(Topic ID: 101744)

Williams system 6 - mpu power consumption

By gorgarspeaks

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 26 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by thedefog
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

#1 9 years ago

Two weeks ago I started a thread, but I have learned so much since that I realise that my subject and description description is worth nothing. So I hope it is acceptable that I start a new thread.
My Gorgar MPU board is bad.
I have read:
Vids bulletproofing guide
Andres system 6 guide
Marks guide
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#System_6_MPU_Board_Issues

I have acces to another Gorgar, so I know that everything in the machine works with another MPU board. I also know that I have working ROMs NOW.

Status now is still that both LEDS light up and stay on.
I found and corrected these mistakes:
R33 - dead short - changed
R34 slightly discolored - mesaured fine, but i changed anyway.
C33 slightly discolored - changed
C34 slightly discolored - changed

IC-sockets - gold plated - changed

All sockeded ICs testet (including 40 pin CPU) in other mpu board - working fine except the 3 GAME ROMS (I did not test these individually)
Bought EPROM burned with gorgar image from ipdb.org
Bought EPROM burned with "Andre Boot 2.0" image
Both new EPROMs work in "my" working MPU

I tested all resistors and both resistor pacs inBCD outputs and Strobe outputs.

I do not have a DSR meter only a DMM - so I have only tested capasitors for visual damage and shorts - I have neither.

My defective MPU board, with no socked ICs, except "Andre Boot 2.0" in socket 14, original working RAM IC in 13 and the original CPU 40 pin in IC 1, behaves just like before I started. Both LEDS light up and stay on.

In a workbench (made from PC PSU) with working 5V&12V (tested) i see a comparatible large voltage drop when I connect the board.

These are my voltages in workbench:

TP1 says 11,25V (should be 12V and at least 11,5)
TP2 3,04V (3,68 in my working Gorgar)
TP3 0,05V (0,32 in my working Gorgar with driver board detached, 3,75 with driver board attached)
TP4 0,0V (0,2 in my working Gorgar with driver board detached, 4,75 with driver board attached)
TP5 4,28V (4,5 in my working Gorgar with driver board detached, 4,6 with driver board attached)
TP6 1,97V (2,37 in my working Gorgar with driver board detached, 2,31 with driver board attached)
TP7 3,93V (4,69 in my working Gorgar with driver board detached, 4,69 with driver board attached)
TP8 3,98V (4,65 in my working Gorgar with driver board detached, 4,69 with driver board attached)
TP9 4,06V (4,78 in my working Gorgar with driver board detached, 4,79 with driver board attached)
TP10 0V (0 ohm resistance from ground)

I did not make the LED test board yet, but will as soon my power is high enough for logic to work.

1) Am I right in assuming that I should not expect any kind of results from Test Rom when voltages are that low?
2) Am I right in assuming that I should not expect any kind of logic probing results when voltages are that low?
3) Am I right in assuming that I still have to find a reason for a large power consumption, before I can do anything else?
4) Is it correct that it is always a good idea to replace original electrolytic capacitors c23? I do not have DSR-meter.
5) Should Tantalum resistors c27 & C31 also be changed?

#2 9 years ago

Don't know if it was a typo but Andres ROM goes in IC17 not 14.

You really could us a logic probe at this point.

viperrwk

#3 9 years ago

Yes, Andre test rom goes in IC17.

Won't boot in IC14.

#4 9 years ago

I think that's good idea to measure current consumption on both boards (I have "calibrated" 0,1 ohm resistor to attach
in series with supply - 100mV ON resistor means 1A consumption )
This method clarified "bad contact / hi current" question

Greetings from Croatia

(btw... clear and precise form of the definition of the problem - GREAT !! )

#5 9 years ago

>viperrwk
No it was not a typo - I actually put it in IC 14 - will try IC17 this afternoon. Thank you!

>cro_pinman
Thank you but I am not sure i understand completely:
I believe you want me to :
1) put the board on the bench, attach ground
2) Attach +5V through a 0,1 ohm resistor?????
3) Measure voltage on both sides of the resistor?

A) Is this correct?
B) What information will the results give?

#6 9 years ago

B)........the voltage drop over the resistor tells you something about the power consumption.....U = I * R, P = I^2 * R, P = U^2 / R

#7 9 years ago

Measure the voltage across the resistor (one probe on each side of the resistor).

I(current) = E(voltage) / R(resistance)

So to calculate the current consumed by your board, measure the voltage drop across the 0.1 ohm resistor and divide by 0.1. MarAlb is suggesting a 0.1 ohm resistor so you can do the math in your head.

The example he gave is 100mv (0.1 V)

0.1 volts / 0.1ohms = 1 amp

So in this example, .1 volts across a .1 ohm resistor = 1 amp of current.

If you measure a .55 volt drop across the resistor, you have 5.5 amp draw, etc... Using a .1 ohm resistor makes the math as simple as moving the decimal one position to the right.

You will need a high wattage resistor to use this method (5W minimum, 10 watts would be better). If you think there is a short on the board, a 5W or even the 10W resistor may get quite hot so only use the resistor test method for a short time until you know how hot it will get...

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Measure the voltage across the resistor (one probe on each side of the resistor).
I(current) = E(voltage) / R(resistance)
So to calculate the current consumed by your board, measure the voltage drop across the 0.1 ohm resistor and divide by 0.1. MarAlb is suggesting a 0.1 ohm resistor so you can do the math in your head.
The example he gave is 100mv (0.1 V)
0.1 volts / 0.1ohms = 1 amp
So in this example, .1 volts across a .1 ohm resistor = 1 amp of current.
If you measure a .55 volt drop across the resistor, you have 5.5 amp draw, etc... Using a .1 ohm resistor makes the math as simple as moving the decimal one position to the right.

Yes, that's what I wanted to say.

#9 9 years ago

Havent had time yet - I have both 5w and 10w resistors - will problbly have time in the weekend thank you all!

#10 9 years ago

Unfortunately changing Leons to IC17 changed nothing: 2 lit LEDs.

PSU supplies 5,04V with nothing attached except my multimeter.
With MPU board attached voltage is 4,12V

Resistor-test:
Using 5W 27ohm resistor:
Voltage across the resistor (one probe on each side of the resistor): 3,53V
Voltage measured on MPU board : 1,24V (dont know if this gives further information.)

3,53V / 27 ohms = 0,130 amp
P = 3,53^2 / 27 ohm = 0,4615

Is that correct and what does it tell me?

#11 9 years ago

We did not understand !! You need resistor value 0,1 OHM (not 27 ohm ) to measure current, or if you haven't
0,1 ohm resistor you can measure current with DMM in series directly (with proper DMM setup )

#12 9 years ago

I do not have a 0,1 ohm resistor. The sentence "suggesting a 0.1 ohm resistor so you can do the math in your head." made me believe that I could use another resistor value, but then I would not be able to do the math in my head.

When I measure current with DMM in series directly with the MPU board, I get 5.4 in the 200m position.

#13 9 years ago

OP

The power consumption of the MPU isn't that relevant. The fact is that without the MPU connected you have good 5 but with it connected only 4.12v which is not high enough for the board to boot.

There is either a problem on the power supply board which means it is failing under load or there is an issue with the MPU board with the 5v shorting to ground somewhere.

1) Do you have some other game you can test the power supply board in?
2) Do any of the chips on the MPU board feel warm when connected to the power supply board?

Andy

#14 9 years ago

The problem with using a 27 ohm resistor is that the voltage drop is too high. The 3.53 volts you measured across the resistor means the board is only getting 1.47 volts (5v-3.53v=1.47V to the board). None of the chips on that board are running (consuming power) at 1.47V.

The reason you use a .1 ohm resistor is to make the voltage drop as small as possible (and to make the math easy! )

#15 9 years ago

Andy>> 1) Yes I have acces to a working Gorgar, and everything works in both Gorgars with the MPU board from one of them, and naither of them work with the other MPU board.
Also the bad MPU board is not working on my test bench and my working mpu board boots fine at the workbench.
so I know the problem is on the MPU board.

>There is either a problem on the power supply board which means it is failing under load or there is an issue with >the MPU board with the 5v shorting to ground somewhere.
I feel confident from the test mentioned above that my PSU board is not to blame. Which brings me back to the short-theory.

2) None of the chips (or any other components) on the MPU board feel warm when connected to the power supply board or to workbench.

With DMM I find no dead shorts except the ones mentioned, which I fixed.

I still have the feeling that these questions are important:
3) Am I right in assuming that I still have to find a reason for a large power consumption, before I can do anything else?
4) Is it correct that it is always a good idea to replace original electrolytic capacitors c23? I do not have DSR-meter.
5) Should Tantalum resistors c27 & C31 also be changed?

I have a replacement c23 at hand, and i might also have the tantalums.

Schwaggs>Thanks for the explanation. I will purchase a resistor - meanwhile - I feel that the tests performed shows that the problem is within tke MPU board and that the MPU board consumes too much power. I do not understand what extra information it will give to know how much to much - will this help me find the failing component(s).

#16 9 years ago

OK so the power supply board is good

#17 9 years ago

Stupid tablet keeps truncating my reply

#18 9 years ago

Look forward to see what got truncated - hope you have the patience to write it again!

#19 9 years ago

Andy send the message personally now, but I will reply to all so everyone can help.
I have testet all removable chips/ICs in my working machine. No shorts in them.
No ICs (or other components) get hot even after long power on.

I am inclined to change the electrolytic capasitor as these to my knowledge are the only components sure tu fail over time.

other suggestions?

#20 9 years ago

Did you check J2 connector (power in) on CPU board (solder )

#21 9 years ago

You mean the electrolytic at C23 on the MPU board? Probably not the problem unless it is visually damaged. I used to change them as a matter of course but it usually didn't make a difference and now test all caps before changing them. And C27/C31 are tantalum caps that also rarely fail.

You should carefully inspect the MPU board to see if any prior work was done. If there was (likely given how old the machine is - getting harder and harder to find a machine that hasn't been molested somehow), it's possible that some damage was done which could be causing a short.

It's also possible that when you replaced ROM sockets you bridged two leads on the ROMs which would lock the board up as well. Double and triple and quadruple check your work. I've made boneheaded mistakes that I didn't think possible and until the fifth or sixth time I've gone back to check wouldn't of otherwise found.

Unless you have at least a logic probe, further troubleshooting will be very difficult.

viperrwk

#22 9 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

inspect the MPU board to see if any prior work was done.

+1

Quoted from gorgarspeaks:

When I measure current with DMM in series directly with the MPU board, I get 5.4 in the 200m position.

That's VERY strange !!!
Especially in "accordance" with voltage drop.... weird (have you another DMM to check this measurement ? )

#23 9 years ago

I reflew j2 before enything else.
No components look damaged, no components seem to have been changed (except the ones I changed myself - as mentioned above).
I checked my new sockets for shorts (once) there was none. In 1 place there was excatly 1K ohm resistance to neighboring pin - no visible soldering mistakes here - I presume normal - but will check on the working MPU.

I will borrow another DMM to doublecheck

I have ordered a logic probe - but do not have one yet.

I will check my sockets again as suggested - maybe even 2-3 times.

Am I right in assuming that resistance of 1K can not be a short I made - if I made a short - resistance would be lower than that right?

Am I right in assuming that the voltage consumtion could be found by finding somewhere that has lower resistance in the broken board than the working one? If so - how much lower?

#24 9 years ago

1k resistance would not indicate a short, that is correct. A few ohms resistance in the case of a microscopic bridge is normal (like 3-4 ohms), but it is never as high as 1k. You can measure resistance between your gnd and +5v rail pins on an MPU and it could be lower than that. Then again, you are not directly measuring a resistor when you do that, and there are a number of decoupling capacitors and voltage dividers in the circuit that make that reading sort of pointless, unless it is a very low ohm rating, then you know you've got a short.

#25 9 years ago

Resistance between my gnd and +5v rail pins on the MPU is 755 ohm.

#26 9 years ago
Quoted from gorgarspeaks:

Resistance between my gnd and +5v rail pins on the MPU is 755 ohm.

That sound correct.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Newcastle, OK
$ 859.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
 
From: $ 9.00
$ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
 
From: $ 11.00
$ 65.00
Boards
Pinball Haus
 
$ 170.00
Displays
Digipinball Shop
 
2,900 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Franklin, VA
$ 11.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 40.00
Gameroom - Decorations
The Flipper Room
 
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 42.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
From: $ 90.00
Tools
Pincoder Store
 
$ 1.49
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
 

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-system-6-mpu-power-consumption and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.