(Topic ID: 243703)

Williams System 6 GI voltage


By waffen_spain

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 25 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by Schwaggs
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 4 months ago

Hi folks!

Im bringing back to life a lovely Time Warp, after solving the typical corrosion at MPU, pin now works great.

Im about to replace GI bulbs with led, but after burning my fingers with a red hot bulb, Ive noticed GI voltage is over 8 volts...

Since It my firts time with a sys6 PS, im asking for your infinite knowledge, do I have a PS problem here?

Bulbs and leds gets lava hot, but bulbs still work after decades....

#2 4 months ago

44 Bulbs get very hot. You can see debades of warped plastics because of this. 47s will reduce the heat a bit and draw less power.

As far as the voltage is concerned there is nothing between the transformer and the lamps but fuses and sockets. Test resistance on the fuse in the holder from one side to the other on the solder tabs. This should be close to 0 but can get higher if the fuse and the clip are tarnished. A hint that this could be an issue would be warm or hot fuse clips.

Then pull the fuses and measure across the fuse clips yellow to yellow. These fuse clips are connected to 17 and 19 on the transformer. This is probably the bottom fuse clip to the one next to it. Make sure DMM is on AC and you should expect 6.3VAC. Might be a little higher without any load. If it's too high it could be the transformer. Check to see if it looks melted or toasty at all. The test from 17 to 19 on the transformer. If you get the correct reading there then you know the problem exists between the transformer and the fuses.

Finally see if there is an inline connector on the GI lines from the transformer to the fuse and make sure those pins don't look tarnished.

It would be good to check another pin of this era to see what the output on the GI line is there

#3 4 months ago

GI should be 6.3VAC.

Take out the GI fuses, then measure the voltage going into them from the transformer, see if it's high there. Might be a short on the PF

#4 4 months ago

Thanks for the ultrafast assistance!

Since the fuses are not marked, and the manual at ipdb says nothing about fuses, Ive disconnected all of them, but GI stays on

Transformer is noisy and vibrates...

As you can see al fuses are off but gi works

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#5 4 months ago

Playfield GI is probably the non-fuse all the way to the left and the one to the right of it is backbox. Measure across the bottom of both of those

EDIT: Figure out which the 2 big yellow wires from the transformer go and measure across those 2

#6 4 months ago

Fuse mistery solved.

Some nice guy connected the gi wire to the wires that goes to the fuse, so you have a nice fuse that does nothing.

Im sure he did that """fix""" cos gi fuse keeps blowing.

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#7 4 months ago

Testing is done.

Yellow wire from transfo to yellow at fuse holder 8.5v

Yellow wire from transfo to yellow wire at the no fused connector 8.5v

#8 4 months ago
Quoted from waffen_spain:

Testing is done.
Yellow wire from transfo to yellow at fuse holder 8.5v
Yellow wire from transfo to yellow wire at the no fused connector 8.5v

Is the transformer hi-tapped?

#9 4 months ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

Is the transformer hi-tapped?

Im not sure what means "hi.tapped"

#10 4 months ago
Quoted from waffen_spain:

Im not sure what means "hi.tapped"

On the transformer, see if it's set to 210 or 235 VAC

#11 4 months ago

On a system 6 I think you'll need to look at the 6 wire plug going from the cabinet into the transformer. Upload a picture and we can try to decipher which way it's jumpered

#12 4 months ago

Also put in fuses in line with the AC connection for the bridge rectifiers in the back box (just under the power supply).
You can also use a Bridge Board (http://home.kpn.nl/p.koch3/) and get rid of that BIG capacitor.
Just do some reading on my website link.

Peter

#13 4 months ago

On system 3-6 you move wires on the transformer to deal with various voltage conditions. Tell us which terminals the various colored wires are connected to which transformer terminals.

http://firepowerpinball.com/downloads/PowerWiring.pdf

#14 4 months ago

An easy way to check for high tap is measure voltage at the coils. It will be high too. Not definitive but a good clue if it is

#15 4 months ago

If it's not hi-tapped I wonder about putting a high wattage resistor on the lines to bring the voltage down

#16 4 months ago

Hi! Long weekend far away from my pins

About the Transformer, the jumpers are shown in the photo, not sure if its set to 220, I think It is...
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#17 4 months ago

I think that is 220... According to the schematics 117 should have two jumper wires in that plug in addition to the two wires coming in from the bottom, and the 220 configuration uses just one jumper.

#18 4 months ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Also put in fuses in line with the AC connection for the bridge rectifiers in the back box (just under the power supply).
You can also use a Bridge Board (http://home.kpn.nl/p.koch3/) and get rid of that BIG capacitor.
Just do some reading on my website link.
Peter

Man that is some serious tutorial, Im going to check It and mod my pin, thanks for sharing!

#19 4 months ago

Agree, that looks like 220V wiring.

However, to know if your setup is high-tapped, you need to see which terminals those wires are soldered onto the transformer.

#20 4 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Agree, that looks like 220V wiring.
However, to know if your setup is high-tapped, you need to see which terminals those wires are soldered onto the transformer.

You think that someone messed with the factory wiring on the transformer? Why would anyone do that?

#21 4 months ago
Quoted from zacaj:

You think that someone messed with the factory wiring on the transformer? Why would anyone do that?

If you have a machine in an area with low voltage, bad wiring, etc, the performance of the pops can be decreased, and could cause resets, etc. You can change the wiring to bump up the voltages ~10% to bring back performance. Seeing as his voltages are high, it makes sense to see if someone high-tapped the transformer.

#22 4 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

If you have a machine in an area with low voltage, bad wiring, etc, the performance of the pops can be decreased, and could cause resets, etc. You can change the wiring to bump up the voltages ~10% to bring back performance. Seeing as his voltages are high, it makes sense to see if someone high-tapped the transformer.

Ahh, I see it now. Note #4 on the schematic

#23 4 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Agree, that looks like 220V wiring.
However, to know if your setup is high-tapped, you need to see which terminals those wires are soldered onto the transformer.

Somebody has been here, I see solder on the transfo.

Looks like wiring needs to be resoldered, but I dont know if its correct.
15590715016559121492584685355770 (resized).jpg

Comparing the wiring with a pic Ive found from a sys6, looks like I need to change the wiring.

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#24 4 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

If you have a machine in an area with low voltage, bad wiring, etc, the performance of the pops can be decreased, and could cause resets, etc. You can change the wiring to bump up the voltages ~10% to bring back performance. Seeing as his voltages are high, it makes sense to see if someone high-tapped the transformer.

Problem solved, moved brown-red wires from 6 to 8, and black-yellow from 2-3 to 4 at the transfo input.

Now I have 6.8 to 7 volts at bulbs, I have to test coils but looks ok.

Thank you all guys!!

#25 4 months ago
Quoted from waffen_spain:

Problem solved, moved brown-red wires from 6 to 8, and black-yellow from 2-3 to 4 at the transfo input.
Now I have 6.8 to 7 volts at bulbs, I have to test coils but looks ok.
Thank you all guys!!

Sweet! Congrats on the fix!

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