I recently picked up a Sorcerer with all 3 flippers not working and displays 3 and 4 out. I can live with the displays for a while but you kinda need the flippers to have fun. I didn't see much on Pinwiki for Williams system 9 to 11 pinwiki besides the heading. http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Flipper_problems

I had checked all the fuses to make sure they were all correct and working but started with checking the F2 fuse again on the Flipper Power Supply board which was ok. I checked the coils and they all had the proper resistance and all were receiving 35.5V. While looking at the schematics I thoughtI saw it was a 50V line so I went to check the flipper power output on the FPS board. I discovered just 2V at pins 1,2 5 and 6 where it should be 50V. I thought ah-ha it must be a bad bridge rectifier. I removed the board to check solder joints and also checked the rectifier which checked out ok. I then discovered while checking the Flipper Power input that that the 2 white/orange wires were only feeding 17 VAC to the board and the white/green only 19VAC. On the schematic it states there should be 48VAC coming from all 4 wires to the FlipperPS board.

I removed the guard over the wires coming from the transformers to see if they were intact and they look fine. I see that all 4 wires are solidly attached to the 2 back lugs on the smaller transformer on the left side. There is an 8A line fuse next to the larger transformer on the right side but no fuse for the smaller on the left. The power wiring diagram on page 32 of the manual shows the larger transformer 7T1 hooked up like the schematic. The smaller 7T2 looks like it was wired for low line use from Notes 4 on the side of the page even though the connections read for the terminals on the 7T1. Note #4 has the black/white moved from 7T1-4 to &T1-3 and the 2 white/red wires moved from 7T1-8 to 7T1-7. Well the 7T2 transformer is wired like the notes for the larger transformer. I don't know if this is correct but it looks like it hasn't been altered at all from factory. Here are some pics of the transformers. Any suggestions?20190523_132634 (resized).jpg20190523_152353 (resized).jpg20190523_154049 (resized).jpgpage 32 Sorcerer (resized).png

I'm only measuring the 4 white/orange and white/green wires that bring the voltage from the transformer to the flipper supply board. The black lead is placed under the grounding strap in the head and then touching the red lead to each one of the 4 wires at the connector. Pins 5,6 8 and 9 at that connector are supposed to be 48vac each.

Thanks gutz, now I have to change the thread title because I had voltage the whole time. When measuring the w/o and w/g together I have 50vac and when I switched back to measure the voltage on the output side I have 68V. I was unaware of how to measure the AC voltage and when measuring the output last time I didn't switch the multimeter back to direct current so I only measured 2V.

Before getting stuck at the flipper supply board I removed one leg of each diode on the flipper coils and all the diodes measured ok. I also checked continuity from the flipper switches up to the 1st 2 pins on IJ19. I forgot to mention when I had the cpu out to solder in a coin cell battery I checked the flipper relay area and the D1 diode underneath the K1 flipper relay measured open with a tone. When I soldered in a new N40001 diode and checked my work it toned out as well and showed no resistance. When I removed the second diode I checked it out of the board and it measured fine? I soldered it back in and the same result. I don't think I hear the flipper relay clicking when the game turns on so the flippers just aren't being grounded by the relay? Too late and gotta get some sleep but thanks for the help gutz and zacaj.

Thanks for chiming in Andrew, especially after the meteor dip switch error. All solenoids fire in test up to 16, the 17 to 21 solenoids are the special solenoids and don't fire in test. I removed IJ18 and grounded each special solenoid switch at the pins and they all fire but none of them activate the flipper relay. I turned the game off and on to hear the click and I do but just to make sure I watched the tabs in the relay and they pull down when the game is turned on.
Zacaj there are 6 transistors next to the K1 flipper relay and I grounded them all firing the 5 special solenoids but grounding the 6th, (Q85,) does not fire the relay. Q85 is designated for the special solenoid #6 which is not used. The only components I see in line with the relay are the D1 diode underneath it and the PNP Q86 transistor and 2 ceramic resistors R34 and R35.

At this point it just occurred to me I tested for continuity from the flipper switches to the 1st 2 pins of IJ19 but didn't test the flipper switches themselves in switch test. Went into switch test 03 and found that both flipper button switches don't register and got excited but then looked at the switch matrix and don't see them in the matrix. The flipper section is separate from the matrix. I tested to see if the flipper switches were getting power and the left and right flipper buttons are reading 35V. I can jump the tabs on the right flipper switch to have the right flipper solenoid fire. When I try the left I only see a spark of contact at the flipper switch and hear a tiny buzz from the left flipper coil and it pulls in the tiniest bit? So the problem lies with the left flippers and shouldn't my right flipper fire with the button depressed if I can jump it? The contacts look old and crusty. I know you shouldn't sand switch contacts but how about flipper button switches?

Sooo the special solenoids are supposed to all run in test mode after the 1st 16 solenoids? Could it be the 7402N 14 pin IC chip at U6 next to the IJ19 connector that holds the flippers at pin 1 and 2 and the special solenoids. I compared it to U7 with the dmm black lead on pin 1 and probed all other legs and the 2 chips matched.

Still not sure what to ground to fire the flipper relay

Ok yes when I ground the end of R34 that connects to the diode side of D1 the flipper relay pulls down. I also hear a click by the coin door. I removed the board and checked the solder joints on the relay and the 1J19 and they're good. The Q86 has EBC printed on it and with the positive lead on the base and negative lead on the emitter I get a measurement of .620 ohms like all the others in the special solenoid section.

Thanks Cheddar, I tested the 2N4401 (Q86) in diode test and it measured .620 0hms like the others for the special solenoid section. Any idea why my left flippers don't fire when shorting the left flipper switch closed?

Hey Andrew I missed your post. I will have to have a friend come over to check U59 and U6 I don't have a logic probe.

No they don't and shorting the R34 and banded side of D1 doesn't fire the relay it resets the game. When I start a game the flipper relay pulls down. If I short that diode/resistor under the relay it releases and the game resets.

I tried shorting the other side of the diode and nothing happens. If I hit the banded side it resets the game.

Oh thank you Andrew, I'll stop resetting the game. Yes the relay is already turned on when I hit the start button and grounding the non banded side does nothing and grounding the banded side resets the game, turning off the relay. I'll wait to compare the blanking signals of U58 and U6. Even if the chip is bad and not letting the sp solenoid's signals through why would my left flipper coils not fire when shorting the left flipper switch but my right one does?

Sorry I haven't followed up was out a couple of days with back issues. While waiting for a logic probe I decided to look at the 2 left coils that weren't firing when I shorted the left flipper switch. Turns out they were both shorted and their sleeves were bound in the coils. Even though I checked resistance when I started I now get tone when testing on the middle lug and the F2 fuse on the flipper board is fine. When firing the right side the right flipper activates weakly so I just ordered 3 new coils. They should arrive tomorrow so I'll keep you posted pinhead306. Oh I also lost my sound while testing these coils and read in another thread that I should suspect U4 that has sounds and solenoids running through it.

The new coils arrived and when soldered in all 3 flippers work! I chased my tail for no reason. The eos switch on the right flipper needed to be adjusted to get full strength back so that coil was fine and didn't need to be replaced. What's strange is I got sound back when I fired the new coils? I played a couple of games and turned her off. When I turned the game back on there was an error code 7 on the cpu. I turned it off cursing the sorcerer! Next time I turned it on it played fine for 2 or 3 games and then the sound cut out. So something on the cpu is about to die. Is there a component that's usually associated with Error code 7? Thanks so much for all the help Cheddar, Zacaj and Andrew.

Ok I am getting tired of this game now. I removed the U5 6821pia chip yesterday and soldered in a socket and installed a new 6821 chip. The #7 error code went away and the game played fine for 5 or 6 games. If left on in attract mode after 15 mins the game's displays and insert lights stop working. I powered up again and can play any # games in a row but when I leave the game alone it shuts down. I turned it on today and #7 is back on the cpu.

The chart on pinwiki for code 7 reads
System failure. Occasionally, the following components can contribute to this problem: U21 (4MhZ crystal), components in the IRQ circuit, broken leads or failed C9 (22uF) in the reset section, or loosely seated ICs on the CPU board. Note that boot code "7" is the hardware default and characteristic of the CPU "reset" signal not complying with the proper low-to-high spec at pin 40.

I checked C9 which had resistance and all the components to the right of the batteries on the bottom of the board. Made sure the chips in sockets were tight. There are 4 thin cream colored resistors with a single black band in the middle (W2,5,6,and 7), that all tone out either way I place the leads. I also had an open tone for R5,R12 and R13. I haven't removed the board to test the U21 4Mhz crystal yet. All other components have some kind of resistance and don't read open.

Thanks Cheddar that must be it. I just turned her on and now had an error code#6. I tried twisting all of the sockets. There are 3 game rom sockets and 3 pia sockets. None of them changed the error code but when I turned the game off and on she went back to "0" and plays fine. I should have twisted them one at a time and tried the game in between each one. Do you think it's more likely the pia socket than the game chips? I'm out of sockets so if I find the nasty culprit I'll just solder in the chip right to the board.

You're right Cheddar I should just order some more sockets. I think I found the culprit. It looks like U49 that houses the sound rom which is probably why I was losing my sound when working on reviving the flippers. Waiting for the sockets will also give me time to wait for it to fail again and again to confirm its that socket.

Hopefully this is a wrap up post. Picked up some sockets from a friend and started with U49 the sound rom chip. Once I replaced that socket the game came back to life. The pin has been on all day and hasn't reset and plays great. Thanks guys, You are the Masters!

Yeah that was wishful thinking. Next day the game locked up while in attract mode after an hour. Same error 7 code. I tried twisting U17 a 40 pin socket that holds a 6808 chip, turned the game on and everything was working again.. I removed and replaced the socket at U17 and game worked again all day yesterday. Played a game this morning and left it on to see if it locks up. Played a game at lunch and the sound cut out on ball 2. I opened the head and pushed on U17's chip to make sure I pushed it in all the way. Powered up and everything worked for 2 games and then sound cut out again. Turned the game off removed the backglass and turned her on and there's my friend error code 7 again. I don't know if this because I still haven't changed the last 2 sockets at U19 and U20 the game rom's sockets or the 6808 chip in U17 needs to be replaced. U17 is right next to U20 but twisting the 2 remaining sockets that haven't been replaced don't effect the error code. Guess I should get my friend with his logic probe over instead of shot gunning sockets.

I found an extra 6808 chip I had on hand so I swapped out U17 and the game is out of system failure and plays but no sound.