Hi guys. On my Banzai Run I changed one of the coil sleeves on the lower flippers. Played almost a full game until it did a random reset after I drained the 2nd ball. When I tried to play another game fuse F7 blew and the 3 flashers that are connected together as 7c all locked on. I changed the fuse and tried to diagnose the flashers.

Here's what I tried already. 7a is the knocker so I thought something was shorting the flashers and I disconnected the knocker. Didn't work.

I unplugged 2 of the flasher boards/wires but the one hard wired flasher still locked on.

I followed the black and Violet wire that they share to see if that was shorted on anything. The wire looked good.

I looked in the manual to see what the transistor is for the 7c flashers. I think it's Q30 (please someone double check this if they can) I tested Q30 and one side was giving me .1 instead of .4 .6 so I changed the transistor. Still didn't work. And the old transistor tested fine off the board.

I'm kind of at a loss now and any help would be very appreciated. Is there a driving transistor that might be bad that's making Q30 test bad on the board maybe?

Thanks guys.

I'm at work all day today but I'll disconnect J-11 and try the power on while feeling the relay tomorrow morning and report back.

From memory last night the flashers would lock on when a game is started but not right away. They would come on maybe a few seconds after the game is started when you would hear a relay click. The relay clicking over when you start a game is normal from what I remember.

I also forgot to mention last night I did a solenoid test. For the first few coils that fired the flashers didn't lock on. Then maybe the 4th coil (I don't remember which it was) they came on for a few coils going off then off again to finish the test.

Like I said tomorrow morning I'll do exactly what you said and report back. Thank you for the help!

Alright I was able to do a little more testing.

Before I even turned it on I tested the transistor at Q-3 on the aux drive board and it was giving some bad readings compared to the other transistors above it. Like .1 and .01 compared to .4's and .5's. So I think your guess that it's bad is right.

Now I turned on the game while feeling the relay and I didn't feel any clicks.

Now when I tried doing the coil test I got to the 2nd coil and the flashers that were locking on came on but when I went to the next coil this blew fuse F4 (a different fuse then the orginal one that blew) I changed it tried again and it blew again.

The only other problem that I'm having and I'm not sure if it's related is the lifter keeps cailabrating on start up. The 2 up and down switches are getting pushed when it goes up and down but I'm not sure why it feels it needs to calibrate it.

That's where I'm at now. I'm guessing I have to order a new transistor for Q-3 since I don't have any of the big guys. Any thing else I should be checking before I place an order?

Alright I tested the four coils and the knocker coil (7a) is giving me some bad ohm readings of .5. The rest are all at 4. And 5.

I disconnected the knocker changed the fuse and the fuse doesn't blow anymore. The 3 flashers stay on but that's to be expected with the bad Q-3 transistor. For now I just took the bulbs out of those 3 flashers

The lifter was unrelated I think I messed up one of the switches to it so it was calibrating correctly

So I'm gonna order some TIP36C transistors is there a better one out kind of like the TIP102's are better replacements for TIP122's? Or just stick with the TIP36C?

And for the knocker though it's not needed I would like to connect it again. Could it be the diode is bad on it? Or just the whole coil is?

Thanks again Grumpy you've been a huge help. It's very appreciated honestly thank you!

Yea it was disconnected. I clipped the diode and tested the coil and I was getting 4. Ohms. Decided to try connecting it but that just blew the fuse again. Changed the fuse disconnected the knocker and all is well again.

Would that mean the coil needs to be replaced? Or is it because the transistor at Q-3 is shorted it's messing with the knocker and blowing the fuse? Cause it's weird the coil is testing fine now.

There were diodes on the coil and the power supply at D-7. I took the diode off the coil and replaced the one on the board. Now that the one on the coil is cut off it's reading 4 ohms as it should. But as you said when I connected the knocker with the bad Q-3 it was blowing the fuse. So I'm gonna order some replacement transistor's and restock my fuses.

I'll report back when they're in and installed. Thanks again!

Thanks Grumpy your advice was spot on. I changed Q-3 and the flashers weren't locked on anymore. Used my circuit breaker in place of the fuse and plugged the knocker back in turned it on and it didn't blow. Put the proper fuse in and I'm good to go. Again thank you. Your advice was very appreciated.