(Topic ID: 213239)

williams system 6 (firepower) saveable?

By oilspot

6 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by oilspot
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#1 6 years ago

I just dragged home another project, Firepower. It was very cheap, and very rough. It has lichens growing on too of the backbox and the whole thing smells like mushrooms. But the playfield is in pretty good shape, and it shows signs of life. The first thing I did was pull the boards out and clean them with spray eelectronics cleaner and a stiff bristle brush. Cleaned moles pins with magic eraser, replaced some blown fuses and put it all back together and powered it up. The MPU LEDs flashed and went out and not much else. I did get the credit/match display to show a number which could be advanced with the button inside the coin door. Then it all went downhill. I decided to reset some chips to see if I could get some more progress and not having the right tools I ended up breaking a pin off a ROM. Today I soldered the pin back on but the LEDs on the MPU still don't behave as they did before, nothing on the displays now. However, the sound now works! Sometimes when I hit the switch, I hear a related click and the "Firepower" speech and another sound plays. Pressing the test switch on the sound board plays a library of sounds.
One odd thing is I'm getting 40-42v at the 28v fuse on the power supply board and seeing 12v where I'd expect 5v according to the label near the board. I'd hate to plug a newly overhauled board set (or a brand new rottendog) in and fry it...I'm not an expert at all, not terribly comfortable with doing my own board repairs (but I am cheap enough to try) SO...
do I buy the $30 ROM set from K's Arcade and keep cleaning and wiggling connectors?
Send all three boards off to a pro? (Recommendations?)
Drop the 3 bills for a Rottendog?
Scrap it and sell off parts? Make a coffee table?
It shows just enough like to lure me in deeper...

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#2 6 years ago

Fix it up, for sure, especially if the playfield is decent. Plan on some board work as the chip sockets are known for being terrible. Backglass was recently repro'd. Post a WTB for a head, or repaint some other WMS head. Or consider passing it along as-is to another collector. Lots of love out there for this game.

#3 6 years ago

I would get a donor cabinet or have a new one built. I think it's totally salvageable. The PF is in outstanding condition. The boards look clean based on your pic. Reflowing solder joints is a good start. Then look for burnt traces and fix those. Re-seat chips and connectors, check and clean your power supply, your transformer (unplugged!). Just give it a good going over.

You have to remember, these things aren't being made anymore, so if you can preserve it, do it, or sell it to someone who can!

#4 6 years ago

That PF looks comparably fantastic for a cheap find... nice bright white and no major wear. Score!

The boards can be rebuilt but you will drive yourself crazy chasing them meanwhile as found: they are notorious for flaky and faulty components which have probably not aged well in a rotten cabinet. See "Vid's Guide to Bulletproofing" thread. At minimum you will be servicing the 40-pin interconnect, and EVERY SINGLE ROM SOCKET. I know this because I did the same thing: took a trashed FP (with a pf much worse than yours) and restored it, including the boardset. It was a trial-by-fire learning experience but well worth it.

The PF is great... the boards can be fixed.... get a new head or have a woodworking friend make a new toupee for yours... you've got a nice game there!

#5 6 years ago

Woodworking is no problem, even the paint work. If I can get it to go, the wood is the easy part. I run a small bodyshop so clearcoating the pf isn't a big deal if it's a keeper. I don't mind spending a couple Benjamins on making sure it works, maybe a couple more after that for displays or glass... hate to spend $$ and still not play. Electronics are mostly swahili to me, but I have replaced board components back when I was a kid. I'd rather send the boards off to someone who can thoroughly fix them and test them. I emailed Clive at Coin-op Cauldron about my GamePlan boards and he's 10 weeks out. . .

#6 6 years ago

Get your power supply right then start on the rest. Don't want to fix something then your power supply fry something.
I would make/source a new cabinet and then worry about the boards. At least if you do buy a rottendog it's not a system 7 so you should be good there.

#7 6 years ago

Here's what I'm seeing at the pus fuses. No Ac ripple across big cap. 40.2, 40.2 (blown fuse, again) 20.4, 98vac

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#8 6 years ago

These measurements were taken with the (-) lead grounded to the aluminum shielding

#9 6 years ago

Don't get a Rottendog for this one - MPU 327 was a very expensive brick for me and is notoriously unreliable from many other threads about it that I've seen.

Repair the original boards, they look decent in your pic, and there weren't batteries in the holder to cause damage. If they actually are too damaged to fix, patiently search for replacements.

#10 6 years ago

So I'm seeing something strange I think. The xformer voltage out seems fine at 28-30vac and15vac to the rectfiers but DCV from the rectifiers is 41vdc and 20vdc. Shouldn't the voltage out of the rectifiers be the same as Ac volts in?

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from oilspot:

So I'm seeing something strange I think. The xformer voltage out seems fine at 28-30vac and15vac to the rectfiers but DCV from the rectifiers is 41vdc and 20vdc. Shouldn't the voltage out of the rectifiers be the same as Ac volts in?

that is pretty normal when unloaded. I think what is going on is the 100uF cap smooths out the voltage at its peak, so it reads high.

Blown solenoid fuse usually happens when the boards fail to boot and the blanking does not stay low. Bunch of solenoids try to pull in at once and the fuse pops.

Your boards don't look wasted but need work. You could probably find someone to fix and rebuild them for you.

#12 6 years ago

barakandl thanks! Are you currently accepting new work?

#13 6 years ago
Quoted from oilspot:

barakandl thanks! Are you currently accepting new work?

no sorry, but try Jerry C. his info is on the pinrepair website. i think its in the tips/tools section.

#14 6 years ago

Boards off to J.C., order of new legs, bulbs, fuses, balls, rubbers etc. in, starting wood repair on backbox. This one's gonna live again!

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from oilspot:

Boards off to J.C., order of new legs, bulbs, fuses, balls, rubbers etc. in, starting wood repair on backbox. This one's gonna live again!

That playfield is way to good to part out.

#16 6 years ago

So one more question (for now) Clearcoat or just wax it? Clearing it isn't a big deal for me, couple hours labor once it's knocked apart. The paint all has a fine crazing from age like old lacquer. But a couple coats of carnauba wax would be quick.

#17 6 years ago

Killed me with the "smells like mushrooms" comment. Good move choosing to get this one back together instead of parting out. That playfield is great (FP's are often beat) and the boards do look clean, especially considering how that backbox looks. Repair shop should get them sorted out easily. You probably could have got it booting with some solder work on the header pins, but as others mentioned the sockets are likely toast. The work to replace them isn't exactly hard but if it's not your forte, an experienced hand taking care of that stuff for you is a step in the right direction.

Richard

#18 6 years ago

Got the backbox all rebuilt, painted the repaired area with acrylic enamel and it matched pretty well. Decided against clearcoating the pf to avoid this thing morphing into a full restoration.just cleaned it as best I could and put a few coats of "liquid glass" on. Installing new rubber now and then i'll check diodes on the coils . I should have it all ready to plug n play when the boards get back.

#19 6 years ago

"Liquid glass". You probably won't be clearcoatibg now. I'm pretty sure that has silicone in it.

#20 6 years ago

Checked that, claims "no wax or silicone" I keep it on the shelf specifically for that reason as I run a body/paint shop. It's super durable on a car, we'll see how it does on a pf

2 weeks later
#21 6 years ago

Update! I just received my boards back from JC today and plugged everything together. IT PLAYS! it's not perfect yet, but it plays. Aside from the usual lights out and wonky switches , there are a few minor issues.
Bottom row is out on all the displays.
L Flipper triggers "tilt" sounds, but not actual tilt.
Tilt bob doesn't work. It triggers sounds but doesn't shut the machine down.
Coin switch awards like 25 credits each!

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