Hello, I picked up a Williams World Cup (system 3) that powers up but will not play. The person I got it from said something happened during play when he was having a party and it will no longer play. He showed me a blown IC9 on the driver board and when I got it home, I also noticed that Q45 is also blown. I also found fuse F2 blown on the Gulf Pinball replacement power supply he had installed. I've replaced IC9 on the driver board and fuse F2 on the power supply. But I do not have a TIP120 for Q45 and am waiting on my order to arrive early next week.

The machine powers up and all displays and lights seem to work. But nothing happens when I press the free play button or try to put a quarter in. Would the blown Q45 prevent the game from playing? I am wondering if there is anything else I can check out while I am waiting for the Q45 parts. Thanks for your help.

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Slight update.

I found I was still in diagnostic mode and was able to get out of it and start a game. The game played for a bit but most of the solenoids were not working and I found F2 is blown again.

Note that I did not have a 4A slow blow fuse for F2. I only had 4A fast acting type, so that is what I used while I am waiting for an order of the exact fuse. Also note that the original 4A fuse I had found blown was a slow blow fuse.

Thank you both for the quick responses. Here is the latest of what I have. I have removed Q45 from the driver board to eliminate it from the equation, I plan to replace it when the shipment of parts arrive.

In the meantime, I was previously able to run the solenoid diagnostic and all solenoids except 16 (which is the coil lockout related to Q45), 17, and 18 seemed to be working fine. After was doing more testing and trying to play it, the left bumper coil started smoking. I believe this is solenoid 17.

Now it seems that solenoids 1 ,2 ,3 ,4, and 5 in addition to 16 (which is the coil lockout related to Q45), 17, and 18 do not work in the diagnostic test. I have found a fuse kit that I didn't realize the person included with the machine (I think it has all of the proper values I will need for the machine).

I am in the process of checking all of the fuse values in each location for accuracy. Because there was a blown 4A slow blow fuse in F2 in the power supply board when I got the machine.

I have confirmed that the all fuses on the power supply are the proper type in each position. I also switched back to the original power supply, which I am told works fine, because the power supply from Gulf Pinball seems to have different fuse numbering than the original power supply and I cannot find a schematic for it.

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Thanks for the replies. I checked the switches on both bumpers and they looked ok. Nothing obvious was shorted. I pulled the driver board to measure resistance at the solenoid driver pins. Q2 and Q4 had different values than all of the other ones and I believe these are the 2 drivers for the pop bumpers. Q2 was reading a dead short, while Q4 had something in the 1.7k range but still very different from all of the other ones. When I was removing Q2, I touched Q1 and it basically fell apart. It has been damaged too.

So I have replaced Q1 and am expecting a shipment of parts today to replace Q2, Q4, and Q45.

Then I will replace F2 and see if it works without blowing the fuse. I have a new solenoid for the left pop bumper on order that I expect next week.

So the TIP120 parts arrived. I replaced Q2, Q4, and Q45. I put it back in the machine, replaced F2 and then powered it on. The cover blew off of Q45 as soon as I turned it on. I quickly turned it off and pulled the driver board again. I measured all of the solenoid transistors with a meter again and Q45 is open. Q2 and Q4 measure in the 1.6k range again. So I have replaced the 3 transistors again, I forgot to disconnect the bumper coil solenoids.....I'll have to retry that later.

Thanks for the link. I'll spend some time looking at that.

I am attaching pictures of the wiring by the lockout coil. I forgot to mention that I had disconnected the lockout coil after Q45 blew again with the new parts. But if you look at the first picture, the red wire was on the right hand lug and the brown wire was on the left. So the red wire was on the non banded side of the diode. Is this backwards?

Other measurements:

Lockout coil = 0 ohms

Lockout coil diode: 0.239V drop in both directions (do I need to take it off the coil to accurately measure? )

Left pop bumper = 0 ohms

Right pop bumper = 3.6ohms

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frunch: Thanks so much for your help!

I have 2 pop bumper coils on order, just in case the 2nd one is bad. The current pop bumper coils do not have diodes.

I am also planning to get a new lockout coil even though I could work around replacing it. I'd like to keep it complete. I'll post again in a few days when parts arrive to confirm everything looks ok.

Thanks!

Ok, so parts have arrived and now I am working on the machine again. I've replaced the left pop bumper solenoid and not added a diode. I've left the right pop bumper alone for now, it also does not have a diode. I have not hooked up the new coin lockout solenoid yet.

On the driver board I have replaced IC5, IC6, IC7 and IC9 as well as Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4. When I power it up, the left pop bumper stays on. The right pop bumper does not stay on though, so I suppose it is progress.

Also, when I disconnect the J13 connector and then power on the machine, the left pop bumper solenoid still gets stuck on. If I am reading the info in the link provided by frunch correctly, this seems to indicate the issue is on the driver board and not on the playfield. Any ideas on what to check next? I am kinda stumped and feel like I have replaced almost all of the driver board circuit.

s6drive4.pdf

Thanks for the input. I can confirm that the diode is not on either of the pop bumpers. I will go ahead and add them, but I am not convinced this is the root cause because the left side locks on and the right side doesn't. Wouldn't they both behave the same if this was the only issue.

I've spent some more time reading the info in the link provided. I am leaning towards also replacing another PIA (IC 10) as well.

Thanks for taking the time to put together your last post. I have spent some time this morning replacing many of the components on the driver board again.

I've re-replaced Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4, IC6, IC8, and IC9. This time I have also replaced IC10.

I've added the diodes to both pop bumper coils and will connect them with the red wire on the side with the band. I'm thinking I may as well hook up the new lockout coil too.

I just got back from baseball practice and will be reinstalling it here shortly.

I should also note that both pop bumper coils still are measuring around 3.6 ohms, so I think they are ok.

I had ordered the same coil part number (G-23 750) that was on the playfield and assumed it would be the same without the diode if it was like that previously. The place I ordered from did not offer the diode option, but I ordered some separately. I agree with your assessment that they are shown in the manual.

Wish me luck!

So I fired it up and all all solenoids are now passing the solenoid diagnostic. But the pop bumper solenoids do not trigger in gameplay. Still looking into the suggestions on the link posted.

Derp, I had forgotten to connect 2J13. When I had installed the board and hooked everything up I had intentionally left it disconnected because I was gun shy about powering it back up. When the solenoid did not stick I forgot that I had left it unplugged. After a much needed nap, I got up and saw your message and found the connector still unplugged.

I had to adjust the switch on the left pop bumper a bit to make it more sensitive (gap was too big). But now I am up and running pretty well.

There are a couple smaller items I am working on now, but I think I have those under control.

-Sometimes boots in audit/test mode
-Row 8 lights are out

I think we can consider this thread solved/closed.

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

To all of you who helped me.