(Topic ID: 68323)

Williams System 11 Bullet-proofing Thread

By Schwaggs

10 years ago


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  • 140 posts
  • 54 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Inkochnito
  • Topic is favorited by 252 Pinsiders

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There are 140 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
#101 5 years ago
Quoted from Goonie:

Thanks and agreed. Seems justified to me too. Just thought I'd double check on system 9 compatability since the website it silent on it.

System 9 pin out is the same as sys3-7 and 11 so it will work with the same caveats as system 11.... Mounting may be an issue with the 6" wiring harness and the transistor number on the silk screen print will be wrong.

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Quoted from Brijam:

Do you have a general sense of the timeline? Trying to figure if I should buy now or wait...

it might be a little while as I still have probably 100 blank PCBs of the current design. Electrically you are not missing out on anything. Just the silk screen print in regard to connectors and transistor number in relation to the fuse would be wrong in system 9 and 11.

#102 5 years ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Yes. The numbers for the special solenoids do not line up. I made a little table in Excel, printed it and laminated it and then stuck it in the cab to know which solenoids the fuses go to. Here is a link to the post with system 11's and solenoid saver:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/special-solenoid-saver-board-for-wms-3-7#post-3574129

So it's plug and play but I have to print up my own card to know which fuse goes to which solenoid, right?

#103 5 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

I will look into adding that on the next round of PCBs.

Do it!

#104 5 years ago

Thank you to barakandl - ordered my sss board last Friday, shipped Saturday and arrived in Ireland yesterday! Impressive.
Look forward to dropping it in to my F14
-Sf

1 week later
#105 5 years ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Here are my Solenoid Saver diagrams for Pinbot, F-14 and Space Station.
[quoted image][quoted image]

This shows 1 amp fuses for F-14, are 1.25 amp good for Pinbot or should I be using 1 amp? I don't want to overfuse...

#106 5 years ago
Quoted from Brijam:

This shows 1 amp fuses for F-14, are 1.25 amp good for Pinbot or should I be using 1 amp? I don't want to overfuse...

The reason for the 1 amp fuses in F-14 is that 2 coils are at 75 volts instead of 30 volts.

#107 5 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The reason for the 1 amp fuses in F-14 is that 2 coils are at 75 volts instead of 30 volts.

Got it. Thanks!

2 years later
#108 2 years ago

Is this 11B worth trying to save? So I removed U41, LM1455 , SR16 and battery holder so far. 2 traces previously repaired that run under battery by op. I have a Hakko 808 but it couldn't get the solder from the top side. I ended up cutting the prongs from removed parts to avoid damaging the solder pads.

Scr2 has a splitting outer case I guess from heat? Current status before removing parts was rapid blinking of diagnostic led.

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#109 2 years ago

Also there were no coils on the PF working when it was booting up. All fuses test good with meter.

#110 2 years ago

I've repaired two Sys11 boards in this state, but they were not reliable and always had odd problems. I'm sure a pro could do better. These days there are many options for new Sys11 boards. I would probably desolder any useful clean components and toss the rest.

Also check your harnesses and see if battery juice has traveled into the wiring. You'd be surprised how far that stuff can go.

#111 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

I've repaired two Sys11 boards in this state, but they were not reliable and always had odd problems. I'm sure a pro could do better. These days there are many options for new Sys11 boards. I would probably desolder any useful clean components and toss the rest.
Also check your harnesses and see if battery juice has traveled into the wiring. You'd be surprised how far that stuff can go.

Kinda the response I was expecting. I already prepared the owner of this possibility. The RD is $460 though ouch.

I'll check the connectors. I know the ribbon cables look iffy.

#112 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Kinda the response I was expecting. I already prepared the owner of this possibility. The RD is $460 though ouch.
I'll check the connectors. I know the ribbon cables look iffy.

Quite a mess to clean up there. I would order a Dumbass replacement board and transfer the parts over.

Edit: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs

1 month later
#113 2 years ago
Quoted from LateCenturyMods:

Quite a mess to clean up there. I would order a Dumbass replacement board and transfer the parts over.
Edit: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs

Cyclone is back!! Thanks for telling me about the DumbAss CPU. I also ordered a board for HS, though the original is working, I wanted to have a backup.

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#114 2 years ago

DumbAss to the rescue!!!

8 months later
#115 1 year ago

I'm thinking of rebuilding a System 11 power supply from my Whirlwind. It still works fine, but I'd rather replace all of the old components in it. It doesn't look like the link from Great Plains Electronics works anymore, so is there a recommended kit to purchase?

#116 1 year ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

I'm thinking of rebuilding a System 11 power supply from my Whirlwind. It still works fine, but I'd rather replace all of the old components in it. It doesn't look like the link from Great Plains Electronics works anymore, so is there a recommended kit to purchase?

Big Daddy has the cap kits. https://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/repairkits/williams11_kits.htm

The caps are about all you need to replace in your case, since it works. Replace the caps, take measurements before you attach boards and you should be good to go for a long time.

4 months later
#117 1 year ago

Diving into my first System 11 and have an interesting problem:

High Speed no boot, swapped out the power board with known good and serviced unit and it boots now.. sometimes.

The first couple of power up's the diagnostic digit display on the MPU will be garbled but after a half dozen tries it will boot up and then it is fine. Pulled the EPROMS and made sure the legs were clean and verified contents but does not seem to change behavior.

It is 100% NOT THE POWER SUPPLY BOARD. This is a known good Williams test unit that is fully recapped and extensively tested in a Laser War and Space Shuttle. The original power supply was dead, no 5V output. I'm familiar with working with Data East boards which are similar but the garbled diagnostic is throwing me off as I'm not sure what it is trying to tell me. Pinwiki does not seem to have any info either.

Thanks guys! Aside from a dead switch column and a display segment out the game seems pretty solid.

Gary

#118 1 year ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Diving into my first System 11 and have an interesting problem:
High Speed no boot, swapped out the power board with known good and serviced unit and it boots now.. sometimes.
The first couple of power up's the diagnostic digit display on the MPU will be garbled but after a half dozen tries it will boot up and then it is fine. Pulled the EPROMS and made sure the legs were clean and verified contents but does not seem to change behavior.
It is 100% NOT THE POWER SUPPLY BOARD. This is a known good Williams test unit that is fully recapped and extensively tested in a Laser War and Space Shuttle. The original power supply was dead, no 5V output. I'm familiar with working with Data East boards which are similar but the garbled diagnostic is throwing me off as I'm not sure what it is trying to tell me. Pinwiki does not seem to have any info either.
Thanks guys! Aside from a dead switch column and a display segment out the game seems pretty solid.
Gary

Can you post a pic of the board?

#119 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Can you post a pic of the board?

I can when I get home, looks like a normal System 11 board. I'll try and catch it on boot up.

#120 1 year ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

High Speed no boot, swapped out the power board with known good and serviced unit and it boots now.. sometimes.

Try replacing C30. This is a 22uF axial electrolytic capacitor.

Quoted from gdonovan:

Pinwiki does not seem to have any info either.

There is a similar description in the System 9 section (applies to reset) @ https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#System_9_Games but this also applies to System 11. It's the same capacitor (C30).

#121 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Try replacing C30. This is a 22uF axial electrolytic capacitor.

This is the one adjacent the battery pack correct? When I pull the board to check the switch column I'll replace the C30 cap.

I suspect its the drive transistor for 1J8-5 column. everything on that one is dead.

#122 1 year ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

This is the one adjacent the battery pack correct? When I pull the board to check the switch column I'll replace the C30 cap.
I suspect its the drive transistor for 1J8-5 column. everything on that one is dead.

When you have the board out, check for cracked header pins. Reflow if needed.

#123 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

When you have the board out, check for cracked header pins. Reflow if needed.

Thanks, I was going to examine them as well; on Ballys a notorious issue with the smaller .100 headers.

#124 1 year ago

It booted right up after work of course.

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#125 1 year ago

Closest I have is a 22uf 25V, going to roll with it and see what happens.

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#126 1 year ago

It seems pretty happy right now and swapping out Q43 brought back the missing column.

#127 1 year ago

I would be concerned about the orange/brown socket on the PIA by the battery. That looks like it is one of the troublesome types. May want to consider replacing that one.

#128 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I would be concerned about the orange/brown socket on the PIA by the battery. That looks like it is one of the troublesome types. May want to consider replacing that one.

If I have time I'll back around to it. Want to get up and running so I can loan out to friend for a few weeks who helped haul all the pins home.

Working on flashers now, only the blue playfield and backglass ones are working, dinner time!

#129 1 year ago

Frankly one of the more horrific repairs I have run across. I'm surprised only one segment is out.

Most of the playfield red flasher sockets seem to be junk for some reason. Onward!

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#130 1 year ago

Lol. Fixed.

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#131 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Try replacing C30. This is a 22uF axial electrolytic capacitor.

Out of curiosity, what function does this particular capacitor serve?

#132 1 year ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Out of curiosity, what function does this particular capacitor serve?

It sets the timing for a reset pulse to the CPUs and pia chips to delay of the boot-up sequence until the power supply's 5 volts is stable.

#133 1 year ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Out of curiosity, what function does this particular capacitor serve?

Quoted from GRUMPY:

It sets the timing for a reset pulse to the CPUs and pia chips to delay of the boot-up sequence until the power supply's 5 volts is stable.

@gdonovan: your experience is with Data East and these boards use a reset generator (voltage supervisor) at IC1. Williams uses a circuit to do this rather than a reset generator (although a modification exists to use these on Williams boards).

#134 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

gdonovan: your experience is with Data East and these boards use a reset generator (voltage supervisor) at IC1. Williams uses a circuit to do this rather than a reset generator (although a modification exists to use these on Williams boards).

Thanks for the explanation!

My next mystery is the game seems to be missing some sounds, speech and music so have been looking at how speech and music is generated by System 11 High Speed. As I understand the background music is generated by the daughter board.

It doesn't seem to be missing much. I get the police & dispatch voices, horn honk, some tunes but comparing to some videos seems to be missing some things. Having never played with one before, still groping in the dark on some aspects. System 11 is just different enough from Data East to get me in trouble! lol

#135 1 year ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

My next mystery is the game seems to be missing some sounds, speech and music so have been looking at how speech and music is generated by System 11 High Speed. As I understand the background music is generated by the daughter board.
It doesn't seem to be missing much. I get the police & dispatch voices, horn honk, some tunes but comparing to some videos seems to be missing some things.

Chris Hibler's YouTube channel has some videos showing what is normal.


4 months later
#136 1 year ago

I picked up my first System 11, Pinbot. Can someone confirm the fuse ratings on the power supply board? I'm working thought caps, connectors and everything else to bullet proof. The original manual was included and I'm confused about F4 and F2. On the board diagram, it says F2 is a 4A slow-blow and F4 is a 2.5A slow-blow. The power wiring diagram shows F4 w/ a 10A indication and F2 w/ 2.5A slow-blow indication. The schematic shows just an A for F2 and 2.5A SB for F4.

#137 1 year ago
Quoted from Skidave:

I picked up my first System 11, Pinbot. Can someone confirm the fuse ratings on the power supply board? I'm working thought caps, connectors and everything else to bullet proof. The original manual was included and I'm confused about F4 and F2. On the board diagram, it says F2 is a 4A slow-blow and F4 is a 2.5A slow-blow. The power wiring diagram shows F4 w/ a 10A indication and F2 w/ 2.5A slow-blow indication. The schematic shows just an A for F2 and 2.5A SB for F4.

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Williams_Pinbot_Tech_Chart.pdf

Chris

1 month later
#139 1 year ago

Has anyone done the "reduce display voltage to 91 volts" mod on a game with a Rotten Dog power supply installed? I'd like to do it to my Pin*Bot, but can't find any information on how the process would differ with an aftermarket power supply.

#140 1 year ago
Quoted from Tux:

Has anyone done the "reduce display voltage to 91 volts" mod on a game with a Rotten Dog power supply installed? I'd like to do it to my Pin*Bot, but can't find any information on how the process would differ with an aftermarket power supply.

If you have a WPS079 you can change the resistors R6 and R7 to 15K5.
That will lower the voltage to -91 and +91V.
Here is a link to a calculator page.
http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/LM317-resistor-and-voltage-calculator.php

WPS079.pdfWPS079.pdf
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