(Topic ID: 302079)

Williams system 6 (Blackout) added fuse for lamp matrix blew. Why?

By bayoubilly70

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by wayout440
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#2 2 years ago

What is the value for the lamp matrix fuse and is it slo blow or fast? The lamp matrix is pulsed, so instantaneous levels of current can easily blow an incorrectly rated fuse.

Sound card rework is probably unrelated to the lamp fuse issue. Just because the capacitors were replaced doesn't necessarily mean the root cause of the fading sound was addressed. It could be something else causing that problem.

#4 2 years ago

That would be the correct value for the modification. Were you having any problems/symptoms of trouble with the lamp matrix before adding the AC side bridge rectifier fuse? (or don't you know because the game came with it already installed) The power supply also has a fuse for the lamp matrix DC side - it is F3 - this should be an 8A fast blow. Is it correct and in good condition?

As far as the sound problem, based on previously replacing all the capacitors, I highly doubt those are the problem. It could be heat related if the game sounds start off fine and then drop off as the game warms up. Especially if you can repeat this by shutting off the game, letting it cool and then get the same symptom when you turn it on. You might be able to pinpoint this with a can of freeze spray. A likely culprit could be the final amplifier IC1, or possibly IC13

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from bayoubilly70:

I don't believe it was having a problem... I bought the game years ago but it had to be in storage for a while. My original plays on the game did not indicate lamp matrix issues. I'll check the F3 fuse value.
Regarding the sound, I believe you are correct with heat related. If I turn the game off, let it rest, the sound is fine for a while then fades again (during the first game). If I turn the game off, then immediately turn it on, the problem is corrected but only briefly. Sometimes it will temporarily correct itself only to fade again.
I'll have to get some freeze spray. May I spray the ICs with the game on? It sounds like that's what you are promoting...
Thanks again for the input.

Yes. Electronics freeze spray is safe to use on energized circuits. Best if you have some audio running during testing. Pinpoint spray a specific component for a few seconds and listen for changes. You can use your sense of touch as well. Some components naturally dissipate heat, but if you leave the game running a bit and touch (carefully) you might find something running abnormally hot.

The same type of symptom as this can be mimicked by capacitor problems (shutting the game off allows capacitors to discharge) but you already replaced those so this is somewhat less likely. Good luck, hope you find something)

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