At a bare minimum you will need to replace the diode on the coil and Q-77 and Q-76. You will also need to check the switch gap, coil resistance, coil sleeve and skirt/spoon movement.

Do you have a manual? If not you can download one.

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?gid=1176

Look at page 32. It will show you the switches and there locations. Now that you know where the switch is, look under the P/F for a broken wire or an open diode.

For now you need to cut one of the wires from the coil and insulate it, replace the fuse. The game will function until your ready to repair it.

Yes, cut the single wire on the coil and place a piece of electrical tape on the end of the wire.

Maybe, if you replace the 3 parts I said then you will be ready to test it to see if it is ready to reconnect the wire.

In no particular order,
Marcos Spec.
Great Plains Electronics
Tayda
Ebay

Flash blubs are 7 volt #63 bulbs, since they are 7 volts they are 2 bulbs run in series. This means that if one bulb were to burn out neither bulb will work. You can install #89 12 volt bulbs in place of the #63 bulbs. This will make them last 4 times longer.

The manual will show this coil as a 23-800. There is a chart for telling what resistance each coil should be.

https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

When looking at the chart for this coil it shows 4.2 ohms. Cut one side of the diode off and then test with a DMM set the ohms.

There is a switch under the P/F that turns this coil on by way of snubber relay. Clean the switch contacts with a new dollar bill. Then adjust the switch contacts and test by rolling a ball across the wireform on the top of the P/F. Replacing the coil sleeve will help reduce friction and gain back some lost power.

In the manual, page #52 shows the parts # that you need. 2N4401, Tip122 and for the coil diode 1n4003.
Now for the TIP 122 I use a TIP102 as they are 60% stronger. And for the coil diode I use 1n4007 diodes for any diode that has a 1n400x number.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/2N4401

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/TIP102

Now for the display you need to move it to a working spot to see if it dead or if the cable is bad. The top displays are different then the bottom displays so you can only more them left and right, not up and down. If it's dead after moving it to a known working spot then remove it and reflow the solder pins on the backside. Then retest it.

Depending on whether its the top or bottom display.

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/displays/7%20Digit%20Numeric-2.jpg

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/displays/7%20Digit%20Alpha-2.jpg

Replace, but then test without connecting the coil. If the coil locks on again it will ruin all the new parts you just installed. The board can only handle replacing these parts some many times before its ruined.

You need to test with the coil disconnected.

How do you know its still the same if you didn't connect the coil? The best way to check this is with a voltmeter. Set it to ohms and with the power turned on to the game, check the resistance from ground to the metal tab of the transistor in question. A low reading means the transistor is conducting and further testing is required.

Last thing to check is the pop bumper activation switch, it needs to open @ 1/16 of an inch. If this is good then turn on the machine, remove the balls and lift the playfield. Then take the wire for the pop coil and lightly touch it to the coil. If it doesn't activate now then lower the P/F and replace the balls and start a game. Then remove the balls again and lift the P/F and touch the wire pop coil again, if it doesn't activate then you are ready to solder the wire back on and test again by playing a game.

Always a good idea, nothing better than snappy pops.

Playball!