Score Motor Impulse-A switch (normally open switch at the bottom of the switch stack with a green wire on one side, grey-yellow-brown wire on the other side) do you see the resistance change as you slowly turn the motor cams?

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from MarkG:

Just unplug the game and turn the motor cams by hand. You should be able to clip your meter to the O-W-2 wire on the Bonus Relay switch and to the GREY-Y-BR-3 wire on the Ball Index relay switch and do some experiments with the meter there.

Sorry for the confusion, my photos are of the two relays I clipped from your previous instruction. The other half of the leaf switch on Ball index is the Br-Y which I think heads up to the 1000 pt relay. My pathetic dialogue was of the various instructed tests with those relay switches clipped.

Quoted from MarkG:

I'm having a hard time understanding what you did here. If you unplug the game and clip your meter probes to the solder lugs on the Score Motor Impulse-A switch (normally open switch at the bottom of the switch stack with a green wire on one side, grey-yellow-brown wire on the other side) do you see the resistance change as you slowly turn the motor cams?

The two wires for Impulse A are furthest from each other on my finger in pic, one being the brown jumper from another switch stack(Grey-Y-Br?) and the other being a Greenish wire were tested. Results were resistance went from OL to .04 ohm as the cam activated the stack.

Impulse A (resized).jpgImpulse A (resized).jpg
#11 4 years ago
Quoted from lpnsocal:

Results were resistance went from OL to .04 ohm as the cam activated the stack.

That's the behavior I'm looking for. The resistance changes from OL (essentially open circuit) to less than an ohm as the switch closes and opens. You should be able to see the same behavior in the other four Score Motor switches in the yellow box in reply #3.

If those four switches test good individually move one meter probe to include a 2nd switch in the test, like the B relay Make/Break switch for example, and repeat the tests. When both switches are closed you should see the resistance drop to nearly the same value. If that looks good, move one probe out to include an additional switch like the A relay Make/Break switch and repeat the tests. Eventually you'll probably include between your probes a switch or wire or solder tab that isn't conducting as it should and you won't be able to get the resistance to drop to less than an ohm, or at all. That will mean that the problem is between your probes and likely the last thing to be included in the tests.

#12 4 years ago

Well the Impulse Cam is the only one that had a change in the resistance. The 3 others all showed .05 regardless of their Cam action.

I'm not sure if these are all joined with jumpers(kinda looks that way in the mess), but if they are and there's a short in one, all would show short(or mirrored resistance measure?) I did make sure all lugs and wires were not in contact with anything. Possible short in one of the stacks?

#13 4 years ago

Yes, since they're wired in parallel (they all connect the same two wires) if one of them is closed they all will test closed since the meter can't isolate one from the next. If you block all four switches with bits of paper is the short still there?

If you desolder one wire from each switch that would isolate them and allow you to test them individually. That might identify which switch is shorted.

#14 4 years ago

Well I'm doing little happy dance, and without going into my tedious summation of action(good and bad), I will say that we now have double bonus scoring!

The gist of the problem was my mistake of not testing the switches in stack operation with them set on the cams. Turns out that the switch trolley at the bottom of the stack on Cam 4 was not dropping all the way into the notch and therefore not opening 4A. So me visually checking gaps and action with stack removed using my finger, I had no way of knowing that the trolley was not correctly adjusted, which was critical for 4A as it was closed all the time and never letting a pulse to the 1000pt thru this and the other jumped switches as they rode their own Cams. I did have to cut 3 or 4 jumpers to finally finally find Cam 4A was my culprit.

Whereas, I am stoked to have that problem solved, I can't turn this machine back over to the VFW without me dealing with hopefully, the last 2 issues.
I'm not sure if I should start a new post, modify the name of this one or?

I've still got the credit unit occasionally stepping up/with knocker while the bonus is counting down, at least one on occasion 2 steps. When I unplug all the high score adjustment plugs and/or the match unit on/off, it doesn't seem to do it.

The other issue is if ball enters the top saucer and it is lit for "advance bonus"(alternates with "spots number" on target bank thru change relays 1 & 2 , I think?), it will advance bonus 3000(3 steps). Maybe this is normal but it seems odd when all other advance bonus switches step it once.

Mark I appreciate your tutelage thru all this, and would ask your advice on how to proceed with my unfinished repairs(new post or ?....)

Thanks again,
Larry

#15 4 years ago

I'd recommend starting a new topic. It'll get more eyes on it.

#16 4 years ago

Mark, since I know you were losing sleep over one the problems I mentioned, I wanted to share that the saucer at top of PF that was advancing the bonus 3000 when lit is actually set to advance it 2 or 3000 via a plug under the PF. I Found it watching a game play on YouTube. So yippee one less issue!

Thanks again Mark, your expertise and patience were the key to my success.

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